Transitioning the MTH Bridge to End abutments

not to take anything away from Silk City's products.

( I'm dying to get one of their bridges)

https://www.facebook.com/pages...orks/203411956346375

Here's something else I bookmarked for when I start building:

http://www.sceneryexpress.com/.../productinfo/RR0010/

I know the siderods on a steam loco will not clear the walkways with 027 track. You will have to send a steam loco through the bridge to find out.

For those of you having trouble finding the presizemodels website, you can find the address in my profile.  I should have mentioned that in the first place.  I'm really enjoying this thread, bridges are one of my interests.  The flexible girder bridge is a little mind-bending.

I'm working on a more prototypical open deck for the Lionel extension through-truss bridges, to replace the sheet-metal decks.  I should have pictures to post in a week or so.

I haven't seen the MTH steel truss bridge in person, but from what I can see in these pictures, the underneath deck detail is much nicer than Lionel's metal pan.  Just looking for that sweet spot of price/availability vs detail and what looks right (for the D&RGW) to my eye.  It really helps to see where that is for all of you.

Here are the Scenic Express abutments installed.

Steve, thanks for the heads up on the pre-size products, many good looking, hard too find items I can make good use of down the road as my layout takes shape.

Jack

I wanted to thank Mike CT for calling out the height issue on the side rods. I indeed checked and sure enough the articulates rods will hit the mounted sidewalks.

I wanted to keep the deck open so the MTH details cast a shadow on the river below.

So I went to Micheal's and purchase some 3/16 square bass wood and glued them in. This added height will eliminate the issue.

Paint these puppies black and they will do the trick.

Looking good John, it will greatly enhance and showcase trains on your upper loop.

The worst engine I have for hitting close trackside objects is my Lionel 0-8-0.  It has hit one of my DZ-1000 switch machines witch are below the top of track, The screw on the machine to be specific.

Dan

That is also common with the K-Line Electrics, the trucks have a cast on sliding 3rd rail shoe. Small countersunk screw will fix it.

J Daddy, nice fix looks good…..

We installed these on the G&O garden railroad.  They are made from resin and cut easily with a saber saw.  The back is hollow except for the top piece.  The walls are fairly thick and are strong.  We cut off the top piece and used it another place for a stone wall.  

We repainted them with latex paint in order to protect them from UV damage.

They have been outside for only a few weeks.  This is still in the experimental stage for a garden railroad.  They will work very well on any indoor layout.  I think they are very good looking.  

Joe

Best solution! We stained ours reddish like the bridge as road bed over the bridge ruins the beautiful see thru effect. (Even if it is easier for a real railroad to level track.)

Originally Posted by J Daddy:

I wanted to thank Mike CT for calling out the height issue on the side rods. I indeed checked and sure enough the articulates rods will hit the mounted sidewalks.
I wanted to keep the deck open so the MTH details cast a shadow on the river below.
So I went to Micheal's and purchase some 3/16 square bass wood and glued them in. This added height will eliminate the issue.
Paint these puppies black and they will do the trick.
You're welcome.

Mike CT 

I owe you one pitcher of Beer...

Thanks Dan... I did a triple check with my NYC 0-8-0 last night and its close.

I took a piece of 2" thick Pink foam and cut my own bridge abutments.  I first cut a rectangle and then cut the corners off.  Using a table saw makes quick work.  The bridge supports that come with the bridge make the track height about sic inches.  I had to cut a section out of the top about 3/8" deep the width of the underside support girders so the track would transition to the next section with out ramping up.  Before I installed them I covered them with plaster and painted them a cement color.