TVS Diodes - Transient Voltage Suppressors 1500W 30.8V vs Lionel #34120 TMCC Direct Lockon

The breakers in the PH-180 Powerhouses are very quick. If you connect the TVS at the track connection you should be good. I see no reason to use the lockon.

I can't tell you if they have a TVS inside, but you can buy a lot of TVS diodes for the price of the lock-on.

I use the ZW-C with TVS diodes.

The TMCC Direct Lockon does not have an internal TVS, a rather obvious omission.

The direct lockon degrades the DCS signal.  If you ever plan to add DCS in the future I would not use them.

The breaker on the PH-180 has been plenty fast enough for me.

I like the way they look...and there's plenty of room inside for a TVS to be added.

Chuck, you have to remember they they kill the DCS signal, and when I was using them (before DCS got added), they would trip with about 10% of my locomotives would pass the track power connection.  Nothing was wrong with the engines, the lockon was just too sensitive.  I tried a number of them and they all did it, so it wasn't just a defective unit.  I sold all of them, I just kept one in case I was asked a question about them.  Once I added DCS, I found out that the Direct Lockon zapped the signal.  Same thing happened at our club, the same solution, they got the boot.

The early version was only rated for the 135W PM.  No internal switch.  Later model had an internal switch to select 135W or the newer 180W PM.  G

GGG posted:

The early version was only rated for the 135W PM.  No internal switch.  Later model had an internal switch to select 135W or the newer 180W PM.  G

You're talking about the Powermasters, not the TMCC Direct Lockon, right?  Personally, I'd go with the Legacy PowerMaster and forget about the TMCC Direct Lockon.

The TMCC Direct Lockon ONLY works for command, when you get down to 11-12 volts, it drops out.  It's designed for constant track power, so mixing that with a PowerMaster makes no sense in any case.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

GGG posted:

The early version was only rated for the 135W PM.  No internal switch.  Later model had an internal switch to select 135W or the newer 180W PM.  G

You're talking about the Powermasters, not the TMCC Direct Lockon, right?  Personally, I'd go with the Legacy PowerMaster and forget about the TMCC Direct Lockon.

The TMCC Direct Lockon ONLY works for command, when you get down to 11-12 volts, it drops out.  It's designed for constant track power, so mixing that with a PowerMaster makes no sense in any case.

I think GGG is correct. The early lockons were rated for 135W to match up with the PH135.  Later ones worked with either PH135 or PH180 via switch.   

How about that, I didn't realize there were two versions of those as well.  In any case, I have no use for these, so it's a moot point for me.

hey thanks everybody for your help. do I need the legacy powermaster in addition to the 990 base set? I am running a 2002 zw with 2 180 power bricks.

You only need a Powermaster if you plan to run conventional using the Cab2.  If you are going to use the ZW's handles for conventional engines you don't need a PM.

However, if you want a PM I recommend a Legacy PM.  Easier to set up then the older TMCC PM when using Legacy.  

You don't need a powermaster, the ZW-C you have is addressable from your TMCC/Legacy remote and you can control the voltage out from each handle.

Yes two versions.  You need to go back to the 1999 catalog to see the first.  6-22914.  The later version is 6-14xxx,  G

gunrunnerjohn posted:

You don't need a powermaster, the ZW-C you have is addressable from your TMCC/Legacy remote and you can control the voltage out from each handle.

What John said.  I forgot the ZW-C was addressable from the remote for conventional ops.