Covering these poorly done signs on the OEM model 
@RK posted:I picked up a 2343 AA Set. Olsen's Diagrams seems to be offline. So where does 1 find a Diagram of the 2343 with the Parts Breakdown? I need to order a few parts.
Hi RK,
I just emailed 5 manual pages to you - I hope that helps
@Lionelski posted:Hi RK,
I just emailed 5 manual pages to you - I hope that helps
Thanks. Making a list & then doing an internet search to see who has the parts.
Hello all ,
Here’s what’s on my workbench at the moment. VL CC2 , in need of a front frame replacement.
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Steve, I know some of the paper model mfrs, talk about layering architectural details like door and window frames and pilasters and cornices to give depth. Do you use that technique with your homegrown paper models?
@coach joe posted:Steve, I know some of the paper model mfrs, talk about layering architectural details like door and window frames and pilasters and cornices to give depth. Do you use that technique with your homegrown paper models?
What do you think, LOL! 
How's this? - https://steves3roscale.shutterfly.com/pictures/22153
Still working on the bench and have completed all 16 side chutes and door detail for the Hart hoppers.
Began working on the activation lever detail. In order to produce a sizable hole in a narrow strip of styrene, it required four separate bits to reach the 3/32 hole needed for the tubing. Started with a small pilot hole using my Dremel drill press, gradually increased the hole size using three more bits with the pin vise to reach the required size. I found this method was helpful and increased my success rate to about 80%. The trick was getting it centered and not trying to remove too much material with each bit. Broke a few pieces of styrene along the way.
Today I worked on the corner bracing for the chutes. My salvaged supply of copper “box staples” became very useful. It is hard to find 1/16” flat copper strips.
I made a little jig for cutting a groove with my track saw to help produce a sharper bend at the foot of the brace.
Cut them to size using a scale drawing and secured them in place with some two part marine epoxy I had in supply.
Now waiting for the 24 hour cure.
Will finish the other two early next week and begin the center bracing and activation levers. The activation levers will be made from strips of copper that I will solder to a copper rod that slides into the 3/32 tubing.
Cheers to all and have a wonderful weekend!
Dave
PS: I'm so impressed with you people who jump into the electronic and mechanical fixes! Tackling that would scare me to death!
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@SIRT posted:What do you think, LOL!
That's what I expected but I had to ask. I remember seeing you post during the build of that one. The "Empire Carpet" didn't sink in until I just noticed the billboard on the roof. That gave me a chuckle. Love that Fender Guitar billboard. is the "sign" off an actual guitar and what kind of screen did you use for the framework. I can't say that I'm familiar with that wavy wire.
I just finished replacing the main smoke fan in my VL Hudson 700E. I'm editing a video of the entire adventure now. One funny thing happened. I isolated the main smoke fan motor as the problem but, like a doctor removing the wrong organ, in my enthusiasm, I removed the whistle smoke motor before I realized I "removed the wrong fan motor" 
Well, I'm ready now when that one fails!
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You've become quite the technician Ed'... I know where to send my motive power for repair when required'.... 😁👍
This 70-ton Air Slide covered hopper is from an American Standard kit from the 1990's. American Standard is best known in O scale/gauge for its well detailed heavy weight passenger car kits and later light weight streamline kits a well. Yet they also fielded some freight cars, this being one of them, as well as a modern (for that time) Rail-Gon being the other.
The 70-ton Air Slide covered hopper was not a common O scale car back then, other than a few expensive brass imports. The kit is styrene with some cast plastic parts - car sides, hoppers, end vents, shaker castings, bolsters, ladders, running board, roof end platforms, car steps and underframe ends. All else is styrene sheet and strips. Many of them, all inventoried on the instruction sheet, which has diagrams drawn and printed to 3/16"/ ft scale for this 1/4" /ft scale model. Deft handling of a scale ruler helps a lot. No couplers or trucks are provided.
I thought I might sell this kit. However, I probably not get anything near its original $ 19.90 cost from 30 odd years back. Even at $10 plus postage would be a price few would be willing to pay.
And it's not an easy kit to build. All the angle stock needed for car end bracing and roof ribs must be glued up from styrene strips to make the needed "L" shapes. The underframe center sill too, is built up with styrene strips. Further, it builds out to be a very light weight car in O scale, about 7 oz with Kadee couplers and Athearn "Symington" trucks under it. So, I put in an 8 oz block of wood to bring it up to a more road-able 15oz. But therein lies a tale.
I detailed the brake rigging underneath and added air brake piping as well. All was ready for the final part, installing the brake wheel with is rod and chains at each end, to connect with the brake cylinder below. Oh, I nearly forgot to say that its light weight also relates to its construction and details being rather fragile! Also, that added built-in weight can be a liability when handling this model.
The two photos below will give you some idea of what the car is like and the unfortunate accident I had when grabbing it as it was rolling off the workbench a few days ago. Other than those very fragile corner ladders that split down the middle of each rung on both sides, it is indeed quite repairable.
Later.
S. Islander
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@Alex M posted:Hello all ,
Here’s what’s on my workbench at the moment. VL CC2 , in need of a front frame replacement.
Ok ill bite, why do you need a front frame? Did the loco "take a dive" or zinc pest?
Installed the center bracing to one car tonight. The thin center brass strip will become the activation lever holder. Had to solder it in place before epoxying the bracing. The weather has been so nice the past few days it's been hard to find time to sneak down to the bench. 
Life is good!
Cheers, Dave
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@prrhorseshoecurve posted:Ok ill bite, why do you need a front frame? Did the loco "take a dive" or zinc pest?
Hi Mark
The rear of the front frame snapped off , you can see the part that snapped off in the first picture. Another repair guy had this loco for almost a year , customer decided to get it back because he was tired of waiting for it, I Received it like this so I’m not sure how it broke. I do not see any signs of zinc rot.
Thanks, Alex
After finishing replacing the main smoke motor in my VL Hudson 700E, I've turned to the last of my collection needing attention. The Acela set. I'm starting with the non-powered engine #2029. Pantograph motor does not run. Either it has settled on a 'dead spot' Gunrunner John identified, or I need to replace it. Fortunately I have a motor and motherboard for that unit.
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@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:
Thanks Ted, but, I would not advise anyone to send me anything to fix....mostly my DIY projects of any kind end with a call to a pro! But I do appreciate the vote of confidence.
@ToledoEd posted:I just finished replacing the main smoke fan in my VL Hudson 700E. I'm editing a video of the entire adventure now. One funny thing happened. I isolated the main smoke fan motor as the problem but, like a doctor removing the wrong organ, in my enthusiasm, I removed the whistle smoke motor before I realized I "removed the wrong fan motor"
Ted, here's a video of the project:
