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It's absolutely new for me! after looking at some videos to see how people made, I have tried to do something, me too! why not? I wondered first what could be the result and the first car I bought has been choosen for a test. After weathered, other cars have followed the same way and I wanted to share with you this experiment; hope you will like! here are some pics of my work:

jpv69, from the other side of the pond!

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Thanks all for your comments!

ATLAYANK and TAT2D1------> The technique I used is certainly not the best but it suits to me: first the body: coat of matte varnish; let it dry then acrylic paint (mix of black, white and brown - all matte), but on the varnish I have found, the acrylic paint don't grip on; so I have to brush many times before the coat of paint was effective; then powders (mix of rust, brown, grey, as you want your model to become); for me I don't want the cars too rusty or dirty; second, the wheels: humbrol grey inside the wheels, then powders brown, same thing than the body, it's your idea first; third, the trucks: mix of humbrol black and brown, then rusty powder but not too much (for me). I will try for the next boxcar to varnish it and direcly apply the powders (just for the body); I will see the result and show you.

Some wheathered cars; I have to work on 15 other boxcars and hoppers!.....

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JPV69, nice work...and welcome to the world of weathering!  I've been following this thread since you posted it, and I'm enjoying seeing your creations.  It looks like you're learning quickly.

I started into weathering a couple years ago and have been having a blast learning/trying new techniques.  There's no turning back now!

If I can share one tip that l've learned through research/observation, the wheel faces on friction bearing trucks typically aren't rust colored.  Instead they tend to be a blackish/grimy gray color due to all the grease that gets sloshed about from the journal boxes, and the dirt and grime that sticks to the grease.

On the other hand, wheel faces on roller bearing trucks tend to be rust colored due to the lack of journal boxes and the grease associated with them.

Keep up the great work, and please keep posting photos!

Last edited by CNJ #1601

Many thanks Joe and you guys who pushed on the "like" button!

I know, Joe, I have not yet found the real colour for the wheels; it's not easy but I will try another way on the next boxcar I'm weathering; I look here in France at some freight cars and their wheels seem to be more rusty than grey/black or perhaps a mix of all.... !!!

Result with the next car!

 

You're welcome.  Same here in the U.S. as far as wheels go.  Practically all freight cars are equipped with modern, roller bearing trucks and therefore have the rusty-looking wheel faces.  In fact, it's a requirement for cars in interchange service to have RB trucks...so lots of rusty wheels!

It's the older cars, like SOME of the ones you have weathered, that would have had the friction bearing trucks, and the greasy black/gray wheel faces.

FWIW, I mix up my own custom blend of acrylic paints to represent this color.  I start with black semi-gloss (to give it a little bit of "greasy shine"), and then add some Grimy Black (which looks like a dark gray) and just a touch of dark brown.  

Then, when I'm actually painting the wheel faces, I dip the brush in black weathering powder and mix it in with the paint.  This step adds texture, giving the appearance of caked on dirt/grime in the "grease".

Keep up the great work!

Ah, ok, two kinds of roller bearing; I didn't know! it's the same thing here in France (and Europe) we call that "boîte à tampons" for the oldest cars and "boîte à rouleaux" for the modern ones. But now, all the cars have "boîtes à rouleaux"; "tampon" is a kind of pad with grease for the end of the axle (simplified explanation!).

As I have not a complete knowledge of your language, what is "FWIW"? Sorry!

See you soon

jpv69

Thanks for sharing your bravo attempts at making cars look real. One just doesn't see all new paints on trains and to have a line of cars in different dirty conditions is a great appeal to me and others in enjoying others models. After a while you get the dirty down then you, like me, be willing to put it on a $300- 500 model. Oh yah. Sometimes one can find used shells to play with. 

Thanks Phill for your comments; it's more realist than new in box! and that's why I tried to do this work and I'm happy you like it! 

---->WB47: the varnish is made for the paint to grip on the plastic body; but it's not very effective! certainly because I have to dilute a lot the acrylic paint; but if I don't do that the paint is too thick and masks all! so....I have now the habit of doing like that; it's longer to give more coats of paint but pay attention that the paint begins to grip in just one time and dries very quickly, it shows! so stop at once! and wait for complete dry if you want to weather more. To weather less, it's too late!!! 

Hope it helps

See you soon

jpv from France

 

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