Instructions: C-D-S Dry transfers.
1. Make sure that the surface to be lettered is dry and free from grease. For best results on new paint, wait at least 48 hours before lettering.
2. Place lettering in exact position and hold in place with fingers, or masking tape, if necessary.
3, Using a soft pencil, ball-point pen or a hardwood burnisher, rub lightly over area to be transferred to tentatively fix the lettering, then go over each letter or word individually to fix them in place. Careful-- too much pressure may distort the lettering. (You are using a round, edge free, tool to apply pressure).
4. After transferring all the lettering, place the backing sheet over the lettering, and burnish firmly to permanently fix it in place.
5. When lettering over rivets, etc., gently work the letters around the protrusion. If necessary, touch up any broken letters with paint of the correct shade.
6. When applying two, or three colors separately, such as heralds, spray, or brush a light coat of Testor's Dullcoat, or some other matte varnish, over the first color before applying the second, making sure it is completely dry, and over the second layer before applying the third color.
7. When all lettering is complete, it may be protected by spraying or brushing a light coat of Testor's Dullcoat, Walther's DDV, or similar product. This final coat may be either, gloss, or dull depending on, whether you desire your cars to look "as new", or slightly weathered. If you wish, heavier weathering may now be applied.
IMO, I had good luck with this procedure, finding the dry transfers, and applying them, 10 years ago. Both decals and dry transfers may be a bit more difficult, today. IMO. Best wishes, Mike CT.