WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

@coach joe posted:

That's some nice work John.  You say commissioned by the RRMLI, I see 6 of each, if that's the entire production run would you know the intended use for these cars, displays, extremely limited edition sale, fund raising raffle, special gifts?

Thanks coach

6 of each is the current run. They may order another run of 6 in the future, I don't think more than that

Their plan is to sell them to help fund the museum. The grey Crew cars are on their website, the blue tool cars should me up there this week.

@Lionelski posted:

Much thanks!

I just finished the bridge - check out my latest blog entry on www.warrenvillerailroad.com to follow along with the restoration.

Fo some reason, if I post a direct link to this article it will not work.

Here is a tease pic of the finished project;

Excellent work!

With a number of incomplete projects on the "workbench" why would I start another one?  I wish I could answer that question but I just couldn't help myself.  A while back I picked up this Lionel Alaska bunk car to add to my Alaska work train.  Thinking of a work camp out in the bush I added another bunk car and started thinking of making one a mess hall/canteen/ chuck wagon, whatever you'd like to call the kitchen and dining facilities for the camp.  I wanted to add a Lionel tool car to vary the look of the cars.

I came across this 1989 LRRC Tool Car and figured I could lose the LRRC graphics and re-letter for the ARR.

To make getting rid of  the LIONEL easier I removed the roof.  I expected the "windows to be part of the roof like the "Madison" passenger cars.  Once I saw that the windows were I separate piece I started thinking of replacing the opaque plastic insert with individual clear windows and detailing the interior.

Here's the clean canvas waiting for Alaska Railroad decals.  I have a set of Walthers HO Alaska boxcar decals that will provide the lettering and even have a set of repro 614 "decals" with the Eskimo that I bought a long time ago so I thought I was set.  The quotation marks are because that set of decals is actually clear stickers, which would work fine on the flat surface of a diesel switcher but wouldn't really work so good on the wood sides of a tool car.  I've got enough Alaska RR decals that while I don't have any other Eskimos I'll be able to find an appropriate logo to take the Eskimo's place.

My conundrum is now the rabbit hole that detailing the interior has become.  I have the window material and some 3D benches and tables and even some kitchen appliances but it doesn't end there.  It needs a floor, foam core is too thick, I've already tried it so now to find the right material to fit around that knob in the middle of the car to level the floor and add floor boards.  Oh, did I mention the car is not lighted so all the wonderful detailing would go unseen.  Okay lets add lights, buy some pick-ups, wire them up, my soldering skills aren't the best and I've botched replacing a caboose light socket in the past because of them but what the hey maybe I can get past that.  I have a roll of LEDs that I could use for lights, but I'm not sure what I need to run them off of track power.  I could always ask over on the electrical forum and I'm sure I'll get that answer but then I need to get those components and add them.  Then there's the access hole to bring the wire from the pick-up into the car.  Notice I said hole not holes so if I use double pick-ups for better connectivity and les flickering I'm running wires under the car and that hole is located very near one of the windows so now hiding the wires and not disrupting the interior details is another issue.  Then there's always the battery operated option for the LEDs, a 9 volt, a bracket and a micro switch.  I believe I've both a bracket and a switch around here somewhere.

None of this is truly that difficult and with patience and assistance from the wonderful people here on the forum I'm sure I can get the answers I need and probably even suggestions on how to do it better and where to get the parts and supplies I need to get this done.  I'm just not sure if I want to go through all that right now.  Then what about the two bunk cars?

Coach, looks like a great project! I cant wait till I get to that point for my next layout. But as things are going very slowly here it might be next summer before I can even lay track! I hope not and that things change soon!

That’s definitely a rabbit hole Coach but just envision the unique consist and the out in brush scene.

Joe, That's a nice project you are working on.  Yes, it seems that one thing leads to another on all our projects.  I'm sure it will be a nice car when done.

Former amtrak metroliner repurposed as a new jersey transit cab car.  Original post eaten by the electronic gremlins

Took a break from track laying to work on , yet another, incomplete project, the ubiquitous Lionel feed mill.  This one received gray paint like the ones I saw in SD and just got some glued-in window glass. Some appropriate lighting is in transit as well.  Other details will be added to hopefully make it not just another plastic feed mill. 🤔

Rich in WV

Installing Lionchief in some RMT Beefs. B unit and Trailing A are powered. Considering Kadees to close the gaps but just not now. Still fine tuning. The B unit has a bit of a hitch in its gitalong I am trying to sort out.

Pete

@Norton posted:

Installing Lionchief in some RMT Beefs. B unit and Trailing A are powered. Considering Kadees to close the gaps but just not now. Still fine tuning. The B unit has a bit of a hitch in its gitalong I am trying to sort out.

Pete

Well, now. Who wouldn't love those? I've never done any Lionchief upgrades - in fact, I've seldom even been around Lionchief.

The close-coupling Kadees would be a nice touch.

@D500 posted:

Well, now. Who wouldn't love those? I've never done any Lionchief upgrades - in fact, I've seldom even been around Lionchief.

The close-coupling Kadees would be a nice touch.

D, Lionchief is currently the least expensive upgrade path to Command Control. A Universal Remote will operate all generations of Lionchief. Currently only basic Lionchief is suitable for upgrading as Lionchief Plus and Lionchief Plus 2 require motors with tach sensors. Basic Lionchief does not. Current base Lionchief will control couplers and smoke. Chuff requires a tach sensor so problematic for steam upgrades.

Pete

@Norton posted:

D, Lionchief is currently the least expensive upgrade path to Command Control. A Universal Remote will operate all generations of Lionchief. Currently only basic Lionchief is suitable for upgrading as Lionchief Plus and Lionchief Plus 2 require motors with tach sensors. Basic Lionchief does not. Current base Lionchief will control couplers and smoke. Chuff requires a tach sensor so problematic for steam upgrades.

Pete

I didn't know you could buy Lionchief upgrade kits. Where do you purchase them? I have some Williams diesel engines I'd love to upgrade.

@pault posted:

I didn't know you could buy Lionchief upgrade kits. Where do you purchase them? I have some Williams diesel engines I'd love to upgrade.

No kits but you can get the boards from Lionel. You have to supply the speaker and make the wire harnesses but easy if you have the required JST connectors. 2.54mm EH, 2mm PH and 1.5mm ZH.

Most can be had at Amazon.

Both A units are powered. If you want to run any two engines together they must have the same board part number in them. A dedicated or Universal remote will run both together. Neither the LC nor Cab3 app will run two identical engines.

Pete

Very nice Pete.  If you add the Kadees to the Beeps what minimum diameter curve do you think will be required?

@pault posted:

I didn't know you could buy Lionchief upgrade kits. Where do you purchase them? I have some Williams diesel engines I'd love to upgrade.

Paul- I put a Lionchief/bluetooth board in a Weaver RS-3. The added benefit is either universal remote or LC app control with a smartphone. I'm planing to do more. As Pete said, it's the most cost effective option to upgrade conventional engines.

I started by searching Lionel's site for an appropriate matching engine for the upgrade (if available) from their Lionchief line. I just added the necessary speaker. No electro-couplers with these boards but not a big deal to me.

@Norton posted:

Installing Lionchief in some RMT Beefs. B unit and Trailing A are powered. Considering Kadees to close the gaps but just not now. Still fine tuning. The B unit has a bit of a hitch in its gitalong I am trying to sort out.

Pete

Looks good Pete. You're crankin' them out!

Not sure about minimum diameter but would think with the single truck they should handle 036 if not 031.

Pete

@RSJB18 posted:

Looks good Pete. You're crankin' them out!

Thanks Bob. Thats likely the last one.

Pete

@RSJB18 posted:

Paul- I put a Lionchief/bluetooth board in a Weaver RS-3. The added benefit is either universal remote or LC app control with a smartphone. I'm planing to do more. As Pete said, it's the most cost effective option to upgrade conventional engines.

I started by searching Lionel's site for an appropriate matching engine for the upgrade (if available) from their Lionchief line. I just added the necessary speaker. No electro-couplers with these boards but not a big deal to me.

Does that board include sound?  (You mentioned adding a speaker.)

I found it on https://trainsandtoysoldiers.c...-gauge-model-trains/ , and the description doesn't say much.  Can't find it on Lionel's site.

Can someone show how to make the connectors for these boards.  I didn't realize you could buy them but my knowledge of wiring us limited to soldering and wire nuts.

@Mallard4468 posted:

Does that board include sound?  (You mentioned adding a speaker.)

I found it on https://trainsandtoysoldiers.c...-gauge-model-trains/ , and the description doesn't say much.  Can't find it on Lionel's site.

Yes the LC boards all have sound.
That looks like a bare board, not a LC board. It takes some hunting on Lionel's parts site but what I did was search Lionchief pcb (PC Board) and went through the results till I found a New Haven model. A comparable road name may not be available but if you are doing for example a GP-9 then any GP board would do. The only major issue is that the announcements won't match.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ords=Lionchief%20pcb

@necrails posted:

Can someone show how to make the connectors for these boards.  I didn't realize you could buy them but my knowledge of wiring us limited to soldering and wire nuts.

The install is pretty straight forward. The plugs on the boards are labeled so you can figure out sound, lights, motor(s), etc.

The plugs are JST-ZH, motor output is a JST-EH, I bought pre-made harnesses from Ali-express.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item...gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

If you scroll back a few pages you will find my RS-3 build as I progressed through it.

Bob

Connectors vary depending on which board you end up with. Early LC had JST EH and PH connectors. Newer ones have those plus ZH connectors. Look for kits with pre crimped wires or invest in a decent crimp tool made for those connectors.

Note both XH and EH are listed as 2.54mm but are not interchangeable. Housings are different.

Good thing LC has only a few harnesses to be made and most are just two wire.

power, motor, speaker, coupler, maybe smoke depending on which board you use.

Pete

I may consider that route on a Williams Sharknose set I have.  I have the app.  

Larry

Here’s what I’ve been working on.  I have two MTH GP38-2s from 1998 that came with the high water fuel tanks that I didn’t really care for because of the tanks.  I ordered two fuel tanks from MTH for the PS2 GP38-2 but when they arrived they were identical to the ones I already had.  I discovered that the GP38-2 is essentially the same size as the GP40.  I searched MTH for GP40 parts and found they had GP40 tanks in stock.  The picture they showed depicted a fuel tank that appeared to the same as a later version of the GP38-2 that I have.  I ordered a pair, which are painted the UP gray.  They arrived the other day and today I installed one of them.  I had to drill new holes in the frame file a little off the left front support because of the bell and the back center area due to a screw head.  The BNSF unit has the old fuel tank and the UP unit has the new one.  

Larry

I recently bought a NIB Lionel 17317.  I like it a lot.  I determined that I could easily add a collector and ground strap to it, so I thought about adding an ETD.  I posted a query about that, and the general response was that it wouldn't fit the era.  I'm okay with that.  Since I like lights, I added a warm white LED as a bare ceiling light, and bought 2 types of fruit boxes/containers.  I think it came out alright.

@PSAP2010 posted:

Here’s what I’ve been working on.  I have two MTH GP38-2s from 1998 that came with the high water fuel tanks that I didn’t really care for because of the tanks.  

No kidding on the high water fuel tanks. Those were not prototypical? 

I just checked the MTH parts website and the GP40 fuel tanks are no longer in stock.  I must have bought the last two, lucked out there.  The early GP60Ms used the same high water fuel.  I have three of the later MTH GP60s and the fuel tank on one I checked has the correct distance above the rails but it is shorter that any that are on any of the Atlas GP60s I have.

Larry

It's not quite on the workbench yet, but...

Awhile ago, I built a Frankenstein steeple cab loco from a MPC switcher and a couple of slope back tenders.  As a result, I have two short tender frames.  Here's a pic of one of them:

Trying to decide what to do with them.  Leaning towards something whimsical - some kind of short caboose, or maybe put a beer can on it.  Suggestions are appreciated.

Been looking for a cheap mth #334 dispatch tower, aware of the main belt dry rot issues. I acquired a nonrunning MTH #334 PRR dispatch tower from Trainz (sold as tested, and not working condition).

The main drive belt was in great shape surprisingly, but the rubber band in the top of the dispatch board motor assembly was dry rotted. A size 014 70 durometer oring fits and works perfectly! I've seen the belt listed here, but not the dispatch board o-ring size. New favorite operating accessory!

@p8ntballer789 posted:

Been looking for a cheap mth #334 dispatch tower, aware of the main belt dry rot issues. I acquired a nonrunning MTH #334 PRR dispatch tower from Trainz (sold as tested, and not working condition).

The main drive belt was in great shape surprisingly, but the rubber band in the top of the dispatch board motor assembly was dry rotted. A size 014 70 durometer oring fits and works perfectly! I've seen the belt listed here, but not the dispatch board o-ring size. New favorite operating accessory!

Very cool.  I had never seen operate before.

@Mallard4468, I have some similar shorty flat car bodies I picked up at a train show years ago.  I've had different ideas for hem over the years which either didn't work out or proved to be totally off base.  I think I have come up with one that will work for one of them. 

Put one of those Lionel generators on it to provide power for the work camp cars.

In the third post down from the top of this page I began the tale of making a set of camp cars to accompany my K-Line ARR work train.  Due to the remoteness of much of the right of way accommodations for the work crews is often necessary.

So as previously posted I'm turning this LRRC Tool car into a commissary car to go along with the bunk car.  All logos and lettering have been stripped using Testor's ELO except for the Lionel Built Date. 

The opaque shell that served as windows has been replaced by clear glazing and a wooden floor has been installed over the plastic base of the shell.

These cars served their time in revenue service as ice cooled reefers and were converted into crew cars in Alaska Railroad's own shops.  The shop Forman figured the ice bunker hatches could be used to provide any ventilation necessary but non of the track crew members were fond of getting rained on or snowed on while cooking or eating meals so the commissary car returned to the shops and gained some much needed roof vents.

I'm standing on the precipice of that rabbit hole I spoke of earlier and this blonde haired girl named Alice keeps shoving me closer and closer.  I've got some K-line pick-up assemblies that snap right into the Lionel trucks.  If I find that roll of LEDs that's hiding around here somewhere and make my way over to the electrical forum I fear I'm a goner.  But first I need to get it all decaled up and clear coated.  Humidity has been sky high here and we've been getting those pop up thunder showers for the last few days so paining is on hold and after seeing decals peeling off another unfinished project because it's been waiting to get finished and clear coated for way to long I'd rather wait on the decals until I think I can get them clear coated in a reasonable amount of time.

@coach joe posted:

In the third post down from the top of this page I began the tale of making a set of camp cars to accompany my K-Line ARR work train.  Due to the remoteness of much of the right of way accommodations for the work crews is often necessary.

I'm standing on the precipice of that rabbit hole I spoke of earlier and this blonde haired girl named Alice keeps shoving me closer and closer.  I've got some K-line pick-up assemblies that snap right into the Lionel trucks.  If I find that roll of LEDs that's hiding around here somewhere and make my way over to the electrical forum I fear I'm a goner.  But first I need to get it all decaled up and clear coated.  Humidity has been sky high here and we've been getting those pop up thunder showers for the last few days so paining is on hold and after seeing decals peeling off another unfinished project because it's been waiting to get finished and clear coated for way to long I'd rather wait on the decals until I think I can get them clear coated in a reasonable amount of time.

And don't forget the lighting regulator for flicker-free lighting.....

Be careful...don't trip on a tree root.......

Figured I try my hand at weathering on a C&O boxcar and a open LV hopper. The LV I also tried the inside showing bare metal and added light yellow/brown rust runs as if it recently rained. I'm also changing out the trucks on the LV so I didn't really work on them.

I'm going to redo some areas on the boxcar as I noticed things that I'm not pleased with. These were my first two
so please be gentle...LOL!

@T-Bone1214 both cars look good. Nice work.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

@T-Bone1214 both cars look good. Nice work.

Bob

Thank you! Learning something new every day from this forum and it's great members!

Postwar Lionel ZW power cord replacement.

@RSJB18 posted:

And don't forget the lighting regulator for flicker-free lighting.....

Be careful...don't trip on a tree root.......

You don't look like that little yellow haired girl whose been shoving me ever closer to that rabbit hole.

Finished up another nice flat.

That's really nice.  Where did you get the Bell Telephone sign?

@Mallard4468 posted:

It's not quite on the workbench yet, but...

Awhile ago, I built a Frankenstein steeple cab loco from a MPC switcher and a couple of slope back tenders.  As a result, I have two short tender frames.  Here's a pic of one of them:

Trying to decide what to do with them.  Leaning towards something whimsical - some kind of short caboose, or maybe put a beer can on it.  Suggestions are appreciated.

I love short wheelbase projects.

Only one suggestion, though - no beer can. So often seen, and almost always a waste of a nice beginning.

@Mallard4468 posted:

It's not quite on the workbench yet, but...

Awhile ago, I built a Frankenstein steeple cab loco from a MPC switcher and a couple of slope back tenders.  As a result, I have two short tender frames.  Here's a pic of one of them:

Trying to decide what to do with them.  Leaning towards something whimsical - some kind of short caboose, or maybe put a beer can on it.  Suggestions are appreciated.

A transfer caboose, perhaps?

Mitch

Welcome back Mitch!  Transfer caboose, not a bad idea.

@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

A transfer caboose, perhaps?

Mitch

Who is this??????

Welcome back! Hope you are doing well.

Bob

@D500 posted:

I love short wheelbase projects.

Only one suggestion, though - no beer can. So often seen, and almost always a waste of a nice beginning.

On one hand, it is a cliche.  OTOH, I haven't done one yet.  Still pondering...

Thanks! That’s a really old Bar Mills sign. Looking for a nice die cast 1/48 Bell Telephone truck, any sources?

Billy C

@Trainchief posted:

Thanks! That’s a really old Bar Mills sign. Looking for a nice die cast 1/48 Bell Telephone truck, any sources?

Billy C

Nicely done! You can tell that you put a lot of attention to detail in your work!

@Mallard4468 posted:

On one hand, it is a cliche.  OTOH, I haven't done one yet.  Still pondering...

Hey, a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do. At least once. Looking forward to it regardless.

@coach joe Joe, yes the rabbit hole is right in front of you.  Nice work!

@T-Bone1214 T-Bone, nice work on your first cars.

@Trainchief Trainchief, I really like the flat.  As an retired telephone employee (not Bell or it's offshoots) I'm curious about the Bell sign too!

@rlplionel yes those old cords need replaced.  Everything else in that ZW looks really great!

@Trainchief posted:

Thanks! That’s a really old Bar Mills sign. Looking for a nice die cast 1/48 Bell Telephone truck, any sources?

Billy C

Was that one of those Bar Mills billboards?  I believe I've got one of those around here somewhere.

Gerat work everyone! Billy C. I really like the flat! They are so important in our hobby as they still give us room to bring out layouts to life in tight spots!

Nice to see your back and posting again Mitch! I hope all is well with you!

NEXT!

My bench is strangely empty, need to fix that. My LIRR Morris Park Switcher is done, I'm just waiting for this miserable HHH weather to pass so I can clear-coat the decals. Tropical Storm Debbi is passing as I write so we should be seeing better weather by tomorrow.

I bought a pair of ALCO S2's from Cabin Fever in one of the last of the MTH warehouse auctions, with upgrade plans firmly in mind. Originally one powered chassis with no boards, and a dummy.
The powered chassis wound up as this- with a PS3/2 stacker kit.

The other, a New York Central was going to be a dummy that I was going add lighting and be done. But as fate would have it, when I was sourcing parts for the LNE, I found a forum member who was selling a S2 parts engine, WITH TWO POWERED TRUCKS!

So an ERR upgrade kit from GunnerJohn later, here we go!

I need to mount the pilot on the front, and side-frames on the rear truck and then get going on the electronics and lighting.

More fun!

Bob

Well, went back and re-thought my excursion car. Printed out the new chassis, deck, walls benches, and roof. Only problem I had was after painting the chassis, I left it out side for 15 minutes before bringing it inside and the frame warped in the AZ summer heat! Bummer! I installed the trucks and glued all the parts together anyway and added some little people I had laying around. Actually didn't come out too bad I think. I do believe I need to work on the wall dimensions a bit though.

Darrell,

Where is it worped?

If you look closely you can see the slight gap on both ends of the body between the body and the deck. Once I saw it, it could not be unseen, lol!

Nice work guys!

Bob if I ever get my layout up and running again and I find some extra cash I just might send one your way to upgrade for me! LOL

Darrel I think the car looks fine, just add a little dirt there and no one will ever see it! LOL Thats what I do! LOL

@mike g. posted:

Nice work guys!

Bob if I ever get my layout up and running again and I find some extra cash I just might send one your way to upgrade for me! LOL

Darrel I think the car looks fine, just add a little dirt there and no one will ever see it! LOL Thats what I do! LOL

Thanks Mike. Probably one of my last ERR upgrades. The boards are getting too expensive. I have one more kit on hand after this one.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Thanks Mike. Probably one of my last ERR upgrades. The boards are getting too expensive. I have one more kit on hand after this one.

Bob

LOL Here I am again a day late and a dollar short! LOL

@Darrell posted:

Well, went back and re-thought my excursion car. Printed out the new chassis, deck, walls benches, and roof. Only problem I had was after painting the chassis, I left it out side for 15 minutes before bringing it inside and the frame warped in the AZ summer heat! Bummer! I installed the trucks and glued all the parts together anyway and added some little people I had laying around. Actually didn't come out too bad I think. I do believe I need to work on the wall dimensions a bit though.

The car looks good Darrel. The potential for 3D printing in the hobby is endless.

Bob

@mike g. posted:

LOL Here I am again a day late and a dollar short! LOL

No, you're right on time. I meant that I won't be buying more ERR kits due to the price.

Wow, that's cool!  If that shows up in the 3D catalog here, I might print out a couple of those.

Not sure if I can, the car is a combo of 3 different thingaverse projects that I re-scaled/adjusted dimensions and mashed together to make a version of the open air cars I see on a couple of excursion railroads around the state. I will look into if I can post my remix here though after I make a couple more adjustments.

My workbench has dual roles, trains and woodworking.  Nice to combine the two.  A quick project using scrap walnut to make some remote control holders for the layout.  The DCS remote holder was modified so that it can accommodate a tethered cord if I need to switch to a new WTIU in the future.

So in the area of tools for working models, what machine tools have you all found reasonably priced and quality?  I will like to get a milling machine, drill press, probably a lathe etc.  Essentially a miniature machine shop or at least benchtop machines.  I have a dremel and some accessories.  But really dont know much about what is available.  Have used drill presses and Grizzly mills along with cnc circuit board milling and fab but I dont have that kind of budget nor do I need to be computer controlled or fast.

Was at the Strasburg show yesterday which was great but did not see machines or get advise I can put into practice.

@Robbin posted:

So in the area of tools for working models, what machine tools have you all found reasonably priced and quality?  I will like to get a milling machine, drill press, probably a lathe etc.  Essentially a miniature machine shop or at least benchtop machines.  I have a dremel and some accessories.  But really dont know much about what is available.  Have used drill presses and Grizzly mills along with cnc circuit board milling and fab but I dont have that kind of budget nor do I need to be computer controlled or fast.

Was at the Strasburg show yesterday which was great but did not see machines or get advise I can put into practice.

In the tabletop category there is Sherline. Can be used as a lathe, mill, drill press with attachments and can also be powered with stepper motors for CNC work. Not cheap to get to that point. Then a huge jump to well made professional machines like Bridgeport. In between are the asian machines from Grizzly, Harbor Freight, and on line sources. They have gotten better and can give OK results after being tuned up.

Older US made machines found at auction can be better option if not worn out.

Pete

@Robbin posted:

So in the area of tools for working models, what machine tools have you all found reasonably priced and quality?  I will like to get a milling machine, drill press, probably a lathe etc.  Essentially a miniature machine shop or at least benchtop machines.  I have a dremel and some accessories.  But really dont know much about what is available.  Have used drill presses and Grizzly mills along with cnc circuit board milling and fab but I dont have that kind of budget nor do I need to be computer controlled or fast.

Was at the Strasburg show yesterday which was great but did not see machines or get advise I can put into practice.

Pete’s 100% correct, the only thing I’ll add is there are combination machines available from Asian vendors. As Pete said, some tweaking and they produce great results for model making. I’ve posted a link below for one such a candidate that wouldn’t be a bank breaker,……I have a few Asian machines, and after some tweaks, I’m extremely satisfied with the end products I produce…..this would be a great topic on a separate thread, however, I defer to the moderators to tell us where,…..I have both older US machines, and some Asian, ….the railroad shop is crammed with the Asian machines, they don’t give me much trouble …..

https://www.grizzly.com/produc...mbo-lathe-mill/g0937

Pat

@jstraw124 posted:

My workbench has dual roles, trains and woodworking.  Nice to combine the two.  A quick project using scrap walnut to make some remote control holders for the layout.  The DCS remote holder was modified so that it can accommodate a tethered cord if I need to switch to a new WTIU in the future.

Your post makes me feel so stupid!  I'm an experienced woodworker and have built lots of challenging projects, and I have plenty of nice hardwood scraps laying around.  However, my train remote holders are utilitarian at best.  Your designs are elegant - don't know why I didn't think of them!  Nice finish, too. 

@Norton posted:

In the tabletop category there is Sherline. Can be used as a lathe, mill, drill press with attachments and can also be powered with stepper motors for CNC work. Not cheap to get to that point. Then a huge jump to well made professional machines like Bridgeport. In between are the asian machines from Grizzly, Harbor Freight, and on line sources. They have gotten better and can give OK results after being tuned up.

Older US made machines found at auction can be better option if not worn out.

Pete

@harmonyards posted:

Pete’s 100% correct, the only thing I’ll add is there are combination machines available from Asian vendors. As Pete said, some tweaking and they produce great results for model making. I’ve posted a link below for one such a candidate that wouldn’t be a bank breaker,……I have a few Asian machines, and after some tweaks, I’m extremely satisfied with the end products I produce…..this would be a great topic on a separate thread, however, I defer to the moderators to tell us where,…..I have both older US machines, and some Asian, ….the railroad shop is crammed with the Asian machines, they don’t give me much trouble …..

https://www.grizzly.com/produc...mbo-lathe-mill/g0937

Pat

I've toyed with the idea of getting something like this and have a few questions...

1) One concern of mine with the lower-priced Asian machines is availability (and quality) of the tools and accessories, especially if one decides to add something after the original purchase.  Has this been an issue for you?

2) You mentioned "tweaks" to get good results.  What kind of tuning / modification are you referring to, and what is a good reference for information?

3) Can you recommend a website / organization / book / magazine for learning how to select and use these machines?

Thanks.

@Mallard4468 posted:

I'm an experienced woodworker and have built lots of challenging projects, and I have plenty of nice hardwood scraps laying around.  However, my train remote holders are utilitarian at best.  Your designs are elegant - don't know why I didn't think of them!  Nice finish, too.

Thanks for the kind words.  The scraps came from a batch of wood that was given to me by a retiring coworker. All of it was only 3/16” thick.  Difficult to figure out projects for thin wood.  She said it was milled by her grandfather over 100 years ago.  I enjoy the irony of that vintage of wood being used to hold remote controls.

Of course I can’t figure out when enough is enough on both my woodworking and train projects.  I didn’t care much for the clonk sound the remotes made when dropped into the holder, so now they’re felt lined.

@Mallard4468 posted:

I've toyed with the idea of getting something like this and have a few questions...

1) One concern of mine with the lower-priced Asian machines is availability (and quality) of the tools and accessories, especially if one decides to add something after the original purchase.  Has this been an issue for you?

2) You mentioned "tweaks" to get good results.  What kind of tuning / modification are you referring to, and what is a good reference for information?

3) Can you recommend a website / organization / book / magazine for learning how to select and use these machines?

Thanks.

Like I mentioned earlier, this would be a great thread to start a conversation about, but I’m not sure where such a discussion should belong, ….I don’t think it’s this particular thread, ….which means we wind up with our suggestions in the twilight zone,…….We need to ask the moderators where to put this topic, and keep a good rolling resource thread for tools/machines

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Like I mentioned earlier, this would be a great thread to start a conversation about, but I’m not sure where such a discussion should belong, ….I don’t think it’s this particular thread, ….which means we wind up with our suggestions in the twilight zone,…….We need to ask the moderators where to put this topic, and keep a good rolling resource thread for tools/machines

Pat

Sorry...but we can not currently devote bandwidth to a separate sub-forum about tools and machines.  It likely would morph into discussions unrelated to the purpose of the forum.  There is nothing wrong with pointing out the tools and "machines"  you have used to repair, build, etc. your rolling stock and locomotives (and related items) here in this thread as many of you already have.  Just make sure that you only use links if you are going to mention/recommend non-sponsors please.  You also have the ability to contact one another via profile emails to discuss in more detail the tools/machines you have used.  Finally, we do provide you with a rather extensive resource list which has all kinds of useful links including a lot of help locating product which can aid you at your workbench.

Hello all,

As a long time lurker on this thread, I finally have something worthy to contribute. 

In January my Sunset 3rd Rail O5a (circa 2005) ran about ten feet when the TAS TMCC board died with a burning smell.  It's not the first TAS board of that vintage that's given up on me.  Today, the project's coming off the bench.

I buy trains to run, this one's too nice to be a shelf queen.

I gutted all the electronics and lighting.  Put in ERR Cruise w/Railsounds, all LED lighting, JWA's Superchuffer with his chuff generator.  It has turned out fantastic. 

Here's a test video as I was figuring out the JWA products:

The final product:

@jstraw124 posted:

Thanks for the kind words.  The scraps came from a batch of wood that was given to me by a retiring coworker. All of it was only 3/16” thick.  Difficult to figure out projects for thin wood.  She said it was milled by her grandfather over 100 years ago.  I enjoy the irony of that vintage of wood being used to hold remote controls.

Of course I can’t figure out when enough is enough on both my woodworking and train projects.  I didn’t care much for the clonk sound the remotes made when dropped into the holder, so now they’re felt lined.

OK, now you're just piling on. 

@harmonyards posted:

Like I mentioned earlier, this would be a great thread to start a conversation about, but I’m not sure where such a discussion should belong, ….I don’t think it’s this particular thread, ….which means we wind up with our suggestions in the twilight zone,…….We need to ask the moderators where to put this topic, and keep a good rolling resource thread for tools/machines

Pat

Based on Alan's answer, it sounds like answering in this forum is fair game, unless we digress into non-train uses.  If you get the chance, please respond to my earlier questions, either within this thread (IMO, this would help others besides myself) or via my profile email.  Your insights will be appreciated.

Serviced an Atlas RS-1 that I bought from a forum member recently. It has TMCC with EOB. I opened the shell looking for a volume control...none to be found. Also, no battery????
Anyway getting the shell back on was fun. What in the name of all things good was Atlas thinking with that crazy antenna arrangement. I had the cab on and off 5 times to get everything back in the right spots.......

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

NEXT!

My bench is strangely empty, need to fix that. My LIRR Morris Park Switcher is done, I'm just waiting for this miserable HHH weather to pass so I can clear-coat the decals. Tropical Storm Debbi is passing as I write so we should be seeing better weather by tomorrow.

I bought a pair of ALCO S2's from Cabin Fever in one of the last of the MTH warehouse auctions, with upgrade plans firmly in mind. Originally one powered chassis with no boards, and a dummy.
The powered chassis wound up as this- with a PS3/2 stacker kit.

The other, a New York Central was going to be a dummy that I was going add lighting and be done. But as fate would have it, when I was sourcing parts for the LNE, I found a forum member who was selling a S2 parts engine, WITH TWO POWERED TRUCKS!

So an ERR upgrade kit from GunnerJohn later, here we go!

I need to mount the pilot on the front, and side-frames on the rear truck and then get going on the electronics and lighting.

More fun!

Bob

Bob - looks like a nice rainy day project!

Parts and pieces as I'm repainting some MTH club cars.  

Cheers, Dave

@Sean007 posted:

Bob - looks like a nice rainy day project!

Rainy days, sunny days, nights, weekends........

Gonna take a while to put it together.

Thanks

@darlander posted:

Parts and pieces as I'm repainting some MTH club cars.  

Cheers, Dave

Dave I sure hope you share more photos and tell a little how your going about doing this as I know I am going to have some that I want to repaint down the road!

@mike g. posted:

Dave I sure hope you share more photos and tell a little how your going about doing this as I know I am going to have some that I want to repaint down the road!

Not much to it Mike.   I use SCALECOAT II - Wash away to remove old markings.   Important to wash in soapy water, rinse and dry before painting.    I'm lucky with this project to be able to use rattle cans  - RUST-OLEUM Gloss Marigold & Flat Red Primer.    If needed, I clear gloss coat areas that receives decals.   After a good cure, I use a flat finish to seal the decals.  The biggest problem can be getting everything put back together correctly.   I take pictures at times to reference part locations, etc.  That was a specially true with my American and Big Hooke crane cars I did this spring.    I am off on a trip now so it will be a few weeks before I get  back to the bench.

Cheers, Dave

PS:  Looks like you have a great home for new layout!   Anxious to follow your progress!

Inspired by @Sitka's #41 US Army switcher project, I just finished lighting this MPC-era Lionel Marines bunk car from 1984:

I used Evan Designs 3mm universal 7-19v "bulb" LED kits recommended by @WesternPacific2217. I mounted them "slip-fit" using sections of spray bottle tubing so they can be replaced. The tubes also allow for some diffused light inside the car. Fortunately, the arch-bar trucks were designed to accommodate a standard "snap-in" pickup plate. To reduce flicker, I added some car weights over the "pickup truck" end of the car.

As Tom Bodett says at the end of his Motel 6 spots, "We'll leave the light on for ya'."

@Bill Swatos posted:

Inspired by @Sitka's #41 US Army switcher project, I just finished lighting this MPC-era Lionel Marines bunk car from 1984:

I used Evan Designs 3mm universal 7-19v "bulb" LED kits recommended by @WesternPacific2217. I mounted them "slip-fit" using sections of spray bottle tubing so they can be replaced. The tubes also allow for some diffused light inside the car. Fortunately, the arch-bar trucks were designed to accommodate a standard "snap-in" pickup plate. To reduce flicker, I added some car weights over the "pickup truck" end of the car.

As Tom Bodett says at the end of his Motel 6 spots, "We'll leave the light on for ya'."

Nice job Bill that is a much better look then the interior, a job well done Mark

Hopefully, it’ll stay this neat.  New workbench at MTH, the 2nd Elkridge location  (my old one from Columbia.  First Elkridge location was in the warehouse).  

This is what happens when one works for a railroad with a sensayuma: 

One heckuva wheelchair ramp! 

Mitch

Mitch, I agree a wheelchair ramp needs a crossbuck!!

Where the magic happens, and will in future...

Mitch

@M. Mitchell Marmel

I gotta agree with Mark but I think the crossbucks should be near the bottom of the ramp where you'll be picking up speed.

Sensayuma?  One of those new Japanese High speed engines?

I can't wait for that magic to start happening again!

Joe, good point about the placement of the crossbuck. 😃

Ceramic lighthouse from a friend's estate. A "model" I guess of a large, offshore structure. Scale....? Waterfront/coastal things always appeal to me.

I wanted to re-detail it to represent a smaller lighthouse, such as can be seen around estuarial and riverine environments - here, at "The Gullet" of Dusty Bayou. The story is that it is actually disused, as the bayou was bypassed by a canal project, off-camera (trust me).

I'm not sure that the alligator at the door is not, uh, overkill. I may add some "keep out" signs and fencing one day. It's getting pretty crowded in Dusty Bayou.

I "re-scaled" the structure by getting rid of the little windows and adding a couple of 1:48 Grandt Line window frames, this side and the other. This resembles a larger lighthouse offshore in the Gulf south of Mobile.

The door frame/door unit is also 1:48 Grandt Line, so I guess I have sufficiently re-scaled this to O or so. Ceramic is great to paint - porous and a natural-feeling substance. The entrance way is scratch built from HobLob basswood. My door knob looks more like a door blob. But, oh, well.

@D500  It looks much better and fits nicely with the rest of the scenery.

This E5A is being relettered and numbered for service on the Sam Houston Zephyr.  This was the original 9909 used on the CB&Q Silver Streak Zephyr. It was purchased by C&S after the original SHZ was ruined in a crash.

@D500 posted:

Ceramic lighthouse from a friend's estate. A "model" I guess of a large, offshore structure. Scale....? Waterfront/coastal things always appeal to me.

I wanted to re-detail it to represent a smaller lighthouse, such as can be seen around estuarial and riverine environments - here, at "The Gullet" of Dusty Bayou. The story is that it is actually disused, as the bayou was bypassed by a canal project, off-camera (trust me).

I'm not sure that the alligator at the door is not, uh, overkill. I may add some "keep out" signs and fencing one day. It's getting pretty crowded in Dusty Bayou.

I "re-scaled" the structure by getting rid of the little windows and adding a couple of 1:48 Grandt Line window frames, this side and the other. This resembles a larger lighthouse offshore in the Gulf south of Mobile.

The door frame/door unit is also 1:48 Grandt Line, so I guess I have sufficiently re-scaled this to O or so. Ceramic is great to paint - porous and a natural-feeling substance. The entrance way is scratch built from HobLob basswood. My door knob looks more like a door blob. But, oh, well.

Nice! Now you need a foghorn...

@D500

How'd you get rid of the original windows?  My wife had gotten me this light house that may need some re-scaling and a solid rock base to add some height.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Mitch, I agree a wheelchair ramp needs a crossbuck!!

And all wheelchairs/scooters need a Nathan P01235!

@Bill Swatos posted:

And all wheelchairs/scooters need a Nathan P01235!

  That would do the trick!

@Bill Swatos posted:

And all wheelchairs/scooters need a Nathan P01235!

Why...yes.  Yes, they do. 

Mitch

I know its not much but giving the generic blah Lionel tunnels a little life. I never tried my hand at painting rock or making things look realistic but may try. I like the small detail I am adding.

not done yet, have to touch up two of the four logos still

@coach joe posted:

@D500

How'd you get rid of the original windows?  My wife had gotten me this light house that may need some re-scaling and a solid rock base to add some height.

Notice on the picture below of the original that the small windows are actually holes (this isn't really a bad model, as such ceramic things go); I stuffed them with heavy-duty aluminum foil wadded up, added some CA, then filled the remaining shallow hole with Bondo, then sanded smooth once everything was cured. I actually left the mid-height window hole on each side, then added a new larger window frame centered over it. Before that I painted the area around the original hole/window flat black to trick the eye.

Your windows appear to be a raised surface treatment. You could still use new window frames of appropriate 1:48 size, and also paint the area behind them to trick the eye, as I did. Removing some of your windows may be trickier, as ceramic is, by definition, really hard. A Dremel and abrasive bits (sandpaper type?) might slowly knock them down. You also might just "board them up" with basswood or styrene, just to change the look.

Filler (Bondo) may be needed. Then spray paint the walls with several coats of flat paint. That's what I did. It was really a fairly fun project that turned out better than I expected it to.

Started digging into my S2 switcher build. First up is to put sideframes and the pilot onto the rear truck. The engine was a Premier dummy that I'm repowering. The dummy trucks didn't have the worm drive and idler gears.

I sourced a Railking parts engine that happened to have one complete truck, and one without the frames. Easy right? I'll just use the Premier frames and pilot. NOT! The mounting holes are different on the two models.
The holes are close but don't match, and the Premier are top-mount, Railking bottom.

Not sure if I want to try and drill the truck out or just find another truck. And of course, MTH doesn't have the parts list for any of these on the website yet.

The pilot has the matching holes but the holes in the truck are not tapped.

This is the complete RK truck

I also ordered jst-eh wiring harnesses from Ali-express for the ERR upgrade.

Bob

Bob, the projects you undertake are always amazing. You also present the information in an easy to understand manner. You share your thought process and that is helpful. Very impressive and thank you.

Jay

After having disassembled and modified dozens of passenger cars in my collection, I feel like an idiot for not figuring this out sooner.  Near the ends of most passenger cars there is an aisleway to one side and the windows will often have a handrail.  From now on, I plan to add this railing where appropriate because everything I buy is going to get “dinked with”.  I can’t help it.

@Trainchief posted:

Thanks! That’s a really old Bar Mills sign. Looking for a nice die cast 1/48 Bell Telephone truck, any sources?

Billy C

That is really nice. Reminds me of the switching station where my father worked when he was with Bell.

Nothing. Finally got it cleaned up.

@RSJB18 posted:

Started digging into my S2 switcher build. First up is to put sideframes and the pilot onto the rear truck. The engine was a Premier dummy that I'm repowering. The dummy trucks didn't have the worm drive and idler gears.

I sourced a Railking parts engine that happened to have one complete truck, and one without the frames. Easy right? I'll just use the Premier frames and pilot. NOT! The mounting holes are different on the two models.
The holes are close but don't match, and the Premier are top-mount, Railking bottom.

Not sure if I want to try and drill the truck out or just find another truck. And of course, MTH doesn't have the parts list for any of these on the website yet.

The pilot has the matching holes but the holes in the truck are not tapped.

This is the complete RK truck

I also ordered jst-eh wiring harnesses from Ali-express for the ERR upgrade.

Bob

Bob, what a bummer.  Some here have the skills to make this work.  I do not.  I think I would have to shelve it until parts are available or I found the proper engine to cannibalize.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, what a bummer.  Some here have the skills to make this work.  I do not.  I think I would have to shelve it until parts are available or I found the proper engine to cannibalize.

I could too Mark, I just need to have the Harmon Shops at my disposal......

I was able to tap the hole for the pilot yesterday, easy stuff. The trucks are a different story. I'd have to butcher one or both sets of holes (frame and truck), to get screw holes that will work. Biggest issue is that the existing holes are just close enough that I can't drill new holes without the bit walking off into the existing. The tolerance left to right of the wheels is only about a 1/16" too so if I'm off just a little the brake shoes will hit the wheel.

Coupled with the fact that the frames have a different appearance from most 2-axel diesels. I'd wind up replacing them on both trucks if I mess one up. All of my 2-axel diesels have Bloomberg AAR style trucks. Alco used a truck designed by one of their engineers James Blunt, which is what MTH modeled.

So I'm searching for the correct truck that I can use instead.

Bob

@RSJB18 You always have something going on at the workbench and I pickup a lot from your post! Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your adventures!

@RSJB18 posted:

I could too Mark, I just need to have the Harmon Shops at my disposal......

Biggest issue is that the existing holes are just close enough that I can't drill new holes without the bit walking off into the existing. The tolerance left to right of the wheels is only about a 1/16" too so if I'm off just a little the brake shoes will

So I'm searching for the correct truck that I can use instead.

Bob

Yes, I thought of Harmon Shops! 😊

I hate that where the hole is too close to drill another.  🤦‍♂️

@T-Bone1214 @Tranquil Hollow RR

Thanks for the compliments and support. I couldn't do a lot of what I'm doing without the knowledge shared by others on the Forum. Happy to add my small pieces of advice where I can.

Bob

@MartyE posted:

Nothing. Finally got it cleaned up.

A clean workbench is a sign of a sick mind...

Mitch

@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

A clean workbench is a sign of a sick mind...

Mitch

Is it akin to a clean desk is a sign of an office worker who doesn’t do anything??  🤔

@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

A clean workbench is a sign of a sick mind...

Mitch

It is good to know, then, that my mental health is in great shape.

My workbench is clean periodically, just doesn't stay that way long!

@RSJB18 posted:

The trucks are a different story. I'd have to butcher one or both sets of holes (frame and truck), to get screw holes that will work. Biggest issue is that the existing holes are just close enough that I can't drill new holes without the bit walking off into the existing.

• My possible solution to your aforementioned dilemma is as follows.
• Buy a 4:40 tap and some 4:40, brass machine screws that are longer than the thickness of the material into which the existing hole is drilled (or 6:32 brass machine screws if the existing hole is larger than a threaded 4:40 hole). The drill size for a 4:40 is a #43 drill and a 6:32 is a #36 drill.
• Enlarge your existing hole with the appropriately sized drill and tap the hole for the threads.
• Using a small amount of Epoxy on the threads of your brass machine screw (I recommend brass for the softness of the metal which will become obvious in the next paragraph) and carefully screw the Epoxy-laden screw into the newly drilled hole unit the bottom of the screw is exactly flush with the surface of the material into which it is being screwed.
• Let the Epoxy THOUROGHLY dry.
• Once the Epoxy is dry, cut off the top of the screw as close to the surface of the material into which the screw was inserted. The brass screw is the best for a easier cut.
• Using a fine-toothed file, file any part of the screw protruding the surface of the material into which the screw was inserted, so the cut screw is now even with that surface (again, the brass screw will be less resistant to the file.
• You are now left with a surface into which to drill your new hole that no longer has an existing, encroaching hole in the way. The brass screw plugging the existing hole is also less resistant to the drill for your new hole.

@MartyE posted:

Nothing. Finally got it cleaned up.

SHOW OFF!!!!   

@Randy Harrison posted:

• My possible solution to your aforementioned dilemma is as follows.
• Buy a 4:40 tap and some 4:40, brass machine screws that are longer than the thickness of the material into which the existing hole is drilled (or 6:32 brass machine screws if the existing hole is larger than a threaded 4:40 hole). The drill size for a 4:40 is a #43 drill and a 6:32 is a #36 drill.
• Enlarge your existing hole with the appropriately sized drill and tap the hole for the threads.
• Using a small amount of Epoxy on the threads of your brass machine screw (I recommend brass for the softness of the metal which will become obvious in the next paragraph) and carefully screw the Epoxy-laden screw into the newly drilled hole unit the bottom of the screw is exactly flush with the surface of the material into which it is being screwed.
• Let the Epoxy THOUROGHLY dry.
• Once the Epoxy is dry, cut off the top of the screw as close to the surface of the material into which the screw was inserted. The brass screw is the best for a easier cut.
• Using a fine-toothed file, file any part of the screw protruding the surface of the material into which the screw was inserted, so the cut screw is now even with that surface (again, the brass screw will be less resistant to the file.
• You are now left with a surface into which to drill your new hole that no longer has an existing, encroaching hole in the way. The brass screw plugging the existing hole is also less resistant to the drill for your new hole.

Thanks Randy. Makes perfect sense. I'm going to try and find the right truck from MTH first. If not, I may give this  a shot.

Bob

I’m still adding to the little passenger train consist that is led by my recently purchased PRR Doodlebug from Lionel’s 2024 Catalog.  Several weeks ago I showed my updates to my Lionel 9510 PRR Combo Mail/Passenger car.  I then purchased a NIB 19002 PRR Dining Car.   I bought a MTH dining car insert (all I could find) and did a lot of surgery to it. I cut out the cooking area, added an Arrista cook sans legs, and some pots/pans bought from Etsy. All of the pots/pans needed painted.  For the dining area I had to cut off half the tables on one side in order to get them to fit. I painted on white tablecloths, added painted dishes and coffee cups, and then legless seated passengers.  I bought an Arrista waiter, but decided not to add him since he’s much larger than the diners. The chef is by himself so he’s okay.  I added a lady walking behind the kitchen area to ‘show’ that you can get to that car from the Doodlebug that’s in front of it.  I put an LED light strip with a lighting regulator on the ceiling, some clear ‘glass’ and voila!

It looks decent when viewed at arms length  I’ll readily admit it pales in comparison to some of the dining car upgrades posted here.  My next project will be to populate a yet-to-buy PRR Passenger Car.

Update: I just bought a NIB Lionel 9515 Passenger Car on the bay.  I'll be starting that project in mid-September.

@texgeekboy posted:

I’m still adding to the little passenger train consist that is led by my recently purchased PRR Doodlebug from Lionel’s 2024 Catalog.  Several weeks ago I showed my updates to my Lionel 9510 PRR Combo Mail/Passenger car.  I then purchased a NIB 19002 PRR Dining Car.   I bought a MTH dining car insert (all I could find) and did a lot of surgery to it. I cut out the cooking area, added an Arrista cook sans legs, and some pots/pans bought from Etsy. All of the pots/pans needed painted.  For the dining area I had to cut off half the tables on one side in order to get them to fit. I painted on white tablecloths, added painted dishes and coffee cups, and then legless seated passengers.  I bought an Arrista waiter, but decided not to add him since he’s much larger than the diners. The chef is by himself so he’s okay.  I added a lady walking behind the kitchen area to ‘show’ that you can get to that car from the Doodlebug that’s in front of it.  I put an LED light strip with a lighting regulator on the ceiling, some clear ‘glass’ and voila!

it looks decent when viewed at arms length  I’ll readily admit it pales in comparison to some of the dining car upgrades posted here.  My next project will be to populate a yet-to-buy PRR Passenger Car.

Nice work. I think it looks great.

Bob

@texgeekboy

What Bob said, looks great!

That’s a really great job on the diner!

Got another flat reworked. This old rundown grain storage warehouse started life as a Walthers Cornerstone building. It's due for a new sign this weekend.

The pealing paint effect on brick is great @Trainchief

Thanks! My first time using the peel paint look. Spray a little hairspray on the base coat and then put on your final coat over that. You're now ready to destroy your project by scrapping off the paint. It turned out much better than I anticipated. Learned the technique from the military model guys. They are great at weathering and paint peeling.

Came home to find my previously clean workbench covered with my son’s projects.

Trainchief, the building looks terrific.

I agree with Rod and that is impressive. You should post it tomorrow in the scenery section; specifically on “ Sunday Scenic Showcase “.

@jstraw124,

I chuckled when I saw your picture.  I'm going to a meet tomorrow and am hoping to sell the coal elevator, lumber loader, and coal ramp!

@texgeekboy posted:

@jstraw124,

I chuckled when I saw your picture.  I'm going to a meet tomorrow and am hoping to sell the coal elevator, lumber loader, and coal ramp!

His plan is to do the same thing in a future show. It’s part of an estate he picked up.  

@jstraw124 posted:

Came home to find my previously clean workbench covered with my son’s projects.

EXCELLENT........ great to see new blood moving into the greatest hobby .

@Dallas Joseph posted:

EXCELLENT........ great to see new blood moving into the greatest hobby .

How true!  I hope to have someone to pass the hobby to someday. 😢

I received the Premier truck that I needed for my S2 courtesy of @Jon G. I also ordered some missing parts from MTH so I should be able to get this project moving soon.

I mounted the side frame this morning to verify fit.

Bob

Bob, that’s great Jon was able to help you out.  We will be watching for your project reports.

A mess, I need to get it cleaned up! Sorry, not showing any pictures!😁

Great work everyone!

@RSJB18 Bob just wondering how your projects going?

@mike g. posted:

Great work everyone!

@RSJB18 Bob just wondering how your projects going?

Nothing new to report Mike. Maybe I'll get some time this weekend.

Thanks

MTH - this Hudson in not painted - well, it is below the waist, but not the main castings (the nose fin only had been painted, however). I found it disassembled on eBay some years ago, minus all boards, with the little boiler/tender parts in plastic bags.There were almost no screws in the box, but I had all that I needed left over from my scratch-bashing activities (except the main boiler screws, which I found at Ace Hardware). I put ERR Cruise Commander in it, no sound, no smoke; operating coil coupler.

Lately I decided to letter it, and emulated the 5445 in Mercury service, as shown in 2 photos in Know Thy Hudsons. Apparently, cast zinc has the NYC Century gray dead to rights.  The builders plates and the oval came in a bag, as well as the brass coupler cover. The piping was in place.

No casting paint here either. Brass coal cover doors.

Still no paint. The white stripes and aluminum lettering follow the prototype photos well enough. The road name is from an old Walthers NYC set.

Actually, it is painted now - it had 2 coats of Glosscote applied after I assembled and cleaned it, and some Dullcote after the decaling.

As received a few years back. I have trouble resisting this sort of thing. Enjoyable.

I had to do some rework on the front of my RI U boat. I have to touch up a couple of dings and it will be ready for decals. I may get around to decals this weekend.

I need the decorative horn and brake wheel. Any leads on a parts supplier for MPC stuff would be appreciated.

Very nice job D500 and Mike D!  Paint jobs look great!

Decided to pull my Mi Loco K5 apart and do some repaining. It was a runner anyway, so I didn’t want this project to stall out. Picked this one up from Carey Williams last year. 1935 loco and big at 17/64ths scale. Going back together and next will be stripping the boiler and tender for some paint.

Re-started my S2 project......and then re-stopped........

The CEO was otherwise occupied today so except for a small detour to the MIL's house to hang a drape, I had some time at the bench today. Some mid-afternoon rain helped the cause as well.

I did the truck assembly, installed the frames, pilots, pick up wires, and Lionel electro-couplers.
Speaker and prog/run switch went into the fuel tank and the tank was installed.

I wired up the motors and tested them, again all is moving in the right direction.

Then I took a good look at the Cruise-commander and railsounds boards and the a aforementioned stop occurred. It doesn't look like the boards will fit under the small narrow hood of the S2...... I tried various arrangements but even if I could fit the boards, forget about connecting any wires. I even considered putting the RS board in the cab but then the engineer and conductor would have to run the train from the back porch.

So unless I'm missing the obvious then I may drop back and punt on this engine getting an ERR upgrade and might try a Flyer-chief or Lionchief board.

At least I got to see it move.....

To be continued......

Bob

Bob, small success, but that’s a disappointment about the ERR boards 😢

@RSJB18 posted:

Re-started my S2 project......and then re-stopped........

The CEO was otherwise occupied today so except for a small detour to the MIL's house to hang a drape, I had some time at the bench today. Some mid-afternoon rain helped the cause as well.

I did the truck assembly, installed the frames, pilots, pick up wires, and Lionel electro-couplers.
Speaker and prog/run switch went into the fuel tank and the tank was installed.

I wired up the motors and tested them, again all is moving in the right direction.

Then I took a good look at the Cruise-commander and railsounds boards and the a aforementioned stop occurred. It doesn't look like the boards will fit under the small narrow hood of the S2...... I tried various arrangements but even if I could fit the boards, forget about connecting any wires. I even considered putting the RS board in the cab but then the engineer and conductor would have to run the train from the back porch.

So unless I'm missing the obvious then I may drop back and punt on this engine getting an ERR upgrade and might try a Flyer-chief or Lionchief board.

At least I got to see it move.....

To be continued......

Bob

Sounds like a frustrating effort Bob. If the only recourse is to use the cab then perhaps you could use a silhouette for the crew.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, small success, but that’s a disappointment about the ERR boards 😢

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Sounds like a frustrating effort Bob. If the only recourse is to use the cab then perhaps you could use a silhouette for the crew.

I decided to go with a Flyerchief board. Lionel made a Baldwin VO-1000 with decent sounds. It will give me bluetooth/ universal remote control, electro-couplers, and lights.

Now to decide what to put the ERR boards in.........

And for the record....I opened the Soundtraxx/ blunami site and took a look around.......

Thanks guys.