WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

@mike g. As long as you have a object you want to replicate creating a mold is relatively easy. In this case since the guy was out of business I thought I would be fine to use his column as a template.  Keep looking at 3d printers. I keep looking but since I never learned any CAD well enough I did not think it was a reasonable buy. But need to keep on learning to keep the grey matter functioning - so maybe.

@TrainWatcher The mold released the casting in great shape. I do not know how many you could get out of one, but at this point I could see making at least 10 with no issues. I presume the details would gradually be lost over multiple castings. I have heard the latex molds age so that after 6 to 12 months of storage they can get brittle, then you are done.

@ScoutingDad posted:

@mike g. As long as you have a object you want to replicate creating a mold is relatively easy. In this case since the guy was out of business I thought I would be fine to use his column as a template.  Keep looking at 3d printers. I keep looking but since I never learned any CAD well enough I did not think it was a reasonable buy. But need to keep on learning to keep the grey matter functioning - so maybe.

@TrainWatcher The mold released the casting in great shape. I do not know how many you could get out of one, but at this point I could see making at least 10 with no issues. I presume the details would gradually be lost over multiple castings. I have heard the latex molds age so that after 6 to 12 months of storage they can get brittle, then you are done.

Jeff thank you sir! I did cad back in high school and that was it. But looking around there are plenty of places to get free plans for printing things. They even have a 3D library here on OGR that I think would have most of what a person would need to print for a layout. I also learned today that there are people out there willing to do the hard work around the world for around $5 and up. Once you pay for the file its yours to do whatever you want with it!

We used to make molds using liquid latex as kids, then plaster to make the object.

Smooth On has dozen of mold making compounds and just as many resins to fill those molds. Resolution is nearly perfect to the original. And than can make dozens of reproductions.

Pete

I have a target signal that stopped working. Before I pulled it out I wanted to check for loose wiring under the table.

So I put my Blink camera on the layout. With everything powered up I sat under the table checking for loose connections. As I pressed on each connection I looked at the camera view from my phone to see if the target lit up.

Alas no luck so I will put in a new target signal.

Blink camera facing the block target.

View from my phone under the layout.

Good idea to be in two places at once!

@mike g. posted:

Jeff thank you sir! I did cad back in high school and that was it. But looking around there are plenty of places to get free plans for printing things. They even have a 3D library here on OGR that I think would have most of what a person would need to print for a layout. I also learned today that there are people out there willing to do the hard work around the world for around $5 and up. Once you pay for the file its yours to do whatever you want with it!

Mike, you learned some CAD in High School!!!    We didn't even have any computer classes and we learned to type on manual typewriters!  I must be older than I thought!!   While the above is true, I'll stop poking fun and get on a serious note.  I would go for the OGR and other libraries and forgo trying to learn CAD at this point. 

@Norton posted:

We used to make molds using liquid latex as kids, then plaster to make the object.

Smooth On has dozen of mold making compounds and just as many resins to fill those molds. Resolution is nearly perfect to the original. And than can make dozens of reproductions.

Pete

Pete, SmoothOn is who our artist daughter has used when buying mold compounds.  She discussed it almost ad nauseum on trips back and forth to college.  I don't remember why, but she tried to mix dissimilar products for molds or the parts she was pouring.  Now it's been 10 years since she was using what is now my train room as her mad scientist laboratory! 

Oh, I almost forgot to compliment Jeff @ScoutingDad for the nice job on the portal and the column made from your mold.  Your first attempts are looking good!

The CB&Q built 60 of this type baggage car in their Havelock shops. #990-1009 were assigned to Zephyr service and were painted aluminum.  The other 40 cars were dark green.
This car was part of an MTH two car (RPO and baggage) set with beautiful paint and details.  The boxes are long-gone so I do not know the set number.  
I am boxing up a lot of cars to sell in the upcoming Grapevine Train-a-Palooza show,  and this car was supposed to be included…the RPO will be for sale, but this baggage car is just too nice to let go.  It was originally AT&SF and was part of a very nice Fast Mail train.  The Fast Mail is leaving to make room for all the Ft Worth & Denver projects I have going.

Off the workbench and back home with the owner is the Santa Fe Lionel tugboat  I converted to the EDNA G.

Built in 1896 by the Cleveland Ship Building Company, the EDNA G. was the last steam driven tugboat in operation on the Great Lakes when it was retired in 1981.   She currently is owned  by the City of Two Harbors and is moored in the harbor.  

Named after the daughter, Edna Greatsinger, of the President of the Duluth & Iron Range Railroad, this tugboat is still in operating condition.  Operating with a crew of four, the EDNA G. was used around the clock to help bring boats to the ore docks, move boats around from dock to dock and to assist in life saving efforts.  Since the early ore docks were constructed of wood, a water gun was mounted on the upper back deck to fight fires.

The boat is currently listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The EDNA G. resting in Two Harbors - June 1, 2017.  Picture taken by my friend.   He is also the one who requested the repaint.

The conversion was a promise to him in exchange for a LV MTH Big Hook rail car which I recently converted to the DM&IR Big Hooke - 7.   Both were fun project!

It came in the box as a Lionel Santa Fe Tugboat and went home as the EDNA G.

Cheers, Dave

The Edna G. Looks great, Dave.  Thank you for the history.

Over the last couple of months I finished assembling the White Tower restaurant kit from Twin Whistle Sign & Kit Company and detailed it with gooseneck lamps and an LED interior light from Woodland Scenics.  My local hobby shop helped me solve the "light leak" problem in the tower by gluing a piece of black styrene to the underside of the tower's roof piece.  Here's a "night photo" I took on my workbench during the kit's assembly.

I furnished the interior with the items that Twin Whistle included with the kit as well as additional items purchased on Etsy, namely a bar and stools, two tables and stools and a commercial stove.  The people came from Woodland Scenics except the cook, waiter and waitress that were purchased from Model Tech Studios.  Here's how the interior looked before I installed the building's shell over it.

Here are some up close photos after I completed assembling everything.

Memo to model railroad manufacturers:

• We need more people of color figures; there aren't that many on the market right now. I refuse to model a "Jim Crow" era restaurant, so I used a brown Sharpie to create two African-American customers who you see sitting at a window-side table.  (I hope my African-American model RR friends won't take offense at my results.)
• We also need more individual figures of people who work in restaurants or even packages of restaurant employees.  I hunted quite a bit for some on the Internet during December and January.  I found Model Tech Studios is about the only place advertising and stocking any individual O-scale restaurant figures for sale.

Pat, your White Tower looks great inside and out.  The interior details make me want to stop in for a burger and shake!

Wrapping up my PS/2 Test-Set project.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Wrapping up my PS/2 Test-Set project.

Hello gunrunnerjohn,

Sounds interesting - is it for testing/troubleshooting PS2/3 electronics?

@FortyFivePalms posted:

Sounds interesting - is it for testing/troubleshooting PS2/3 electronics?

Yep, you can see it all here.  With the unavailability of the factory test-sets, I decided to see if I could fill the void.

A new PS/2 & PS32 Board Test Set Arrives!

Thanks to the assistance of the great @RSJB18 I found a better fuel tank from a Lionel nw-2 that fit perfectly on my k-line mp-15. Part provided by Trainz.

@Donnie Kennedy posted:

Thanks to the assistance of the great @RSJB18 I found a better fuel tank from a Lionel nw-2 that fit perfectly on my k-line mp-15. Part provided by Trainz.

It takes a Village.......Happy to help out.

A really great looking PW GG 1 number 2460.  A friend passed, this was in their attic for who knows how long.  His wife asked me to help dispose of it.  Lubed and placed on track, it dragged itself along.  One motor wasn't turning.   Reset it in the mount, there was no grease of any kind.  Now it runs but the offending motor requires a few more volts before it starts turning.   Got sick so left it alone, will go back to it this weekend.

More GARX insulated boxcars.

Upgraded my MTH PS1 SP AC-6 to PS2. Detailing consisted of blackening the cut bar, handrails and drivers. Also added real glass to the front windows, swapped out the red class lights for green and added lenses to the housings.

Pete

@Norton posted:

Upgraded my MTH PS1 SP AC-6 to PS2. Detailing consisted of blackening the cut bar, handrails and drivers. Also added real glass to the front windows, swapped out the red class lights for green and added lenses to the housings.

Pete

WOW...I'm a diesel guy but that loco is gorgeous! Nice work!

@RSJB18 posted:

Pulled an engine off the shelf today that needed work. It's a Lionel MPC era (I think) Deleware and Hudson RS-3. Base model with the motors in the trucks. It has a really bad horn too.

I had re-wired the motors in series a while back and couldn't get the engine to run. I hit the proverbial wall with it so before the engine hit the actual wall....I closed it up to live to see another day.

So I pulled it apart today and started dissecting the wiring. I had a dead short across the power side so I went to the beginning and worked my way up. Dropped a truck and found the problem immediately. The motor leads and power leads are reversed from what I expected. The trucks have 4 wires, red, black, blue, yellow. Typically for all engines I've done before, red/ black are power, and blue/ yellow are the motor.

Well leave it to Lionel to reverse the pairs.......

So with that sorted out, I corrected the splices and put the engine back together. Quite a mess of wire for such a basic engine.

Runs reasonably slow at 8v for a conventional engine.

Bob

Lionel's "cheap" RS-3 is one of the more under-appreciated basic locos around. Excellent body shell tooling, OK handrails if they are the metal bversion (but oh, those pilots need some love), excellent "Alco" ( AAR) truck side frames - reasonably durable, too, if not PW anvil-tough. The motors are more prototypical in their location than any other platform of which I am aware - traction motors mounted low and transversely at the truck axles. I have owned a couple, and still want to ERR one of them (I have done a Lionel 0-4-0 with ERR, and its motor is similar to the RS-3's).

Unless I am misinformed (say it isn't so!), old Lionel PW transformers start at 6 volts, which makes it hard to run many of the basic can-motored modern locos at anything like low speed. I can run one of these conventionally at less than light speed using my Lionel Powermaster, which does not start at 6 volts. It won't creep, mind you, but it doesn't have to fly, either.

Your D&H behaves very well.

@D500 posted:

Lionel's "cheap" RS-3 is one of the more under-appreciated basic locos around. Excellent body shell tooling, OK handrails if they are the metal bversion (but oh, those pilots need some love), excellent "Alco" ( AAR) truck side frames - reasonably durable, too, if not PW anvil-tough. The motors are more prototypical in their location than any other platform of which I am aware - traction motors mounted low and transversely at the truck axles. I have owned a couple, and still want to ERR one of them (I have done a Lionel 0-4-0 with ERR, and its motor is similar to the RS-3's).

Unless I am misinformed (say it isn't so!), old Lionel PW transformers start at 6 volts, which makes it hard to run many of the basic can-motored modern locos at anything like low speed. I can run one of these conventionally at less than light speed using my Lionel Powermaster, which does not start at 6 volts. It won't creep, mind you, but it doesn't have to fly, either.

Your D&H behaves very well.

This was re-wired in series which makes a huge difference. I've done the same with all of my K-line locos.

I'm using a KW for power which starts between 6-8v.

I'm about to install a LC/bluetooth board in a Weaver RS3. It's an affordable alternative for command control in low end engines if desired. Universal remote or smartphone control with the LC app for under $100......

Bob

I'm building a platform on wheels to hold the Christmas tree and my polar express up off the floor.  The robot vacuum chews up the skirt and we lost our cat that liked to sleep under the tree and derail the train.  Without the cat, the only obstacle is the vacuum.  This should solve that and I can finally put a train under the tree.  

Keeping it simple this morning.

Greased with  Red and Tacky ,  oiled bearing surfaces  ,  backing out ground screws and adding E-Z Lube 99981 to them and pickup rollers .   Installed temporary green MTH battery until BCR2 comes in mail.

   20-3120-1 has come new in box with no wear all the way back from the early 2000s........now new to me.   Gotta treat the old girl with TLC.

God speed all.

My CEO 💖 was fascinated by this MTH 30-5228 BUMP-n-GO she found at the VFM on Friday.  She never saw one before .   So this was her turn to get desert on this Lenten Friday

The need to go along with the Christmas layout Polar Express necessitated the inclusion of elves instead of the normal window silhouettes .

Also going to use the Gunrunner's lighting module and LED strip for much needed improvement in the interior lighting.

Still need to introduced snow on the roof .

God Speed all.

Starting to scratch build a board-and-batten building.  Think it will be a background building.

@Dallas Joseph posted:

My CEO 💖 was fascinated by this MTH 30-5228 BUMP-n-GO she found at the VFM on Friday.  She never saw one before .   So this was her turn to get desert on this Lenten Friday

The need to go along with the Christmas layout Polar Express necessitated the inclusion of elves instead of the normal window silhouettes .

Also going to use the Gunrunner's lighting module and LED strip for much needed improvement in the interior lighting.

Still need to introduced snow on the roof .

God Speed all.

Dallas you are so accommodating to your wife; you really spoil her.

Jay

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Dallas you are so accommodating to your wife; you really spoil her.

Jay

Jay..........if your comment is done with sincerity .................I'll see if she will give you her email address .       She loves to look at model railroad stuff as much as I do and sometimes she is as good at initiating it as Apples55.

@Scott Jackson posted:

Starting to scratch build a board-and-batten building.  Think it will be a background building.

Looking good Scott.

( I can smell hickory smoke coming from a rooftop pipe already sir. )

God Speed in your endeavors. 

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Jay..........if your comment is done with sincerity .................I'll see if she will give you her email address .       She loves to look at model railroad stuff as much as I do and sometimes she is as good at initiating it as Apples55.

Even more impressive!

........come on Polar Express December 2024.

Dallas, it looks great with the LED lighting and snow! 👍🏻

@Dallas Joseph posted:

........come on Polar Express December 2024.

That looks like a great party.....can I join in?

Nice work on the upgrades Dallas. It can be Christmas year round you know......

Bob

Great work everyone!

I wasnt going to comment, but @Dallas Joseph really hit it out of the park with his and his CEO's bump and go car! Just love it!

Couple threads running about populating the new Lionel LC+2.0 Doodlebug. I'm starting with an upgrade on a nice MPC Baby Madison coach that will get pulled behind the Bug, which will get passengers soon too.

I had repaired this car and added a second powered truck a while back. It didn't have couplers when I bought it but I found them recently.

I bought a K-line interior to use for the upgrade and went to work on it today with my Dremel and other implements of destruction....

I had to reverse the seating area so I split it in half in order to line up the walls with the window openings.

The BEEP men are a little bit tall so they will get a double leg-ectomy and a butt reduction......the women fit perfectly in a MPC coach.

RPO Cargo area was next. I did more surgery on the seating area to make it fit.

Finally I cut away the white plastic window shell and will install K-line window films with blinds. An LED lighting install will be included too with one of @Rod Stewart "s lighting regulators. I'm waiting for parts to arrive from Aliexpress to complete this.

To be continued.....

Bob

Bob, it looks like you are making good headway with cutting and fitting on the donor parts for the Madison car!

@RSJB18 posted:

Couple threads running about populating the new Lionel LC+2.0 Doodlebug. I'm starting with an upgrade on a nice MPC Baby Madison coach that will get pulled behind the Bug, which will get passengers soon too.

I had repaired this car and added a second powered truck a while back. It didn't have couplers when I bought it but I found them recently.

I bought a K-line interior to use for the upgrade and went to work on it today with my Dremel and other implements of destruction....

I had to reverse the seating area so I split it in half in order to line up the walls with the window openings.

The BEEP men are a little bit tall so the will get a double leg-ectomy and a butt reduction......the women fit perfectly in a MPC coach.

RPO Cargo area was next. I did more surgery on the seating area to make it fit.

Finally I cut away the white plastic window shell and will install K-line window films with blinds. An LED lighting install will be included too with one of @Rod Stewart "s lighting regulators. I'm waiting for parts to arrive from Aliexpress to complete this.

To be continued.....

Bob

Looking really good Bob, one day I will have to look this back up just to see how I am going to have to do the ones I bought, but never opened ! LOL

@Mark Boyce posted:

Dallas, it looks great with the LED lighting and snow! 👍🏻

@RSJB18 posted:

That looks like a great party.....can I join in?

Nice work on the upgrades Dallas. It can be Christmas year round you know......

Bob

@mike g. posted:

Great work everyone!

I wasnt going to comment, but @Dallas Joseph really hit it out of the park with his and his CEO's bump and go car! Just love it!

Thank you Mark , Bob  and  Mike. Well appreciated guys.

The lighting was begining to be a real issue for my aging gray matter until I dismantled the OEM system and remembered GRJ's solutions to dim , flickering lights.

( and Bob....the CEO 💖 says it is Christmas year round )

@RSJB18 posted:

Couple threads running about populating the new Lionel LC+2.0 Doodlebug. I'm starting with an upgrade on a nice MPC Baby Madison coach ...........

To be continued.....

Bob

Now this is a REAL use of gray matter and art appreciation.   Nice job on the photos and info.

Really good thing happening here Bob.   

I got this Premier Climax from Trainz for a great price. I was really happy to get it as this is one of the few locomotives on my must have list! This is a 5 volt PS2 model and when it arrived it would not power up, bummer, but I was going to upgrade it anyway. So, on the self it went until MTH had stacker boards in stock. Fast forward a month and my stacker board arrived so on the workbench it went! The tender is very small but the stacker board did fit with a little trimming of the mounting bracket. I can now run this loco with DCS or DCC, I wish a bigger speaker would fit as the sounds are not all that loud but it's already tight in there!

Anyway, here is the test run with the extended start up and shutdown sounds, oh, and lots of smoke!

@Darrell posted:

I got this Premier Climax from Trainz for a great price. I was really happy to get it as this is one of the few locomotives on my must have list! This is a 5 volt PS2 model and when it arrived it would not power up, bummer, but I was going to upgrade it anyway. So, on the self it went until MTH had stacker boards in stock. Fast forward a month and my stacker board arrived so on the workbench it went! The tender is very small but the stacker board did fit with a little trimming of the mounting bracket. I can now run this loco with DCS or DCC, I wish a bigger speaker would fit as the sounds are not all that loud but it's already tight in there!

Anyway, here is the test run with the extended start up and shutdown sounds, oh, and lots of smoke!

Shes beautiful! How did you configure the stacker board? Do you have a TIU and remote? I really want to upgrade my PS2 locomotive but I dont have a TIU or remote. Im not spending crazy money on eBay for one either as MTH some decade is releasing their new unit which I have on pre-order. Hoping these new units well let me/us program chips.

Unrelated, I have a Williams locomotive that I am toying with upgrading to TMCC. Ive been reading all these threads and I think ERR has everything I need to be successful.

Yes, I have a rev L TIU. Unfortunately my buttons only sometimes work on my remote, wore the poor thing out! I used to use ERR for upgrades, nothing really wrong with them. I have switched to DCC for my upgrades now , the sounds are way better and the control systems are available ( with hardware remotes no less). Once all my 45 loco's are converted to DCS PS3/DCC I will probably sell off my TMCC/Legacy systems. With PS3 you can run in DCC mode and have just one system to run the layout. Would have to keep the TIU on the workbench to load sound files and configure stacker boards, but can then run them on DCC on the layout. The DCS remote is not needed to configure stacker boards or load sound files. Those tasks are done with a computer anyway. If you want to upgrade a MTH loco with a stacker board, MTH can for a small fee program the board for you, then your upgrade is plug and play, ready to go!

The climax is great, Darrell!!  Your upgrade program makes good sense.

I decided to paint the interior parts of the MPC coach.......I seem to have found the rabbit hole that Alice fell down.......

I did a first coat last night and will post some proof of activity when appropriate.

EDIT.....PIX!

I gave the parts a second coat of paint when I got home this evening. I'm using Testors enamel. The floors are dark brown and the walls are a lighter brown. I'm going to paint the seats dark green. Been a long time since I used Testors paint. The smell brought me back to my youth building Revell hot rods...😀😀

Bob

Am I the only one working on trains at the moment??????

Making good progress on the Madison coach interior. I finished the painting last night. The first coat of green on the seats was too light so I mixed some black in for the second coat. Also painted the sinks silver. Added a few figures in the cargo side. I will do the passengers next.

Lot's of discussion about the scale size of figures. The standing figure was knee-capped to bring him down to size. Both types are BEEP figures but the standing one's are much larger than the seated people. The standing man will is positioned to be looking out the door and shouldn't be visible from the other side of the car where the seated people are.

Also built my first lighting regulator. I bought kits from @Rod Stewart a while back. It went together quickly, just 6 components to solder to the board. Once the warm white LED strips I ordered arrive, I can wrap this project up. (The other 2 boards were removed after assembly. Made it easier to handle while soldering).

Bob

Bob, the interior work looks great!  I put Rod's lighting kits and LEDs in all 11 of my passenger cars, and they are quite an improvement.

@RSJB18 posted:

Am I the only one working on trains at the moment??????

Making good progress on the Madison coach interior. I finished the painting last night. The first coat of green on the seats was too light so I mixed some black in for the second coat. Also painted the sinks silver. Added a few figures in the cargo side. I will do the passengers next.

Lot's of discussion about the scale size of figures. The standing figure was knee-capped to bring him down to size. Both types are BEEP figures but the standing one's are much larger than the seated people. The standing man will is positioned to be looking out the door and shouldn't be visible from the other side of the car where the seated people are.

Also built my first lighting regulator. I bought kits from @Rod Stewart a while back. It went together quickly, just 6 components to solder to the board. Once the warm white LED strips I ordered arrive, I can wrap this project up. (The other 2 boards were removed after assembly. Made it easier to handle while soldering).

Bob

Looks good Bob, I like your color choices. Will you be doing the same for the Doodlebug?

Gene

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, the interior work looks great!  I put Rod's lighting kits and LEDs in all 11 of my passenger cars, and they are quite an improvement.

@Genemed posted:

Looks good Bob, I like your color choices. Will you be doing the same for the Doodlebug?

Gene

Thanks Mark.

Gene- The doodlebug will only get the back wall painted as others have suggested. The seats will remain as is.

Bob

I’m in the process of detailing the boom car that’s paired with my DMIR X-7 Big Hooke.    The car is a wonderfully detailed metal Lionel flat car with a wood deck.   I found at a train show for $10. I have added side panels and appropriate grab irons. Had to build a new brake wheel mount and fuel tank.    This week I constructed some spreader bars, hooks, cables and various other items to fill the car. Plan to order some rivet decals to dress up the spreader bars before painting and weathering.     

The actual crane and boom car are currently owned by the Wisconsin Great Northern RR, Trego, WI. This is the RR organization that’s rebuilding the Mark Twain Zephyr.  The Zephyr should be operational in the coming year.

The Youtube video of the crane in operation inspired me to add the detail.   Check it out. Railroad Wrecking Crane, DMIR X7, Inside Tour & Lifting A Great Northern Ranch Car

https://www.bing.com/videos/ri...9CFA2C&FORM=VIRE

Cheers and Happy Easter, Dave

Nice work! The boom tender is perfect for that crane. I did a similar crane/tender set in Erie. Yours look much nicer…

Tom

Producing a short high hood for a MTH C-630. The engine will eventually be in N&W blue…

I need to tweak the vents and sand some more. Waiting for a set of five chime airhorns to arrive.

Wasn’t sure if these engines had Leslie or Nathan horns…but they were five chime…

Tom

@Krieglok posted:

Nice work! The boom tender is perfect for that crane. I did a similar crane/tender set in Erie. Yours look much nicer…

Tom

Thanks Tom.   Have any pictures of your tender?   Would like to see what you did as I have more space to fill.   Always looking for more ideas!!

Cheers, Dave

PS:  Nice job on the C-630 or might it be a C-628?  

I've previously posted on my search for replacement switch motors for my DZ1000 and DZ2500. Not bad switch motors, they just fully throw the points around 90% of the time. Well the other 10% usually cause a derailment in the most inconvenient places. For my new layout, I have used Tortoises but have a few spots where the Tortoises would interfere with the underlying yard track.

During my search I learned about an MP series of switch motors that operate like the Tortoises but have a low profile and they turn off after reaching their full motion. So far I am positive on these motors. And I am able to use the Touch Toggles from Berrett Hills (previously posted in these).

Just a couple of short videos showing operation. They throw slowly. Their throw is adjustable from 6 to 12 mm. Factory default is 6mm, but I think 9mm may be optimal to provide enough pressure on the points.

The motor is attached to a thin plywood base (purchased separately)  and that is attached to the plywood roadbed. Both have adjustable screws to enable fine tuning of placement.

@darlander posted:

Thanks Tom.   Have any pictures of your tender?   Would like to see what you did as I have more space to fill.   Always looking for more ideas!!

Cheers, Dave

PS:  Nice job on the C-630 or might it be a C-628?  

You’re welcome, Dave. Here is my wrecker set. It was modeled an actual Erie crane and tender that is preserved here in NJ…

The spreader bar is a cable type and some cribbing added. Your bin for the actual model control pins is a great idea!

As far as the engine, I am not 100% sure how they differed, but the N&W had both. The 628s went to the C&NW while the 630s stayed with the N&W through out their career…

Tom

I finished the MPC coach yesterday. Some minor touch-ups to do but I'm happy with the results.

The K-line window films didn't work out so I used some clear sheet I had left over from a building kit. I did use a couple of them on the single windows.

The lighting looks good, the spill out into the vestibules was an added bonus.

Bob

@ScoutingDad posted:

I've previously posted on my search for replacement switch motors for my DZ1000 and DZ2500. Not bad switch motors, they just fully throw the points around 90% of the time. Well the other 10% usually cause a derailment in the most inconvenient places. For my new layout, I have used Tortoises but have a few spots where the Tortoises would interfere with the underlying yard track.

During my search I learned about an MP series of switch motors that operate like the Tortoises but have a low profile and they turn off after reaching their full motion. So far I am positive on these motors. And I am able to use the Touch Toggles from Berrett Hills (previously posted in these).

Just a couple of short videos showing operation. They throw slowly. Their throw is adjustable from 6 to 12 mm. Factory default is 6mm, but I think 9mm may be optimal to provide enough pressure on the points.

The motor is attached to a thin plywood base (purchased separately)  and that is attached to the plywood roadbed. Both have adjustable screws to enable fine tuning of placement.

Those motors look nice Jeff. How high are they? Looks like they have dry contacts for signals etc too?

Bob

Bob, the interior of the car looks great!

Jeff, the motors do look nice!  Nice movement of the switch points.  I have noticed the same thing as you with the DZ1000s that they are not as consistent as I would like.  On the other hand, all of my derailments have been because of user error! 🤦‍♂️

@Krieglok posted:

As far as the engine, I am not 100% sure how they differed, but the N&W had both. The 628s went to the C&NW while the 630s stayed with the N&W through out their career…

Tom

Tom, ALCO C-630 produced more horsepower and had greater tractive power over the C-628.     As I understand it, this required modification to the blower system. The C-630s had a reconfigured venting system on the hood bulge south of the cab. The Union Pacific sold 10 of their C-630 to the DM&IRR in the 70s as they experienced a power shortage due to EMD back logs on new power. I was able to find an MTH UP C-628 and did a little modification to turn it into a C-630.   Your engine is a C-628.  No problem since N&W had both.  Nice job on the modification.     I was determined to convert my find to a C-630.  

Before:

After:

You can check out my modification if you want more of the story:

https://ogrforum.com/...5#147690501401785585 6/23/20 8:43 PM

Cheers, Dave

Thanks Dave.

The intake grills are very obvious once you pointed the out. I will use your article as a guide to do the mods on my C-628. The larger intakes really add to the look of the engine. Thanks again!

Tom

@RSJB18 posted:

I finished the MPC coach yesterday. Some minor touch-ups to do but I'm happy with the results.

The K-line window films didn't work out so I used some clear sheet I had left over from a building kit. I did use a couple of them on the single windows.

The lighting looks good, the spill out into the vestibules was an added bonus.

Bob

That turned out very nice Bob. That’s going to look cool doodling behind your doodlebug.

Jay

@Mark Boyce @RSJB18  Mark and Bob,  following is a clip of the instructions. If you use music wire, that will have enough flexibility so freight cars can push the points aside without derailing. One thing I really like over the DZ (their tiny springs are too stiff) and a secondary reason I started to use the Tortoise motors.  The contacts are rated to 1 amp, although I was told the supplier knows of O scalers who use the contacts to power frogs with no issues - although he cannot recommend doing so due to the 1 amp continuous rating. Most likely ok because the power draw would be a momentary thing.  Dimensions are 2 1/4" x 2" (including the connector) x 3/4"  .

They have other versions slightly smaller and a $1 or so less,  but for a buck why not get the extra contact? US Supplier  This is the link to the outfit I bought these from. My LHS said they could not get them - I tried, oh well.  

@RSJB18 posted:

I finished the MPC coach yesterday. Some minor touch-ups to do but I'm happy with the results.

The lighting looks good, the spill out into the vestibules was an added bonus.

Bob

Dramatic improvement Bob ! 

@RSJB18 posted:

I finished the MPC coach yesterday. Some minor touch-ups to do but I'm happy with the results.

The K-line window films didn't work out so I used some clear sheet I had left over from a building kit. I did use a couple of them on the single windows.

The lighting looks good, the spill out into the vestibules was an added bonus.

Bob

Bob, a little tlc gave that car new life, excellent job! Now on to the Doodlebug😉

Gene

@ScoutingDad posted:

@Mark Boyce @RSJB18  Mark and Bob,  following is a clip of the instructions. If you use music wire, that will have enough flexibility so freight cars can push the points aside without derailing. One thing I really like over the DZ (their tiny springs are too stiff) and a secondary reason I started to use the Tortoise motors.  The contacts are rated to 1 amp, although I was told the supplier knows of O scalers who use the contacts to power frogs with no issues - although he cannot recommend doing so due to the 1 amp continuous rating. Most likely ok because the power draw would be a momentary thing.  Dimensions are 2 1/4" x 2" (including the connector) x 3/4"  .

They have other versions slightly smaller and a $1 or so less,  but for a buck why not get the extra contact? US Supplier  This is the link to the outfit I bought these from. My LHS said they could not get them - I tried, oh well. 

Jeff, thank you for the extended information.  It seems simple enough.  Famous last words!  😄😄

@RSJB18 posted:

I finished the MPC coach yesterday. Some minor touch-ups to do but I'm happy with the results.

The K-line window films didn't work out so I used some clear sheet I had left over from a building kit. I did use a couple of them on the single windows.

The lighting looks good, the spill out into the vestibules was an added bonus.

Bob

Bob why didn't the K-Line window strips work?  Blinds didn't line up with Lioenl windows?

@coach joe posted:

Bob why didn't the K-Line window strips work?  Blinds didn't line up with Lioenl windows?

That was part of it. I was able to get 4 blinds to just line up with the mullions. When I went to put them in, I missed the mark and smeared CA glue on them......next step was the circular file unfortunately. Hard to see in this photo but the 4 smaller blinds on the right of the strip covered 4 windows with a clear spot on the end. Would have looked nice had I not made a mess. The group of 4 blinds on the left of the strip didn't line up at all.
The plastic film was pretty scratched up so in end I may have pulled them out anyway.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

That was part of it. I was able to get 4 blinds to just line up with the mullions. When I went to put them in, I missed the mark and smeared CA glue on them......next step was the circular file unfortunately. Hard to see in this photo but the 4 smaller blinds on the right of the strip covered 4 windows with a clear spot on the end. Would have looked nice had I not made a mess. The group of 4 blinds on the left of the strip didn't line up at all.
The plastic film was pretty scratched up so in end I may have pulled them out anyway.

Bob

Ohh where do you get those seat inserts?? Would LOVE to do that with my Blue Comet cars!!

@pault posted:

Ohh where do you get those seat inserts?? Would LOVE to do that with my Blue Comet cars!!

It's a K-line seat kit. Found it on Trainz. It came with the light strip too but I used LED's instead.

@RSJB18 posted:

That was part of it. I was able to get 4 blinds to just line up with the mullions. When I went to put them in, I missed the mark and smeared CA glue on them......next step was the circular file unfortunately. Hard to see in this photo but the 4 smaller blinds on the right of the strip covered 4 windows with a clear spot on the end. Would have looked nice had I not made a mess. The group of 4 blinds on the left of the strip didn't line up at all.
The plastic film was pretty scratched up so in end I may have pulled them out anyway.

Bob

Glad but sad I'm not the only one who gets glue on windows and other parts where I don't want it. 

@Mark Boyce posted:

Glad but sad I'm not the only one who gets glue on windows and other parts where I don't want it. 

My hands aren't as steady as they used to be.....sucks getting old(er)......

I do that too.  For me, it's because my fingers have always had the dexterity of under-ripe bananas.

I know there's another thread running for populating a Doodlebug, but figured I'd close the loop on my project here.

I added the figures to my PRR car last night. Did the obligatory surgery to the figures as well. The back wall was painted flat black as @Steam Crazy John, suggested. The lights look too bright now, not sure if they can be dimmed unless I replace the power supply with one of my kits.

I had one smaller standing figure that looks like a child that I put at the back window, I need to move her back a little to be centered in the opening.

Fun project....on to the next one.

Bob

Looks great, Bob!

Recently on the work bench was my wife's, 50 year old, Kirby sweeper.  An interesting adventure in A/C motor repair.  Amazon had a very good, picture, parts detail. I had replacement parts in 3 days.  Dis-assembly, and cleaning, was interesting.  Surprisingly, re-assembly, with the new parts, was easy. I had one left hand (counter-clockwise thread) to negotiate.   Probably easier, than some of the model train work. Extensive work to the beater-bar area, with new gaskets.    Who would'a thunk, Mike CT.  Happy wife/happy life.   Back to model trains.

@Mike CT posted:

Recently on the work bench was my wife's, 50 year old, Kirby sweeper.  An interesting adventure in A/C motor repair.  Amazon had a very good, picture, parts detail. I had replacement parts in 3 days.  Dis-assembly, and cleaning, was interesting.  Surprisingly, re-assembly, with the new parts, was easy. I had one left hand (counter-clockwise thread) to negotiate.   Probably easier, than some of the model train work. Extensive work to the beater-bar area, with new gaskets.    Who would'a thunk, Mike CT.  Happy wife/happy life.   Back to model trains.

I've had my bench occupied by a vacuum or two as well.......Kirby's are worth the effort to fix.

@RSJB18 posted:

I know there's another thread running for populating a Doodlebug, but figured I'd close the loop on my project here.

I added the figures to my PRR car last night. Did the obligatory surgery to the figures as well. The back wall was painted flat black as @Steam Crazy John, suggested. The lights look too bright now, not sure if they can be dimmed unless I replace the power supply with one of my kits.

I had one smaller standing figure that looks like a child that I put at the back window, I need to move her back a little to be centered in the opening.

Fun project....on to the next one.

Bob

You have to be very pleased with this outcome Bob, it looks great. In the trailing car would you have room to pose a conductor collecting tickets?

Jay

Bob, nice work populating your Doodlebug and passenger car, looks great!  I like the child in the small window.  Also like Jay's (Tranquil Hollow RR) suggestion for a conductor, that would be a nice finishing touch.

John

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

You have to be very pleased with this outcome Bob, it looks great. In the trailing car would you have room to pose a conductor collecting tickets?

Jay

@Steam Crazy posted:

Bob, nice work populating your Doodlebug and passenger car, looks great!  I like the child in the small window.  Also like Jay's (Tranquil Hollow RR) suggestion for a conductor, that would be a nice finishing touch.

John

+ @Mark Boyce

Hmmmmm........I do have a set of WS figures. I'll have to see if one would look right. They are about twice the size of the BEEPs.

I guess no one would try and skip out on paying a fare though........

Thanks guys.

Finally found my unicorn! It's the Atlas high hood Wheeling and Lake Erie gp35. Bought it from a forum member at a very fair price.

First thing I did was hand make front wire hand rails. One was missing. The other,well,I had an opsy. Not an exact match, but close after a little coat of paint. 

Second, was replacing a missing walkway chain, and the other to match. I used 2mm jewelry chain from the ol Amazon.

Third and final item was replacing a missing sunshade and the other to match. Atlas just so happens to have these available for their dash 8. I got them, trimmed the insert a little. Got a nice fit, and painted black.

Definitely a nicely detailed model. I'm still missing a tiny window on the cab, but not too worried about it. o

Bob did you buy the K-Line interior kit or separate pieces?  As for the lights being too bright, years ago there was a post about using Tamiya Clear Orange or maybe Clear Yellow to tone down the bright LEDs available at the time.  Instinctively I would think it was Yellow or Amber but I have a jar of the Clear Orange so I'm thinking that's why I have it.

Very nice Donnie!

@coach joe posted:

Bob did you buy the K-Line interior kit or separate pieces?  As for the lights being too bright, years ago there was a post about using Tamiya Clear Orange or maybe Clear Yellow to tone down the bright LEDs available at the time.  Instinctively I would think it was Yellow or Amber but I have a jar of the Clear Orange so I'm thinking that's why I have it.

@coach joe

I used that orange as well. I bought red, orange, yellow. I found orange to be best.
Here is loading platform where I toned down the bright white bulb.

@coach joe posted:

Bob did you buy the K-Line interior kit or separate pieces?  As for the lights being too bright, years ago there was a post about using Tamiya Clear Orange or maybe Clear Yellow to tone down the bright LEDs available at the time.  Instinctively I would think it was Yellow or Amber but I have a jar of the Clear Orange so I'm thinking that's why I have it.

Yes- I need to order some Tamiya paint. Probably the simplest solution.

The whole interior was a kit, seating insert, light strip, and window films.

It's definitely the Clear Orange - one good thing about using the paint is that if it's still too bright after the first coat, you can keep applying multiple coats until you get exactly the brightness you're looking for.

It seems like every train I own needs to be on the work bench.  If it doesn't need lubrication or a tune up or a repair I have a real bad habit of seeing the need for modifications or enhancements to perfectly good trains.  The latest case in point a MTH RK gondola with junk load.

I finally got the train table cleared off and threw a 042 loop of 027 track on it and decided to run trains, never mind all the unfinished projects so I grab a Williams/Lionel hybrid Great Northern U36B off the shelf and the MTH RK Great Northern six pack out of the garage and I'm off running trains. YEA!  After a while the junk load in the gondola starts to bother me.  It is a really nice junk load but the color has started to bother me.  The casting used by MTH has lots of detail and to bring out the detail MTH used a black base coat and then a light gray top coat, enhancing the depth, nooks and crannies and detail they worked so hard to include.  To me it looks like snow on the load so now I'm thinking about spraying it a rust color.  Here comes the over thinking part.  A lot of the junk would have been painted, boiler front, air pumps, valves would have been painted and the big gear would be polished so would they be rusty or would I have to paint those items after spraying the load a rust color?  And then there is the car color,  would painting the load rust color look horrible in that orangey red gondola?  I know that would be of no concern to a real railroad but that's how I am.

@RSJB18 posted:

I know there's another thread running for populating a Doodlebug, but figured I'd close the loop on my project here.

I added the figures to my PRR car last night. Did the obligatory surgery to the figures as well. The back wall was painted flat black as @Steam Crazy John, suggested. The lights look too bright now, not sure if they can be dimmed unless I replace the power supply with one of my kits.

I had one smaller standing figure that looks like a child that I put at the back window, I need to move her back a little to be centered in the opening.

Fun project....on to the next one.

Bob

Looks good Bob, I’m waiting for the people to come in for mine. I’ll continue posting on the other thread. You have me thinking now about the bright lights. I’d like to do something before I put it back together.

Gene

@coach joe posted:

Bob did you buy the K-Line interior kit or separate pieces?  As for the lights being too bright, years ago there was a post about using Tamiya Clear Orange or maybe Clear Yellow to tone down the bright LEDs available at the time.  Instinctively I would think it was Yellow or Amber but I have a jar of the Clear Orange so I'm thinking that's why I have it.

Great idea Joe, I may have to give that a try.

Gene

@pennsyfan posted:

@coach joe

I used that orange as well. I bought red, orange, yellow. I found orange to be best.
Here is loading platform where I toned down the bright white bulb.

It does make a noticeable difference, did you just put a light brush over the led?

Gene

@Genemed posted:

It does make a noticeable difference, did you just put a light brush over the led?

Gene

Yes and then a second coat.

@RSJB18 posted:

Yes- I need to order some Tamiya paint. Probably the simplest solution.

The whole interior was a kit, seating insert, light strip, and window films.

Bob, I’m thinking about doing my MTH Doodlebug; is there a link for that kit?

@pennsyfan posted:

@coach joe

I used that orange as well. I bought red, orange, yellow. I found orange to be best.
Here is loading platform where I toned down the bright white bulb.

Looks good

Bob, I bought several of those K-Line interior kits from Brasseur to do the interiors of some Williams passenger cars.  I didn't remember they had the window strips.

This is the part number.

K-Line K4506A Cream Passenger Car Interior Insert Kit with Lighting Board

-

Bob

@coach joe posted:

It seems like every train I own needs to be on the work bench.  If it doesn't need lubrication or a tune up or a repair I have a real bad habit of seeing the need for modifications or enhancements to perfectly good trains.  The latest case in point a MTH RK gondola with junk load.

I finally got the train table cleared off and threw a 042 loop of 027 track on it and decided to run trains, never mind all the unfinished projects so I grab a Williams/Lionel hybrid Great Northern U36B off the shelf and the MTH RK Great Northern six pack out of the garage and I'm off running trains. YEA!  After a while the junk load in the gondola starts to bother me.  It is a really nice junk load but the color has started to bother me.  The casting used by MTH has lots of detail and to bring out the detail MTH used a black base coat and then a light gray top coat, enhancing the depth, nooks and crannies and detail they worked so hard to include.  To me it looks like snow on the load so now I'm thinking about spraying it a rust color.  Here comes the over thinking part.  A lot of the junk would have been painted, boiler front, air pumps, valves would have been painted and the big gear would be polished so would they be rusty or would I have to paint those items after spraying the load a rust color?  And then there is the car color,  would painting the load rust color look horrible in that orangey red gondola?  I know that would be of no concern to a real railroad but that's how I am.

Joe, I did mine a couple months back and layered weathering washes.  The picture doesn’t do justice to the variety of rust colors.

Gene

@coach joe posted:

After a while the junk load in the gondola starts to bother me.  It is a really nice junk load but the color has started to bother me.  The casting used by MTH has lots of detail and to bring out the detail MTH used a black base coat and then a light gray top coat, enhancing the depth, nooks and crannies and detail they worked so hard to include.  To me it looks like snow on the load so now I'm thinking about spraying it a rust color.  Here comes the over thinking part.  A lot of the junk would have been painted, boiler front, air pumps, valves would have been painted and the big gear would be polished so would they be rusty or would I have to paint those items after spraying the load a rust color?  And then there is the car color,  would painting the load rust color look horrible in that orangey red gondola?  I know that would be of no concern to a real railroad but that's how I am.

I'm with you -- very nice detail and black wash as is, but the color is a bit too uniform and bright IMHO. I don't think I'd fully repaint, though. Instead, I'd probably identify a few items that might have started with some different coloration, much as you detailed, and just add those spot colors where appropriate. Then, I'd dry brush most everything with some rust color or other variations, and finish with a black wash to tone the new colors down a bit.

I used a similar technique on some tunnel portals I crafted out of scrap styrofoam -- I first painted the base stone light gray, then highlighted random stones with various darker shades of brown and gray, and finally did a black wash over everything (and some dry brushed black to simulate the effects of coal smoke above the opening):

(Sorry for the photo quality -- it's a crop from a larger pic)

Hey,Coach Joe, I have that MTH junk load and I didn’t like it’s appearance either.  I used a combination of rust and black chalks to weather mine; I think it looks a lot better, but I can’t say I’m totally satisfied, it still has that cast in look.  Loose junk would be better, if you have some junk trains to break up.

John

@RSJB18 posted:

This is the part number.

K-Line K4506A Cream Passenger Car Interior Insert Kit with Lighting Board -

Bob

Thanks!

@pennsyfan posted:

Yes and then a second coat.

Thanks

So it seems as if rust and weathering all of it prevails.  No paint or color left on any of the scrap and even polished steel has succumbed to rust when no longer in service.

@Steam Crazy posted:

Hey,Coach Joe, I have that MTH junk load and I didn’t like it’s appearance either.  I used a combination of rust and black chalks to weather mine; I think it looks a lot better, but I can’t say I’m totally satisfied, it still has that cast in look.  Loose junk would be better, if you have some junk trains to break up.

Nice work -- I like the colors! I do think I'd finish it with a black wash (with wetting agent) around the protruding cast pieces, and let the black settle deep in the cracks and cover the flat areas on the bottom. That should better highlight and contrast the cast pieces you've so nicely weathered, and help minimize the "cast in" look. Good luck!