TIU power supply

The Best is what you are using.  There is no overkill, according to Tim Taylor. 

The DCS manual states "12 to 24VAC" and and "1 to 10 amps capacity". I personally use a wall wart that was originally made for home security systems. Output is 16VAC with a 1.4 amp capacity. This works quite well for me. I do not have any AIU's hooked up, but when I do, i've got another wall wart that has 2.8 amps capacity if the 1.4 A unit isn't enough.

These wall warts are readily available on Ebay for less than the Radio Shack unit(which costs over $25$ + tax).

Searched older  post.   The Radio Shack product is Enercell­ Switchable 18/24VAC 1 AMP Power Adapter #273-331 with #273-344 Enercell Adaptaplug M.  This AC transformer should be used in the 18 Volt position.  Adaptaplug M is a seperate piece that best fits the TIU Aux power plug-in.

Hey Mike ..... is the center on the plug to the TIU positive or negative???

If you're using a totally separate power supply for Aux Pwr it doesn't matter.  If you're Aux Pwr is shared with track power in any way the center of the plug must be negative (common, black, what ever your preferred term).

Sure can be overkill.  Cost of the power supply must be considered.  Anyone going to buy a Z4000 just to power the AUX port?

 

If you have a 12-18 volt AC or DC wall war hanging around from some device you know longer use, it should work.

Careful, I have been known to over-engineer stuff. That Z4000 will work just fine for a thousand AIU's...

 

It's nice having 200 amp mains on the home plus a 70 amp backup gennie,

 

On a more serious note, I supply power to track, switches, signals seperately and with each pair color coded. The loop is divided again into 4 quarters each with it's own Power Distribution Block. And further... well.. you get the idea.

 

I tend to scoop up wallwarts with or without any of the Z 500-1000 transformers.

Soooo......

 

I'm getting a new DCS and TIU from Jason's Train for my birthday.  I've been powering my layout (8' x 12' with 2 loops) with just "1 side" of the Z-4000 and 3 lock-ons.  My plan was to send power to the new TIU from the "other side" of the Z-4000.

 

Any advice or tips I should be aware of?

Welcome to DCS.

 

Consider powering the TIU from one of the fixed voltage outputs of the Z4000 to the AUX port of the TIU, which will leave the 2nd handle free for other uses.

 

I gather from your post that you have been running conventional locos.  You may want to consider using one handle of the Z4000 for each loop.  Insulate the loops from each other.  Use VARIABLE 1 & 2 and you can control your conventional locos from the DCS remote, which will vastly increase the joy of operating.  You can run both conventional and PS2, on on each loop, and seamlessly cross them over between loops.

Close examination of the add-on plug M indicates it is polarized though this wallwart transformer will plug into a 110 volt AC outlet either way, defeating the purpose.  Not much help.  It works well. Apparently when plugged in it disconnects the power source from Fix1 IN.  With (4) main tracks running on the TCA Forth Pitt High Rail layout, using the Aux power, we can experience an outage on Fix1 IN and maintain DCS control on the other three tracks. Var1 and Var2 are set to Fixed along with Fix1 and Fix2. There are (4) DCS channels being used.   Power is from (2) Z 4000s.  

RJR,

 

Thanks for that tip.  I have a single postwar Lionel....and 3 modern PS2 MTH locos.  Only been running 2 locos at the same time all in conventional mode with "left handle" of Z-4000.  This works for about 2 loops before 1 train set overruns the other.  Really looking forward to DCS so I can "match speed" and avoid these overruns.  Currently, I just use my hand to drag-down the faster train for 3-4 seconds to allow the slower train some space.  This gets old after about 4 or 5 loops.  My 4 year old son doesn't seem to notice.  As long as there is plenty of smoke....bells....and horns going off.

AEST BOSS:  You'll find you'll use the old Lionel less & less because of the greater fun of running DCS.  I've got a bundh of pre- & post-war Lionels I never run for that reason.

 

Here's a suggestion to operate a conventional & a PS2 loco on same track at same time:  Have the conventional loco's train slightly heavier than the PS2's so it'll run slowwr.  You can raise and lower track voltage (& use reverse button) to control it without markedly affecting the PS2 train unless you get below 12-14 or so volts.  The PS2's speed you of course control digitally without regard to track voltage (unless you get too low).

 

You will also find that if you use VARIABLE terminals and have the input voltage set high, you can't slow the conventional down enough.  Solution is to reduce the input voltage to the TIU to 16-18.  Reason is that VARIABLE alters waveform.

Isolate both ground rails of a length of track (two sections or maybe three).  Isolate one ground rail back up the track about two train lengths and run a wire from the isolated ground to the 'dead' tracks ground rail.  The lead train will stop when it reaches the dead track, but start as the following train approaches.  You can do this in multiple places on the layout if space permits.  I've ran 3 conventional locos with different speeds on one track using this technique.  My grandson loves to watch the trains start and stop on their own.

Oh, and you have to have the e-unit locked in forward sot the trains start up when they get power.

I got the TIU and wired it "fixed in" to my Z-4000 "fixed 16 voltage out".  I would have used the "AUX IN" but didn't have the proper plug-in to use that port.  I then send "fixed out" from the TIU to a lock-on.  DCS is working good with my PS2/PS3 engine.

 

I also kept my 3 track lock-ons powered to the left handle of the Z-4000 variable out put.  My non-PS2/PS3 engine works just find on the track with speed control and direction as it should.

 

Here is my problem: Now the Z-4000 indicates 0-Volts and 0-Amps on the left side values regardless of what you do with the handle.  I know the track is increasing and decreasing in voltage simply by watching the conventional locos actions.  Why did I lose Voltage/Amperage indication on the Z-4000?  The only thing that has really changed to the track is the additional lock-on attached to the TIU.

 

PS: I did buy and download Barry's manual and find nothing to help me answer this problem.  Thanks for any ideas and help.

You really should not be using the 14 volt output (it's not 16 volts) for track power.

Powering the TIU from the fixed voltage outputs only works if you have that feeding into the AUX port of the TIU.  Not sure of how you wired it, but you may have connected the handle output and the fixed voltage output together, which could damage the Z4000 internally.  I suggest strongly you disconnect the 14 or 16 volt fixed voltage output from the system until you get the proper plug for AUX socket.

According to his original post, he is using a z-500 brick, which means he already has one.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mike, you didn't get it.  The question was whether there can be overkill.  The answer is 'Yes!"  And I gave an example.

OK you do not have a plug to to go to AUX input. Plug 14V accessory into Fixed 1 and put NOTHING on the fixed 1 output.

 

 

I got it.  If a person was stupid enough, they could achieve "overkill".  

 

But to the topic at hand; I don't think using a 3 amp power supply in this application qualifies.  

 

My Tim Taylor remark was meant in jest; which obviously went right over your noggin. 

 

 

 

 

<cite>www.timgtaylor.com</cite>

I appreciate y'alls comments.  I'm new to all this......and thank everyone for helping us newbies along.

 

Here is my current wiring set-up and procedure....which seems to be working OK:

    * Z-4000 Varible Output #1 (left handle) wired to TIU Varible Input #1

    * I've run "jumper" wires from TIU Varible Input #1 over to the TIU Fixed Input #1 to give me power on the TIU since I don't have the AUX Input power adapter.

    * I've run power from the TIU Varible Output #1 to 3 lock-ons evenly spread out on my single track layout

    * To begin a session, I push Z-4000 (left handle) up to give me 18 Volts on its meter

    * I have power to TIU by indication from the red power light indicator on TIU....but ZERO power to track since none of the "lighted" lock-ons are lit-up

    * I then select TRACK on the DCS and select my "named track" layout......then increase the voltage on the thumb wheel up to 18 Volts.  Now lighted lock-ons are glowing bright.

    * Now I select ENGINE on the DCS and select my "named MTH engine" and push the Start Up key and begin playing with my trains.

 

This seems clumsy to me.....and certainly a backwards way of doing it....but I'm getting the job done.  Tell me an easier way of doing it if there is one.