After having disassembled and modified dozens of passenger cars in my collection, I feel like an idiot for not figuring this out sooner. Near the ends of most passenger cars there is an aisleway to one side and the windows will often have a handrail. From now on, I plan to add this railing where appropriate because everything I buy is going to get “dinked with”. I can’t help it.
@Trainchief posted:
Thanks! That’s a really old Bar Mills sign. Looking for a nice die cast 1/48 Bell Telephone truck, any sources?
Billy C
That is really nice. Reminds me of the switching station where my father worked when he was with Bell.
Nothing. Finally got it cleaned up.
@RSJB18 posted:Started digging into my S2 switcher build. First up is to put sideframes and the pilot onto the rear truck. The engine was a Premier dummy that I'm repowering. The dummy trucks didn't have the worm drive and idler gears.
I sourced a Railking parts engine that happened to have one complete truck, and one without the frames. Easy right? I'll just use the Premier frames and pilot. NOT! The mounting holes are different on the two models.
The holes are close but don't match, and the Premier are top-mount, Railking bottom.Not sure if I want to try and drill the truck out or just find another truck. And of course, MTH doesn't have the parts list for any of these on the website yet.
The pilot has the matching holes but the holes in the truck are not tapped.
This is the complete RK truck
I also ordered jst-eh wiring harnesses from Ali-express for the ERR upgrade.
Bob
Bob, what a bummer. Some here have the skills to make this work. I do not. I think I would have to shelve it until parts are available or I found the proper engine to cannibalize.
@Mark Boyce posted:Bob, what a bummer. Some here have the skills to make this work. I do not. I think I would have to shelve it until parts are available or I found the proper engine to cannibalize.
I could too Mark, I just need to have the Harmon Shops at my disposal......
I was able to tap the hole for the pilot yesterday, easy stuff. The trucks are a different story. I'd have to butcher one or both sets of holes (frame and truck), to get screw holes that will work. Biggest issue is that the existing holes are just close enough that I can't drill new holes without the bit walking off into the existing. The tolerance left to right of the wheels is only about a 1/16" too so if I'm off just a little the brake shoes will hit the wheel.
Coupled with the fact that the frames have a different appearance from most 2-axel diesels. I'd wind up replacing them on both trucks if I mess one up. All of my 2-axel diesels have Bloomberg AAR style trucks. Alco used a truck designed by one of their engineers James Blunt, which is what MTH modeled.
So I'm searching for the correct truck that I can use instead. 
Bob
@RSJB18 You always have something going on at the workbench and I pickup a lot from your post! Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your adventures!
@RSJB18 posted:I could too Mark, I just need to have the Harmon Shops at my disposal......
Biggest issue is that the existing holes are just close enough that I can't drill new holes without the bit walking off into the existing. The tolerance left to right of the wheels is only about a 1/16" too so if I'm off just a little the brake shoes will
So I'm searching for the correct truck that I can use instead.
Bob
Yes, I thought of Harmon Shops! 😊
I hate that where the hole is too close to drill another. 🤦♂️
@T-Bone1214 @Tranquil Hollow RR
Thanks for the compliments and support. I couldn't do a lot of what I'm doing without the knowledge shared by others on the Forum. Happy to add my small pieces of advice where I can.
Bob
@MartyE posted:Nothing. Finally got it cleaned up.
A clean workbench is a sign of a sick mind... 
Mitch
@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:A clean workbench is a sign of a sick mind...
Mitch
Is it akin to a clean desk is a sign of an office worker who doesn’t do anything?? 🤔
@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:A clean workbench is a sign of a sick mind...
Mitch
It is good to know, then, that my mental health is in great shape.
My workbench is clean periodically, just doesn't stay that way long! 
@RSJB18 posted:The trucks are a different story. I'd have to butcher one or both sets of holes (frame and truck), to get screw holes that will work. Biggest issue is that the existing holes are just close enough that I can't drill new holes without the bit walking off into the existing.
@MartyE posted:Nothing. Finally got it cleaned up.
SHOW OFF!!!! 
@Randy Harrison posted:
- My possible solution to your aforementioned dilemma is as follows.
- Buy a 4:40 tap and some 4:40, brass machine screws that are longer than the thickness of the material into which the existing hole is drilled (or 6:32 brass machine screws if the existing hole is larger than a threaded 4:40 hole). The drill size for a 4:40 is a #43 drill and a 6:32 is a #36 drill.
- Enlarge your existing hole with the appropriately sized drill and tap the hole for the threads.
- Using a small amount of Epoxy on the threads of your brass machine screw (I recommend brass for the softness of the metal which will become obvious in the next paragraph) and carefully screw the Epoxy-laden screw into the newly drilled hole unit the bottom of the screw is exactly flush with the surface of the material into which it is being screwed.
- Let the Epoxy THOUROGHLY dry.
- Once the Epoxy is dry, cut off the top of the screw as close to the surface of the material into which the screw was inserted. The brass screw is the best for a easier cut.
- Using a fine-toothed file, file any part of the screw protruding the surface of the material into which the screw was inserted, so the cut screw is now even with that surface (again, the brass screw will be less resistant to the file.
- You are now left with a surface into which to drill your new hole that no longer has an existing, encroaching hole in the way. The brass screw plugging the existing hole is also less resistant to the drill for your new hole.
Thanks Randy. Makes perfect sense. I'm going to try and find the right truck from MTH first. If not, I may give this a shot.
Bob
I’m still adding to the little passenger train consist that is led by my recently purchased PRR Doodlebug from Lionel’s 2024 Catalog. Several weeks ago I showed my updates to my Lionel 9510 PRR Combo Mail/Passenger car. I then purchased a NIB 19002 PRR Dining Car. I bought a MTH dining car insert (all I could find) and did a lot of surgery to it. I cut out the cooking area, added an Arrista cook sans legs, and some pots/pans bought from Etsy. All of the pots/pans needed painted. For the dining area I had to cut off half the tables on one side in order to get them to fit. I painted on white tablecloths, added painted dishes and coffee cups, and then legless seated passengers. I bought an Arrista waiter, but decided not to add him since he’s much larger than the diners. The chef is by himself so he’s okay. I added a lady walking behind the kitchen area to ‘show’ that you can get to that car from the Doodlebug that’s in front of it. I put an LED light strip with a lighting regulator on the ceiling, some clear ‘glass’ and voila!
It looks decent when viewed at arms length I’ll readily admit it pales in comparison to some of the dining car upgrades posted here. My next project will be to populate a yet-to-buy PRR Passenger Car.
Update: I just bought a NIB Lionel 9515 Passenger Car on the bay. I'll be starting that project in mid-September.
@texgeekboy posted:I’m still adding to the little passenger train consist that is led by my recently purchased PRR Doodlebug from Lionel’s 2024 Catalog. Several weeks ago I showed my updates to my Lionel 9510 PRR Combo Mail/Passenger car. I then purchased a NIB 19002 PRR Dining Car. I bought a MTH dining car insert (all I could find) and did a lot of surgery to it. I cut out the cooking area, added an Arrista cook sans legs, and some pots/pans bought from Etsy. All of the pots/pans needed painted. For the dining area I had to cut off half the tables on one side in order to get them to fit. I painted on white tablecloths, added painted dishes and coffee cups, and then legless seated passengers. I bought an Arrista waiter, but decided not to add him since he’s much larger than the diners. The chef is by himself so he’s okay. I added a lady walking behind the kitchen area to ‘show’ that you can get to that car from the Doodlebug that’s in front of it. I put an LED light strip with a lighting regulator on the ceiling, some clear ‘glass’ and voila!
it looks decent when viewed at arms length I’ll readily admit it pales in comparison to some of the dining car upgrades posted here. My next project will be to populate a yet-to-buy PRR Passenger Car.
Nice work. I think it looks great.
Bob
What Bob said, looks great!
That’s a really great job on the diner!
Got another flat reworked. This old rundown grain storage warehouse started life as a Walthers Cornerstone building. It's due for a new sign this weekend.
The pealing paint effect on brick is great @Trainchief
Thanks! My first time using the peel paint look. Spray a little hairspray on the base coat and then put on your final coat over that. You're now ready to destroy your project by scrapping off the paint. It turned out much better than I anticipated. Learned the technique from the military model guys. They are great at weathering and paint peeling.
Came home to find my previously clean workbench covered with my son’s projects.
Trainchief, the building looks terrific.
I agree with Rod and that is impressive. You should post it tomorrow in the scenery section; specifically on “ Sunday Scenic Showcase “.
I chuckled when I saw your picture. I'm going to a meet tomorrow and am hoping to sell the coal elevator, lumber loader, and coal ramp!
@texgeekboy posted:I chuckled when I saw your picture. I'm going to a meet tomorrow and am hoping to sell the coal elevator, lumber loader, and coal ramp!
His plan is to do the same thing in a future show. It’s part of an estate he picked up.
@jstraw124 posted:Came home to find my previously clean workbench covered with my son’s projects.
EXCELLENT........ great to see new blood moving into the greatest hobby . 
@Dallas Joseph posted:EXCELLENT........ great to see new blood moving into the greatest hobby .
How true! I hope to have someone to pass the hobby to someday. 😢
Bob, that’s great Jon was able to help you out. We will be watching for your project reports.
A mess, I need to get it cleaned up! Sorry, not showing any pictures!😁
MTH - this Hudson in not painted - well, it is below the waist, but not the main castings (the nose fin only had been painted, however). I found it disassembled on eBay some years ago, minus all boards, with the little boiler/tender parts in plastic bags.There were almost no screws in the box, but I had all that I needed left over from my scratch-bashing activities (except the main boiler screws, which I found at Ace Hardware). I put ERR Cruise Commander in it, no sound, no smoke; operating coil coupler.
Lately I decided to letter it, and emulated the 5445 in Mercury service, as shown in 2 photos in Know Thy Hudsons. Apparently, cast zinc has the NYC Century gray dead to rights. The builders plates and the oval came in a bag, as well as the brass coupler cover. The piping was in place.
No casting paint here either. Brass coal cover doors.
Still no paint. The white stripes and aluminum lettering follow the prototype photos well enough. The road name is from an old Walthers NYC set.
Actually, it is painted now - it had 2 coats of Glosscote applied after I assembled and cleaned it, and some Dullcote after the decaling.
As received a few years back. I have trouble resisting this sort of thing. Enjoyable.
I had to do some rework on the front of my RI U boat. I have to touch up a couple of dings and it will be ready for decals. I may get around to decals this weekend.
I need the decorative horn and brake wheel. Any leads on a parts supplier for MPC stuff would be appreciated.
Very nice job D500 and Mike D! Paint jobs look great!
Decided to pull my Mi Loco K5 apart and do some repaining. It was a runner anyway, so I didn’t want this project to stall out. Picked this one up from Carey Williams last year. 1935 loco and big at 17/64ths scale. Going back together and next will be stripping the boiler and tender for some paint.
Re-started my S2 project......and then re-stopped........
The CEO was otherwise occupied today so except for a small detour to the MIL's house to hang a drape, I had some time at the bench today. Some mid-afternoon rain helped the cause as well.
I did the truck assembly, installed the frames, pilots, pick up wires, and Lionel electro-couplers.
Speaker and prog/run switch went into the fuel tank and the tank was installed.
I wired up the motors and tested them, again all is moving in the right direction.
Then I took a good look at the Cruise-commander and railsounds boards and the a aforementioned stop occurred. It doesn't look like the boards will fit under the small narrow hood of the S2...... I tried various arrangements but even if I could fit the boards, forget about connecting any wires. I even considered putting the RS board in the cab but then the engineer and conductor would have to run the train from the back porch. 
So unless I'm missing the obvious then I may drop back and punt on this engine getting an ERR upgrade and might try a Flyer-chief or Lionchief board.
At least I got to see it move.....
To be continued......
Bob
Bob, small success, but that’s a disappointment about the ERR boards 😢
@RSJB18 posted:Re-started my S2 project......and then re-stopped........
The CEO was otherwise occupied today so except for a small detour to the MIL's house to hang a drape, I had some time at the bench today. Some mid-afternoon rain helped the cause as well.
I did the truck assembly, installed the frames, pilots, pick up wires, and Lionel electro-couplers.
Speaker and prog/run switch went into the fuel tank and the tank was installed.I wired up the motors and tested them, again all is moving in the right direction.
Then I took a good look at the Cruise-commander and railsounds boards and the a aforementioned stop occurred. It doesn't look like the boards will fit under the small narrow hood of the S2...... I tried various arrangements but even if I could fit the boards, forget about connecting any wires. I even considered putting the RS board in the cab but then the engineer and conductor would have to run the train from the back porch.
So unless I'm missing the obvious then I may drop back and punt on this engine getting an ERR upgrade and might try a Flyer-chief or Lionchief board.
At least I got to see it move.....
To be continued......
Bob
Sounds like a frustrating effort Bob. If the only recourse is to use the cab then perhaps you could use a silhouette for the crew.
@Mark Boyce posted:Bob, small success, but that’s a disappointment about the ERR boards 😢
@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:Sounds like a frustrating effort Bob. If the only recourse is to use the cab then perhaps you could use a silhouette for the crew.
I decided to go with a Flyerchief board. Lionel made a Baldwin VO-1000 with decent sounds. It will give me bluetooth/ universal remote control, electro-couplers, and lights.
Now to decide what to put the ERR boards in.........
And for the record....I opened the Soundtraxx/ blunami site and took a look around.......
Thanks guys.
A new/old upgrade to my tool storage, courtesy of the New York office (Thanks, Eric!)
Mitch
@RSJB18 posted:Then I took a good look at the Cruise-commander and railsounds boards and the a aforementioned stop occurred. It doesn't look like the boards will fit under the small narrow hood of the S2...... I tried various arrangements but even if I could fit the boards, forget about connecting any wires. I even considered putting the RS board in the cab but then the engineer and conductor would have to run the train from the back porch.
So unless I'm missing the obvious then I may drop back and punt on this engine getting an ERR upgrade and might try a Flyer-chief or Lionchief board.
Dr. Moreau recommends a radical motor-ectomy! This is a small switcher. With a little weight and the dreaded rubber tires, it should still be able to pull 8-10 plastic freight cars. And without the 2nd motor in there, you should be able to mount the ERR and RailSounds boards in the long hood.
Make sure you keep the motor that is more responsive, the one that starts sooner. (Before you choose, you might give both motors a spritz of Deoxit D5 through the oval-shaped hole where the commutator is. That stuff has been shown to improve the performance of the ubiquitous RS-385s, especially ones that have accumulated some mileage.)
If you go the LionChief route let us know how you make out. There is no wrong approach as long as you're having fun. Thanks for sharing!!
@Ted S posted:Dr. Moreau recommends a radical motor-ectomy! This is a small switcher. With a little weight and the dreaded rubber tires, it should still be able to pull 8-10 plastic freight cars. And without the 2nd motor in there, you should be able to mount the ERR and RailSounds boards in the long hood.
Make sure you keep the motor that is more responsive, the one that starts sooner. (Before you choose, you might give both motors a spritz of Deoxit D5 through the oval-shaped hole where the commutator is. That stuff has been shown to improve the performance of the ubiquitous RS-385s, especially ones that have accumulated some mileage.)
If you go the LionChief route let us know how you make out. There is no wrong approach as long as you're having fun. Thanks for sharing!!
Ted, that last line says it all about this hobby!!!
@Ted S posted:Dr. Moreau recommends a radical motor-ectomy! This is a small switcher. With a little weight and the dreaded rubber tires, it should still be able to pull 8-10 plastic freight cars. And without the 2nd motor in there, you should be able to mount the ERR and RailSounds boards in the long hood.
Make sure you keep the motor that is more responsive, the one that starts sooner. (Before you choose, you might give both motors a spritz of Deoxit D5 through the oval-shaped hole where the commutator is. That stuff has been shown to improve the performance of the ubiquitous RS-385s, especially ones that have accumulated some mileage.)
If you go the LionChief route let us know how you make out. There is no wrong approach as long as you're having fun. Thanks for sharing!!
If you go back a page Ted you will see why I'm keeping two motors in this engine. I had actually considered running it with one motor if I didn't find the correct truck (which I did). So no shame in dropping back and punting. The ERR boards will find a home eventually.
I have one LC/BT upgrade under my belt with my RS3 so this should go well. What I learned from @Norton Pete, on here was that Flyerchief boards could be used in O gauge. My knowledge of AF was DC power so I didn't know that Flyerchief has a rectifier for AC/DC conversion. Bonus at this level of board is electro-couplers, which basic Lionchief boards don't include. Since the engine was being set up for ERR, I've already installed Lionel couplers and the correct speaker.
And yes, as @Mark Boyce confirmed, I'm having fun, fun, fun!
Thanks
@RSJB18 posted:If you go back a page Ted you will see why I'm keeping two motors in this engine. I had actually considered running it with one motor if I didn't find the correct truck (which I did). So no shame in dropping back and punting. The ERR boards will find a home eventually.
I have one LC/BT upgrade under my belt with my RS3 so this should go well. What I learned from @Norton Pete, on here was that Flyerchief boards could be used in O gauge. My knowledge of AF was DC power so I didn't know that Flyerchief has a rectifier for AC/DC conversion. Bonus at this level of board is electro-couplers, which basic Lionchief boards don't include. Since the engine was being set up for ERR, I've already installed Lionel couplers and the correct speaker.
And yes, as @Mark Boyce confirmed, I'm having fun, fun, fun!
Thanks
Yes Bob, that was important information Pete shared about the FlyerChief board. Makes for good features in a small engine!
Here is a Williams NW2 with a Flyerchief board. It has working electro couplers, directional lighting, two motors and it would drive a smoke unit if one were present.
It supposedly has back EMF Cruise as well though trying to move the camera and turn the knob makes it appear a bit jerky.
The Universal LC Remote will operate two identical BT engines but neither the LC nor Cab3 App will. They appear as two engines and can only connect to one at a time. My Williams F3 A units operate as a pair with their Flyerchief boards.
One other note about Flyerchief boards with cruise, the work best with motors in parallel like ERR Cruise. Series motors will not run smoothly at all. Also for single engines the Cab3 App will allow the slowest speed steps. The Universal Remote starts these engine around speed step 6.
Pete
@Mark Boyce posted:Yes Bob, that was important information Pete shared about the FlyerChief board. Makes for good features in a small engine!
When I ordered the board for the S2 I also ordered a GP7 that's going in a Beep......
Bob, what is the Lionel part number for the Lionchief board? Thanks.
John
Bob were those both Flyerchief boards you ordered?
Pete, those are really nice running engines!!
Here you go.
@Norton posted:Here is a Williams NW2 with a Flyerchief board. It has working electro couplers, directional lighting, two motors and it would drive a smoke unit if one were present.
It supposedly has back EMF Cruise as well though trying to move the camera and turn the knob makes it appear a bit jerky.
The Universal LC Remote will operate two identical BT engines but neither the LC nor Cab3 App will. They appear as two engines and can only connect to one at a time. My Williams F3 A units operate as a pair with their Flyerchief boards.One other note about Flyerchief boards with cruise, the work best with motors in parallel like ERR Cruise. Series motors will not run smoothly at all. Also for single engines the Cab3 App will allow the slowest speed steps. The Universal Remote starts these engine around speed step 6.
Pete
I've found that the LC or Base3 app work better than the universal remote. Better speed control for sure.
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:I've found that the LC or Base3 app work better than the universal remote. Better speed control for sure.
Bob
For single engines the Cab3 App is the best. Even has a speed step indicator like the Cab2.
Just doesn’t work for multiple engines unless you have a Base3. Maybe in the future?????
Pete
@Norton posted:For single engines the Cab3 App is the best. Even has a speed step indicator like the Cab2.
Just doesn’t work for multiple engines unless you have a Base3. Maybe in the future?????
Pete
I'll stick with my Cab-1L for now.
@Norton posted:Here is a Williams NW2 with a Flyerchief board. It has working electro couplers, directional lighting, two motors and it would drive a smoke unit if one were present.
It supposedly has back EMF Cruise as well though trying to move the camera and turn the knob makes it appear a bit jerky.
The Universal LC Remote will operate two identical BT engines but neither the LC nor Cab3 App will. They appear as two engines and can only connect to one at a time. My Williams F3 A units operate as a pair with their Flyerchief boards.One other note about Flyerchief boards with cruise, the work best with motors in parallel like ERR Cruise. Series motors will not run smoothly at all. Also for single engines the Cab3 App will allow the slowest speed steps. The Universal Remote starts these engine around speed step 6.
Pete
Sharp. As usual.
The Wms NW-2 - I put ERR in one some years ago, but no sound, as those little hoods (about the size of an S-scale boxcar....?) and one motor taking up the cab, made sound not impossible, probably, but beyond my desired efforts. It does run well.
@D500 posted:Sharp. As usual.
The Wms NW-2 - I put ERR in one some years ago, but no sound, as those little hoods (about the size of an S-scale boxcar....?) and one motor taking up the cab, made sound not impossible, probably, but beyond my desired efforts. It does run well.
The beauty of these D is they come with sound, not unlike the Blunami but without the variety. Still a fraction of the price of ERR. Really all you need for a Diesel anyway. Chuffing smoke is way more complicated though as they don’t use a chuff switch, rather a tach sensor.
Pete
Thanks, Bob! I didn't see a way to look at specs for the boards, so I have a couple more questions.
It appears there are just two boards, a steam and diesel. You can't load a specific sound file, you get the generic sound (not a problem for me at that price, plus the diesels I'd like to upgrade are all EMD). I also would like you to confirm that running on the Lionchief app with your smartphone is one of the control options available. I believe that's correct based on the posts I've read on this thread.
Thanks again!
John
I just finished updating my Lionel 9515 PRR Passenger car. The first photo is of the inside. I taped the lighting regulator to the ceiling rather than put it at the back of the car and frosting some windows, and perhaps making a dummy wall. It was fine up there. I added a couple of seats facing each other. I did see those in some prototype photos of the 60s and 70s, so I thought that was okay.
The movie at the end shows my Lionel 2235060 PRR Doodlebug, followed by my mod'd Lionel 19002 PRR Dining Car, then this 9515 Passenger Car, and finally my mod'd Lionel 9510 PRR Mail Combo Car Baggage Passenger Car. I'm not sure how many cars a doodlebug pulled in real life, but I think 3 is the max for my RR.
Getting all the Chrome parts ready for the bath cleaner and than off to re-chrome
263e with 260T
e-unit install complete
before I got my hands on her
Update almost finished just have touch-up to do
@RSJB18 posted:Re-started my S2 project......and then re-stopped........
The CEO was otherwise occupied today so except for a small detour to the MIL's house to hang a drape, I had some time at the bench today. Some mid-afternoon rain helped the cause as well.
I did the truck assembly, installed the frames, pilots, pick up wires, and Lionel electro-couplers.
Speaker and prog/run switch went into the fuel tank and the tank was installed.I wired up the motors and tested them, again all is moving in the right direction.
Then I took a good look at the Cruise-commander and railsounds boards and the a aforementioned stop occurred. It doesn't look like the boards will fit under the small narrow hood of the S2...... I tried various arrangements but even if I could fit the boards, forget about connecting any wires. I even considered putting the RS board in the cab but then the engineer and conductor would have to run the train from the back porch.
So unless I'm missing the obvious then I may drop back and punt on this engine getting an ERR upgrade and might try a Flyer-chief or Lionchief board.
At least I got to see it move.....
To be continued......
Bob
Sorry for being so far behind, life has gotten in the way.
Question for you Bob, I don't know anything about boards and when I open an engine up my heart starts to race and I began to sweat! But if the boards are to wide for the shell, I have never seen this but is there any reason you can't put them in on there side? Just asking for a friend! LOL
Got the decals complete on both. The road name lettering is too small on the U-boat. The decal set is made for full scale size locos, so they don't work out right on a semi-scale loco. The shells need a little touch-up work and cleaning, then clear coat. The caboose should be done soon. I still have to mask and paint the loco trucks, which won't be easy because everything is staked and riveted together, so it will be a while before the loco is ready for service.
@Mike D posted:Got the decals complete on both. The road name lettering is too small on the U-boat. The decal set is made for full scale size locos, so they don't work out right on a semi-scale loco. The shells need a little touch-up work and cleaning, then clear coat. The caboose should be done soon. I still have to mask and paint the loco trucks, which won't be easy because everything is staked and riveted together, so it will be a while before the loco is ready for service.
Mike those look great!
Its not glamorous work but cutting the legs off of “people” and fitting them into a Disney toy monorail that goes around my amusement park. Ive also upgraded the motor to run better than the Disney provided one thanks to another online forum recommendation.
Don't mind the layout, I have a LONG LONG way to go.
@pault posted:
Its not glamorous work but cutting the legs off of “people” and fitting them into a Disney toy monorail that goes around my amusement park. Ive also upgraded the motor to run better than the Disney provided one thanks to another online forum recommendation.
Don't mind the layout, I have a LONG LONG way to go.
Pault - nice work. I have that Disney set too that I want to run over my carnival area. What motor upgrade did you do?
@Sean007 posted:Pault - nice work. I have that Disney set too that I want to run over my carnival area. What motor upgrade did you do?
Thanks! The Disney forum I read is below. It mentions needing a new worm gear but the motor that came fit just fine in this blue stripe monorail set, I just pulled it off the old motor worm gear and slid it onto the shaft of the new motor. The motor itself, I couldn't find the one they talk about due to age of the post but I found its newer model. Cant beat $8 from Amazon, its one of cheapest train board upgrades I have ever done! Simple solder job. I tested it with the AA batteries before putting the monorail engine back together.
Forum - https://forums.wdwmagic.com/th...motor-thread.667834/
Amazon Motor Link - https://a.co/d/9dtqSZa
I originally liked the Blue Stripe Disney monorail because except for a very small WDW logo, you have no idea its Disney unless you run the monorail with sound. I don't because the sound of my trains in the basement is borderline deafening. For my trains to run underneath the monorail, I cut a 2X4 into 4 inch sections and bought some small bricks off of Amazon. The wife helped me glue all the bricks onto the blocks. I have to make them pretty with some moss or something else somewhere down the line but I love that one of my train lines goes under the monorail.
Sorry if I'm not allowed to post external links. Hopefully I'm not breaking any rules.
@mike g. posted:Sorry for being so far behind, life has gotten in the way.
Question for you Bob, I don't know anything about boards and when I open an engine up my heart starts to race and I began to sweat! But if the boards are to wide for the shell, I have never seen this but is there any reason you can't put them in on there side? Just asking for a friend! LOL
Hi Mike- I had considered flipping the board but it would be very hard to land the wires once it's in place. Still didn't have room for the railsounds board regardless.
Funny that a PS3/2 stacker board fits.
Bob
@pault posted:Thanks! The Disney forum I read is below. It mentions needing a new worm gear but the motor that came fit just fine in this blue stripe monorail set, I just pulled it off the old motor worm gear and slid it onto the shaft of the new motor. The motor itself, I couldn't find the one they talk about due to age of the post but I found its newer model. Cant beat $8 from Amazon, its one of cheapest train board upgrades I have ever done! Simple solder job. I tested it with the AA batteries before putting the monorail engine back together.
Forum - https://forums.wdwmagic.com/th...motor-thread.667834/
Amazon Motor Link - https://a.co/d/9dtqSZa
I originally liked the Blue Stripe Disney monorail because except for a very small WDW logo, you have no idea its Disney unless you run the monorail with sound. I don't because the sound of my trains in the basement is borderline deafening. For my trains to run underneath the monorail, I cut a 2X4 into 4 inch sections and bought some small bricks off of Amazon. The wife helped me glue all the bricks onto the blocks. I have to make them pretty with some moss or something else somewhere down the line but I love that one of my train lines goes under the monorail.
Sorry if I'm not allowed to post external links. Hopefully I'm not breaking any rules.
Thanks very much - I will check it out.
@coach joe posted:@pault, I would love to see your "brick piers".
Here you go. It may not have been the prettiest approach but it worked for me so far and it got the monorail higher which is what I wanted. I liked how they turned out even if they probably wouldn't pass any government inspections. The bricks break apart, sometimes just crumble, when putting some pressure on them either by hand or with two pliers. They DO make your hands wildly filthy.
Bricks from Amazon - https://a.co/d/9mPjhcF
If anyone is curious, the fencing is from Hobby Lobby in the fairy aisle near all the fake plants and moss packages.
Nice job on the piers, Paul!
@Mark Boyce posted:Nice job on the piers, Paul!
Thank you. I would love to learn how to weather and make look more realistic like some members are really good at. I think that would really make them stand out. Baby steps.
@coach joe posted:@pault, MArk said it already, the piers look great. Thanks for the link, we got some new building materials.
Thanks I appreciate it. Took a summer break on the layout with all the house projects (but still buying trains). Getting back into it with the weather slowing turning and the train shows coming back full swing.
i have the lionel Balloon ride accessory to figure out how to hook up this coming week. Looking forward to seeing that work.
I have been away from the bench and layout much of the past month. My most recent project of repainting four MTH club cars (Sorry MTH) is nearing completion. Cars transitioned: 1998 MTH Charter Member box car, 1999 RailKing crane car & 2000 crane tender plus the 2001 auto transport are all being assigned to the Duluth Missabe & Iron Range Railroad. The box car is in final color and awaiting decals which are on order.
I use SCALECOAT II Wash Away to soften and remove original markings. I found that soaking a piece of paper towel with the solution and laying it on the original markings aided the removal.
Wiping with paper towel and a Q-tip did a sufficient job to ready the car for primer. I did cut away many cast-in details and added my own wire steps and ladders to some of the cars. Soap, water and a toothbrush completed the process.
After an overnight dry, I primed and applied coats of finish color. In the case of two colors, I paint the lighter yellow color first. I do not mask for the second color until several days of cure. After masking I sprayed a coat of yellow on the margins of the tape to reduce bleeding of the darker color. Within the hour, I apply the finial color and allow a 24 hour cure before removing the masking tape. I gloss coated the areas that receive decals followed by a coat of Dullcote over the entire model after the decals are set and dried. Lucky to find approbate rattle can colors for this project. Some decals were from K4 and some were printed on my home computer.
Cheers, Dave
PS: Mike G: I dedicate this post to you since you asked for more detail. I assume that much of what's mentioned here is standard procedure for those who enjoy custom painting. Also great to see you back in a train room!! Wonderful start!! What are your plans for the ceiling and what about heating and Air? Inquiring minds need to know! Thanks!
Dave, that’s really nice repainting you are doing!!! Thank you for the details of the method you are using!
Lubed my Lionel Legacy SW-1200. These are single-motor engines with shaft drives. The universals and gearing make quite a bit of noise which gets more noticeable over time. Mine started to trip the motor overload so it was due for a trip to the shops.
Not a big fan of this drive system even though these will really crawl. Twin can motors are much better.
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:Twin can motors are much better.
Them's fightin' words! Just kidding Bob, to each his or her own. But please consider, 2-railers have used drop-down gear towers with shaft drive and individual axle gearboxes for YEARS; that's the standard approach in 2-rail O scale. Drives from the better makes such as Overland, Central Locomotive Works (CLW) and Weaver are plenty smooth and quiet. Some of them run on museum layouts for hours a day. All of 3rd Rail's recent diesels use this type of drive.
A horizontal drive allows a larger motor, larger flywheel(s), easy customizability of the gear ratio, no issues with the two motors starting at different voltages, the potential to have some equalization of the truck for improved operation on uneven track, etc. It even facilitates a fully-detailed cab!
IMO there's nothing wrong with the fundamental design of the drive. I think what we have here is possibly another case like the L1 Mikados, where Lionel's execution (engineering tolerances, choice of materials, lack of factory lubrication, etc.) wasn't perfect. I hope Lionel sticks with this design and improves it to the point of being bullet-proof. I also hope you're able to get yours sorted out and running to your satisfaction. Thanks for sharing!
@Ted S posted:Them's fightin' words!
A horizontal drive allows a larger motor, larger flywheel(s), easy customizability of the gear ratio, no issues with the two motors starting at different voltages, the potential to have some equalization of the truck for improved operation on uneven track, etc. It even facilitates a fully-detailed cab!
IMO there's nothing wrong with the fundamental design of the drive. I think what we have here is possibly another case like the L1 Mikados, where Lionel's execution (engineering tolerances, choice of materials, lack of factory lubrication, etc.) wasn't perfect. I hope Lionel sticks with this design and improves it to the point of being bullet-proof. I also hope you're able to get yours sorted out and running to your satisfaction. Thanks for sharing!
Not putting the drive line down Ted. Just Lionel's execution of it. 
I should add that I bought this engine used and found that the gearboxes were bone dry. I don't know how much run time it had with no grease but it did look like the gears had some premature wear. I probably should drop the trucks and top them off again.
I agree that the lack of can motors allows for a full cab, especially on these short SW units.
As I said, it can crawl at very low speed steps so I do see the attraction of this system.
Bob
I decided to jump into another engine upgrade. My S2 is on hold while Lionel inspects the Flyerchief board they sent me. The motor output gets full voltage, with no speed control.
I'm putting a FC board into a BEEP. I have a board for a Great Northern GP-7 so the sounds will be appropriate. I'm going to use this as a base engine that I can swap the shells on to. I'm using a Penn Central model and will be upgrading the lighting to LED's and adding sound. FC boards include electro-couplers so I'll be adding them as well.
I have several other BEEPs including extra shells that I can add the same LED's and speaker to and just plug and play.
Did a test run with the board powered to the motors.
Bob
Morning guys, nothing from me today, but I do want to comment if that is ok! LOL
@pault Paul nice job on the monorail! Things like weathering will come, don't rush it as there is going to be folks here to help along the way!
@darlander Dave thanks for the painting tips! You have done an amazing work with the autos and box car! I know I am going to need the info in the future and I have an MTH crane and crane car in purple that will need repainted! Sorry MTH I got a screaming deal on them! LOL
As for the train room, after talking with some locals here I plan on a 2x4 truss 16" O.C. non faced insulation and sheet rock, I plan on either 6 hanging dimmable hanging shop lights or 6 can lights. Not sure yet, as for the heat and A.C. I plan on getting a mini split for that and a small dehumidifier for the summer and a humidifier for during the winter!
@RSJB18 Bob, your first engine sound like an easy fix with a little lubricant, now the second one is over my head and sfter watching your video of a nice smooth-running engine I wonder to myself how is he going to fit all that stuff back under such a small cover! LOL I wish you the best of luck!
I hope your all having a wonderful weekend!
Made a few bottle-holders...I'm tired of spilling SolvaSet all over the workbench (worse, the dining room table):
PD
So this Williams Century Limited observation car arrived Friday.
It wasn't the Weaver observation car I was looking for but for $10.50 from eBay it was close enough.
Comparing it to a Weaver car the bodies appear to be from the same molds. So close enough wouldn't be good enough and a future trip to the workbench would be inevitable. I figured with a little black pant on the roof and some pin stripe tape to match the Weaver striping this car would complete my Advance Section of the 20th Century Limited. I had my portable paint booth out yesterday doing some work for my wife so that future trip to the work bench turned into now. I hadn't taken one of these aluminum cars apart in a long time, if ever, so what I thought would be quick roof removal turned into a total tear down and low and behold the roof isn't a separate piece, so no quick Saturday afternoon Step 1 in the transformation painted roof. Instead it's a full blown work bench project on top of the 20-30 or so I've already got.
To paint the roof I'll have to mask off the sides and hit it with some rattle can satin black. For the striping I hoped some auto pinstriping would work. What I have on hand is a bit too wide. I think 1/16" is what I need. I notice the NEW YORK CENTRAL and CENTURY are not, painted, pad printed or decals but stickers, white lettering on gray background, that run the entire length of the car. It appears that the panels under these stickers are painted like the rest of the car. I do have some NEW YORK CENTRAL decals that are close to the Weaver cars, so I'm thinking of peeling the stickers off and using those decals. Has anyone here ever peeled these stickers off a Williams car? Any recommendations would be appreciated. So I believe my game plan for the body work is:
1.Remove silhouettes
2. Remove NYC stickers, clean any residue. Hopefully the Century stickers are not damaged while cleaning any residue.
3. Mask off roof. Clean roof with alcohol wipes. Paint roof
4. Add NYC decals
5. Clear coat
6. Add pinstripe tape
7. Reinstall silhouettes
Before re-assembly I plan to do some mechanical work. The trucks and the coupler are looser than the Weaver so the observation car rocks more and the coupler hangs a bit lower. I will try using some C clips to fill the spaces and tighten this up some. I don't really want to start drilling out rivets and replacing them. I'll replace the two incandescent bulbs with some LED bulbs I purchased from Town and Country Hobbies years ago. and put some of that shiny aluminum duct tape on the roof interior to help spread the light.
I even have a 20TH Century LTD "drumhead" on the way. Hopefully it fits.
@coach joe You know if it went to easy something really bad would happen! This way it helps grow your to do bench and helps keep you busy longer! You know the old saying idle hands and mind can drive you crazy! LOL
Ok maybe they don't say that but it sure feels like that to me! Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress!
This was a very small project. I saw a boxcar on the forum with a load of auto frames, and went out and bought the only car on eBay that had one. I posted about it here. I also liked that it had a route map on the side. I try to buy more PRR cars than other road names, so I wanted to add an auto frame load to this PRR boxcar I recently bought. There weren't many auto frame loads on eBay, but I did find one that I was able to get for a decent price. Rather than securing it with elastic tie downs like the UPR one had, I saw that the auto frames sit on top of one another with a small plastic piece fitting into a hole in the frame below. The bottom frame has those plastic things extending out, so I drilled some holes in the base of the car and used transparent scenic glue to keep them in place. The picture below shows the final product.
Texgeekboy,Chances are those car frames in a PRR boxcar were manufactured by the Edward G. Budd Manufacturing Company at the Hunting Park Avenue plant in Philadelphia.
Jay
@mike g. posted:Morning guys, nothing from me today, but I do want to comment if that is ok! LOL
@pault Paul nice job on the monorail! Things like weathering will come, don't rush it as there is going to be folks here to help along the way!
@darlander Dave thanks for the painting tips! You have done an amazing work with the autos and box car! I know I am going to need the info in the future and I have an MTH crane and crane car in purple that will need repainted! Sorry MTH I got a screaming deal on them! LOL
As for the train room, after talking with some locals here I plan on a 2x4 truss 16" O.C. non faced insulation and sheet rock, I plan on either 6 hanging dimmable hanging shop lights or 6 can lights. Not sure yet, as for the heat and A.C. I plan on getting a mini split for that and a small dehumidifier for the summer and a humidifier for during the winter!
@RSJB18 Bob, your first engine sound like an easy fix with a little lubricant, now the second one is over my head and sfter watching your video of a nice smooth-running engine I wonder to myself how is he going to fit all that stuff back under such a small cover! LOL I wish you the best of luck!
I hope your all having a wonderful weekend!
Mike, we have mini splits and we’re very happy with their efficiency. In the train room, since the ceiling was open during , the indoor unit was installed in the ceiling instead of the typical wall unit. I wanted this so that it wouldn’t interfere with the way I wanted to paint the walls , F-H cloudless, and any subsequent backdrop.
Jay
That is certainly one possibility. When I was a kid in the 60s my father took us to a tour of a GM plant in an area I believe is West Mifflin, a suburb of Pittsburgh. To me the plant seemed huge. I recall seeing sheets of metal being moved around the floor to pressing machines. I don’t recall much else, although I still have a souvenir bookmark from there. I don’t think they were doing the assembly there but am not sure. It was also close to some rail lines. One was used to dump hot slag (?) on a big hill. When we drove by there in the evening and they were doing a dump, you could see the red hot stuff coming down. The hill was all slag, no vegetation.
While this project is still down the list of what's on the workbench that didn't stop me from making a trip to the local auto parts stores in search of the proper pinstriping tape. I'll need 1/16" blue and 1/16" white the help transform this Williams observation into a suitable end to a Weaver Limited.
Well no luck in the pinstripe department. Blue and white must not be popular in the Myrtle Beach area. Beyond lack of proper color the thinnest stripe I've come across is 1/8", twice as wide as needed. I do have an old roll of blue double stripe tape. The thinner stripe may work, I can't tell if it's too thin. The thought of separating 4+ feet of the thin stipe from the second blue and white stripe is daunting. and even if I accomplish that the two white stripes in the window band are still too thin to match the Weaver. Recently Peter, @Putnam Division, came across some 1/16" tape on Amazon that he is using for pavement markings. I took a quick look and the 1/16" comes in a 4 pack of different widths which I don't need and the blue tape shown appears to be a very light blue, like painters tape blue.
Here's where things get a little interesting. While researching another project, even further down the workbench, see why it takes me so long to finish these projects, I'm always looking 5-6 down the bench, I came across a NYCHS article about painting The Limited. It appears the Weaver cars are dressed in the original Henry Dreyfus designed paint scheme, with Opex Blue stripes separating the dark gray window panel from the light gray side panels and two wide aluminum, yes aluminum not white, stripes running the length of the window panel. All stripes and lettering were outlined in black to provide additional contrast. Equipment for the Limited was painted this way in 1938and 1939. The scheme was revised, replacing the Opex Blue stripes with aluminum and using two thinner aluminum stripes running the length of the window panel, much like the Williams car. My quandary is now, do I continue to pursue the proper pinstripes to match the Weaver cars or does my advance section of the 20TH Century Limited leave Metro Terminal with a 1940+ observation car bringing up the rear of a train of 1938 equipment. Of course the roof still needs to be painted black and the New York Central sticker would need to be replace with a more appropriate font.
@coach joe posted:While this project is still down the list of what's on the workbench that didn't stop me from making a trip to the local auto parts stores in search of the proper pinstriping tape. I'll need 1/16" blue and 1/16" white the help transform this Williams observation into a suitable end to a Weaver Limited.
Well no luck in the pinstripe department. Blue and white must not be popular in the Myrtle Beach area. Beyond lack of proper color the thinnest stripe I've come across is 1/8", twice as wide as needed. I do have an old roll of blue double stripe tape. The thinner stripe may work, I can't tell if it's too thin. The thought of separating 4+ feet of the thin stipe from the second blue and white stripe is daunting. and even if I accomplish that the two white stripes in the window band are still too thin to match the Weaver. Recently Peter, @Putnam Division, came across some 1/16" tape on Amazon that he is using for pavement markings. I took a quick look and the 1/16" comes in a 4 pack of different widths which I don't need and the blue tape shown appears to be a very light blue, like painters tape blue.
Here's where things get a little interesting. While researching another project, even further down the workbench, see why it takes me so long to finish these projects, I'm always looking 5-6 down the bench, I came across a NYCHS article about painting The Limited. It appears the Weaver cars are dressed in the original Henry Dreyfus designed paint scheme, with Opex Blue stripes separating the dark gray window panel from the light gray side panels and two wide aluminum, yes aluminum not white, stripes running the length of the window panel. All stripes and lettering were outlined in black to provide additional contrast. Equipment for the Limited was painted this way in 1938and 1939. The scheme was revised, replacing the Opex Blue stripes with aluminum and using two thinner aluminum stripes running the length of the window panel, much like the Williams car. My quandary is now, do I continue to pursue the proper pinstripes to match the Weaver cars or does my advance section of the 20TH Century Limited leave Metro Terminal with a 1940+ observation car bringing up the rear of a train of 1938 equipment. Of course the roof still needs to be painted black and the New York Central sticker would need to be replace with a more appropriate font.
Joe- I'm sure the NYC purists would object but I think a "new" observation car behind the rest of the train would be fine. Just fix the lettering and paint the roof.
Bob
Ah, the easy way. I like the thought of that. Once I'm done masking, painting, peeling the Name Plate sticker and applying decals I'll see if I've got anything left for slice the two stripe blue pinstripe tape. If not, 1940 bringing up the rear of 1938. If so I'll give it a try and see how far I get. Not sure about the white (aluminum) stripes in the window panel.
@coach joe posted:While this project is still down the list of what's on the workbench that didn't stop me from making a trip to the local auto parts stores in search of the proper pinstriping tape. I'll need 1/16" blue and 1/16" white the help transform this Williams observation into a suitable end to a Weaver Limited.
Well no luck in the pinstripe department. Blue and white must not be popular in the Myrtle Beach area. Beyond lack of proper color the thinnest stripe I've come across is 1/8", twice as wide as needed. I do have an old roll of blue double stripe tape. The thinner stripe may work, I can't tell if it's too thin. The thought of separating 4+ feet of the thin stipe from the second blue and white stripe is daunting. and even if I accomplish that the two white stripes in the window band are still too thin to match the Weaver. Recently Peter, @Putnam Division, came across some 1/16" tape on Amazon that he is using for pavement markings. I took a quick look and the 1/16" comes in a 4 pack of different widths which I don't need and the blue tape shown appears to be a very light blue, like painters tape blue.
Here's where things get a little interesting. While researching another project, even further down the workbench, see why it takes me so long to finish these projects, I'm always looking 5-6 down the bench, I came across a NYCHS article about painting The Limited. It appears the Weaver cars are dressed in the original Henry Dreyfus designed paint scheme, with Opex Blue stripes separating the dark gray window panel from the light gray side panels and two wide aluminum, yes aluminum not white, stripes running the length of the window panel. All stripes and lettering were outlined in black to provide additional contrast. Equipment for the Limited was painted this way in 1938and 1939. The scheme was revised, replacing the Opex Blue stripes with aluminum and using two thinner aluminum stripes running the length of the window panel, much like the Williams car. My quandary is now, do I continue to pursue the proper pinstripes to match the Weaver cars or does my advance section of the 20TH Century Limited leave Metro Terminal with a 1940+ observation car bringing up the rear of a train of 1938 equipment. Of course the roof still needs to be painted black and the New York Central sticker would need to be replace with a more appropriate font.
Here is the 1/16” yellow tape I found on Amazon……
……and, the link……
https://www.amazon.com/DOAY-Pa...Caps%2C79&sr=8-1
Peter
@mike g. posted:As for the train room, after talking with some locals here I plan on a 2x4 truss 16" O.C. non faced insulation and sheet rock, I plan on either 6 hanging dimmable hanging shop lights or 6 can lights. Not sure yet, as for the heat and A.C. I plan on getting a mini split for that and a small dehumidifier for the summer and a humidifier for during the winter!
******
Mike as a life long midwesterner I would hold off on the humidifier and see if you really need it. They can be more trouble than they are worth with things like moisture inside the windows.
Thumbs up on the dehumidifier and mini split.
An FYI post - I am sure that most of you who have contemplated the Wms PA know this already.
Why Williams Alco PA's never look "quite right":
I used to think, at a glance, that the fuel tank was too short (and too shallow, which it is; easy fix). No, the tank's length is just fine - Wms put the trucks in the wrong place on the chassis, which is a whole bunch harder to fix, though I do plan to do it one day to my custom-painted GM&O PA's (painted by someone else; later corrected and weathered by me). The wheelbase is too long, by about an inch.
The early TMCC Lionel PA (great loco) below is correct. Note the length of both tanks and both bodies. All correct. But those Wms trucks (better-looking than the Lionel's, by a bit) are mounted too far outboard.
Swing and a miss. Sigh.
@coach joe posted:
While this project is still down the list of what's on the workbench that didn't stop me from making a trip to the local auto parts stores in search of the proper pinstriping tape. I'll need 1/16" blue and 1/16" white the help transform this Williams observation into a suitable end to a Weaver Limited.
Well no luck in the pinstripe department. Blue and white must not be popular in the Myrtle Beach area. Beyond lack of proper color the thinnest stripe I've come across is 1/8", twice as wide as needed. I do have an old roll of blue double stripe tape. The thinner stripe may work, I can't tell if it's too thin. The thought of separating 4+ feet of the thin stipe from the second blue and white stripe is daunting. and even if I accomplish that the two white stripes in the window band are still too thin to match the Weaver. Recently Peter, @Putnam Division, came across some 1/16" tape on Amazon that he is using for pavement markings. I took a quick look and the 1/16" comes in a 4 pack of different widths which I don't need and the blue tape shown appears to be a very light blue, like painters tape blue.
Here's where things get a little interesting. While researching another project, even further down the workbench, see why it takes me so long to finish these projects, I'm always looking 5-6 down the bench, I came across a NYCHS article about painting The Limited. It appears the Weaver cars are dressed in the original Henry Dreyfus designed paint scheme, with Opex Blue stripes separating the dark gray window panel from the light gray side panels and two wide aluminum, yes aluminum not white, stripes running the length of the window panel. All stripes and lettering were outlined in black to provide additional contrast. Equipment for the Limited was painted this way in 1938and 1939. The scheme was revised, replacing the Opex Blue stripes with aluminum and using two thinner aluminum stripes running the length of the window panel, much like the Williams car. My quandary is now, do I continue to pursue the proper pinstripes to match the Weaver cars or does my advance section of the 20TH Century Limited leave Metro Terminal with a 1940+ observation car bringing up the rear of a train of 1938 equipment. Of course the roof still needs to be painted black and the New York Central sticker would need to be replace with a more appropriate font.
I've hit another snag and this one is an even bigger issue than pinstripes. My color blind eyes saw the darker roof of the Weaver cars as black, however, using lighted magnification, a closer inspection of the Weaver cars indicates the roofs are actually a dark gray that matches the dark gray window panels. I doubt I'll find a rattle can to match. The only way I can think of to obtain a match is the paint department of a big box store. Then I would have a latex paint and application becomes a big problem. I don't think a brush application would work and I don't know if latex would work in my air brush. Oh by the way I haven't used the air brush in years. Any ideas?
Hi Coach you can always look up Scalecoat model paints. I got perfect match from them for my BNSF engine!
@coach joe posted:I've hit another snag and this one is an even bigger issue than pinstripes. My color blind eyes saw the darker roof of the Weaver cars as black, however, using lighted magnification, a closer inspection of the Weaver cars indicates the roofs are actually a dark gray that matches the dark gray window panels. I doubt I'll find a rattle can to match. The only way I can think of to obtain a match is the paint department of a big box store. Then I would have a latex paint and application becomes a big problem. I don't think a brush application would work and I don't know if latex would work in my air brush. Oh by the way I haven't used the air brush in years. Any ideas?
Hey coach Joe, I just looked at their paint color chart and in the 3rd over from the left and up 6 from the bottom is says NYC Dark Gray!
I have use them in my cheap sprayer!
Good luck!
P.S. I hope I am ok with posting this chart. If not I am truly sorry for any violation.
Mike, I use to paint everything with Scalecoat. Great paint. But unfortunately they went out of business about 3 years ago. You may find some old stock still out there.
Coach Joe, you might want to checkout True Color paint. They should have the NYC colors. If you have a local hobby shop. Many carry Tamiya paint. You may be able to come up with a gray that’s close. By adding a bit of black you should be able to come up with a match. Both brands spray well through an airbrush.
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