On the workbench my current 19 degree crossover track. 2 rail O scale, code 100.
nine frogs later it ain’t as bad as the last attempt ! next is gaping and wiring.
stained ties are waiting.
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On the workbench my current 19 degree crossover track. 2 rail O scale, code 100.
nine frogs later it ain’t as bad as the last attempt ! next is gaping and wiring.
stained ties are waiting.
Alex,
That looks like a major pain in the tush! But at least the screws are accessible. How do you get the C-clips off the pins and back on them? It does not appear to be much room to work.
Chris
LVHR
@lehighline posted:Alex,
That looks like a major pain in the tush! But at least the screws are accessible. How do you get the C-clips off the pins and back on them? It does not appear to be much room to work.
Chris
LVHR
Hi Chris,
It's a very tedious job to perform . Also these Acela's have the zinc rot issue , have to be extremely careful when handling the journals. As for the e clips have to do all work under a magnifier, and it's still a slow go trying to get the e clips back on. I use mini long nose pliers and mini screwdrivers.
Alex
THAT is one complex truck!
I would have lost at least one of those clips for sure
Zinc pest in those??? Good grief! Talk about an expensive paperweight. Are replacement parts available? If not, is there a way to make either a 3D printed replacement or resin cast the replacement? Might be worthwhile looking into, as I'll bet you are not the only one with the problem.
Chris
LVHR
@lehighline posted:Zinc pest in those??? Good grief! Talk about an expensive paperweight. Are replacement parts available? If not, is there a way to make either a 3D printed replacement or resin cast the replacement? Might be worthwhile looking into, as I'll bet you are not the only one with the problem.
Chris
LVHR
Wait til the "true collector" who bought one of these Acelas unseals it from the shipping carton for the first time in 10 years from now. Sad such an expensive item can have this zinc rot but I am not surprised. Can you imagine the look on someone's face when He finds side frames in pieces?
@jini5 posted:Wait til the "true collector" who bought one of these Acelas unseals it from the shipping carton for the first time in 10 years from now. Sad such an expensive item can have this zinc rot but I am not surprised. Can you imagine the look on someone's face when He finds side frames in pieces?
One more reason I'm glad I passed on this troublesome set.
Whatever happened to the KISS concept? Can't charge enough for it as we add all our bells and whistles?
Watching Alex do that reminds me of a time when GM stuffed a large engine in a small body car and you had to pull the engine to change the plugs. Back when you had to change plugs. No consideration given to maintenance.
Gerry
Well I did an unnecessary repair today. My Premier PS3 SP Cab Forward came from the factory with a black painted knockoff Pittman. I had a spare ball bearing 9234 Pittman so I swapped it in. Was it necessary? No. But all my other steam locomotives have Pittmans (even if they didn't come with a Pittman from the factory), so I made it match the rest of the fleet 😉.
@Rob Leese posted:
The Frisco railroad passenger car roster included a lot of round roofed cars, especially headend cars. I do not expect to find this style of car in Frisco livery, so I patiently search for bargains. I do not know which manufacturer made this RPO pictured above. It has a wood roof and stamped metal sides. Actually quite realistic as compared to several other manufacturers.
It was made as 2-rail...
"...wood roof and stamped metal sides..." I'm gonna guess Walthers...nice. 🙂
Mark in Oregon
I finally replaced a proto coupler that's been broken since I bought the engine. Of course it was the rear one and wouldn't close, so it's like having a new engine since I can finally pull with it.
@gmorlitz posted:Whatever happened to the KISS concept? Can't charge enough for it as we add all our bells and whistles?
Watching Alex do that reminds me of a time when GM stuffed a large engine in a small body car and you had to pull the engine to change the plugs. Back when you had to change plugs. No consideration given to maintenance.
Gerry
Amen!!!!
@Rob Leese posted:
Nice work
Right now my custom 3D printed set of Rock Island TAs (with frames and trucks salvaged from postwar Lionel Alcos) are still sitting on my workbench. I just finished building them but I want to do more. Right now they're just as simple as possible-- a Lionel Pullmor motor and LED headlights-- but I'm considering adding command control and sound to them as well. While I'm at it I could put in a flasher circuit for the Mars lights as well. Big decisions!
On my virtual workbench in Fusion 360, I'm designing some parts for a much-requested 3d-printed kit, the McKeen motor car. I'm trying to figure out how to graft some new sideframes onto some of the power trucks that I have on hand. The unequal wheel sizes of the McKeen add complexity to the design process!
edited to correct grammar
@Trainguy Ken posted:Right now my custom 3D printed set of Rock Island TAs (with frames and trucks salvaged from postwar Lionel Alcos) are still sitting on my workbench. I just finished building them but I want to do more. Right now they're just as simple as possible-- a Lionel Pullmor motor and LED headlights-- but I'm considering adding command control and sound to them as well. While I'm at it I could put in a flasher circuit for the Mars lights as well. Big decisions!
On my virtual workbench in Fusion 360, I'm designing some parts for a much-requested 3d-printed kit, the McKeen motor car. I'm trying to figure out how to graft some new sideframes onto some of the power trucks that I have on hand. The unequal wheel sizes of the McKeen add complexity to the design process!
edited to correct grammar
This is really something Ken.
It's hard for me to fathom how you can do 3d-printing like this. Really nice work on those TAs.
I recently fixed a K-line MP-15 that wasn't working. I bought it used and it has been a shelf queen. The demo paint is a winner so I kept it. I decided to see what was wrong recently and it turned out to be a simple fix. After stripping out the parallel/ series switch (all of my K-line's are series wired), and sound board, I found a bad solder joint on one of the triacs. After a quick hit with the soldering iron, I have another working loco.
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