Uncoupling Procedure?

It doesn't really matter with model trains, whatever works. For real trains, most likely the last car that remains on the train, because the conductor will be on the step to pull the pin, then stay with the train.

on a real train you open the cutting lever which is right in front of you, on the way back before you re-couple you leave the cars separated by 50 feet then open both to maximise the chance of a good coupling. in step one if the cutting lever wont work propperly you climb across and open the oposite one....safety first of course....john

The lever that is in front of you, will it open the car on the left or the one on the right of you?

That depends on which car/coupler the cut lever is attached to.

as you face the train the cutting lever is on your left it will leave the cars you left behind with the knuckle open. if you open it from the other side it will open the knuckle of the car you are pulling away with...the main event is separating the cars ..one way or the other..john

I have something to put in the mix, which end of the railcar should the brake wheel be at-  front or rear on cars that only have one brake wheel?

It doesn't matter which end of the car has the brake wheel.  If it did, there would be great expense lining things up.  The last thing a railroad wants to do is spend money.

You always tried   to open  the coupler on the remaining train or cars left in a yard. This way  the coupler is open when the cars or train  has to be again  coupled to, No need to stop and open a coupler. Lots of guys working a yard uncoupling a engine    would use the engine, s   operating lever instead of the car(s).  Not a big deal but just saves a little time the next time the cars have to be moved.

 

 most rail cars only have one hand brake.... They can be facing any  direction in a train. It 's just how they end up over their journeys. 

 

 

POP QUIZ...the rail car brake wheel is on the A end or the B end ?

 

B end. B for brake wheel, that's how I remember it.

Right !!!