Tech buffs- How do I get 4 chuffs from this one?

Bob, 4 chuffs may not be possible with this tender. It appears that you have some kind of mechanical style.

Regards

romiller

Romiller, I'm pretty certain he's joking!  That's a wheel filled with gravel that sort of makes a chuffing sound.

 

I haven't cracked her open yet, and while this was alittle tonge in cheek, I would like to explore my options- if any...who knows, someone might have done it already, hense my asking.

 

I think you're a little too "low tech" for such modifications.  I think that needs either a PS/2 upgrade, or at least RailSounds.

 

Ah, there it is!

...too bad your 0-4-0 can't fit a speaker and ERR sound behind that Cruise unit...maybe split the boards on either side of the flywheel...yeah, wrong thread but I'm "here" now so....

I knew you were waiting for that, and I so hate to disappoint.

 

What about installing baffles inside the drum so that they would drop with an added interval?

That's funny.  Just today I put an E-Unit in my brother's tender just like that.  It didn't have that wheel installed though.  Just a blank hole.  His engine from the Cannonball Starter set, now has Forward - Neutral - Reverse.  Plus runs off a regular transformer.

I've never actually tried prying of those apart to see what's inside, might be interesting.

4 chuffs per is easy. You just need another tender exactly like it.

Well, that's just gotta be the craziest thing I've seen today.  Does it spark when it spins? 

 

If the loco freewheels, maybe you can turn the tender chuffer into a flywheel for cheap cruise control.

 

r0d

I got the perfect solution, split the round housing apart and leave only 4 pieces of the gravel or whatever is in it and presto four chuffs or maybe not. Send it to Alex, he is the chuff king.

About 45 years ago, Triang (Now Hornby) fitted 'Steam sound' tenders to quite a few locomotives in 'OO' scale. These worked by having a metal strip on one of the axles that rubbed against a strip of sandpaper fitted to a spring steel strip that was attached to a resonating chamber in the tender. At the time they sounded pretty good. 

 

Looking at it it appears it's glued together...for now.

All I got was the tender- the engine was a usual powered type, this just added sound...no sparks. The wheel has a tire on it for traction on the center rail and while it works quaintly enough at low speed, it seems to quit when the centrifical force renders the shot inside useless at mid-high speed.

Ah-ha...great minds think alike....I was thinking just that by removing the traction tire, cutting it in half and rotating the chambers roughly 30 degrees or so, then adding a center wall between the two halves....besides, I'm darn curious as to what they have in there for shot. 

Nicole, that's neat....interesting the way they did early on "sound systems"! Thanks for that one.

I noticed last night that the traction tire on the drum is pretty stiff...big shock, I know...and removal will no doubt break it. Can these be had still or is there another venue to use for them?

Ideas?  

I check Brasseurs website, I think this is the part number.  A search on the Bay in the Lionel section for 8302 shows some tenders.

 

Other parts dealers might have these too.

 

8302-T06 - Rubber Tire - Mech. Steam Sound

8302-T15 - Plastic wheel with tire - Mech. Steam Sound

The wheel might be a good investment, then you can tear that one apart and see how it works.

 

Here the wheel I'm trying to re-invent,

 

Thanks, I'll have to go hunting for the traction tire...or both!

I confess that I've seen a few of these, but never got curious enough to take the wheel out.

John, the chassis has two side by side triangulated small loops to hold the wheel in place, slightly spread them apart{or one} and the wheel will come out.

 

Ok, so for the sake of posterity and cause I couldn't help my own curiousity- here's what's inside-

 

I took my time with the deeper razor saw and 1st cut all the way around on my center mark and then slowly sawed farther in till I hit center....BBs!..not exactly what I expected, but I honestly didn't know what to expect.

So, now to make a new disc to sandwich between the two new halves and divide the BBs into equal groups.

Whats' a good offset between origonal chambers, for a quad chuff...30 degrees?

John, a pic will do better-

 

New day, new way to play- I sanded both chamber halves so they're flat, and then divided the BBs into to even groups of 23 each- one set per chamber....remember, I've halved the chamber area so installing the same amount of BBs into each new chamber would pack them twice as much as they were origonally...you can add a few more but I wouldn't go overboard.

I just glued a .040 disc{rough cut} over the one chamber half and when dry I'll glue the other chamber over that so as not to increase the width too much. Glue used is the good old testors orange squeeze tube stuff...it should bond well enough{we'll see}.

 

how bout doing the same to the other chamber and off set them xx degrees, don't think 90 would work.

I wound up indexing the end of one chamber side to the other...roughly 25 degrees{I think}. The silver lines denote chamber sections, so as one ends the other side starts.

Lucky for me the traction tire for the drum went back on without any hassles- cool.

Unfortunately I dropped the drum and broke off a pin, but I fixed that with a piece of 1/8" tubing....installed the drum back in the chassis- even with an .040 width extention it doesn't affect any rolling movement at all. Anyone trying this should know that .040 wouyld be the max you'd want to go since the drum pin shoulders won't allow anything more without doing some added inner sanding of the chassis pivot points!. Not a big deal, but you should know up front about this- and there's more than enough room on the lower rounded chassis sides that hide the drum- it's the drum pin pieces that will be tight if more than .040 is added.

 

Ok, now to give her the roll/sound test- at a crawl it works fine, but as speed is increased they start to blend quickly...you guys might want to further widen the chamber indexing more than I did...I like it, but this is all just playing for me as I simply got this particular tender for the sake of the tender body - not the sound{that was an added bonus}.

I still think the ERR board would have been easier.

 

Let's hear a test of the sound.

Ah, there lies the rub...never downloaded music nor uploaded a video...I suppose I need to learn those...and I don't have a board so I just worked with what I've got, it's easier for me that way.