What connection method do you use with the 5-Way Binding Post ? What is the best one you have found ?

I finally found some good banana plugs at Digi-Key and have been using them, The spade lug or fork would take up less space than the banana plugs. Before finding good banana plugs, I was going to use good quality audio spade/fork connectors.

My only reservation with the spades is that many people don't use the proper crimping tools with crimp connectors resulting in a poor connection. They are fine as long as they are properly crimped and you have a good tight connection.

I also use spade connectors.  I'm not a fan of banana plugs.  rtr12 is correct that the crimping must be carefully done.  Also, the post must be checked occasionally; they seem to loosen wityh age.

Also be aware that the post can become loose in the tIU, causing the TIU to overheat.

Thanks for your reply rtr112. 

Do you have a specific p/n, model for the "good banana" plugs that you found at Digi-Key ?  They have more than one model from what I have seen on their website.

Thanks again,

Daniel

Yes, they were Digi-Key part 461-1214-ND at $3.09 per pair made by E-Z Hook. Another very nice Digi-Key feature is keeping track of the parts you ordered, very easy to find them again when you need more, or want to give someone a part number. 

You should consider Loctite Threadlocker 242; it's widely used on Harleys--notorious for their vibration--where fasteners need to be secure, but also removed from time to time.

I have no personal experience using it for model trains; plenty of experience on my Harley--worked great--tight enough to secure the fastener, but not so tight that it was difficult to remove the fastener when necessary.

I'd be wary of thread lock compound.  If it is dielectric, you'll have conductivity promlems. Use the wrong kind, and you'll never get it off.  

My issue with bana plugs is that often make only a point contact.

Exactly why I was going to switch to the spade forks until I tried the ones I linked above. They seem to make good contact all the way around and won't loosen up or pull out like all the others I tried before that.

I still may try some of the forks, but haven't yet found any of those that ring my quality/price bell. I really quit looking after finding the banana plugs, but I still look around when I am sitting here goofing off like I am doing now. 

When i use spades or lugs i always crimp and solder them. I know it's over kill but i have never had a problem with loose connections using this method. Just an old school mechanics 2 cents worth.

Daniel,

    I have found some hi quality, Male Stackable Gold Plated Banana plugs, with large holes in them that hold lots of different electric wire, these stackable male Banana plugs then get plugged into all the female Banana plugs on my TIU.  I run both DCS & Legacy in this manner.  My Terminal Blocks are set up in the same manner, works perfectly and is simple to set up.

PCRR/Dave

feet, it's not overkill.  A marine aiconditioning comany told me a big problem is when installers don't properly crimp, with the result that the connectors heat and fail.

Exactly on this one too, RJR. These can also be a nightmare to troubleshoot. Even worse when someone else did the installation. These can also cause intermittent problems that you may spend days, weeks, or maybe longer trying to find. Crimp butt splices in the middle of a long wire run are the absolute worst. This is the reason I don't like crimp connectors. I sometimes had to find these things in my working life and it left a lasting impression. Can also cause pre-mature hair loss and head imprints in near by walls.  

Crimp connects are just fine when properly done, Makes a nice neat job. Soldering would definitely assure that there was good contact, but difficult to do with insulated connectors, especially insulated butt connectors.

Crimp butt splices in the middle of a long wire run are the absolute worst.

Agree.  I also hate coming upon these in a marine environment, where salt can get inside.

I was out in your neck of the woods last week.  My son lives down off College Ave near K7.

That is very close, probably within a mile or two. I live just west of K7 and north of Prairie Star Pkwy a few blocks each way.

I used spade lugs for years with # 12 wire and I never have a loose connection problem, they work great of course you have to use the proper crimping tool

For spade or banana plug connections, proper soldering is suggested. I have found soldering AFTER making good electrical crimping to be almost bullet proof.

90º plugs I assume? Neat

 90º bananas, or wire through the hole would be my suggestion for a 5-way.

 If you move wires a lot (tests), its banana plugs for sure.

 With spade connectors its rather easy to bump one, and loosen the finger tight screw connection. Vibration can do it too.

 The hole method isn't affected by the sideways pressure of the screws action like wrapping, and spades are.

   The clamping is plenty strong enough and is applied to the wire. The lowest amount of breaks/splices possible in wire runs is a good plan.(Pressure has a big effect on conductivity and resistance too)

Tinning the wires tips will keep wire "together" longer.

(I like clamping un-tinned part for better contact)

Ill put it in order.

1. Wire in the hole. tip tinned, a bonus.
2. Bananas, quick and easy to move. so watch out for minions.
3. Spade, if it was a stud connector that'd be my choice.
4.  The wrap, this happens first most of the time. I don't often add connectors before its been wrapped on a while. A rerouting, a trim to length, and a connector are finishing touches. After tests.
5. A clamp?, "Hey, thanks. I can use that for the ohm meter, now where's a spade"

Other than to hold the wire while (or till) I solder I hadn't thought about doing both much. A bent cylinder would hold better than a straight one.

 I very seldom would crimp on solid wire. I like solder for that.

I would wrap solid wire on a post first and last. It is the right wire for post connections.

I like the method 3 .. looped around and tightened.  With 14 gauge stranded  wire I strip  off at least an inch (maybe a little more) and tin the wire. Loop the wire over and close the loop with needle nose pliers, then tighten with locking nut. To tell you the truth I find the 5 way thing a bit of a pain.

Thanks for your reply PCRR/Dave. 

Do you have a specific p/n, model for the "Male Stackable Gold Plated Banana plugs" that you found ?  Those seems to be really interesting to use for some applications.  Any reference to a supplier or on-line store would be appreciated.

Thanks again,

Daniel

Thanks for the answer Churu. 

I personally use a "ratchet-type Crimping tool" and never got any bad surprise since I got it.  Unless the wire is not inserted properly or the size is not the right one (yellow, bleu, red), you can`t go wrong with that tool.

I have never put soldering on top of the crimping, but that could not hurt (I guess).

Good Banana Plugs for temporary use, and Good Spade Lugs for permanent use I what I am looking for. 

If you do have a specific p/n, model or supplier to share for the "spade lugs.. with #12" that you use, that would be appreciated.

Thanks

Daniel