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Chris, I thought cabooses ought to be red, but I really like this blue one.

Last weekend I found a BUB clockwork train-set in its scruffy box. BUB started to make S gauge trains (clockwork and electric) in around 1948 and gave up by lack of succes around 1958. The electric trains (except for pick-up wheels) had plastic wheels; the clockwork trains and track were completely tinplate.

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Regards

Fred

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"Big Alice the Goon" 

   An interesting case of mis-identification - American Flyer's #9915.

   In 1935 Flyer introduced #9915, a cast aluminum superstructure engine/tender combination which could be purchased separately or in combination with either a freight or passenger set.  The engine/tender is, to say the least, odd looking.

AF9915

  American Flyer #9915

  It was produced in 1935 only.  

Over the years toy train and model train enthusiasts in general have come to calling this engine the "Aeolus" (pronounced ee'-o-lus) - The Keeper of the Winds - because of a general resemblance to the CB&Q engine of the same name.  

Aeolus

 CB&Q Aeolus

 Indeed there are some who maintain that the CB&Q engine was the inspiration for American Flyer's #9915.  However, this isn't the case.  Flyer introduced #9915 in 1935 and the debut of Aeolus on the CB&Q didn't occur until 1937.

  The name for the CB&Q engine was the result of a naming contest run by the railroad. Mrs. Goldie Murray's name was the winning entry. The home built engine was "The World's First Stainless Steel Streamline Steam Locomotive" according to the CB&Q. It was used on conventional passenger trains as well as backup power for the diesel Zephyrs.

  The name "Aeolus" was quickly corrupted to "Alice" by shop wags and the railroaders took to calling the engine "Big Alice the Goon" -a nickname derived from a character in the contemporary "Popeye" cartoons.

   The 1935 catalog text clearly states what American Flyer was really trying to do with #9915  - sell a generic streamlined steam engine that would sort of resemble a number of the streamlined steam engines on the real 1935 railroads and hopefully satisfy customers interested in having something representing the likes of the Commodore Vanderbilt or the Milwaukee Hiawatha.

   In particular the catalog states "Either the passenger or freight trains shown on this page should be of particular interest to you as they represent the challenge of the streamline steam driven engine against the new diesel electric motored units. In addition to the New York Central, the Milwaukee Railroad and the Baltimore and Ohio railroad have produced locomotives of this character."

Catalog_1935

  As we know now, the idea of a generic streamlined steam engine did not go over well and the engine was a commercial failure... still, the passenger train is eye catching and the brass highlighted cadmium plated passenger consist does have a visual presence that many fans of the world of toy trains find fascinating.  

1935_AF_Set_1324_RCT

Set RCT-1324

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Last edited by Robert S. Butler

The french brand AS, not to be confused with british ACE, has produced some lovely steam engine models of the french railways, unfortunately it has been a short time production and in low numbers, around a hundred for each models, sometime even less. Not very sought after in the 90's it is totally different now...

The french Consolidation, 140 C

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The Pacific K8, the original one is still running today,

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A classic locotender, a common model in Europe, less in USA. The 040 TA

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And a rare variation in black with an open cab of the 040 TA, a switcher loco.

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Have a great tinplate weekend,   Daniel

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CP BOB posted:

Hi Jim,   very nice layout! What did you use for your roadbed?

Thanks, 

Bob

The roadbed is Flexxbed STD 746322 3/8 inch by Hobby Innovations (hobbyinnovations.com). I placed the track into final position and made a tool that traced a pair of lines 2-1/4” from the centerline of the track.  I used multi radius USA track which was fantastic.

I removed the track, applied hot glue inside the marking lines and placed the roadbed into position one 35” section at a  time,  I learned quickly to butt join the next section with hot glue first and let it cool before proceeding to avoid any gaps from developing.  I hand cut the switch areas.

i used some spackling compound in a few spots, sanded the surface and spray painted all the roadbed with Rustoleum Inspire Gray Sandstone paint.

The picture shows the raw product next to  the final installation. It is very quiet and looks great.

Jim Zimage

 

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Last edited by Jim Z
Jim Z posted:
CP BOB posted:

Hi Jim,   very nice layout! What did you use for your roadbed?

Thanks, 

Bob

The roadbed is Flexxbed STD 746322 3/8 inch by Hobby Innovations (hobbyinnovations.com). I placed the track into final position and made a tool that traced a pair of lines 2-1/4” from the centerline of the track.  I used multi radius USA track which was fantastic.

I removed the track, applied hot glue inside the marking lines and placed the roadbed into position one 35” section at a  time,  I learned quickly to butt join the next section with hot glue first and let it cool before proceeding to avoid any gaps from developing.  I hand cut the switch areas.

i used some spackling compound in a few spots, sanded the surface and spray painted all the roadbed with Rustoleum Inspire Gray Sandstone paint.

The picture shows the raw product next to  the final installation. It is very quiet and looks great.

Jim Zimage

 

Jim... I always like looking at your layout photos and videos as they’ve given me some ideas for my layout planning.  Do you have a plan handy?

Pre-War Steve posted:
Jim Z posted:
CP BOB posted:

Hi Jim,   very nice layout! What did you use for your roadbed?

Thanks, 

Bob

The roadbed is Flexxbed STD 746322 3/8 inch by Hobby Innovations (hobbyinnovations.com). I placed the track into final position and made a tool that traced a pair of lines 2-1/4” from the centerline of the track.  I used multi radius USA track which was fantastic.

I removed the track, applied hot glue inside the marking lines and placed the roadbed into position one 35” section at a  time,  I learned quickly to butt join the next section with hot glue first and let it cool before proceeding to avoid any gaps from developing.  I hand cut the switch areas.

i used some spackling compound in a few spots, sanded the surface and spray painted all the roadbed with Rustoleum Inspire Gray Sandstone paint.

The picture shows the raw product next to  the final installation. It is very quiet and looks great.

Jim Zimage

 

Jim... I always like looking at your layout photos and videos as they’ve given me some ideas for my layout planning.  Do you have a plan handy?

I have attached two drawings. One shows the initial plan with two levels on a 8x12 table.  The single level plan is what I actually built. After laying out the track I realized I didn’t want to deal with derailments and track maintenance in a long hidden section. Hence, I nixed the upper level which would have been at 36”. The layout height is 24 inches based on the initial plan. This is contrary to everything published on layout height.  I actually like this height. The grand67DBCF9A-0C45-480D-B315-C73C6C6B438FF27D4F9E-6367-4BFC-8CAA-D2453E945A19 kids can see and open car doors etc.  I can reach the middle of the layout.

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Last edited by Jim Z
Dennis Holler posted:IMG_3237Had some JEP cars show up today. Actually got these with a few Lionel cars for $10.  Had to remove that silver paint overspray from the tank car but it came off and the lettering stayed on!

 

Hate to be the one to break it to you Dennis but you may have been taken......I'll stop by later and give you your $10 back......don't feel bad, you'll catch on to this whole old train thing......

I spent the day working on this.

IMG_2060IMG_2067

As usual, I ran into some problems. I am not sure I recommend this method... The ribbing on the 3208 tin doesn't make it easy to wrap the car. Also, my method for the door, did not come out as I had hoped. 

Finally, has anyone dismantled an American Flyer 3208? Four of the tabs to the shell on this one were welded to the frame. That made disassembly very difficult and also made it tough to reassemble.

George 

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