Toasty Polar Express

Just use a bridge rectifier to change AC track power to DC for the motor. Probably run track power direct to the smoke unit. If it was me, I might add a manual DPDT center-off switch for manual reversing. No doubt you will get additional advice here, I don't know what voltage the lights might be.

I'd probably treat it to a used Williams Reverse board.  I have a couple, and can sell you one cheap if you like.  That way you'll have full functionality for a lot less than $50.  Wiring the board in is very easy, two wires from the track pickups and two wires to the motor, job done.

The smoke unit should work wired directly to the track voltage, and I'd wire it through the smoke control switch so you can switch if off if desired.

Just add a bridge or E unit as mentioned. Here is a circuit for a headlamp. The smoke unit can be hooked directly to the track also,assuming it is not damaged. Not sure of the operating voltage.

www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowT...=619&categoryId=

Dale H

Thanks very much to all of you, gentlemen.  A part of me was hoping someone would say, "sure, put those two wires togther and you're good to go".  I'm afraid my lack of familiarity with the low-voltage world has left me scratching my head at most of the terminology you shared, but I'm working to learn.  I'm somewhat surprised to see there seems to be a lack of basic 'entry-level-for-dummies' wiring diagrams online.

gunrunnerjohn, I will reach out to you via email tomorrow about the Williams board and give that a try.  An inexpensive fix that restores functionality is no doubt the way to go.

In the meantime, I'd like to test the smoke unit to verify there's not a problem there that contributed to the burnout.  Can I connect the two leads from the smoke unit to the red and black coming off the floor of the locomotive?  I'm assuming those are the track power coming in.

I'm still struggling with the "small" words.

If the headlight is an LED, you'll have to handle that, a diode and a resistor is the easy way.  I confess I don't know exactly what smoke unit is in that unit, most of the Lionel conventional models run from track voltage.  I'm assuming that's a puffer type smoke unit.  If so, I'd probably use a meter and just measure the resistance, that will tell us more about it's health.

What's the exact model number of the locomotive?

I had a 1225 Polar Express on my bench this week.

It appeared to have a traditional incandescent bulb (midget base), and an good, old fashioned smoke unit with a flapper.

The bulb was secured with a bit of red glop (like nailpolish) to prevent it from loosening.

Typical smoke unit with 25-30 ohms of resistance?  12V bulb?

Looks like more electronics that I would have imagined in this conventional locomotive.

http://www.lionel.com/Customer...41-9eb8-7468eb82d2fa

Since you've stripped everything out, my choice would still be the simple reverse unit.  It would be simple to wire, the most complex part is figuring out how to mount it.  I'm assuming that blue wire is connected with the red one on the collector terminal, at least it appears that way.  If that's the case, to get the smoke to function, just ground the other loose wire on the smoke unit.  I'd run it through the smoke switch to allow control.