Since I run a collision repair shop, I have access to these - I really like them and their ease of installation as well as flexibility of different sizes. I think it does make a difference in performance as well. Is anyone else using these or ?
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I just use the clip-on weights that I find in the street.
I've used a bunch of tire weights, but for the last couple I used material I had on hand. 
Yes, those are 45 ACP lead bullets. I didn't like their performance for their intended role, so I repurposed them for this role. This is right at a pound of extra weight, and it made a huge difference in the performance of the HHP-8.
Tire weights are a good idea but I have a large collection of various caliber lead musket balls so I use them. I "cube" them with a heavy hammer. Plus I have a box of 50 cal, 450 grain lead bullets that weigh almost 3 lbs that I never used.
I've been using the stick on wheel weights for years. I buy them by the box on EBay real cheap. The Lionel cars are usually in need of a few ounces to bring them up to NMRA standards.
true meaning to the term "bullet trains"
Yep, I have about 20 pounds of those lead bullets, so I have weights for some time. They're great for adding weight to boxcars as well. 
Yep, I have about 20 pounds of those lead bullets, so I have weights for some time. They're great for adding weight to boxcars as well.
Would make great weights in passenger cars too....with just a little yellow paint. Yah had to know I'd post these again, John.
Bruce
My cars hate going backwards. I always though adding weight inside the cars would help
is this what you guys do ? or what reason is their to make a locomotive heavier ?
I use the stick on wheel wgts in a lot of my cars. I used about 2 pounds of them in an MTH C and O Coal Turbine to give it some real tractive effort. Original Proto 1 version and it was a real weak puller. Now it spins the EARTH under its wheels.. 
When tire weights were lead I used them. Now that they are steel I just use a couple of large washers over the trucks in my light freight cars. One of the benefits of being a pak rat.
Pete
I just go to a sports store and buy fishing line weights. Maybe I'm paying too much?
Alan
Since I run a collision repair shop, I have access to these - I really like them and their ease of installation as well as flexibility of different sizes. I think it does make a difference in performance as well. Is anyone else using these or ?
Yep, I use the same thing. My brother has the auto repair business. I get to within about an ounce or so of the NMRA weight. Depends where I can hide them. It felt strange weighing my rolling stock for some reason.
Yep, I have about 20 pounds of those lead bullets, so I have weights for some time. They're great for adding weight to boxcars as well.
If they're 200gr. your wasting them.
Porsche1662 - the weight gives a loco more adhesion, or traction in the auto world.
Since you can't just stick "bigger tars" on it, or tires with better tread, this is the only way to increase a loco's grip, if it needs help. Can't use the sanders all the time. Most don't have a problem.
Of course, if there is too much weight in the rear of an automobile, one can easily "back it off the highway". I had a 911, years and years ago. I suspect that you may know whereof I speak.
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For weighting RR equipment, I use a lead roof vent, from Home Depot, etc. I cut it with tin snips, shapes easily, also.
Glue, or 2-sided tape.
The tire weights are a good idea - but I don't work at an automotive establishment.
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5lb boxes of wheel weights on EBay are pretty cheap
Yep, I have about 20 pounds of those lead bullets, so I have weights for some time. They're great for adding weight to boxcars as well.
If they're 200gr. your wasting them.
Not really, I was not happy with the performance when used for their original design purpose. I went back to some jacketed bullets, much better accuracy and less bore fouling.
Would someone please remind me what the recommended weight for a car is? I was going to ask this question in a separate thread before I noticed this one.
I seem to remember some about a given weight per inch of car length plus 5, but I don't remember what the unit are. Also I am not sure if that is correct.
I think I'll be asking for a scale for Christmas
Harbor Freight stocks these weights-
http://www.harborfreight.com/1...z-wheel-weights.html
I have used them on HO rolling stock.
Another option is used lawn edger blades.
Inst. that almost 1pound per car ?
Im going to need more lash ups !
Porsche1662 - the weight gives a loco more adhesion, or traction in the auto world.
Since you can't just stick "bigger tars" on it, or tires with better tread, this is the only way to increase a loco's grip, if it needs help. Can't use the sanders all the time. Most don't have a problem.
Of course, if there is too much weight in the rear of an automobile, one can easily "back it off the highway". I had a 911, years and years ago. I suspect that you may know whereof I speak.
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For weighting RR equipment, I use a lead roof vent, from Home Depot, etc. I cut it with tin snips, shapes easily, also.
Glue, or 2-sided tape.
The tire weights are a good idea - but I don't work at an automotive establishment.
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Saw a few of those "lift off the throttle, apply brakes and spin out" results.
I've added weight to a bunch of cars to come up to the standard weights, they do work much better in long trains. It really does help.
I used lead tire weights in weighing Intermountain hopper cars, for boxcars and reefer cars,10 inch inside length for 40' foot car, I used 11 gauge by 9.5 inch long steel strip glued to deck with RTV, MMRA lists for an O scale car 40' long the unweighted car is 6.5 oz minumum weighted is 16 oz and loaded max 26 oz.
For the Intermountain kit reefer and boxcars the light weight, unweighted, is 5 oz, adding this strip as a weight the weighted unloaded car is between 15 to 16 oz, the Weaver boxcars and reefers with the steel weight is 16 to 17 oz. The steel strip is available at Lowe's, Ace Hardware and possibly Menards, I recall they are 8 ' lengths and inexpensive. I cut to required length with a hacksaw, file the cut ends and RTV to the deck. Also applied this strip, shorter lengths with RTV, to out of the slope sheets above the centersill and painted flat black Weaver coal cars and finally disassembled the Weaver PS-2 covered hopper cars and added this strip to the bottom hopper assembly inside the car. Strip lengths for cut to fit inside of the car sides at two locations transversely.
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Where do you get the lead stick-on weights in retail quantities? I tried several auto parts and tire stores a while back and came up empty. I bought some weights at Harbor Freight but they are curved and so the stick-on feature wasn't any use. I tried to flatten them out in a vise but the Harbor Freight weights are made of steel, not lead, and they don't bend easily.
Wurth and Hunter supplies the weights to my shop. I don't think they sell to the public.
Southwest Hiawatha posted:Where do you get the lead stick-on weights in retail quantities?
Lots of selections HERE.
I am sure tire weights are fine.......but I find the barrel shaped fishing weights more versital and cheaper. I watch for close outs when they are discontinued or have a package change......then buy them all.
Laidoffsick posted:I've been using the stick on wheel weights for years. I buy them by the box on EBay real cheap. The Lionel cars are usually in need of a few ounces to bring them up to NMRA standards.
Yep, thats exactly how I do it too! Ebay and the same ones in the picture! Though I do like the "Bullet Train" aspect! Ha ha!
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