Ran across this article on ZDNet today. Anyone had any success using this type of glue?
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Just as an fyi, it is what they use now in dentists offices as a filling, and the gel nails nail salons use work on the same principal. I have seen the UV resin used to repair things and it seems to be pretty tough and durable. The big advantage is unlike expoxy resin it doesn't harden until you use UV on it, which is huge.
FWIW, I've tried this and in general for most repairs I do, it's not really suitable. Here's one big reason why.
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I recently used it for fixing MTH LED lighting that the small staples or attachment points had come loose or were lost when the original LED string was ripped off the shell and damaged. The advantage is this is a non conductive method of attachment while also not damaging the paint or becoming ugly. Example things like CA glue can leave a white film or mist from the fumes, where this can be controlled, even wiped off before controlled UV curing.
Basically, it is the same UV cured resins used in 3D printing methods, but slightly more gelled rather than the much thinner liquids required and used in 3D printing. I don't know what they use as a thickener, but for critical tasks where CA glue and accelerator may not be ideal because of the fume and white film might not be ideal, this is great for those detail part attachment items where you need to control the glue, not have it set until the part is in place, and not leave any traces or other film problems as the glue cures.
Again, this is darn impressive and honestly I think it's the combination of 3D printing making the resins base materials and chemical combinations more readily availaable and driving the cost down that kind of kicked this off. As stated, yes, Dentists used this for some time but because that is limited and medical, the costs were just much higher and largely impractical.
This is ideal for gluing in windows and other details where you may need to position the part, you do not want fumes or other problems, you can instantly cure it with the UV light source in place once in final position.
The glue has to be exposed to UV. For most uses here that means at least one part needs to be clear for the light to reach the adhesive. Dental filling material is applied in thin layers and not covered which is why UV works there. If you tried to use it to bond two opaque pieces only what was pushed out between them would cure.
In places where is can be used though its much stronger than say CA.
Pete
@bigkid posted:Just as an fyi, it is what they use now in dentists offices as a filling, and the gel nails nail salons use work on the same principal. I have seen the UV resin used to repair things and it seems to be pretty tough and durable. The big advantage is unlike expoxy resin it doesn't harden until you use UV on it, which is huge.
And I can tell you from first hand experience it isn't worth a tinkers dam for attaching temporary caps. I had one come off five times in two weeks, two of them less than an hour apart.
I changed dentists right after that.
We use a lot of Loctite brand UV cure glue at work to bond clear polycarbonate parts in production. And there's the key, our parts are clear so the UV light can penetrate and make the strong bond. It's good strong stuff under those specific circumstances. UV cure glue has been around for a while, but its practical application is pretty limited. If you can't get the light into the joint to cure it, it's pretty worthless for train fixin'. We also don't use those single UV LED pocket UV lights, we use big UV light bars in a protected cabinet to cure.
@CJ Meyers posted:We also don't use those single UV LED pocket UV lights, we use big UV light bars in a protected cabinet to cure.
I'm sure that's the other weak point of the UV glue, the lame little UV LED pen they supply isn't nearly powerful enough to properly cure it in some uses.
@Forty Rod posted:And I can tell you from first hand experience it isn't worth a tinkers dam for attaching temporary caps. I had one come off five times in two weeks, two of them less than an hour apart.
I changed dentists right after that.
I don't think it is used on caps, for the reasons that others have said, it has to be exposed, a cap is glued to a post or tooth stump, UV light couldn't get there.
Agreed that it has to be exposed. Where I think it is useful may be more in fixing holes and such where you use epoxy style glues, this wouldn't work well with gluing two pieces together unless as others have said, they were clear.
It's amazing with the right light source like a UV laser how far and deep you can get into areas that are said to be near impossible.
Sometimes, you just need a bigger hammer- I mean light source.
How many people have a UV laser handy to cure their glue? 
I got mine back when we were kicking off the DIY 3D resin printing days from the mUVe3D laser based design. Near UV laser shining through some 3D printed glow in the dark PLA flat sheet to give the persistence of image. Kind of like a slow mechanical oscilloscope https://www.flickr.com/photos/90025904@N04/12779263513/in/album-72157641526838755/
I'm sure you have tools and toys I don't have.
Anyway, the point is, this idea of UV glue is like any other tool in your toolbox. There is a right time and place to use it, it's not meant to replace all other glue or methods. That is what should be the takeaway. It's really good for some things and not as good for others.
This would work. Not sure its the ideal wavelength but fluorescent UV long wave and short wave tubes that would fit are only about 10-12 bucks each. Wear eye protection when using.
https://www.amazon.com/Handhel...hlight/dp/B0737ZYQNK
Pete
I think I'd want something more along these lines, more concentrated light where you want it.
LIGHTFE Black light D11A 395nm UV Flashlight with LG LED Source, Max.3000mW Power Output for UV Glue
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Use what you want but 7 watt UV fluorescents are what works and used commercially and in basic research. Speaking from actual experience here.
Pete
My point is that the much larger UV lamp will be cumbersome to use for some jobs.
Looks like I made a good decision to change dentists. They had no clue what they were doing.
Sure would like to get my money back, though.
There are many variations of UV glue now. First saw it used many years ago for glueing delicate or hard to hold parts to a fixture. It required special "bolts" that had an artificial ruby core. Put glue on tip of bolt, screw into fixture until it touched the part. Then a UV light was used through the bolt to cure the glue. Great tensil strength, but shear strength was weaker. Turning the bolt put it in shear to pop off the bolt from the part. And a little clean up.
I have used a product called Bondic. I got it online to join dissimilar materials where I couldn't get CA and other glues to work. It works well and is super strong. It can be used to fill holes, build parts, etc. It can be used to join wires instead of solder. It gives you an insulated joint.
The downside: It is very expensive compared to other glues and solder. There is not much glue in a Bondic tube. As has already been mentioned, you have to be able to expose the parts to UV light. Bondic comes with its own UV light source. NH Joe
@New Haven Joe posted:It can be used to join wires instead of solder. It gives you an insulated joint.
I'm confused by this statement. The fact that it doesn't conduct electricity means it's by no means a replacement for solder!
Thanks to all! This has been an interesting and informative thread,
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I'm confused by this statement. The fact that it doesn't conduct electricity means it's by no means a replacement for solder!
The Bondic video shows people using a western wire splice. The Bondic holds the splice together and insulates it at the same time. You don't have to use shrink tubing over the splice. You are right, the Bondic doesn't conduct electricity.
I would only use this method if I didn't have the tools to solder something together including the shrink tubing. NH Joe
Two places where this might be useful is windows in rolling stock and locomotives and headlight lenses. I currently use Canopy glue which works just fine so don’t personally see a need for further investment.
Pete
@New Haven Joe posted:The Bondic video shows people using a western wire splice. The Bondic holds the splice together and insulates it at the same time. You don't have to use shrink tubing over the splice. You are right, the Bondic doesn't conduct electricity.
I would only use this method if I didn't have the tools to solder something together including the shrink tubing. NH Joe
Truthfully, I think this is a really bad idea, I sure wouldn't do it. It's quite possible the glue permeates the joint and insulates between the wires. I can't imagine a scenario where I don't have the necessary tools to solder the joint, but I do have a UV glue handy. 
