@speed3 what did you use to darken the driver rims, and how did you do it? That's something that really bothers me about pre-2003 MTH. NOT looking for a full weathering job but if this mod isn't too difficult I would consider it. Thanks!
@Ted S posted:@speed3 what did you use to darken the driver rims, and how did you do it? That's something that really bothers me about pre-2003 MTH. NOT looking for a full weathering job but if this mod isn't too difficult I would consider it. Thanks!
I used Abaddon Black acrylic paint from Games Workshop to darken the rims and handrails. It’s marketed as a “base” layer so you should only need a couple of coats. I put the engine on its side and powered it with a spare transformer so the wheels could turn while I applied the paint to the rims. You can use the paint straight from the bottle, but I found that dipping the brush in some water before loading up with paint helped achieve a better consistency. The rims alone took about 15 minutes to paint. I feel the same way about shiny rims and handrails on older MTH, so most of my PS1 steam engines get this treatment. It’s super easy and elevates the overall appearance, in my opinion.
What size brush? And how did you avoid getting excess paint on the wheel "treads" (surfaces that contact the rail)? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to screw up locos that I paid several hundred dollars for, even though they aren't worth anywhere near that now.
This afternoon there are 3 Southern cabs awaiting end platforms, 2 GM&O xM&O cabs just glued together, 2 M&StL awaiting decals, 1 DT&I and a Mississippi Central model of a home built caboose. The MS central will have steel casement windows that were used in homes in the 50’s.
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@Ted S posted:What size brush? And how did you avoid getting excess paint on the wheel "treads" (surfaces that contact the rail)? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to screw up locos that I paid several hundred dollars for, even though they aren't worth anywhere near that now.
I used a size 0 angular flat brush. The paint is water based, so any that ended up on the treads or wheel faces was wiped off with a damp cotton swab. Since the paint cleans up so easily, you shouldn’t come close to permanently messing up your locos.
I'm back to working on the 211 Texas Special. I'm trying to make a "frame box" part no. 202-54 (if I remember correctly.) I had been so busy with everything else that I hadn't even noticed it was missing. It would be so much easier to order one than to make one from scratch, but without a credit card or PayPal, you have to work with what you've got.
@Ted S posted:What size brush? And how did you avoid getting excess paint on the wheel "treads" (surfaces that contact the rail)? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to screw up locos that I paid several hundred dollars for, even though they aren't worth anywhere near that now.
Another option is gun blue/chemical blackener. Thats what I use. Same technique. Place the engine upside down in a cradle. Attach clip leads and hold a swab next to the rims. Takes about twenty seconds. You can use paint too. Pretty hard the do damage either way. Have some thinner handy if the paint doesn't go where you want.
Pete
I paint diesel wheels while the unit is running also. I use a q-tip moistened with lacquer thinner to clean the oils off and a small brush to apply the paint. Works well.
@Norton posted:Another option is gun blue/chemical blackener. Thats what I use. Same technique. Place the engine upside down in a cradle. Attach clip leads and hold a swab next to the rims. Takes about twenty seconds. You can use paint too. Pretty hard the do damage either way. Have some thinner handy if the paint doesn't go where you want.
Pete
I’m with Pete on this one....much more permanent to chemically alter the metal than to paint....too many good reliable products on the market today not to take advantage of....in the long run, this is a better end product, permanent, and probably equal to or even cheaper than painting....both of these chassis are PS1 ESE’s with silver painted drivers and chrome tires....yuk!....bottom chassis has the silver paint stripped off with aircraft stripper, then dunked in Caswell Black oxide solution.....simply following their instructions......
Pat
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I made a frame box/fuel tank for the 211 Texas Special today. I'm not completely happy with it, but until I can find a used original part (202-54), this one will have to do.
Have the light green done on two LIONEL 15" offset dome cars; next is the dark green for the Lowey livery of the Norther Pacific North Coast Limited.
Snapshot of the two hanging in my drying booth; and, the "shooting gallery."
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Working on 3 different 675 Lionel locomotives I picked up last year for next to nothing at our TTOS Southern Pacific Division meet auction. One tender whistle was not working and got that going. All 3 675 engines are not smoking so that is next. Broken trailing truck and missing smoke unit installed but not yet wired. I have some details and trim parts to finish. I need to find a stamp to re number one of them since someone removed the cab numbers previously. They will not be perfect but they will be great runners.
Fried the motor in this guy last Friday at the club...
It had been running for a while, and at some point I realized it had been too long since it had gone around... found it barely crawling along, and it was pretty hot... was hoping it would be fine after it cooled off, but nope... you can see the windings on one pole are black... Atlas’ website says they actually have the motor in stock for this!
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Working on a damaged TMCC crane
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@Alex M posted:Working on a damaged TMCC crane
Alex, it's quite possible you can simply pull the pins from the one crane mechanism and put them in the shells for the other. They look to be both JST-EH connector types. The gears, OTOH, look like you'll have to restring those.
@Alex M posted:Hello all,
Haven’t posted in a while , just wanted to say hello and figured I’d show you what’s currently being worked on.
LET'S SEE WHAT'S ON YOUR'S !
Thanks, Alex
Too funny, I saw this post and the video and knew it was a CC II Niagara.
I have two to do on my workbench as well.
What do you use to trim the new drive shafts?
@evanchsa posted:Too funny, I saw this post and the video and knew it was a CC II Niagara.
I have two to do on my workbench as well.
What do you use to trim the new drive shafts?
I use to file them down with a 6 inch sanding wheel. Now I send a bunch of them to Pete (Norton) and he cuts them down to size with his Metal lathe.
Alex
