On my workbench this morn is a test track in the build state. A question comes to mind. I was planning on using tubular o gauge instead of my super O, because I can use an RCS instead of the separate operating blades and magnet that are on my layout. On the RCS, does the uncouple button operate both the magnet and the coil coupler rails? I have a few post war coil coupler cars, and have given some thought to swapping trucks to the magnetic couplers. Your input is appreciated
dick
We moved across country last year and I haven't really organized anything and is not neat and orderly like I like...so today, I started by adding a couple of shelves in a closet in our "craft room". Going to add 1 or 2 more and organize my inventory so I know what I have and what I "need". Going to organize by freight car type, ie, Milk Cars, Pulpwood Cars, Boxcars, etc. Not close to being organized yet, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I have stuff still in totes and whatnot from the move. My goal is to only have larger boxes on the closet floor and all rolling stock on shelves.
I recently had a gear replaced on one truck by Chuck Sartor (great service) and got it put back together last night. Nice to have her back up and running, it's been broken for a couple of years.
I dropped this engine from 3+ feet onto carpet when the shell separated from the chasis...dont' ask. 
I tried to run it after a few choice words, but only the deisel start up smoke fan would run, but the engine wouldn't start, move, no lights... A few more choice words. Went to sleep. Took it apart again today, Checked plugs, wiring etc. Everything seemed to be as it should be. Tried again to run it on my test track. It responded conventionally but not using TMCC. Then I tried BlueTooth. Success. It was like a miracle! It started and responded to all Bluetooth commands. I then moved to my layout and, it would not respond to Legacy. I tried again with BlueTooth...it worked. I shut everything down, cycled the track power, and now, it's running normally in Legacy. I have no idea what I may have done poking around inside this morning, but "it ain't broke (now) and I will not fix it." Well, not quite, the drop did bend some nose guard rails that I'll try to straighten out.
@ToledoEd posted:I dropped this engine from 3+ feet onto carpet when the shell separated from the chasis...dont' ask.
I have the first run of the Lionel UP Veranda turbine from years ago. Muy heavy. You didn't mention it, but some may not realize that these Lionel Verandas have die-cast shells, unlike the MTH version, which has a plastic shell (NOT a criticism), so the weight and kinetic energy stored when this thing hit the floor is painful to think about.
Must truly be built like a tank, inside and out, since it "healed" itself.
Well, he did say the shell separated from the chassis, so I'm presuming he was left holding the shell. Dropping from three feet onto carpet for the diecast shell shouldn't be a huge risk.
John, both, shell and chassis hit the floor...I'm not sure why I let go of the shell when the chassis started the free fall, all I can think of is my brain thought, 'save the important stuff' and I let go of the shell while watching the goodies hit the floor. D500, yes it's a beast. Heavy stuff.
Why drop one when you can drop both of them! 
225e with Bubba ized motor two 2224 tender shells looking for tender frames and cast whistles... building one as a 2235w the other as 2245w
Another bench projedt is my 403 switcher consisting of a 201 / 203 motor 1665 boiler needing replacement markers and moving the e-unit slot Looking for my basket case 1946 726 hopefully to be returned to operating condition. Have my box of electronic control receivers may make it a never sold electronic berkshire
since I had decent luck with the first Natty Boh GP9…
I decided it neede a sister locomotive.
Found this UP GP9 reasonably priced and went to work removing hand rails, and prepping for repaint
Next two are out of sequence.
White base coat first. The tape off and Colonial Red applied
another tape job, and black added on areas of roof.
Below finished project.
Only a caboose left to do.
Here are the 2 225e s I am working on. One was a boiler and steamchest swap as the pilot was ctound down and the cross piece under the cab was just plain gone. Loco 2 motor was Bubba ized needs serious TLC and the boiler has a bad "broom" paint job to be stripped and redone to satin black.
One tender shell I see is genuine Lionel the other questionable as it has a cast in coal pile. Still need 2 frames and 2 cast whistles
I have been working on adding auxiliary air tanks to my MTH Mikado. The Duluth Missabe and Iron Rang Railroad (DM&RR) added them to several road locomotives in order to increase air capacity and to get the air filters further away from ore dust. A long string of short ore jennies has more wheels to break/release than a similar length train with standard length cars thus, the need for more air! It gives these workhorse a more rugged look. I like the look! Had to position the new tanks behind the sand dome instead of in front, which would be correct for the prototype. Hey, we are running on 3-rails and lashing up our trains with big “Lobster-claw” couplers, so you can’t hurt my feelings for the deviation! After a 48 hour cure, I will give the tanks a final finish coat and permanently mount them to the boiler.
Still managing to put off the process of weathering!!
Cheers, Dave
@Jim M Sr posted:I decided it neede a sister locomotive.
Found this UP GP9 reasonably priced and went to work removing hand rails, and prepping for repaint
Below finished project.
Realy nice looking job Jim. 
Where do you get your decals ? 🤔 They look great.
Strasburgs recently acquired CN86 about ready to help out #89 just in time for the busy summer season.
Pete
Dallas Joseph,
Realy nice looking job Jim.
Where do you get your decals ? 🤔 They look great.
Thank you.
I made the decals from pictures I found on line. Copy and paste into “Word” then adjusted the size. Used ink jet printer, so they had to be sealed before wetting and applying.
Engine numbers on the side are dry transfers.
I needed a few of these trucks for some pw slope back tenders I was working on, they seemed to be a little hard to find by themselves, so....... I decided to stock up and wire them up.
Are you fitting out the front truck with a roller as well? I would fit both trucks with rollers and add a 3rd wire to the locomotive as was the pre-war Magic Electrol locos 201 and 1663 except wiring 3rd wire to carry center reail to the loco as switchers may have an issue of stalling on switches and crossings ir not locate magic electrol relays to add magic electrol to postwar
Waiting for the glue to dry on the paper relay shed! Still a work in progress! 8-)
Jim K
@Ed Samsen posted:Are you fitting out the front truck with a roller as well? I would fit both trucks with rollers and add a 3rd wire to the locomotive as was the pre-war Magic Electrol locos 201 and 1663 except wiring 3rd wire to carry center reail to the loco as switchers may have an issue of stalling on switches and crossings ir not locate magic electrol relays to add magic electrol to postwar
What I've noticed on all the 6403b (14) & 2403b (3) tenders I've worked on did not come w/a roller on the front trucks. The roller on the rear truck is for the bell and the flying shoe on the rear truck is for the coil couple on the tender and also that wire goes to the left female plug in the cab of the engine which goes to the front coil coupler on the engine and the other wire connects from the ground in the tender up to the right female plug in the cab of the engine for a better ground.
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
