@Lou1985 posted:It's nothing compared to some other people's scrap boxes. I go to their scrap box when mine doesn't have what I need.
I have scrap box envy....😬😬🤪🤪
@coach joe posted:Darrell, Bob, nice work on the BEEPS.
Lou you've got some scrap box!
Thanks Joe.
Thanks Joe, 2 of 3 done!
"What's on the workbench at the moment"...
Lots. But it's the wrong scale.
Andre
What's NOT on the workbench at the moment. On the way back soon but......
Ground up cleaning of my postwar steamers and tenders. A few before and after pics.
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@ChiTown Steve posted:Ground up cleaning of my postwar steamers and tenders. A few before and after pics.
Nice job Steve.
What did you use for the clean up on the amateur and outher parts ? 🤔
@Dallas Joseph posted:Nice job Steve.
What did you use for the clean up on the amateur and outher parts ? 🤔
Thanks. The internal part of the locomotive I started with mineral spirits and Q-Tips to get the easy grime/oil off. Let it dry over night. The hit it with a soft wire wheel on the dremel where ever I could. I mean every where too.
The shell got washed inside and out with dish washing soap.
Then I replaced the old cloth wires with new ones. It really helped make the whistle a lot stronger.
All oil and grease was removed from the gears. I replaced it with a Labelle bearing oil on the armature, light oil on the wheels and white lithium grease on the gears. Very light amounts in all cases.
All 6 engines and tenders are running great. Ready for another 70 years. Great engineering and build quality. 👍
ChiTown, nice job. I bet it will run as it did when it was assembled at the factory.
More progress on the Korber RH build
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I'll tell you what is NOT on my workbench at the moment, it is my Lionel radar tower. I started it in Oct of 2010 and it has been on my bench ever since. Well last week I finally worked on it and it is off the bench and on the layout. Just needs to be wired up. Not too bad - 12 years. Pretty darn quick if you ask me ! 
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@Bill Sherry posted:I'll tell you what is NOT on my workbench at the moment, it is my Lionel radar tower. I started it in Oct of 2010 and it has been on my bench ever since. Well last week I finally worked on it and it is off the bench and on the layout. Just needs to be wired up. Not too bad - 12 years. Pretty darn quick if you ask me !
I really love the base for the tower, what all did you use?
I was in a hobby shop and saw sheets of plastic about 14 in square with various things on them - windows of all kinds and also this one with stone blocks. I think you are to cut what you want to size and paint. I turned it over and filled it with plaster of paris and have been using it here and there on the layout. 
On this base I framed it with wood and then just glued the walls to it. Then added the stairs and lamp over the door. Put a few LEDs inside to light up the door panels.
Other uses - made the pour with the mold curved so I could use it on a curved wall.
A few more ...
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@Bill Sherry posted:I was in a hobby shop and saw sheets of plastic about 14 in square with various things on them - windows of all kinds and also this one with stone blocks. I think you are to cut what you want to size and paint. I turned it over and filled it with plaster of paris and have been using it here and there on the layout. 
On this base I framed it with wood and then just glued the walls to it. Then added the stairs and lamp over the door. Put a few LEDs inside to light up the door panels.
Other uses - made the pour with the mold curved so I could use it on a curved wall.
A few more ...
Ingenious use of the sheet of plastic cut stone.
@Bill Sherry posted:I was in a hobby shop and saw sheets of plastic about 14 in square with various things on them - windows of all kinds and also this one with stone blocks. I think you are to cut what you want to size and paint. I turned it over and filled it with plaster of paris and have been using it here and there on the layout. 
On this base I framed it with wood and then just glued the walls to it. Then added the stairs and lamp over the door. Put a few LEDs inside to light up the door panels.
Other uses - made the pour with the mold curved so I could use it on a curved wall.
A few more ...
Brilliant.
Thanks much for the comments !
@Alex M posted:More progress on the Korber RH build
Nice - even though I added a floor to tie everything together, I also drilled small holes into the tops and bottoms of each corner and inserted about a 1.5" long, glued-up small diameter steel rod in each hole to help add some rigidity to the structure. A little putty and some touch-up paint and you would never know.
Will you be adding a floor and/or wiring for lights ?
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Here's another little led project for lighting drumheads in passenger observation cars. It helps spread the light out across the drumhead and diminish the bright spot prevalent in most observation cars. (Click for larger images)
The pcb certainly wouldn't be limited to that single use, however. The leds are 0603 size and my source only had "white", not "warm white", the color I prefer. The pcb is GRJ designed, and also requires an 0805 size smt resistor to match input voltages to the led(~3-3.2vdc). The pcb design circuitry requires around 6vdc to light, using a 330ohm resistor. Adjust to a higher number for higher input voltage. Higher value resistance, the dimmer the light. Suit your taste.
A few items I would recommend when working with such small components are:
A very small tip for your soldering iron. I use a Hakko soldering station as has been much recommended here on the forum.
The tip size is a T18--C05. It really worked well and made soldering the small components much easier.
Next is some small diameter rosin flux solder. I used .020"(0.5mm)
Third would be a good magnifier. Your choice. I use a visor, double lenses for increased magnification, Harbor Freight special, but many use the large round lighted ones, and I know they like them a lot.
The pcb has markings on it as do the leds for determining polarity. Important when working with dc voltage leds. Different manufacturers use different markers, but in my limited experience, they will all have a marker toward the cathode or negative side.
My technique for placing and soldering the components is the same as many here on the forum. Put a dot of solder on one side pick and hold the component with tweezers and solder that side. On this pcb, I go ahead and place one side of all six leds at once, then reorient the pcb and finish the other side.
Because I didn't like the white color of the leds once installed in the drumhead, I used some Tamiya X26 clear orange paint to yellow out the look. I prefer an incandescent look on lighting if possible. YMMV
I found that with a few specialized tools working with small components isn't all that bad. Give this lighting effect a whirl, on your drumheads, or whatever. I think it's worth the effort. Now if I can persuade @AlanRail to print one of those beautiful railings/drumheads after I essentially destroyed it years ago in the initial lighting effort, I'll be golden. 
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Thanks for the details on the soldering equipment. I tried to do some very detailed stuff on some custom pcbs yesterday, and while it went okay I knew it should have been easier. A fine tip iron and small diameter solder should do the trick.
Took a short break from The Big Project, and and piddled with some cars that have arrived over the course of the past week.
Going through them and adding metal wheels, adjusting coupler heights, cutting off truck mounted couplers and installing Kadee boxes and couplers (on the gondolas), etc, etc...
Today it's back to The Big Project.
Andre
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@laming posted:Took a short break from The Big Project, and and piddled with some cars that have arrived over the course of the past week.
Going through them and adding metal wheels, adjusting coupler heights, cutting off truck mounted couplers and installing Kadee boxes and couplers (on the gondolas), etc, etc...
Today it's back to The Big Project.
Andre
Nice , ribbed side boxcar
Ted.......Thanks for the drumhead post. Does John sell the board or did he post the pc board file?
Richard
@texgeekboy posted:Thanks for the details on the soldering equipment. I tried to do some very detailed stuff on some custom pcbs yesterday, and while it went okay I knew it should have been easier. A fine tip iron and small diameter solder should do the trick.
I too thank you, Ted. I have the fine solder and magnifier, but I need to get the fine tipped soldering iron. I will take a look at the Hakko because I have a lot of GJR parts to rewire my passenger cars.
By now most of you should know where this is going. @Mark Boyce got this correct. I don't care for the dark brown color so its off to get a can of spray paint of a much lighter flat color. Have not decided on roof shingle type or color. Looks fine in its intended spot on the layout. The building itself is only 2" deep but 16 " wide.
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Jeff, I agree with you, it is too dark. You will get it looking right.
Ok - picked up a flat red primer and a hunt club green typical of painted log structures. Now which color? - I am leaning the red primer since it will be among trees. The green is a more woodsy than shown.
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@ScoutingDad posted:Ok - picked up a flat red primer and a hunt club green typical of painted log structures. Now which color? - I am leaning the red primer since it will be among trees. The green is a more woodsy than shown.
I agree, the red primer would be best.
Going from on the workbench to off. Still have to decide on a sign for the upper floor. Otherwise I would have installed 2 more windows. Decided to use primer red for the logs and the hunter green for the "corrugated metal" roof. Funny how the camera makes the imperfections jump out. Not too bad for a background building made of 1/4 ply, corrugated card stock, thin balsa strips and dowels. If I do this again, I might reduce the upper roof slope to be closer to the 30 degrees of the lower roof. I was concerned over the "look" of a pitched roof on a background building. Not enough roof showing would look wrong, this "looks" a little high. Maybe add green shutters to the upper windows to dress it up a bit.
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Jeff, I did not notice the high pitch of the roof until you mentioned it. Since you mentioned it, I agree it looks a little high, but I think it is quite acceptable. Your choice of colors are perfect in my opinion.
Shutters might help the look. What about a chimney?
As I keep looking at it - shutters would be the way to go - a little drab as it. Same issue with the chimney as with the roof line. I thought the chimney would be behind where the building would be cut, so would not show up. Flat roofed buildings are so much easier. Now I am thinking about stone chimneys on both ends. I would just cast pea gravel in plaster and then weather.
@Lou1985 posted:Well not exactly. You have to make one or have someone make you one. It's basically a 11.5mm square with a 4mm hole in the middle. Everything stays in sync as the cam is secured to the axle.
Lou in reading this I figured you likely make these from brass stock, but why couldn't they be 3D printed? The design is easy and you could print them several at a time, and once cured the resin becomes hard like glass. Here's a snip of the simple design file I came up with:
It's basically 11.5mm to a side, 5mm thick, with a 4mm hole as you said. I also radiused the corners to 7.6mm just to make life easier for the cherry switch activation lever. This gives a net switch stroke of 1.85mm which should work fine. If the corners were left not radiused the stroke would be 2.38mm.
I think it would also work if made in 2 pieces, and CA glued to the axle shaft in place in the truck. That would be way easier than disassembling the entire truck and having to re-quarter the drivers to put it back together. What do you think? Of course you still have to remove the old 2 lobe cam somehow I guess.......!
Rod
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@Rod Stewart posted:Lou in reading this I figured you likely make these from brass stock, but why couldn't they be 3D printed? The design is easy and you could print them several at a time, and once cured the resin becomes hard like glass. Here's a snip of the simple design file I came up with:
It's basically 11.5mm to a side, 5mm thick, with a 4mm hole as you said. I also radiused the corners to 7.6mm just to make life easier for the cherry switch activation lever. This gives a net switch stroke of 1.85mm which should work fine. If the corners were left not radiused the stroke would be 2.38mm.
I think it would also work if made in 2 pieces, and CA glued to the axle shaft in place in the truck. That would be way easier than disassembling the entire truck and having to re-quarter the drivers to put it back together. What do you think?
Rod
What you describe is what I did. Just 3D print a cam, pop the old cam out by splitting in half with a Xacto knife, CA glue in the new cam. Done.
@Lou1985 posted:What you describe is what I did. Just 3D print a cam, pop the old cam out by splitting in half with a Xacto knife, CA glue in the new cam. Done.
Got it Lou! I did not understand you were using 3D printed cams. I somehow thought they were metal, like brass. We are on the same page; thanks for clarifying!
How does using an Xacto knife work for splitting the old cam? Can you give us a bit more info about how that is done please?
Rod
@Rod Stewart posted:Got it Lou! I did not understand you were using 3D printed cams. I somehow thought they were metal, like brass. We are on the same page; thanks for clarifying!
How does using an Xacto knife work for splitting the old cam? Can you give us a bit more info about how that is done please?
Rod
I just slice at the stock cam with the Xacto knife till it splits, spin it around and slice the other side. A chisel blade usually works well for that.
@ScoutingDad posted:Going from on the workbench to off. Still have to decide on a sign for the upper floor. Otherwise I would have installed 2 more windows. Decided to use primer red for the logs and the hunter green for the "corrugated metal" roof. Funny how the camera makes the imperfections jump out. Not too bad for a background building made of 1/4 ply, corrugated card stock, thin balsa strips and dowels. If I do this again, I might reduce the upper roof slope to be closer to the 30 degrees of the lower roof. I was concerned over the "look" of a pitched roof on a background building. Not enough roof showing would look wrong, this "looks" a little high. Maybe add green shutters to the upper windows to dress it up a bit.
Jeff- The roof height suggests a usable 3rd level, not attic space. Add 2 or 3 doghouse dormers with gable roofs.
You'll thank me later......
I agree on adding shutters too.
Bob
Between 4/24/22 and 5/6/22 I made a few posts concerning my assembly line construction of 4 baggage carts for a diorama I was working on....here's a detail shot of the final setup.
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Korber Roundhouse just about complete
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Great job Alex, that thing is a monster. I hope that's for local pick-up because shipping that could be a nightmare.
I'm working on a wood roof for my PRR theater car kitbash/scratch on another thread. Having fun.
@coach joe posted:Great job Alex, that thing is a monster. I hope that's for local pick-up because shipping that could be a nightmare.
Hi Joe,
Thanks for the kind words, yes it is for pick up. It actually is gone already.
Thanks, Alex
This perfectly illustrates why I didn't have room for a roundhouse on my TT! 
That sucker is HUGE!
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@Alex M posted:Hi Joe,
Thanks for the kind words, yes it is for pick up. It actually is gone already.
Thanks, Alex
Darn, I was gonna come by and pick it up Alex! Beautiful work BTW!
Rod
The roundhouse looks great, Alex!
Waiting for a new armature for my un-cataloged FA . The shell is in perfect shape. Excited to get this running!
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Now ready to head to the paint department...
Finally snagged this old funky MOW kit in an auction. Lots of fun in the building of it. Multiple bags of wood and metal parts, amazingly organized for construction with three sheets of instructions/inventory. Have since added further details, like nbw's at the ladder rungs, additional brake rigging, centering springs for the dummy (O3R) couplers. Accumulating possible details for those open bins...any suggestions on what would be appropriate??
Since I haven't found any prototype info for this contraption, paint and decals are wide open for consideration.
This is the sort of project that makes the hobby fun!...IMHO, of course.
KD
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This pile of stuff will eventually be a 3rd Rail Cab Forward TMCC upgrade with all the trimmings.
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@gunrunnerjohn posted:This pile of stuff will eventually be a 3rd Rail Cab Forward TMCC upgrade with all the trimmings.
Pile of stuff????? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@dkdkrd posted:Now ready to head to the paint department...
Finally snagged this old funky MOW kit in an auction. Lots of fun in the building of it. Multiple bags of wood and metal parts, amazingly organized for construction with three sheets of instructions/inventory. Have since added further details, like nbw's at the ladder rungs, additional brake rigging, centering springs for the dummy (O3R) couplers. Accumulating possible details for those open bins...any suggestions on what would be appropriate??
Since I haven't found any prototype info for this contraption, paint and decals are wide open for consideration.
This is the sort of project that makes the hobby fun!...IMHO, of course.
KD
That thing is incredible.
I finally started on some CNW heavyweights to go with my Premier CNW Hudson. CNW passenger cars are few and far between, so I decided to paint my own using east to acquire K-Line PRR heavyweights as a base. First up are a coach and diner. I've only got another coach, a baggage car, a Pullman, and an observation car to go. Decals are from Protocraft, which are made by Microscale.
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Actually just came off the workbench. Installed @gunrunnerjohn 's passenger car LED lighting kits in my Williams 15" aluminum SP daylight set. No more flicker! And he was nice enough to include an adjustment on the board to control the brightness. I really appreciate that feature since I like to dim the lights in the cars that have silhouette windows.
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This little guy has made his way back to the work bench. I've decorated one side, need to do the other side and figure out how to mount RMT handrails into Kusan holes. I finished decaling this side and I don't think I can paint the step and foot board edges yellow without it looking horrible so I tried some old pactra Trim Tape I had. I got the two front, bottom steps and front right footboard done, the third and top steps became a nightmare. The excess Trim Tape came in contact with some of the decals while I was trying to align and affix it to the stairs, removing some of the yellow safety stripes and even the road number. Now that I've got new decals back on I'm going to clear coat this side before working on the other side.
I've added an EMD Builder's plate and a F on the front end of the frame since I took this picture.
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You could always heat the mounting tabs and just push it into the mounting holes.
Found a good deal on a set of MTH streamlined cars. Only problem was, they were NYC. They're currently undergoing renovation as stand-ins for the PRR's "Congressional" (yes, they're not made by Budd, but we're on an austerity budget). One is off in the "workshop/kitchen". Still have to add the stripe below the windows, and the name/number boards...
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Recent quickie:
LTI 4-bay that I have had for years. Kept hanging around. I like these. It had plastic trucks and a not-so-impressive SP scheme.
So-o-o-o - I put on die-cast Lionel trucks (drop-ins), "fake-patched" the particulars, Dullcote #1, added a repaired panel, weathered with a simple water/alcohol/craft acrylic wash, Dullcote #2, a bit of dry pigment on the trucks
I like it. Not high-end, but scale-y.
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On the bench or off the bench? I've added the sign, shutters and a large field stone chimney. dabbed pastel chalk on the roofs and followed with a light spray of clearcoat. Clearly off the bench in this image.
@Scottie Chimney and shutters per your suggestions. I was originally thinking side chimneys, I prefer this style.
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Really nice looking, Jeff!
@Alex M posted:Korber Roundhouse just about complete
Wow, outstanding work Alex! Very nice. What did you use for lights inside?
Steve. I just passed the Boars Head truck coming home and said that would be a nice vehicle.
I thought I was finally going to say the F3 was off the workbench, and then this happened.....I was testing the engine last night and the front motor was stalling on the curves, hmmmmm......
Upon closer inspection I discovered that one of the motor leads was broken and hiding under melted insulation. 🤯🤯
I guess all of the handling while I've been working on it caused the wire to break. A quick trip to the soldering station and we have restored full power.
Just need to drop the shell on and call it done. 🤞🤞
The shop foreman is getting a little antsy and wants this job done. More jobs are waiting and the customers are getting impatient. 😂😂
Bob
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Paper model from the August 1953 issue of Toy Trains magazine:
A signal tower, slightly modified from Hal Carstens design.
PD
@DMASSO posted:Steve. I just passed the Boars Head truck coming home and said that would be a nice vehicle.
Getting ready for the MTH Pup Trailers - 20-95522 BEDT METCA
Converting the Ford C, it's all I have to work with for the 70's. Guess they skipped a few generations?
Made some refrigeration units for them and the Ford... 
@pd posted:Paper model from the August 1953 issue of Toy Trains magazine:
A signal tower, slightly modified from Hal Carstens design.
PD
Nice! 
I convinced after 8 layouts since 1963, paper is the only way to achieve a real look. Plus you can customize it on the PC the way you want!
@RSJB18 posted:I thought I was finally going to say the F3 was off the workbench, and then this happened.....I was testing the engine last night and the front motor was stalling on the curves, hmmmmm......
Upon closer inspection I discovered that one of the motor leads was broken and hiding under melted insulation. 🤯🤯
I guess all of the handling while I've been working on it caused the wire to break. A quick trip to the soldering station and we have restored full power.
Just need to drop the shell on and call it done. 🤞🤞
The shop foreman is getting a little antsy and wants this job done. More jobs are waiting and the customers are getting impatient. 😂😂
Bob
Bob make sure the motor brush leads have plenty of freedom for movement,….if they’re too snugged up in those zip ties, you’ll have a repeat offender,…..then somebody in the shop is gonna be looking for employment,…..😜
Pat
@SIRT posted:Nice!
I convinced after 8 layouts since 1963, paper is the only way to achieve a real look. Plus you can customize it on the PC the way you want!
@pd posted:Paper model from the August 1953 issue of Toy Trains magazine:
A signal tower, slightly modified from Hal Carstens design.
PD
I love paper models. Easy to work with and customizable.
This flat is all printed on cardstock. The fence is also a print, I added balsa for the stringers and posts.
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@harmonyards posted:Bob make sure the motor brush leads have plenty of freedom for movement,….if they’re too snugged up in those zip ties, you’ll have a repeat offender,…..then somebody in the shop is gonna be looking for employment,…..😜
Pat
That's what I've been struggling with Pat. The clearance around the front pull-mor has been giving me fits......
Some genius in the shop decided to add a cab and figures, which has made wire management a royal PITA!
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:I love paper models. Easy to work with and customizable.
This flat is all printed on cardstock. The fence is also a print, I added balsa for the stringers and posts.
I like paper models, too - yet I have never gotten into actually doing any. Strange. Only so much I can do.
"Realistic" lithography falls into a similar category for me (think Mark 3/16" scale rolling stock); 2 dimensions realistically emulating 3 is an interesting thought.
Very nice.
Here's another paper model, also from Toy Trains magazine, the Parlor Flats depot:
Again, a few modifications, adding a small platform and a functional signal.
Paper models are great. Best part is if you foul it up, just reprint the bits and start over.
PD
@RSJB18 posted:That's what I've been struggling with Pat. The clearance around the front pull-mor has been giving me fits......
Some genius in the shop decided to add a cab and figures, which has made wire management a royal PITA!
Bob
Did you contact engineering about changes made on the shop floor with out submitted engineered plans?…….sounds like corporate is going to be doing a shop tour,….people’s livelihoods are at stake !…..Chop chop!,….I expect a full report by morning,…..😉
Pat
Take an MTH Illinois Central GP9 shell, an MTH GN GP9 PS1 frame with trucks, a mini-commander, and make a dummy with coil couplers. Maybe later on I can figure out the lights; the frame came without, not sure what I am missing or looking for.
@harmonyards posted:Did you contact engineering about changes made on the shop floor with out submitted engineered plans?…….sounds like corporate is going to be doing a shop tour,….people’s livelihoods are at stake !…..Chop chop!,….I expect a full report by morning,…..😉
Pat
Funny you should say that Pat. My former boss was fresh out of Pratt Institute with his engineering degree. He took a job at Grumman Aerospace here on LI in Liaison Engineering. When he interviewed for the job, he asked what the group does. His future boss told him that they work with the mechanics out on the assembly lines troubleshooting issues that come up in construction. At the time, Grumman was early in their Navy contract for the F-14 Tomcat. He told us a story of trying to figure out how to route fuel lines through a wing because the design engineers forgot to cut ports in the ribs of the titanium wing struts. Needless to say, he had a lot of fun......
And for the record on my F3, updated shop drawings have been submitted for approval.
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:Funny you should say that Pat. My former boss was fresh out of Pratt Institute with his engineering degree. He took a job at Grumman Aerospace here on LI in Liaison Engineering. When he interviewed for the job, he asked what the group does. His future boss told him that they work with the mechanics out on the assembly lines troubleshooting issues that come up in construction. At the time, Grumman was early in their Navy contract for the F-14 Tomcat. He told us a story of trying to figure out how to route fuel lines through a wing because the design engineers forgot to cut ports in the ribs of the titanium wing struts.
And for the record on my F3, updated shop drawings have been submitted for approval.
Bob
This was a tough assignment Bob, but that’s why you got it,….but, we don’t anticipate results, we rely on them…..obviously corporate still has an eye on your team, …..as soon as your team is successful, we’ll reward your hard work with something harder to do, …..I’ll expect a fast track of design, & implementation by close of business today, with testing by morning,……When I worked in engineering at Ford Motor Co., that kind of word soup was driven in our heads 6 days a week……🤮
Pat
Sirt, I was hoping to see the results by the time I got to the end of this thread and Voila! You never disappoint.
I just got my Vision Line NS Genset OFF the workbench after being there for a year or so to repair some body damage. It's good as new now.
-Eric Siegel
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@harmonyards posted:This was a tough assignment Bob, but that’s why you got it,….but, we don’t anticipate results, we rely on them…..obviously corporate still has an eye on your team, …..as soon as your team is successful, we’ll reward your hard work with something harder to do, …..I’ll expect a fast track of design, & implementation by close of business today, with testing by morning,……When I worked in engineering at Ford Motor Co., that kind of word soup was driven in our heads 6 days a week……🤮
Pat
So the senior shop foreman was called to the floor. He usually sits in his office all day and pretends to be busy. He was asked to review clearance issues with the front truck. Despite the team's best efforts to re reroute the wiring the issues persisted.
Well , the old pro discovered that the cab was installed on the wrong mounts and was causing the motor to bind on curves. He immediately instructed the crew to shift the cab forward by approximately 1/8" which solved the clearance issues.
So with that finally behind us...the final assembly can be completed. 🤪🤪
Revised shop drawings have been submitted.
At least he didn't need to consult with Liasson Engineering. 😂😂😂
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:I love paper models. Easy to work with and customizable.
This flat is all printed on cardstock. The fence is also a print, I added balsa for the stringers and posts.
Nice,
John
Are the Paper Models you referenced still readily available for re-printing?
What is the source you use to obtain them?
@Craftech posted:Nice,
John
Thanks John. The prints come from a guy in the UK who runs a model RR blog. Mostly N and HO but some of us O gauge guys chime in from time to time. I can send you the link if you are interested, email is in my profile.
Bob
I found these. Maybe Bob can tell you if they are any good.
https://steamtraininfo.com/why-carton-models
https://modelrailwayengineer.c...-card-building-kits/
http://clevermodels.squarespace.com/
https://www.thesprucecrafts.co...veral-scales-2366289
John
@Craftech posted:I found these. Maybe Bob can tell you if they are any good.
https://steamtraininfo.com/why-carton-models
https://modelrailwayengineer.c...-card-building-kits/
http://clevermodels.squarespace.com/
https://www.thesprucecrafts.co...veral-scales-2366289
John
Here's the site I found the prints on.
I have the parts and pieces of four Weaver offset 2-bay hoppers on the bench. This eBay find is providing me the opportunity to expand my Hart ballast hopper fleet. These lightly used Pennsylvania hoppers arrived in good condition but a couple parts needed some miner brass repair. The old markings were removed with SCALECOAT II - Wash Away. The original discharge chutes have been cut away and new styrene flooring is ready to support side chutes which will be fabricated in the coming days.
Cheers, Dave
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Dave, "The original discharge chutes have been cut away and new styrene flooring is ready to support side chutes which will be fabricated in the coming days.", I'll be looking forward to see your progress.
Yes Joe! I want to see how Dave does these also!
@Mark Boyce posted:Yes Joe! I want to see how Dave does these also!
Still chipping away at the bench which is now the center of my train activity. I am working on the discharge hatches for the Hart hoppers. The frame pieces are cut from 1mm styrene sheets. This time I am including the center drop hatche but when viewed trackside, the hoppers won’t look any different from the first set I made.
To help align the pieces I use a simple jig. This helps to measure, place, and replicate while keeping everything plumb and square.
The work on the outside hatch is a little more detailed. With the addition of 3/16 U channel, 3/32’ tubing and 1mm square plastic rod, I am trying to create the illusion of a functional hatch. Works for me! What I love about 3-rail - Nobody is going to come over and count rivets!
I’m currently 1/4 of the way through the hatch work. Twelve more to go!
Cheers, Dave
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Very nice looking work, Dave!
@Darrell posted:
Looks good Darrell . That GRJ is the man .
Following the recent fleet additions, some upgrades were undertaken. To get 62 closer to the real life prototype, the underbody from a B&O car with 6 wheel trucks was swapped with the as manufactured 4 wheel trucks. And since it was opened up anyways, I took the opportunity to add some additional passengers. Maybe I'll have to get a ghost for it at some point.
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Wrapping up a 3rd Rail 4-10-2 TMCC Upgrade. Addressing one of my pet peeves, the spaghetti wiring between the chassis and the shell. I like a single connector to separate the two. In the shell is the Super-Chuffer, obviously the smoke unit and the lighting. The Chuff-Generator and tether wiring is in the frame, and any necessary wiring is in the single cable between them.
The tender shell has the speaker, sound board, and obviously the lighting. The Vanderbilt tenders are "interesting" to cram all the stuff in and make it reasonably neat and easy to work on. I mount the sound board on Velcro to make it easy to remove in case that's necessary.
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Would love to see that locomotive run when finished, GunRunner. 
Oops, it's back in the box to go to the customer. I guess I should have shot a little video.
GRJ....little curious about the speaker location. How are you getting the sound out?
Richard
@Rppoind posted:GRJ....little curious about the speaker location. How are you getting the sound out?
Note sound exits front of speaker and holes are directly below, see markings. Given the size and shape of the tender, it's probably about as good as they could do. This is the standard configuration for 3rd Rail Vanderbilt tenders of that era. It actually doesn't do at all bad...
