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Pasche single action, not sure  if that is VL or not.    The double action is much harder to learn to use, although users say more accurate when mastered.

I have had my Pasche single action for more than 30 years and still use it.   You can buy all sorts of replacement parts.   The tips do wear down eventually.   My original tip is now a large hole job (relatively) and still used for big jobs.

prrjim posted:

Pasche single action, not sure  if that is VL or not.    The double action is much harder to learn to use, although users say more accurate when mastered.

I have had my Pasche single action for more than 30 years and still use it.   You can buy all sorts of replacement parts.   The tips do wear down eventually.   My original tip is now a large hole job (relatively) and still used for big jobs.

The VL is the double action, the model H is the single action. For a first timer I would also recommend a single action. My model H is over 40 years old. I also have two double action brushes but most of the time I fall back on old reliable. A double action will produce slightly finer lines but a model H with a #1 tip will get close. A single action is as easy to use as a spray can but gives much better results.

Pete

 

I use a Paasche Model H. Single action. Easy to use/easy to clean. I use it for weathering right now, but will eventually shoot a paint job with it when I get around to a couple of locomotive projects. Get the "kit" that comes with the hose, fittings and jars in a nice package. You're going to spend quite a bit more on the compressor than the airbrush. I picked one up at Coast Airbrush in Anahiem (where I also got the airbrush) that has a moisture trap and pressure regulator for about $150. Check eBay to see if you can track down a large Paasche spray booth. It's big enough to spray a modern six-axle diesel and medium steam (you're not getting a Big Boy in there).

Just starting?? Go to Harbor Freight and get a single action for $15, double action for $20... $5 less with coupon. At that price they are disposable if you decide airbrushing isn't for you. I've used them both, with great results. The seals don't last forever but at that price, you can afford to learn.

I've used Badger, Pasche, Harbor Freight, Testors, Aztex, Master, Iwata, and a few others I can't remember the names of. They are all good.

I use only double action now, and size of the tip/needle made a big difference depending on what kind of paint you are spraying.

There are thousands of videos on YouTube with every possible tip in the book, and then some.

 This is a very usefull tool for our hobby that really comes down to personal preference.

Last edited by Laidoffsick

Love my Double action Paasche Air brush- only complaint is  - its a bear to clean and tough to spray acrylic paints with it. The Badger single action was so much easier use!

Get yourself a good water trap, compressor, regulator, and tank. Plus lots of extra paint bottles.

Practice with some India ink...

Have fun!

ts-set

 

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  • ts-set
hrspla posted:

Will the Badger model 200 or the  Pasche model H spray  acrylic paints? The kind you buy at walmart for $.79 a bottle.  What if I water them down.

You can try.  I've used a lot of Polyscale acrylics, now (Model Master).  But even the better acrylics, Badger being one of them, seem to have a shelf life and can be problematic.  There are acrylic thinners, and acrylic cleaners that I found useful.  The Badger 150, that I use has three different needle/tips, small, medium and large.  With acrylics, I was never able to use the small.   I seem to use the medium tip the most. 

Testors acrylics at the moment seem to be under the name of Model Master.  Note the Polyscale thinner and Badger Modelflex Cleaner.    

Last edited by Mike CT

Hrspla,  I use these two brushes.  Paasche H on the left and the Paasche Talon double action on right. The H is over 40 years old and still used for 80% of my painting.  The Talon works nice for very small detail and has the gravity paint feed bowl which works well for me to build up very thin layers.  The Wallyworld paints are thick and I have not had any luck thinning them and making them run through the airbrush properly.  I used floquil paints for years, (in a spray booth), and then switched to properly thinned Polyscale while it was still made.  I now use Vallejo acrylics.

Paasche H Single ActionPaasche Talon Double Action

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  • Paasche H Single Action
  • Paasche Talon Double Action

This is what I use, Binks WREN • Air Brush Model 59-10001 "B"

Binks WREN Air Brush Model 59-10001 A

I have had this air brush for about 30 years.  I have three different sizes, All Binks. I would suggest. Go to The Dick Blicks, web page and see what they have. They also have Three, How Too Videos about air brushes and procedures.  "Free" on their web page. 

http://www.dickblick.com/   Dick Blick is the nations largest supplier of art supplies, they have several kits, that will have every thing you would need.  

Also go to You Tube's Search Engine and look for videos about Air Brushes & procedures. 

Good Luck - Gary

 

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  • Binks WREN Air Brush Model 59-10001 A

Paasche single action, easy maintenance and good starting airbrush. Have this airbrush from the mid-1990's, you should also invest in a quality compressor, moisture trap,air regulator and face respirator with cartridges for the paint being sprayed.

Follow the advice of the previous posting responses, there is valuable information that will assist you on your choice. Their are differences between a single and dual action airbrushes and air brushing techniques, the single action is the logical starting airbrush, airbrushing is a learned skill as is soldering, not difficult only requires time for practice and patience.

Overtime you may also consider the purchase on a well lite power vented paint booth for venting outside, also if airbrushing indoors especially in the basements with the furnace/hot water tank check your air circulation exchange for vapor buildup from solvent based paints and flammability specifications.   

Last edited by John Ochab

Matt I've used Tru-Color paint several times recently. One being the Santa Fe caboose. You really need to use their thinner to slow down the drying process, and it's expensive. Acetone works great for clean up, but not for spraying. I thinned it quite a bit, as there was no way that was going to spray well right out of the bottle.

I like the paint, but it took some getting used to. I think I was using 32-36 psi and started with a 50/50 mixture and even went thinner. The 2nd caboose I went back to Scale Coat II because I have a ton of it, and I use standard paint thinner to thin it. $15 a gallon vs 4 times that for TruColor thinner.

Even brush painting detail parts with TruColor is a chore. That paint dries super fast so you have to constantly clean the brush and stir the paint. I'm pretty sure I'm sticky with ScaleCoat II..... again!

Last edited by Laidoffsick

You definitely want to use an oil/moisture trap with any piston compressor. As for painting foam you could either first brush on latex paint as a barrier or start out using an acrylic. Solvent paints can melt the foam, though Tru Color thinned with acetone would dry fast enough to not melt the foam. 

Regarding Harbor Freight airbrushes I have their single actiion and the design is like a Paasche H. I use it for scenery and latex paint. The main problem with it is it only has one tip size so its not very versatile. I got mine with a coupon for about 6 bucks. Don't scoff, it works.

Pete

 

Last edited by Norton
Laidoffsick posted:

Matt I've used Tru-Color paint several times recently. One being the Santa Fe caboose. You really need to use their thinner to slow down the drying process, and it's expensive. Acetone works great for clean up, but not for spraying. I thinned it quite a bit, as there was no way that was going to spray well right out of the bottle.

I like the paint, but it took some getting used to. I think I was using 32-36 psi and started with a 50/50 mixture and even went thinner. The 2nd caboose I went back to Scale Coat II because I have a ton of it, and I use standard paint thinner to thin it. $15 a gallon vs 4 times that for TruColor thinner.

Even brush painting detail parts with TruColor is a chore. That paint dries super fast so you have to constantly clean the brush and stir the paint. I'm pretty sure I'm sticky with ScaleCoat II..... again!

Thanks. That's exactly what I needed. Look like it's Scale Coat/Scale Coat II for me.

Laidoffsick posted:

Just starting?? Go to Harbor Freight and get a single action for $15, double action for $20... $5 less with coupon. At that price they are disposable if you decide airbrushing isn't for you. I've used them both, with great results. The seals don't last forever but at that price, you can afford to learn.

Second.  Get used to all this how airbrushing stuff works before spending much money.  Airbrushes don't paint like larger paint spraying equipment as the paint usually dries too fast to get good smooth coverage over larger areas like the sides or the boiler of a locomotive without a bit of learning.

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