Now I'm lost..unless im going at speed...my e units trip over 2. 1121E switches...these worked fine with my old siding..posted earlier...now the new siding has a uncoupler and a unloading/uncoupler on it...the fibre pins i didn't change...so i have to go through and find out WHY...ill put up pics and a small clip..i have old manual's..and other stuff..but maybe i DID something silly..send a idea thanks all
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Take a Scotch-Brite pad to all the rails and clean off any dirt and rust, especially the center and swivel rails. The dirt is an insulator and will cause an interruption of power to the locomotive, enough to trip the 'E' unit. Finish cleaning off the rails with Naphtha. Do this to the whole layout.
Larry
My guess is you have a weaker pin connection now than before disassembly or a weak switch rail to switch innards connenection. Also make sure you have solid pins on the center rails leading to & feeding switches. The hollow pins have a seem, easily crushed if rusted, they rust inside first; thinning and lowering pin amp capabilities. (on outer rails hollows arent as bad as long as there are two pins carrying the power across to the next track... use solid pins on any single feed rails. Like those of isolated trigger sections or anti derail turnouts. Replace hollow pins with solid ones when you can. Ive had them glow red hot after a bit.(thank God I run in the dark often )
or a short. A light enough one may not trip breakers, and only draw till a greater load /better path is present.
Do you have fiber/plastic pins on the rails with yellow tape?
Chuck Sartor posted:Do you have fiber/plastic pins on the rails with yellow tape?
Yes...and i hooked back up the bypass wire's..NOW ITS NOT DOING IT...I THINK ITS HAUNTED...THE ONE ENGINE 2037 ITS REAR PICKUP GOT STUCK...NOW IT DOESN'T DO IT
Adriatic posted:My guess is you have a weaker pin connection now than before disassembly or a weak switch rail to switch innards connenection. Also make sure you have solid pins on the center rails leading to & feeding switches. The hollow pins have a seem, easily crushed if rusted, they rust inside first; thinning and lowering pin amp capabilities. (on outer rails hollows arent as bad as long as there are two pins carrying the power across to the next track... use solid pins on any single feed rails. Like those of isolated trigger sections or anti derail turnouts. Replace hollow pins with solid ones when you can. Ive had them glow red hot after a bit.(thank God I run in the dark often )
or a short. A light enough one may not trip breakers, and only draw till a greater load /better path is present.
Thank you...i rehooked the extra wires back up..and fixed a rear stuck picup...now its OK...MAYBE its HAUNTED😜thanks for INFO😀👍
TrainLarry posted:Take a Scotch-Brite pad to all the rails and clean off any dirt and rust, especially the center and swivel rails. The dirt is an insulator and will cause an interruption of power to the locomotive, enough to trip the 'E' unit. Finish cleaning off the rails with Naphtha. Do this to the whole layout.
Larry
Thank YOU...l do often..the 3 switches are 1952-58 1121's some of the track is the SAME
Adriatic posted:My guess is you have a weaker pin connection now than before disassembly or a weak switch rail to switch innards connenection. Also make sure you have solid pins on the center rails leading to & feeding switches. The hollow pins have a seem, easily crushed if rusted, they rust inside first; thinning and lowering pin amp capabilities. (on outer rails hollows arent as bad as long as there are two pins carrying the power across to the next track... use solid pins on any single feed rails. Like those of isolated trigger sections or anti derail turnouts. Replace hollow pins with solid ones when you can. Ive had them glow red hot after a bit.(thank God I run in the dark often )
or a short. A light enough one may not trip breakers, and only draw till a greater load /better path is present.
Thank you...i rehooked the extra wires back up..and fixed a rear stuck picup...now its OK...MAYBE its HAUNTED😜thanks for INFO😀👍
Just like the Ritz; "Our pleasure Sir"
On old 0-27 the most likely source of "vanishing"/intermediate or light shorts after handling are the center rail's tie insulation. Loco weight going over it can make a short like that come and go too.
The oldest 0-27 insulation stuff is getting brittle or even wearing through now. Fixes are match books & boxes, Capt.Cruntch boxes, electrical tape(can be mushy and slide but works. Whats nice with black ties is one wrap of electrical tape over Shredded Wheat box; not too mushy and hides well. You get the point eh?
You may want to oil, agitate, wipe at rust getting rid of dusty rust. I find oiling helps the web and foot slow, stop, or not rust. And you really only need to clean it off the railhead's top and inside edge of rails where the flanges hit to stop wheel slip caused from any oil fouling. Whal Hair Clipper oil is nice for this among others. Whal cleans well and cleans up well. Penetrants tend to creap up against gravity somewhat and can take a bit to get a rail real clean, wiping the whole web/foot of excess helps..
Adriatic posted:Just like the Ritz; "Our pleasure Sir"
On old 0-27 the most likely source of "vanishing"/intermediate or light shorts after handling are the center rail's tie insulation. Loco weight going over it can make a short like that come and go too.
The oldest 0-27 insulation stuff is getting brittle or even wearing through now. Fixes are match books & boxes, Capt.Cruntch boxes, electrical tape(can be mushy and slide but works. Whats nice with black ties is one wrap of electrical tape over Shredded Wheat box; not too mushy and hides well. You get the point eh?
You may want to oil, agitate, wipe at rust getting rid of dusty rust. I find oiling helps the web and foot slow, stop, or not rust. And you really only need to clean it off the railhead's top and inside edge of rails where the flanges hit to stop wheel slip caused from any oil fouling. Whal Hair Clipper oil is nice for this among others. Whal cleans well and cleans up well. Penetrants tend to creap up against gravity somewhat and can take a bit to get a rail real clean, wiping the whole web/foot of excess helps..
Yes thank you...i pretend this old platform is like my working antique guns -swords-bayonets...clean OIL grease polish repeat..lol..its a labor of LOVE..and as you know...ANY MACHINE if made well and cared for will LAST..train plane or automobile compressor gun ECT😀👍🚂