Transitioning the MTH Bridge to End abutments

You could always build your own out of 2x4's for example & by adding ground cover, lichen, etc. cover up the wood.

You have the piers correctly positioned (unlike the MTH catalog photo with the strangely-placed center pier).

Just bury the outer half of the end piers in your hillside and they will look like the correct abutments.

Jim

Here's how I did a customer bridge on his layout before and after .

Guy

Keep the ideas and pictures coming guys... I was thinking about maybe using this bridge abutment by scenic express?  I wanted to continue the stone work on the ends, maybe with a couple of retaining wall wings.

Those bridges will make quite a statement on your layout.  I like your last thought of using the bridge abutments from Scenic Express best, but the ideas are good too.

Art

I custom cut the piers to fit the scenery.  Some eliminate the middle pier.

mike do you have a closer picture?

HO has all the good stuff sometimes....

FWIW - I used the scenic express abutments and bridge shoes on my layout.

-Greg

Is that center pier on the MTH Arch bridge REALLY needed???? It looks awful to me......no real Arch bridge would have one.  I will be installing one on my layout and do not plan on using a center support.......is the bridge that weak it is needed????

I don't use the center pier on my layout and have had no problems.

I was able to move mine to the ends and the deflection was small. They are slightly stronger than an Atlas truss bridge.

Greg, do you have any pictures of what you used?

Most that comment on the center pier say it is not need.  The Atlas Pratt Truss bridge has metal bars hidden in the structure for additional support.

Mike, that is a nice design. Does that bridge pull out, knock down, or swing?

Good afternoon

I carved mine out of blue foam

Clem

Looks nice.

Does anyone have an image of the back? Flat? Hollow?

Are these easy to cut?

I think the issue will be the short little extension piece I will need from the abuptment to the first bridge support.

Hey J Daddy,   Love Them Bridges Man  Beautiful ……..

If you add a Scenic Express abutment set, you won't need the pier on each end. That part of the bridge will rest on the abutments for support instead. You will only need the piers at each end of the main span.

To be accurate engineering-wise, there must be a pier at each end of the arch span and no support in the center of the arch. There should be just a single support (the abutment or a modified pier, as per Mike CT's photo) at the outer ends of the short spans.

Jim

Thanks Jim-

I am thinking that the last short span will transverse between the last pier to the end abutment. Does any one know if a manufacture makes these girder panels for kit bashing?

I didn't use any of the piers on my layout.  You don't need them for that span.

.....

Dennis

J daddy

You are on the right path with abutments.  You can use MDF to simulate concrete.  Scribe it with an exacto knife to get the look of concrete formed with individual boards.

Look for the Atlas deck girder bridge for approaches to your main span.

http://www.atlaso.com/odeckgirderbridge.htm

    J Daddy years ago I bought some Lionel trestle kit's that I believe were 10 in. long that I kit bashed and ended up with a 16 in. long box beam bridge that was double track. Now on the new layout that I am building I have A 5 1/2 ft. curved box beam trestle that I built. The sides of the trestle I bought I believe the pieces of box beam from Scene Express are 26 in. and they are flexible that I cut the two ends off (they have 45 degree angles on them). I glued the box beam to fine chip chip board that I cut into A curve that is double track wide. This curved trestle runs between two Atlas double track Prat Truss 40 in. bridges so I know you can kit bash box beam material. Choo Choo Kenny 

For bridge abutments for single track bridges, check out these from presizemodels.  These are resin so they can be cut with a saw.  The lower part is hollow, the upper part is solid.  These are new, as are the bridge shoes.  Shoes come in 2 sizes.  Full disclosure; I am the owner.  I love bridges, so there will be more.

SilkCityBridgeworks makes these in any length.

Steve - whoa! now that is what I need... looking for your website... no find

Last night I added the foundation for the abutments, thus looking at the "missing span" dimensions that I will need.

The other side I have to shorten up a bit but it will be a tad longer...

I use my captain high pants car from K-line to check all clearances... at one time I was going to sell this car because of its awkward looks but it has served it purpose well!

Side note.  The Atlas track needs cork under it the length of the bridge to raise the track slightly above the walkways, which may interfere with train parts. IMO. That the installation I end with.  IMO Mike   Bridges are designed for MTH track which has the road bed.

Thanks John, I wounder what material they are made out of?

They should do the trick.

here it is J.D. http://www.pre-size.com/

Thanks Mike for the heads up. I will have to add some styrene shims then to the structure and track.

they are made of tempered hardboard. email me if you need more info

Kinda funky address, but I did find the following website using a bing search:

http://72.29.127.20/~presizec/index.html

Some cool stuff to consider when I redo my layout.

Jim

Great looking bridges.   I made my abutments from real cement. 

The bridge is a "HO" bridge turned up side down.

Hi J Daddy • I have a picture of the MTH Steel Truss Bridge on my layout.

The Detroit & Mackinac Railway, could not put in a long bridge with the abutments.

If you are crossing the Huron River, you should be OK.

Check with Ulmer or Bert, they may have some ideas.

Cheers from the Detroit & Mackinac Railway.

  Click photo to enlarge.