If an MTH z500, z750, or z1000 goes bad, is it usually the brick, or the controller? Thanks for reading.
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So far I have not had any problems with the bricks. I needed to use contact cleaner on the inside of one of the controllers a couple of times to correct uneven current output.
Ron
I would start with the controller first....no moving parts in the brick...
What's the issue with the transformer ....... voltage that drops under load; no voltage at all; voltage that varies, etc. ?
Ok, only run conventional on a simple oval of Fastrack. No switches. All locos PS2 or PS3. Initially thought it was a single loco, but all seem to be doing it. Intermittent slowing, and speeding up, not any particular section of the oval I can discern. Track and z1000 are new as of 12/20, no more than 50 hours of usage in that time. Today, engine slowed, brakes squealed, stopped, began to start to shut down, then started up again. Bought both T & T from a bona fide internet dealer, who suggested it’s the track, and I should run feeder wires to cure the problem. A 6 month old 40” x 60” oval of Fastrack needs feeder wires? Is that possible?
Dirty track?
Don’t think so; clean it regularly with isopropyl alcohol.
It sounds to me that the controller is not putting out a consistent current flow. It's like the same issue that I have with my controller. It seems that the potentiometer in the controller oxidizes and needs to be cleaned off. It's a simple procedure and can't hurt to give it a try. Just remove the top cover and spray some contact cleaner on the potentiometer. Let it dry, reassemble, and give it a try. I know it worked for me. If it doesn't help, then there may be other issues with the controller.
Ron
Thx, Ron. I will try that.
Ok Ron, opened the controller up, and I gave the turny thing a good squirt with CRC contact cleaner, and made a bunch of turns back and forth. Felt like it moved more freely, closed it up, used it, but no change in train behavior. Case in point, brand new, first time out of the box, PS3 diesel, struggled as I advanced the throttle until it was nearly fully open, and, then, it just took off like it had been launched!
Would repeated squirts of CRC be of any benefit? Or is it all or nothing?
It's time to stop spraying and start trouble-shooting. Do you own a digital meter? Put an ammeter in series with the track supply. Place a load (not a short) on the track. Observe the meter and tell us what you see.
I’m no expert but I’ve heard it’s not good to clean your track with isopropyl alcohol, something about the water in it having an affect on the track. I’ll see if I can find the info.
With Fas Track it could be at the connections between sections. Especially if cleaning the track actually caused corrosion at the connectors.
Oh yes have you checked the voltage out put of the brick?
Ron
Do you have a different transformer to try? That would tell you if track or transformer problem.
Sounds to me like a track issue as well. Since you're running conventional, set the transformer to a 10 acv output and measure the voltage at the transformer output terminals with an analog or digital volt meter set to the ac scale, with no engines on the track, to see if it is putting out a consistent voltage, at least with no load.
Next, measure the voltage at multiple points along the layout and see if the voltage is consistent from point to point.
Next, put an engine on the track and perform the same two tests and report back.
Fastrack with poor connection points can certainly cause the issue you describe. Check this video from Lionel.
I would split the track in two loops. Made a hugh difference. good luck
