Weak Remote Control FasTrack Switch Problem

I am not  sure where to go with this one.

It is recommended to supply 14v to the switches for AUX power. The 10v that you are supplying may just be too low for this one.

I would look for binding of the tie bar (swivel rail link) that move the points and spins the lantern. (rack in lantern parts) There's a small nub that connects it the lantern rack. It may be off.

Some, including me, use points of glue (Aileen's Tacky) to keep the lanterns on. Perhaps a little too much is preventing the lantern from rotating. Pull the lantern off and check operation and look around the base that sits in a formed bushing.

I put toothpick point amounts of synthetic grease on the contact/friction areas and on the thingy gear (segment gear). I don't think that's the problem here,

Every time I see the internals of a FasTrack switch I can't help but admire the rugged simplicity and the reliability of the classic postwar O-22 switches.  60+ years old, still functioning perfectly.

Since you have eliminated the switch motor and the electronics as the source of your problem you'll just have to keep looking for the source of the friction.  But, like Moonman said, you should definitely try upping the fixed voltage to Lionel's recommended 14 volts.  The solution might just be that simple.

Pete

I can't recall just where it was I saw this, perhaps a video on youTube, but there was an issue with some fast track switches when the signal lantern was placed on one side or the other.  If I recall, the solution was to use razor to cut off a nub of plastic that was causing a binding issue.  

I have no idea if this is your problem, but it might be worth removing the lantern extension to see if the problem goes away.  

JGL

I agree about the voltage. All my switch tracks are at 14-16v. Occasionally I have to take compressed air and blow out the moving parts. Did you check to see how freely it's moving by hand? I think checking the lantern is a good idea and see if there's any small debris blocking movement.

The "nub" was when you put the switch lantern on the outside (straight) of newer switches, they would lock up solid when you tightened the switch stand.

FWIW, I tried low voltage on seven O72 command switches here, all worked properly at 7VAC jumpered for running on track power.

I'll certainly increase the accessory voltage later today and hope that resolves the problem; however, I understand it may not be the answer, given that test at 7Vac.

I've not been able to identify friction problems in the moving parts of the switch. I did try a small bit of grease with no success. The lantern is not the cause, my video and all my tests were without a lantern cover in place, while the LED light shines brightly. Also, I did not find the extra plastic nub that was the cause jamming in Sean's Train Channel problem "FasTrack Switch Stand Jamming the Switch" at YouTube.com/watch?v=O9s7wTvwO0 .

Thanks for your suggests guys!

FYI: l have to add that problems with 3 out of 4 of the old O22 switches were the final straw that convinced me to join my "FasTracked" grandkids.

So I've been buying used FasTrack and FT remote switches at one-half to one-third the cost of new since June. Of course I had to buy some odd little new pieces from my local hobby shop. Ultimately, if I only have one non-functioning out of 8 used switches, then l live with it and the spare parts. LOL

I believe it can be "brought back" to life.  You've eliminated almost all the possibilities.

let's get the controller out of the picture. Disconnect it and jumper the out-gnd  and thru-gnd with a piece of wire momentarily and see what happens.

After looking at the video again at 0:13, when it stops the first time, I am wondering if the rail tab just under the segment gear is rubbing.

Check that and perhaps flatten it at the bend with a flat blade screwdriver and a light rap with something small. Another screwdriver handle?

The other thing that I notice is the position of the motor gear. I looks like it's binding.

Loosen the motor mount screws and see it you can get any play towards the center of the bracket or change the angle slightly. I don't recall if the mount fixes it or not.

Everything should be loose with the motor off of the segment gear when you move it with your finger. When I tuned my used switches, I only tightened the screws to snug.

I came across one that was well used and a point was dragging. There was no fixing that.

It must be the heater for the switch de-icer. get out the torch and melt the ice while your buddy repairs the heater, all with high drama. An Alaskan O gauge railroad...

You are binding up in the linkage.  I had a similar issue but mine would lock in place, and HARD.  I monkeyed with it as much as I could, but wound up sending it to Lionel for repair.  They had it back in a week, confirmed the bind in a tech note and it is as good as new.  

GRJ,

Can the resistor in the shrink wrap on the terminal to board hot wire be almost failed and reducing voltage?

I had one that was bad, no action at all, but I don't know if they are all or nothing. That's the other typical doesn't work failure of the earlier production.

Moonman posted:

It must be the heater for the switch de-icer. get out the torch and melt the ice while your buddy repairs the heater, all with high drama. An Alaskan O gauge railroad...

Ha ha! Moonman, this may be the solution in a normal Anchorage winter. However, this is the second year in a row that our relatively warm temps and the lack of much snow. reminds me more of where I grew up in Western Pennsylvania. The Lower 48 stealing our winter weather again!

Thank you all, I still don't have this switch working, but I will try your other suggestions tomorrow evening.

This past evening I worked on another problem, with the help of OGR Forum members. I was able to increased the accessory voltage output to 14 VAC to my switches. However, the higher voltage did not move the problem switch's mechanism any more than you see on my video.

GRJ pretty much confirmed that on the voltage needed to operate it. It's a mechanical issue somewhere.

ICYTRAINS,

    What Transformer are you powering your switches with, power the FT switches at min 15V, Lionel recommends 14V min operation, however I have noticed they work much better 15 & above, with track power set at 18V thru my DCS all my FTCC Switches work perfectly.  Further this FT Switch may have been bent just a little in shipment, causing this particular problem, some of these bent switches are a waste of time trying to fix, return the switch to where you bought it and get another one.

PCRR/Dave

Hi Dave, thanks for joining this discussion. To answer your question. I am using a CW80 transformer. I increased the output of the accessory side of the transformer to 14VAC. On my relatively small 8'x 8' layout my CW80 runs my 7 other FT switches nicely, as it also did at 10VAC. All of my Lionel Owners Manuals state the remote control FT switches operate best at 5 to 15 volts. Maybe your switches are Command Control or some other switches?

For All: regarding possible binding of moving parts. A test  I'll do this evening; I'll remove all moving parts, except the pie-shaped gear and its spring. I am aware screwing down the gear and the little motor too tight can cause too much friction. 

I appreciate all of the interest and suggestions from my fellow OGR members.

No Binding, just a weak switch motor! I am considering keeping the switch for parts, or sending it off to Lionel or other repair shops.  

I unencumbered the motor by removing all parts, except the "pie-shaped" gear; and I tried a couple test exchanging that gear with a good functioning switch. I used accessory power (14 VAC), and videoed them. The first video is the weak switch, only enough "Umph" to move the gear half-way. There were no surprises when I used various tightness for the screws holding the motor in place (too tight binds motor, too loose the motor misses the "pie-shape" gear. After I exchanged the "pie-shaped" gear, there was no improvement in the performance of the weak motor switch. 

The second video is a good functioning switch, it easily snaps, and the complete rotation. Following is a short video of the good functioning switch, also unencumbered, and with the "pie-shaped" gear from the weak switch.

SOUND TEST: I don't have something like a tachometer to compare the two motors, so I loosened each motor from the switch and recorded their sounds with my smartphone. The weak motor is louder and changes pitch.

SMOOTH TEST: When the motors were loosen from the switch I rotated the pinon gear with my fingers. The weak motor feels rough, while the good motor feels smooth.

In my first Post I above I ruled out the motor, I am not sure why this weak motor work well in another switch, and now has performed differently.

Rather than risk impacting another switch motor, I am going to consider sending this switch off for repairs. If I send this weak switch out for repairs, what other shops shall I consider in addition to Lionel?

Thank you all!

The two screws that hold the motor in place, on the rectangular molded bracket, directly above the motor. Loosen those two screws a quarter turn. Run the switch at 12-14VAC and repeat your test. Also loosen the screw on the fulcrum of the black cam a 1/4 turn. 

Thanks,

Mike

Since you state the motor feels different than other switches, why not eliminate that as a cause, invest $6 in a new motor?  There's not that much that moves in those switches to cause what you see.  Without the motor installed, does the switch track move smoothly?

Mikado posted:

The two screws that hold the motor in place, on the rectangular molded bracket, directly above the motor. Loosen those two screws a quarter turn. Run the switch at 12-14VAC and repeat your test. Also loosen the screw on the fulcrum of the black cam a 1/4 turn. 

Thanks,

Mike

Mike, I have varied the those screws without any more success than you see in my recent video. However, I was not as systematic with 1/4 turns. That is worth a try, thanks. Also, thanks for clarifying the part is moved is a cam, I was getting tried of calling it "pie-shaped" gear.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Since you state the motor feels different than other switches, why not eliminate that as a cause, invest $6 in a new motor?  There's not that much that moves in those switches to cause what you see.  Without the motor installed, does the switch track move smoothly?

John, I just called my hobby shop, only the owner knows on Lionel parts and he'll be back on Monday. I reinstalled the bottom cover last night; when I reopen this switch to systematically adjust the screws, per Mike's suggestion, then it'll great to do so with a new motor in hand. One way or the other, well get this switch working.

Thanks!

Just give him that part number above, that's the motor you need.

Unfortunately, the replacement motor did not solve the problem. After installing the new motor, the FasTrack Switch did not preform any different than the original as shown in my video (IMG_5223/MOV) 6 posts up. I'm disappointed, but surely there could be other part changes I can try.

Sorry it took a year for me to follow up, but I needed a lot of practice soldering. Replacing this motor with the tiniest connector was the most precise soldering I've done. Finally I finished it yesterday, this was after I observed quite a few of small soldering by our MSMRRE club members work on their HO & N trains.

IcyTrains posted:

Unfortunately, the replacement motor did not solve the problem. After installing the new motor, the FasTrack Switch did not preform any different than the original as shown in my video (IMG_5223/MOV) 6 posts up. I'm disappointed, but surely there could be other part changes I can try.

Sorry it took a year for me to follow up, but I needed a lot of practice soldering. Replacing this motor with the tiniest connector was the most precise soldering I've done. Finally I finished it yesterday, this was after I observed quite a few of small soldering by our MSMRRE club members work on their HO & N trains.

Hey Gene,

How are you? Good to hear from you. No worries, train stuff happens when it happens.

One binding point is the motor mount. Look at the angle of the motor in you good switching video in reference to the edge of the top mounting frame. The screw only need to snugged. Try loosening those about a half rotation at a time and check.

I would also try using only a jumper wire with the switch controller disconnected. Two bare ends of a piece of solid between thru+gnd and out+gnd. A quick touch is all that is needed.

I would remove the segment gear and put a little grease or oil under it and snug that also. It does not need to be ultra tight.