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@VHubbard posted:

You should never hit the total button to know the cost of the hobby.

My wife is a teacher and it is in her DNA to keep one copy of everything.  We bought a ScanSnap IX300 scanner and 2-3 weeks later we eliminated about 1000 pounds of paper and got a lot of our storage back.   

That is what I am doing with my Lionel Manuals also.  Much easier to find vs. digging through a bookshelf and boxes. 

We were just talking about a receipt scanner. I'm tired of all the paper, besides they fade to nothing after a few years.

I have a lot of manuals in PDF files already too.

That Sub looks good for it's age.

Bob

I've said in the past there are times I feel like every train I own is on the workbench.  This is one of those times.

First, I've got a K-Line 4-6-2 New York Central No. 3010 hauling the milk train around the layout.  The air whistle in the tender was a little slow to respond and at times a little weak.  I pulled the shell to see if a little lube would help the situation.  With the shell off I activated the whistle and held it for 15-20 seconds to give the whistle some exercise.  The next time I activated the whistle I got no response at all.  I think my problem lies in the MDK-031 circuit board that controls the whistle but I lack sufficient knowledge to trouble shoot the board.  I guess I'll have to search for a replacement board.  Trainz, the current repository for K-Line parts left after the company's demise does not have one listed.  Any suggestions on trouble shooting or alternative replacements would be appreciated.

Next is a new to me Weaver Genuine Ford Parts 50 foot box car that I picked up to go along with the Mopar and Chevy Parts box cars I already owned.

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These Weaver box cars run pretty light so I need to add weight to NMRA standards and paint the scribed black plastic a more realistic wood tone.  I've done this to the other two already.  This should be a relatively easy one but it's still on the work bench.

Lastly, I really like the K-Line Plymouth switchers but I don't usually like the price tags on the secondary market.  This guy was on eBay with a 3 car set at a starting bid of $100.  I checked the listing to make sure it was a functioning engine and placed a bid I was comfortable making without checking all the pictures.  Well this little guy has some issues.  Missing pilot foot board, one missing ladder rail, a bent handrail along the hood and both front marker lights are broken off.

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Here's the good news.  Last year I won an eBay auction for a lot of Plymouth parts from NYC No. 80.  Included in that lot was cab, hood, foot boards, and the missing and bent handrails.  Yeah!  I also found the marker lamps, without lenses, on Trainz.com.  All I have to do is figure out how to change and procure the broken light bulbs.  My biggest concern is the lobster claws, front and back.  I have two other Plymouths, One came in a set with ore cars and still wears "scale" couplers front and back because the ore cars have the same "scale" couplers. The other came to me with the "scale" coupler on the front and a lobster claw on the rear and a spare lobster claw for the front, no spare "scale" coupler.  I would not mind the lobster claws on my new Plymouth but all three pieces of rolling stock that came in the set are equipped with scale couplers.  These cars appear to be S scale and look great behind the Plymouth but won't be interchanging with any other equipment I own so I need to get some "scale" couplers for this Plymouth.  The issue is K-Line had their own 'scale" couplers manufactured.  The ones on the rolling stock are very similar to Kadees but the couplers on the switcher mount differently than any Kadee I've seen.  See the little tabs on the side for the mounting screws.  If I can't find a pair of replacements I'll have to come up with some sort of alternative.

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Coach, I would bet that Bob RSJB would be able to provide some insight.

+ @coach joe-  They came stock with a standard dummy coupler. Some of mine (6) had a set of operable couplers in the box.

I just looked through my stock and I have a pair of those Kadee style couplers, one is broken but they're yours if you want them. I doubt I'll ever switch my fleet over to Kadees.

Drop me an email or PM.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

So I guess this is work bench related. Today I pulled my pile of O&M manuals, receipts, and miscellany off the shelf next to my bench and organized it all in a file box. I recently pulled the box out of my attic and tossed all of the old bills and receipts dating back to 1998......

I started updating my Train inventory as I went too. I've promised the CEO that I would get all of this organized so that when she's sees what I've really spent, she can kill me and know the value......

I still have to go through a big stack of Trainz receipts..... Yea...I said BIG!

2025-02-01 18.34.31

Bob

The stack has been added to the inventory and filed away... 40 receipts.....but who's counting.....

I still need to go through the rest of my purchases both new and from the other usual sources, including the Forum. Onward!

Bob

@BenLMaggi posted:

Here is a Bangor & Aroostook Railroad (BAR) converted troop sleeper caboose I have been working on. It started off as an Atlas car and I modified the side windows, cut open the end vestibules and added scratchbuilt bulkhead doorways, added scratchbuilt bay windows, and did some other modifications.  It just needs its two-rail trucks swapped for three-rail trucks and couplers (which I recently obtained) and then the corner steps need to be added.

BAR caboose

Are you the Benjamin Maggi who recently became a NMRA Master Model Railroader (MMR)?  If so, congrats - it's quite an achievement.

How about background buildings on the workbench?  The ones standing are from a Korber Power and Electric office building cut in half on my new bandsaw. The other is a Korber background apartment building just out of the box (new this Christmas). The resin casting moves quite a bit, so needs support to square up the building.  I am using 3mm ply (primed both sides) for the floors and roof. 1/4 inch square basswood provides support for the corners.  This was the first time Rustoleum spray primer did not want to stick for me, I presume it has something to do with the resin. Krylon spray primer and an airbrush acrylic primer seemed to work much better.  I am going to try airbrushing on the brick color with added color variation and weathering to create more visual interest. Superglue seems to work well, but I am adding a thin gusset of e6000 on the inside corners for added flexure strength.

background buildings workbench

note - there is a youtube video on a Korber build also identifying an issue with the primer on this resin.

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