The kadee fever struck again! I need help!

Chris,

 

Have you gone through the step by step instructions for mounting Kadee couplers, which is a "sticky", above? There is already a wealth of information there, which should help you. Once you start mounting couplers, any specific questions then be answered by the group.

 

Have fun.

Hey Chris, Have you tried putting Kadees on some rolling stock?

Might be a good way to get your feet wet before tackling the engines. 

kadee reply,,,,,after removeing the coupler from a MTH loco i super glue a plastic shim to the truck chassis , i rivet the kadee box to gether with a piece of soft metal rod which i cut to size and put the kadee box in a vise and slowly smash the rod which in turn becomes a rivet , file it smooth and your done. super glue the coupler box to the shim check hight.  and your done, ive done this all the time with no failures pulling 20 car trains,,,0 failures,,real simple,,the coupler box can be removed with needle nose plyers...i know its kinda crude but it works all the time..and is a easy way to go...all kadee all the time!     conrail john

If you've never mounted Kadees before, I would definitely do.some cars first. Engines are a whole different ball game.

100% right. You need to start with rolling stock and transition cars. Running them in a train finds the questionable spots in your layout (uneven spots, overly sharp curves, etc.) You'll also get the hang of car-to-car incompatibilities. From there, if you're going to put kadees on three-rail locomotives, you'll have to make a pilot spacer plate. Laminated styrene will work You then have to remove the pilots from the trucks. How you mount the pilots to the frame and spacers is a personal choice. You can drill/tap the pilot and screw it to the chassis, drill/tap the spacer or drill through everything and use nuts. You can use the Kadee holes for mounting if you wish.

Matt and John,

I am going to start with rolling stock first.  I would also assume that it would be wise to purchase the mounting gauge as well.  I am assuming I cannot mount those Kadees on the engines without screwing down the pilots and that is what has me nervous!  Does anyone do it for a fee?  I am almost certain I would sub it out.

 

Dave, I talked to mike last night about it.  I sent you and email.

 

Chris

Chris

 

     Please buy the mounting gauge. Anyone who has done conversions will agree.

 

Ray Marion

I had posted this several months ago. Helpful diagrams from the Kadee site. A lot of information on this page. There are several different O-scale coupler choices Following is (4) of many.
Note that 1 1/16" is 11/16"
Kadee 805

Kadee 806 short

Kadee 847 Underset shank. Coupler center and mounting height are the same.
Kadee 742 Overset shank Increases mounting height.


Mounting Gauge #812.  Click on underlined phase to link.

The Kadee Height Gauge is a MUST, as well as some styrene in different thickness, .005, .010, .020, in strips or sheets and you can cut your own. Height is critical, for smooth operation, especailly if you ever plan to use the delayed action uncoupling magnets. 

You can see "custom" mounting pads here, cut from strip styrene. You will also need screws in different lengths because everything requires a different thickness of shims. ie: 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2 etc etc

 

 

Hey Chris, post a pic when you get your first car done.

I get all my screws from Micro Fasteners, out of New Jersey. I even have had to use some 3/4" long 2-56 machine screws for mounting Kadees on the rear of some steam locomotive tenders.

Mike--thanks for the diagrams....Greg

When you get into putting Kadees on engines, as Matt stated, you will have to build a mounting platform of some sorts after you remove the giant Claw (3R coupler). Fixing the pilot as most do with 3RS equipment, involves even more scratch building, because now you have to make spacers to attach the pilot to the chassis, and the the coupler to the pilot. I can't even tell you how many hours I have in this GP30 project.

 

 This photo shows the large hole you have to tend with after removing the 3 rail coupler. I also made a spacer to fix the pilot to the chassis.

 

This photo shows all the scratch work I did to fix the pilot, build a mounting pad, and I also removed the out dated foot boards.

 

Doing a fixed pilot conversion almost always requires 072 curves, but I modify the coupler box sides and the coupler shank to get even more "swing" out of them. Granted you'll never get an 031 curve with fixed pilots, but you can solve a lot of derailmment issues caused by track issues, with those 2 minor modifications.

Here's a modified coupler box for a Golden Gate Depot 21" passenger car. The standard boxes just didn't like all the 072 curves, so I provided a little more swing out of each coupler. The coupler shank is also modified in the box but I don't have a picture. Once everything is painted flat black, you'll never even notice the modification.

 

Chris,

 

Along with the Kadee mounting gauge, get a machinist's ruler like this one:

 

http://littlemachineshop.com/p...w.php?ProductID=1827

 

Cheap and it will let you get in there to measure (instead of eyeball) for whatever thickness shims you'll need.

 

I drilled and tapped all of my engines for mounting Kadees, but super glue should also do the job if the areas are clean.

 

On some of my steam engines I also had to remove some die-cast material to get a coupler on the pilot.  Jeweler's files were mainly used, but I also used my Dremel to get started.  Hey, I figure if a dentist can drill around in my mouth without removing some of the finer detail , I should be able to do the same with my trains

 

Like most things, the hardest part is making that first cut.  If you need any advice on a particular engine, post some photos on here and we should be able to get you going.

Bob,  The ruler and the file seemed to be a must!  Taking that first step is going to be the hardest.

 

Hot water,  The strips of styrene, are they plastruc.  If not who makes it?

 

Laidoffsick,  The pics are great gives a good visual of what needs to be done.  Also i would to try and modify the box for more swing.

 

MikeCT,  Diagrams are priceless for us.

 

Mr. Penca and AGHR Matt,  Do you have a pics of putting them together?

 

Dave (Bluegill),  I thank you for the phone call.  Did not mean to brush you off, in the middle of checking out in Sam's club.  What a mad house.  Will try to call you back later today. 

 

When this project gets underway, I will start with the rolling stock.  I hope to have a pic of the "S" curve later tonight.  I believe it will be the tricky spot.

 

Does anyone modify engines?

 

Chris

 

 

1) I believe that "styrene" is indeed a form of "plastic". I use the EVERGREEN brand, and my local hobby shop orders the 1/2" (.500") wide sizes in all the various thickness that I need.

 

2) Yes, I up-grade ALL my steam locomotive to Kadee couplers.

Yes to the engine query!

 

All my engines have Kadees except my new 3rd Rail E7 and that's only because I'm back-logged on projects.  As soon as I complete my article for my SAL Double-Door boxcar, my 4 PS-1 boxcars (scratchbuilt doors/paint/lettering for SAL prototypes), my 4-6-0/Vanderbilt tender build, and some scenery upgrades, then I'll put Kadees on my E7.

Does anyone modify engines?  (whoops)  I meant sub out the work?

 

Chris  

Looking Good..Happy New Year all..Conrail John

Love my Kadee's, I'm about 60% complete with my rolling stock conversion.  With another twenty kadee's on the way. I have no plans to convert the motive power, I have had no issues with Kadee staying latched to the engines couplers.  If I do I'll use transistion cars.

 

By the way for the 805 Jason's train shop is the cheapest I've found at 2.25 a pair.

John,

 

Thanks man!  This is all your fault ya know!

 

It is a good day for running trains if you happen to be down this way.

 

Happy New Year!

 

Gary, did you use a coupler gauge?  Seems you were able to crank them out quick!  Any pics?

Dave can you send pics of them on your home layout?

Chris

It is absolutely IMPERATIVE that you purchase the Kadee coupler height gauge. You will need it on EVERY single piece you up-grade!

I to Love my Kadee's, I'm about 50%

Yep I have the gauge.  I've done mostly Atlas cars my few Weaver cars.  What's left are my AtlasO hoppers, Kline hoppers, MTH cars, MTH passenger cars and I am undecided on converting my Lionel milk cars.  Might just leave those alone due to their collection value.

 

Any new rolling stock will be converted on the spot if I don't buy the two rail version.

 

I'll do a video and post.

Don't know if this helps but this most of the cars I've converted.

 

 

25, 26 cars don't have to worry about them pulling a part under heavy load, plus the coupler slack when it runs out.  Awesome.

My 2 cents: I don't buy any engines w/o fixed pilots anymore. Use the height gauge. Check the couplers from time to time as I notice the smaller spring that closes the claw can come out, dropping off cars occasionally. Enjoy.

I put a Kadee on my 3rd Rail 2-10-4 tonight.  The whole train is now Kadee equipped.

 

I guess I got the bug.

 

Its a good bug....