Skip to main content

I don't have the talent or patience to do proper pipe hangers.  I carefully drill .064 brass to fit the wires, then pre-form.  Soldering is done by the revered sweat-solder method - a blob on the hangar, a corresponding blob on the attach point, and heat from above or the back side.

 

You can see it by enlarging the second photo of my AC-8 on this thread:

 

https://ogrforum.com/t...e-late-40s-early-50s

Last edited by bob2

I need several double pipe flanges for various pipes. I decided to try and make my own from miniature plastistrut single flanges. I drilles holes for bolts in the flange and then chucked it up in the dremel. I used an exacro to cut the double flange groove. Then glued in flatten wire for the nuts,

the pictures are poor, but you get the idea. It can be done. They'll look fine when attached and painted.

 

 

 

flange 2

flange 4

flange 3

flange 1

Attachments

Images (4)
  • flange 2
  • flange 4
  • flange 3
  • flange 1
Last edited by Ron H

Ron,

First, you've done a heck of a job with this locomotive and I'm amazed at how smooth it is with the ERR.  Please keep us updated as you work to alter the articulated sync of the sound. Will use your info for a future project.

 

Second, I'm new to resistance soldering.  I've only done bare brass.  On a painted model, such as this, do you remove the paint prior to soldering?  I realize that the paint will burn during the soldering, but that isn't an issue for me as I plan to repaint anyhow.  My concern is the parts 'sticking' even with flux.  Thoughts?

 

Last, I can't tell you how much I've learned by watching how you did some of this stuff. I've got my own project going and a lot of the great info you provided helped me build parts of it.  Thanks!   

86TA,

Thanks for the kind words. I decided not to get a resistance rig. Instead I ordered a Weller GT7A. It is the best gun available. I just found out they still make it. I had one when I was a sponsored RC car racer and someone stole it. Check it out. You pull the trigger and it goes to 750 degrees in 3 seconds or less. I always remove any paint before soldering and I use a liquid flux.

 

My soldering is not really very good, but I'm getting better.

 

thanks again,

Ron

Well, I wasn't happy with the fireman side piping and tore it out and redid with soldered brackets for longevity. Looking closely at drawings and photos I did not really have the pipes all correctly placed. I added more pipes to the correct appliances. There are a bunch of them and they kind of noodle around and come out further back on the boiler or engines. Still only 35 or 40% done.

 

fm pipes 1

fm pipes 2

Attachments

Images (2)
  • fm pipes 1
  • fm pipes 2
Originally Posted by Ron H:

Pingman I don't know how to edit the title.

 

Ron

Ron,

 

At the top of each page of your thread, located on the right hand side, above the list of "Recent Posts" are blue boxes that include "Edit Topic."  Click on that button and you can edit the thread's title or text in your initial post.

Originally Posted by Ron H:

The new sounds from a square cam and cherry switch which give the required 8 chuffs for two engines. It's good enough for now. Back to detailing. I've got to order a boat load of parts from PSC. Back soon.

Don't forget to order the exhaust splitter for the twin stacks.

 

Also, your exhaust sound package sounds MUCH better. Next, you need to get that "UP whistle" sound out of there.

 

She is definitely looking good. 

Hot Water, I appreciate the critique. Don't worry, every part you would expect will be on her. It doesn't yet even have the whistle. I'm also going to change reverse links to scale ones and get the linkage right. It's in neutral presently.

 

As for the whistle, the only good one is soundtrax's cab forward chip, which I can't combine with the TMCC. I doubt Lionel is going to give their legacy cab forward card to ERR. At least I've got the horn. I'm going to go to RC on my two rail locos and might convert this one as well so I can use soundtrax.

 

There is always some compromise.

 

Ron H.

Originally Posted by Ron H: 

As for the whistle, the only good one is soundtrax's cab forward chip, which I can't combine with the TMCC. I doubt Lionel is going to give their legacy cab forward card to ERR. At least I've got the horn. I'm going to go to RC on my two rail locos and might convert this one as well so I can use soundtrax.

 

There is always some compromise.

 

Ron H.

Right, Lionel is certainly not going to sell you the "sound chip" from their Legacy cab forward. However, they WILL sell you the RS-5 sound chip from the previous issue SP cab forward, which has a different whistle sound (although not correct either, but at least it isn't that unmistakable UP whistle), not to mention that great cab forward air compressor exhaust sounds.

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×