Dave Zucal posted:That black wire is your antenna.
OK, so it's supposed to be like that? Connected on the bottom and not connected to anything at the top? Thanks.
Does anyone know which fuse supports that top input/output? I have 18v entering the input side but it's not making it to the output side. Thanks!
I don't have power on that top output. I measured and I have 18v coming in but it isn't making it to the output. Does anyone have an idea what fuse supports that top channel? Or any other advice? Thanks!
The fuses may be in slightly different places in different TIU models. Just pull each of the 4 fuses, one at a time, until you find one that's obviously blown.
If you can't see that a fuse is blown, use an ohmmeter to check for 0 resistance across the fuse ends.
Check the tightness of the nuts on the back side of your inputs and outputs before you seal the TIU up. Also push down on the circuit board that the antenna comes off to make sure it didn't work loose from heating and cooling.
Barry Broskowitz posted:The fuses may be in slightly different places in different TIU models. Just pull each of the 4 fuses, one at a time, until you find one that's obviously blown.
If you can't see that a fuse is blown, use an ohmmeter to check for 0 resistance across the fuse ends.
Barry - as I'm sure you've gathered, I'm pretty much an electrical ignoramous until I learn how to do something. How do I use an ohmmeter (hope this is just a setting in my multimeter)? Do I put the meter prongs on each side if the installed fuse housing, or partially pull the fuse and touch the prongs to the actual fuse legs or ...? Thanks.
Dave Zucal posted:Check the tightness of the nuts on the back side of your inputs and outputs before you seal the TIU up. Also push down on the circuit board that the antenna comes off to make sure it didn't work loose from heating and cooling.
Dave - ok, thanks. Will try.
I set the multimeter on the omega symbol and tested each fuse with the power off. They all registered 0.L. I then took a new fuse and substituted it for each of the existing fuses, one by one, and then after each I tested volts. No dice. I tightened the black screws and pushed down that oars a little. Still no dice.
PJB posted:Barry Broskowitz posted:The fuses may be in slightly different places in different TIU models. Just pull each of the 4 fuses, one at a time, until you find one that's obviously blown.
If you can't see that a fuse is blown, use an ohmmeter to check for 0 resistance across the fuse ends.
Barry - as I'm sure you've gathered, I'm pretty much an electrical ignoramous until I learn how to do something. How do I use an ohmmeter (hope this is just a setting in my multimeter)? Do I put the meter prongs on each side if the installed fuse housing, or partially pull the fuse and touch the prongs to the actual fuse legs or ...? Thanks.
There is a setting on your meter in the ohm section that makes a loud continuous "beep when you touch the red leads to the black leads on the volt meter. The meter may show this setting as a little speaker.
This means that there's a continuous circuit......
To test the TIU's channel fixed 1 put one lead on the black input and the other lead on the black output.
If it beeps (sounds) or the meter moves the circuit is complete meaning the fuse is OK.... If not it's either a blow fuse or something more serious.
Just a reminder a TIU needs fixed 1 powered or a AUX power supply to turn on. Is the red LED on top of the tiu lighting up?
Barry, thanks for the instructions. I did as you said. All 4 fuses made that same sound. And Gregg, thanks for the reminder. I had the Z500 plugged into the Aux port. So, at this point, I have 4 functional fuses, independent power to the TIU, tested 18v going into the TIU's top-most input and somewhere between it and the output, there is a problem. Ugh!
With no power applied to TIU, what happens if you place one lead of your ohmmeter on the red output and the other on the red input? And if you use black output & input? You should get continuity.
RJR posted:With no power applied to TIU, what happens if you place one lead of your ohmmeter on the red output and the other on the red input? And if you use black output & input? You should get continuity.
RJR - with no power, I get continuity on all black input-output channels and also on the two red fixed channels.
Peter
Let's see if I get this straight. Using your AC voltmeter, and with some lighted cars on the track, what voltage are you getting on your transformer output posts, what voltage on the input fixed 1 posts, and what voltage on the output fixed 1 posts? They should be same, or very close.
that is the antenna for talking to the remote! ok
Alan
don t move it or hook it to anything oe you will dmage transmitter board!!!
PJB posted:With my son's help, we successfully installed DCS 5 into our TIU and remotes this morning!
Not an easy task given how much this process relies on the consumer having just the right components, many of which are obscure or uncommon to have laying around the house in 2016. Luckily, we had an old Windows based computer (we use MacBook Pros and iPads nowadays), located an appropriate serial adapter cable, a 1.5 mm cable (pure serendipity) and the ancient curly phone cord my neighbor loaned me yesterday.
Is our pike working any more problem-free? Unknown. We ran it for maybe 2 minutes, given the upgrade (between locating all the needed items and downloads) took over an hour. I'll post again with an update.
I think you can bring your TIU to York and have it upgraded by MTH for no charge.
RJR posted:Let's see if I get this straight. Using your AC voltmeter, and with some lighted cars on the track, what voltage are you getting on your transformer output posts, what voltage on the input fixed 1 posts, and what voltage on the output fixed 1 posts? They should be same, or very close.
Not sure I follow. My issue is with the top most post. It's a variable post. I get 18v in and 0 out. The fixed posts and the bottom variable post are fine. A passenger car on a main powered by any post other than the top gets full power.
OK, I thought it was a fixed post that didn't work. I do not know what you mean by "top most post." User the numbers on the TIU; we can't tell which way is up on your layout.
If a variable post won't pass power, and you have it set up correctly, there is an easy repair job needed. If not under warranty, GGG can fix; he's done one for me at a reasonable price.
The question for you is to be sure you've set that track up correctly on your remote.
Ray Lombardo, it was not MTH that does the free upgrades at York. It is a group of volunteers at the Wednesday night get together.
If a user can operate the Loader program, which is easy, a new world of possibilities opens, like saving the contents of a remote to a computer, before problems develop, so that if a remote reset becomes necessary at some time, nothing will be lost. Or if one has multiple remotes, one can make them all alike.
Before you decide that a variable channel isn't passing voltage, set it to fixed mode by doing the following:
- Press Menu.
- Scroll to SYSTEM and press the thumbwheel.
- Scroll to DCS SETUP and press the thumbwheel.
- Select the TIU and press the thumbwheel. (if you only have one TIU, skip this step.)
- Select Variable #1 and press soft key FXD once or twice until you get the message "set to fixed mode"
- Select Variable #2 and press soft key FXD once or twice until you get the message "set to fixed mode"
- Press Menu a few times to exit the DCS menus.
Turn the TIU off and then on again, and measure the input and output voltage on each channel.
 | This and a whole lot more is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!" This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store! |
breezinup posted:PJB posted:With my son's help, we successfully installed DCS 5 into our TIU and remotes this morning!
Not an easy task given how much this process relies on the consumer having just the right components, many of which are obscure or uncommon to have laying around the house in 2016. Luckily, we had an old Windows based computer (we use MacBook Pros and iPads nowadays), located an appropriate serial adapter cable, a 1.5 mm cable (pure serendipity) and the ancient curly phone cord my neighbor loaned me yesterday.
Good to know there's an opportunity for operators to class up their layouts a little, and promote efficiency, with different colored curly cords.
Curly Cord 1959 Advert.
Me." Put me through to the billing department Please"
Operator.. Sir just press 298 on your phone and that will take you through to the billing dept
Me " My phone doesn't have any buttons to press"
Operator.. What kind of phone do you have?
Me It's black with a curly cable and a wheel that looks like a wagon wheel.
Operator... "Oh that's a rotary phone"
Me Yes I think so.
Operator,, Sir they went out of style about the same time as black and white TV.
Me "I have a Black & white TV,
Operator You do?
Me" yes I'm coloured blind and have no need for a Colored TV"
Operator" I'm sorry to hear about that" Hang on Maybe I can patch you through.
Me thank you.
Barry Broskowitz posted:Before you decide that a variable channel isn't passing voltage, set it to fixed mode by doing the following:
- Press Menu.
- Scroll to SYSTEM and press the thumbwheel.
- Scroll to DCS SETUP and press the thumbwheel.
- Select the TIU and press the thumbwheel. (if you only have one TIU, skip this step.)
- Select Variable #1 and press soft key FXD once or twice until you get the message "set to fixed mode"
- Select Variable #2 and press soft key FXD once or twice until you get the message "set to fixed mode"
- Press Menu a few times to exit the DCS menus.
Turn the TIU off and then on again, and measure the input and output voltage on each channel.
This and a whole lot more is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!"
This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store!
Barry,
Well, if you were here I think I would have hugged you just now. This worked like a charm! In all seriousness, I had gone through these steps a while back, hence, the 4 mains being powered all this time. Is it the upgrade I just did with your help? From the 4.20 to 5 that may be the reason I needed to do this again?
Thanks again Barry.
See Barry you are appreciated 
Clem
Is it the upgrade I just did with your help? From the 4.20 to 5 that may be the reason I needed to do this again?
An update wouldn't do it, however, if you reset the TIU, that would do it.
| This and a whole lot more is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!" This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store! |
