@RIRocket posted:The corners need a 1/16” pad, so while my benchwork is, I believe, 3/4”, the wood they used must be maybe 1/2”.
I was hoping so as I am getting closer to getting my layout going and I plan on using 1/2" for most of the layout, but am going to use 3/4" for where my Millhouse TT is going to go.
Just off the workbench at the Warrenville yards is this LIRR tanker created from a $5. junker
Before - note that I printed decals and planed on using wire from m local Chinese restaurant's take out container handles for piping:
After. I decided to use coat closet hanger wire for a bolder piping look:
That’s ingenious John, great job.
Jay
@Lionelski posted:Just off the workbench at the Warrenville yards is this LIRR tanker created from a $5. junker
Before - note that I printed decals and planed on using wire from m local Chinese restaurant's take out container handles for piping:
After. I decided to use coat closet hanger wire for a bolder piping look:
Nice work John. Tons of those post war Sunoco tankers around.
Bob
John great work! I see those cars at a lot of thrift stores!
I decided that it was time for all my hoppers to have a bath. 30+ years of being stored in a smokey house left them with a funky film of dust & schmutz. After a gentle bath in warm water and dawn soap they are looking much better.
I've installed a Blunami 4408 board in an Atlas Vermont Railway GP60 and am slowly converting it to BNSF patched #198. I used Fusion Scale Graphics decal sheet and Smokebox Graphics stick on reflectors. I have yet to install the white antennas on each side of the cab roof, re-install the air reservoirs, associated piping and a couple railings. I used relays to operate the original TMCC couplers.
Larry
after cutting some pilings (from chop sticks) and scraping them with a worn zona saw, I decided to build a needed structure. I spent sometime fitting sticks together with clamps and glue. I have wanted to make a shed for the work barge I am making. Doesn’t look like much now except for the satisfaction of getting a bit closer with only some random sticks of wood! there will be windows all around this shed for optimal visibility. the entrance (will be cut open on the two vertical pencil lines) front open for heavy motor equipment and lots of detailed stuff. Of course there will be siding, some doors and ladders, and other hardware. It will be weather worn and down and dirty.
today, the trick to this was making a horizontal brace on front and back to fit the camber (measure of deck curvature applied transversely) . It worked! Fits well.
@Leroof posted:after cutting some pilings (from chop sticks) and scraping them with a worn zona saw, I decided to build a needed structure. I spent sometime fitting sticks together with clamps and glue. I have wanted to make a shed for the work barge I am making. Doesn’t look like much now except for the satisfaction of getting a bit closer with only some random sticks of wood! there will be windows all around this shed for optimal visibility. the entrance (will be cut open on the two vertical pencil lines) front open for heavy motor equipment and lots of detailed stuff. Of course there will be siding, some doors and ladders, and other hardware. It will be weather worn and down and dirty.
today, the trick to this was making a horizontal brace on front and back to fit the camber (measure of deck curvature applied transversely) . It worked! Fits well.
Looks good so far Pierre. I'm glad you mentioned the deck camber, my eyes would have never picked up that curvature but once you mentioned it I can see it where the base of the shed meets the deck.
@Leroof Pierre, very nice work. I'm like Coach Joe not seeing the smooth camber until you pointed it out!
Thx, coach Joe and Mark. As irregular as the shed may be, fitting the camber made my day!
Here is a Bangor & Aroostook Railroad (BAR) converted troop sleeper caboose I have been working on. It started off as an Atlas car and I modified the side windows, cut open the end vestibules and added scratchbuilt bulkhead doorways, added scratchbuilt bay windows, and did some other modifications. It just needs its two-rail trucks swapped for three-rail trucks and couplers (which I recently obtained) and then the corner steps need to be added.
Mike G, I cut it (shaped it ) after making a pattern of the camber on deck. Thx for your interest sir.
Ben L Maggi, nice work on the BAR converted troop sleeper caboose! Cool.
I have shifted some gears today, I have a vintage( not aware of manufacturer or era? Early can motor job! ) boxcab that was a display model with the idea it would appear on the float job. It’s two rail, mostly all metal construction, now on the workbench. It never ran when obtained ( two decades ago?). Has two can motors and derlin chains and nylon gears. Yesterday I opened it up. Dirt and grime! Under the circumstances it would not run. Picture to follow.
Started by a good cleaning, top to bottom. Removed the motors and check for any obvious first sight irregularities. I didn’t photograph the bottom but take my word for it Gunk city! The toothbrush I used was in full use.
Gears had some gunk, chains had it too. I got it to the point where the motors were happily (well, moving at least) spinning. I put the motors back into the chassis and the spinning wheels now met with a dremel spinning on low with a polishing atatchment. Placed it on the track and it moved doing the jerk like the 60’s dance! The motors moved in sync somewhat!
I decided to clean it again. When done it needed a tiny bit of lubrication, certainly appreciated as it was dry as a desert! With the motors taken off again The wheels and chains moved freely on both trucks. One significantly easier than the other. A slight bit of resistance remained in spite of the cleaning and lube efforts. There were no breaks in the chains, no gear irregularities seen. A bit of wheel wobble as seen in the next video.
What I see is the possibility of axle irregularity.
more on this story after lunch.
@Leroof posted:Mike G, I cut it (shaped it ) after making a pattern of the camber on deck. Thx for your interest sir.
Ben L Maggi, nice work on the BAR converted troop sleeper caboose! Cool.
I have shifted some gears today, I have a vintage( not aware of manufacturer or era? Early can motor job! ) boxcab that was a display model with the idea it would appear on the float job. It’s two rail, mostly all metal construction, now on the workbench. It never ran when obtained ( two decades ago?). Has two can motors and derlin chains and nylon gears. Yesterday I opened it up. Dirt and grime! Under the circumstances it would not run. Picture to follow.
Started by a good cleaning, top to bottom. Removed the motors and check for any obvious first sight irregularities. I didn’t photograph the bottom but take my word for it Gunk city! The toothbrush I used was in full use.
Gears had some gunk, chains had it too. I got it to the point where the motors were happily (well, moving at least) spinning. I put the motors back into the chassis and the spinning wheels now met with a dremel spinning on low with a polishing atatchment. Placed it on the track and it moved doing the jerk like the 60’s dance! The motors moved in sync somewhat!
I decided to clean it again. When done it needed a tiny bit of lubrication, certainly appreciated as it was dry as a desert! With the motors taken off again The wheels and chains moved freely on both trucks. One significantly easier than the other. A slight bit of resistance remained in spite of the cleaning and lube efforts. There were no breaks in the chains, no gear irregularities seen. A bit of wheel wobble as seen in the next video.
What I see is the possibility of axle irregularity.
more on this story after lunch.
Looks good for it's age Pierre. Put the shell back on and run it!
Bob
Back from lunch. OK. in order for the little beast to move it needs 3.2 volts DC to start up. So, its slow creeping characteristics just never were a part of its history! But with the weight of the metal shell and some rolling stock to pull or push it will do the float job. Runs better ok at 5 volts.
I’m with Bob, shell on and run it.
I -Pad battery down to 2% ! Back when recharged.
it’s a bit funky but it was well worth the fun renovating this.
Does anyone want to guess what where and when this was manufactured?
One day she will appear working in Saturday Morning Switcher post possibly!
Thx and appreciation to all that tuned in.
@Leroof posted:it’s a bit funky but it was well worth the fun renovating this.
Two. decades is a long sentence to be in a box or on a shelf!one day she will appear working in Saturday morning switcher post possibly!
Thx and appreciation to all that tuned in.
Very cool, congratulations!
Thx Mike!
It runs very smoothly!
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