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Besides a mess, my bench is home to curing ore loads. As I look for projects, I’m avoiding weathering at the moment, I decided to make new ore loads for my MTH ore jennies. Since I am running steam and early diesel power, the look of crude ore suits my fancy. In 1972, crude ore was still being shipped and sorted at the Proctor, MN yard. Train shipments were made up of various grades and colors of ore.

My goal is to create the same affect with my fleet of ore cars. I am using sifted gravel/sand gathered form the shores of Lake Superior.   I cut base inserts from a 1” styrofoam, shaped it to fit my MTH jennies and added plaster to form a mound relief.

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Painted/sealed the forms with latex paint. I coated the top surface with carpenters glue and then added a topping of stone and sand. Once I was satisfied with the look, I used the typical ballasting glue mixture to set the surface. When the weather warms, I will airbrush the loads to highlight the various shades of ore.

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New and old:

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The many mining areas in northern Minnesota produced a variety of ore grades. Trains would deliver cars to the Proctor yard where each car load would be graded. I had a good friend who’s summer job, while in school, was to climb up on jennies and collect ore samples for analysis. Iron content usually ranged from 32-48% with a mix of other compounds and moisture.   In the early days, iron content ran as high as 68%.   The job of the switch yard would be to sort the cars and build a train that met the analytical requirement desired by the steel company buying the shipment.   A crew would then deliver this collection to the ore docks in Duluth or Two Harbors.    Here the cars would be positioned over the dock pockets, some on the outside track and some on the inside track so that when the loads are dropped and mixed in the pockets they would contain the same uniform analytical ore mixture.    Each pocket would be a mix of 5 cars and a typical shipment would require about 250 car loads.   This sorting and arranging of cars was accomplished without the use of modern technology.   A daunting organizational task that actually began way back at the mine.    

Today it’s a far easier process with the advent of taconite pellets which are produced near the mines.  To process taconite, the ore is ground into a fine powder, the magnetite is separated from the gangue by strong magnets, and the powdered iron concentrate is combined with a binder such as bentonite clay and limestone as a flux.

Taconite pellets have a uniform analytically consistency, can be stock piled, bulk loaded with conveyer belts and transported efficiently.

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Dock at Two Harbors:  Loading from the stockpile of taconite pellets.   This ore boat has a self-unloading system which has moved out of the way during the loading of the rear hatches.  

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Note the absence of ore jennies on the dock.  Taconite is loaded and unloaded using conveyer belts.

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Heading soon to Two Harbors to dog sit!  Have a good week!

Cheers, Dave

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Last edited by darlander
@darlander posted:

Besides being a mess, my bench is home to curing ore loads. As I look for projects, I’m avoiding weathering at the moment, I decided to make new ore loads for my MTH ore jennies. Since I am running steam and early diesel power, the look of crude ore suits my fancy. In 1972, crude ore was still being shipped and sorted at the Proctor, MN yard. Train shipments were made up of various grades and colors of ore.

My goal is to create the same affect with my fleet of ore cars. I am using sifted gravel/sand gathered form the shores of Lake Superior.   I cut base inserts from a 1” styrofoam, shaped it to fit my MTH jennies and added plaster to form a mound relief.

IMG_1528



Painted/sealed the forms with latex paint. I coated the top surface with carpenters glue and then added a topping of stone and sand. Once I was satisfied with the look, I used the typical ballasting glue mixture to set the surface. When the weather warms, I will airbrush the loads to highlight the various shades of ore.

IMG_1573

New and old.



The many mining areas in northern Minnesota produced a variety of ore grades. Trains would deliver cars to the Proctor yard where each car load would be graded. I had a good friend who’s summer job, while in school, was to climb up on jennies and collect ore samples for analysis. Iron content usually ranged from 32-48% with a mix of other compounds and moisture.   In the early days, iron content ran as high as 68%.   The job of the switch yard would be to sort the cars and build a train that met the analytical requirement desired by the steel company buying the shipment.   A crew would then deliver this collection to the ore docks in Duluth or Two Harbors.    Here the cars would be positioned over the dock pockets, some on the outside track and some on the inside track so that when the loads are dropped and mixed in the pockets they would contain the same uniform analytical ore mixture.    Each pocket would be a mix of 5 cars and a typical shipment would require about 250 car loads.   This sorting and arranging of cars was accomplished without the use of modern technology.   A daunting organizational task that actually began way back at the mine.    

Today it’s a far easier process with the advent of taconite pellets which are produced near the mines.  To process taconite, the ore is ground into a fine powder, the magnetite is separated from the gangue by strong magnets, and the powdered iron concentrate is combined with a binder such as bentonite clay and limestone as a flux.

Taconite pellets have a uniform analytically consistency, can be stock piled, bulk loaded with conveyer belts and transported efficiently.



Dock at Two Harbors:  Loading from the stockpile of taconite pellets.   This ore boat has a self-unloading system which has moved out of the way during the loading of the rear hatches.  



Note the absence of ore jennies on the dock.  Taconite is loaded and unloaded using conveyer belts.



Heading soon to Two Harbors to dog sit!  Have a good week!

Cheers, Dave

Outstanding work!

It was Super-Chuffer day at the shop, so I knocked out another one.  This was a straight Super-Chuffer & Chuff-Generator upgrade.  It did get the Rule-17 LED headlight and the automatic cab light control, those are standard features when I do these upgrades.  Needless to say, since the customer is going for the Super-Chuffer, it's assumed he likes smoke, so I also tune the smoke unit for maximum performance.  Not bad for a stock Lionel smoke unit, almost like MTH smoke.

It was Super-Chuffer day at the shop, so I knocked out another one.  This was a straight Super-Chuffer & Chuff-Generator upgrade.  It did get the Rule-17 LED headlight and the automatic cab light control, those are standard features when I do these upgrades.  Needless to say, since the customer is going for the Super-Chuffer, it's assumed he likes smoke, so I also tune the smoke unit for maximum performance.  Not bad for a stock Lionel smoke unit, almost like MTH smoke.

Nice wall decor beyond that stair railing.          j

Two 3rd PRR P54 coaches just left the bench after a few updates. Originally my plan was just installing figures, but these cars deserved a lighting upgrade too.

I used the JW&A 20100 Passenger Car LED kit and couldn’t be happier. It was a super quick install and the capacitor works great. Was able to make use of some of the old lighting boards to mount the new strip too. Talk about easy.

Now I just need to find a few 1 or 2 more of these cars!

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@Alex W posted:

Two 3rd PRR P54 coaches just left the bench after a few updates. Originally my plan was just installing figures, but these cars deserved a lighting upgrade too.

I used the JW&A 20100 Passenger Car LED kit and couldn’t be happier. It was a super quick install and the capacitor works great. Was able to make use of some of the old lighting boards to mount the new strip too. Talk about easy.

Now I just need to find a few 1 or 2 more of these cars!

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I like the green seats, that's a step up from the mono-tone interiors of most cars.

@Alex W posted:

I used the JW&A 20100 Passenger Car LED kit and couldn’t be happier. It was a super quick install and the capacitor works great. Was able to make use of some of the old lighting boards to mount the new strip too. Talk about easy.


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Alex , what would be the cost for the lighting kit for each passenger car ?     Are the lights brightness adjustable ?       From the looks of your photo the light seems to be pretty even.

Nice job on the passengers and seats .

Alex , what would be the cost for the lighting kit for each passenger car ?     Are the lights brightness adjustable ?       From the looks of your photo the light seems to be pretty even.

Nice job on the passengers and seats .

Each kit does two cars, here's the listing at Henning's Trains: Passenger Car LED Lighting Kit

The lights are flicker-free, adjustable intensity, and the power module is DCS protected so it won't affect MTH DCS signals.

Each kit does two cars, here's the listing at Henning's Trains: Passenger Car LED Lighting Kit

The lights are flicker-free, adjustable intensity, and the power module is DCS protected so it won't affect MTH DCS signals.

OK John. These are the same ones I've been installing ,it seems forever, designed by you.   I was buying the ones that were sold individually and required soldering.  They also worked well for cabooses that came with only incadescent bulbs.

Perfect lighting system for 3 rail operation.

OK John. These are the same ones I've been installing ,it seems forever, designed by you.   I was buying the ones that were sold individually and required soldering.  They also worked well for cabooses that came with only incadescent bulbs.

Perfect lighting system for 3 rail operation.

Yep, same module for the full kit, just cheaper if you do the soldering.

Not really "at the moment", but the photos are. My own N&W K-2 Mountain, #129.  I missed the 3rd Rail version, and Lionel cancelled theirs, so I am glad that I "built" this one. TMCC Warhorse, 90's. It's only a Pullmor, with all the good and bad that implies. But, he's a bit of a hoss. Smokes, great sound, needs 3 more chuffs. Or at least one.

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My styrene Worthington BL FWH is beginning to look a little tatty. I need to replace the shrouding with brass. The re-numbering is in need of attention, too.  If ever....

Scale correct trailing truck from Lionel USRA 4-8-2; not too big, I guess. Larger, spoked plastic front truck wheels swapped from Lionel General.

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Original RS tender, de-bodied, trucks moved outwards, scratch styrene tender framework shrouded in brass. I'm kind of proud of the N&W shape I achieved from sheet. Original electronics still inside.

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Tender a bit scuffed on starboard side.

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@Lou1985 posted:

Step four: swear profusely because you can't remember where each screw goes.

Yep.  Been there.  I always think, I can remember where each screw goes...  Then I find another issue that delays the repair and then it sits until I get those items address.  I have a "sick bay" large wire basket that I put "in-progress" repairs in when there is a delay.

Thank goodness for cameras and photos to remember how and where each screw goes...  I sometime use a cereal box cardboard to layout and then write notes on.  Punch a small diameter hole with punch and put the screw in the hole.

First- I had to find the workbench. We are deep into several home improvement projects that I am actively participating in. Train projects have been put on the back burner.....but not permanently.....

Opened up a new to me Lionel RS-11 today. I have two others and they are beautiful locos. Added a GRJ YLB battery module, did a full lube, and programmed it into my Cab 1L. I've started printing ID labels with my P-Touch printer so I know what system/ number is assigned when I put it back on the rails. I have a log book too, but this is a quick way to ID the engine.

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Gave it a test run as well.

Bob

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This one just came off the workbench, it started life as a 1997 Lionel conventional locomotive.  It got the works, TMCC, Cruise, Sound, fan driven smoke, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, all LED lighting.  It even got a new motor, once I got into it, I realized the old motor was drawing over an amp free-running, that raised a red flag!

John,

Awesome work on my engine!!! Cant wait to get it!! It was from 1991-1992 :-)

Got another recent purchase serviced and on the layout. It's a MTH Reading SW-1 w/ PS2. I replaced the green battery with one of GRJ's BCR2's, and did a full lube. Also added my label.

Any best methods for greasing the gears out there? I use white lithium grease that I apply with a toothpick. I've seen the syringes, are they worth it?

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Bob

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@ScoutingDad posted:

I bought a pack of cheap syringes with the curved tips. I think they work great and will apply the white lithium right where you want it  - no mess.  I would have the grease from the tooth pick all over. Don't know why - it just happens. I store the grease in the syringes, I have not seen any leaking in 2 years. So I am a fan of reducing the mess.

Yea- my fat fingers tend to wander and I wind up with a mess to clean up. I will give the syringes a shot......🤣🤣

Thanks Jeff.

You can buy Red-N-Tacky in small cartridges that fit in a small grease gun. These are available from auto parts stores and eBay. Just snaps on your standard  grease gun. Was designed to grease ball joints and tie rods that on most new vehicles no longer have fittings by sliding up under the rubber boot. Seems to work well either going directly on the gears or up through gear box on steamers.

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Bob, I greased a fleet of vehicles for years. Always seemed to make a mess no matter how I tried not to. Usually the same thing happened with trains. Especially trying to get the grease in the dispenser. The above method seemed to work and I can remove the syringe and grease my snowblower.

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Last edited by Dave_C
@RSJB18 posted:

Yea- my fat fingers tend to wander and I wind up with a mess to clean up. I will give the syringes a shot......🤣🤣

Thanks Jeff.

See Gunrunner's post. Those are the syringes I also use. As he says pull back on the plunger and no leaks.  As It turns out I never thought I would use more than one until I misplaced one,  filled another and found the original a few weeks later. OH my,,, good thing they do not leak.

This pair of Centipedes just left the workbench for a final test run.  These were PS/1 engines, they got upgraded to TMCC.  I removed the oddball drawbar between the two units and installed electrocouplers.  Since there are full powered units with command and sound, they can run independently or together.  The smoke took some special handling, I couldn't power both smoke uints from the smoke output of the R4LC.  I added a relay to switch the smoke, and then I added a HI/LO smoke volume switch because at full smoke, they're really frog chokers!

These are certainly large engines, each one is two feet long!

MTH Centipedes N1MTH Centipedes N2

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Hello all,

Don't know if anyone has tried this before ,wanted to give it a try and it seemed to have worked out okay. Gave it a long test this afternoon and so far it's holding up well. As we know the journals have zinc rot issues  (TMCC model only) and the parts are no longer available from Lionel, So i decided to see if the passenger car journals would work.

I ordered a passenger car truck took it apart and started matching it up to the power truck journal, it's not to far off . A few minor adjustments some light filing and moving a few things around , made it work pretty good. The original journals were completely busted, so this was worth trying or the engine would have been a shelf queen.

See videos  and pictures , I'll be happy to answer any questions. Videos  and pictures to follow shortly.

Thanks for looking , Alex

817E46A4-62F6-4465-B741-1422BF08B783111D720C-2D58-486B-B8B9-9CA1AF8F465DCAD8C89F-4C31-4F43-A260-DAE1CEBA1700

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Last edited by Alex M
@Alex M posted:

Hello all,

Don't know if anyone has tried this before ,wanted to give it a try and it seemed to have worked out okay. Gave it a long test this afternoon and so far it's holding up well. As we know the journals have zinc rot issues  (TMCC model only) and the parts are no longer available from Lionel, So i decided to see if the passenger car journals would work.

I ordered a passenger car truck took it apart and started matching it up to the power truck journal, it's not to far off . A few minor adjustments some light filing and moving a few things around , made it work pretty good. The original journals were completely busted, so this was worth trying or the engine would have been a shelf queen.

See videos  and pictures , I'll be happy to answer any questions. Videos  and pictures to follow shortly.

Thanks for looking , Alex

817E46A4-62F6-4465-B741-1422BF08B783111D720C-2D58-486B-B8B9-9CA1AF8F465DCAD8C89F-4C31-4F43-A260-DAE1CEBA1700

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Holy cow!!….that’ll breathe a lot of life into dead Acella’s ……..fantastic!!!….our sister will be so proud!!…😉

seriously though, ….fantastic work!!…

Pat

Red- N -Tacky over lithium John ?

I've seen where you use it mostly and I've read so many different articles with kudos for the white lithium..........is there better performance properties with the RNT ?

I've been using it for years and I've never had a problem, so I see no reason to change.  After all, the big tube of Red-N-Tacky is a lifetime supply, so I plan on using it.

Subject: New set up!
Moved in and set up in record time. Ready to rock n roll!
Had to scrap the 2 yard sections and lead in modules. Will add the two SIRT viaduct sections in the 3rd BR with the new layout. Track alignments between the curve modules will be done soon on the main, now garage layout.
What a journey!
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I've been using it for years and I've never had a problem, so I see no reason to change.  After all, the big tube of Red-N-Tacky is a lifetime supply, so I plan on using it.

There was an OGRF flurry, several years ago, stating that R-N-T had corrosive properties.  I quit using it on the basis of that information.  It seemed like great stuff.  What say ye?

@SIRT posted:
Subject: New set up!
Moved in and set up in record time. Ready to rock n roll!
Had to scrap the 2 yard sections and lead in modules. Will add the two SIRT viaduct sections in the 3rd BR with the new layout. Track alignments between the curve modules will be done soon on the main, now garage layout.
What a journey!
20221215_131622
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The new set up looks great Steve.

Bob

@SIRT posted:
Subject: New set up!
Moved in and set up in record time. Ready to rock n roll!
Had to scrap the 2 yard sections and lead in modules. Will add the two SIRT viaduct sections in the 3rd BR with the new layout. Track alignments between the curve modules will be done soon on the main, now garage layout.
What a journey!

Great progress!  Modules are certainly the way to go.  God bless ya!

Looking forward to more great photos from New Dorp, Grasmere, De Jonges and St. George!

There was an OGRF flurry, several years ago, stating that R-N-T had corrosive properties.  I quit using it on the basis of that information.  It seemed like great stuff.  What say ye?

I have a Lucas rep that stops by here at my shop on a bi-monthly basis, although I’m not a fan of red-n-gummy, it certainly does not have any corrosive properties,……We tried the product out for a little while, but found we really didn’t have a use for it. That’s not a basis for the never ending grease & oil argument, if you like it, use it, me personally, I just think it’s too heavy a product. In the colder months, we had a **** of a time getting it to go through a gun, …..but that’s my personal preference, again, if y’all like it, have at it….

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

I have a Lucas rep that stops by here at my shop on a bi-monthly basis, although I’m not a fan of red-n-gummy, it certainly does not have any corrosive properties,……We tried the product out for a little while, but found we really didn’t have a use for it. That’s not a basis for the never ending grease & oil argument, if you like it, use it, me personally, I just think it’s too heavy a product. In the colder months, we had a **** of a time getting it to go through a gun, …..but that’s my personal preference, again, if y’all like it, have at it….

Pat

Pat,

What do you use?

In 2010 I replaced/upgraded every speaker in all my engines. It covered TAS, Ott, ERR, TMCC, PS1 and PS2. When I did it there was a feeling of finality to it. Well those 12 year old speakers are starting to get scratchy. So back to the future I’m starting to replace them.

Question - I have some of the extras from 2010 still that I used as the replacements. Do speakers age from use or from time?

Fun perspective in 2010 the Saints won the Super Bowl and Drew Brees was MVP. 🤣

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@Joe U posted:

Fixing Rio Grande 53 body.

It has a chipped front, missing window braces and the body is warped.  Using combination of bondo, plastic and heat gun.
Need to find:
1. (1) #4 x 1/4” body mounting screw
1. (1) End Frame 51-60

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Pretty darn ambitious there Joe .

I don't know where I would start a project like you have going on there.     Can't wait to see how it looks on the rails.

@Krieglok posted:

Just adding details and trim to MTH 19th century cars. A boxcar and converting two flat cars into…well, flatcars. Just waiting for some detail parts….

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Tom

I'm not sure you should be on this thread Tom.

Is there a Krieglok Locomotive and Car Shop thread somewhere in this forum ?   

Great to see your dedication in time and talent ................and your sharing it with all of us. 

I'm not sure you should be on this thread Tom.

Is there a Krieglok Locomotive and Car Shop thread somewhere in this forum ?   

Great to see your dedication in time and talent ................and your sharing it with all of us. 

Thanks for the kind words, Dallas!

I am not good enough to have my own thread….lol

Tom

Last edited by Krieglok

I always like a few of Menards industrial buildings and was looking for a place for one on my layout. I finally "bit the bullet" and purchased the Power Station.

I liked the the animated lightening bolt sign but thought the rest of the building was a bit "thread bare".

To spruce it up a bit, I added an air scrubber and a HO scale animated sign from Miller Engineering.

As fortune would have it....both the new sign and the building require 4.5vDC. It was just a matter of splicing the sign's power leads into the building's power leads. And instead of using a "AC-to-DC brick" I used an AC-to-DC buck converter board left over from another project. The board was connected to the 18vAC power that's all over the underside of the table.

BTW....I dialed in the buck converter board to 4.5vDC out before any connections were made.

I plan on adding a scaffolding deck and access ladder to the front of the HO sign to finish it out and hide the sign's plug.

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Easy one this time. The rear steps on my Lionel Union Pacific E7s have bugged me since I bought them. They are short little nubs so the truck can be turned and popped off (Liondrive) and so the locomotive can go around 036 curves.

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I don't care if I have to remove the steps to get the trucks off and if these AA units will go around 036 curves, so I replaced the rear steps. I used the rear steps from MTH F units with some 2mm plastic shims underneath. Looks 100% better and they just bolted on.

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@Joe U posted:

Fixing Rio Grande 53 body.

It has a chipped front, missing window braces and the body is warped.  Using combination of bondo, plastic and heat gun.
Need to find:
1. (1) #4 x 1/4” body mounting screw
1. (1) End Frame 51-60

6A9B2F10-E254-474D-9846-5ED9852FD550



When I need a screw for my Lionel projects, I'll buy several at the hardware store and put them in gun bluing, it turns the screw dull black. 

Ok, I was not going to comment on the comments regarding @Krieglok 's post. His conversion work looks great. But the "not here" comments are mystifying to me.  Since the flat cars appear to have "lobster claw" couplers, the 2R or 3RS forums would not be appropriate - but the 3R traditional is.

I am just confused by the comment, just enjoyed seeing the work. I gather the comments related to which forum, confused in Michigan. 

@ScoutingDad posted:

Ok, I was not going to comment on the comments regarding @Krieglok 's post. His conversion work looks great. But the "not here" comments are mystifying to me.  Since the flat cars appear to have "lobster claw" couplers, the 2R or 3RS forums would not be appropriate - but the 3R traditional is.

I am just confused by the comment, just enjoyed seeing the work. I gather the comments related to which forum, confused in Michigan.

I'm pretty sure it was a joke.

@ScoutingDad posted:

Ok, I was not going to comment on the comments regarding @Krieglok 's post. His conversion work looks great. But the "not here" comments are mystifying to me.  Since the flat cars appear to have "lobster claw" couplers, the 2R or 3RS forums would not be appropriate - but the 3R traditional is.

I am just confused by the comment, just enjoyed seeing the work. I gather the comments related to which forum, confused in Michigan.

I understand your confusion. It’s okay. Dallas had suggested I should have my own thread, owing to the work I do, as a compliment on his part about my creations. Very kind of him to do so!

It’s kind of like excellent modelers such as HarmonYards and Others who have their own, on going threads. I am not that good, I just contribute a lot…lol.

Tom

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