@RSJB18 posted:Bob
IT'S ALIVE 
......IT'S ALIVE ........IT'S ALIVE......Dr. Franken*****.........oh never mind. 
Nice work Bob. 
@Mark Boyce posted:Bob, that is a smooth run!! It sounds like it will be a real winner when you are finished!!
Thanks Mark. With the motors wired in series it does stop and start like a higher end Legacy engine. I tried the momentum settings in the app and it barely moves on medium and on high it didn't start until almost full throttle. Top speed is slower naturally but it's a freight engine and I don't have the space for fast freight service anyway......
Bob, I know you have said in the past that thigs are easy, but I have to say in my eyes you are one amazing wizard with these engines!
Just a side note, if you get yourself a 3D printer then you can print your own mounting boards!
@Dallas Joseph posted:IT'S ALIVE
Nice work Bob.
@mike g. posted:Bob, I know you have said in the past that thigs are easy, but I have to say in my eyes you are one amazing wizard with these engines!
Just a side note, if you get yourself a 3D printer then you can print your own mounting boards!
Thanks for the compliment Mike but I consider myself a novice when compared to some of the experts on here. I'm tempted to dive into 3D printing, but I'll stick to old school fabrication methods for now.
Bob
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@RSJB18 posted:
Thanks for the compliment Mike but I consider myself a novice when compared to some of the experts on here. I'm tempted to dive into 3D printing, but I'll stick to old school fabrication methods for now.
Bob
I have my eye on a 3D printer, just waiting for it to come out with the newest model sometime next month! There is so much to print and I am sure over time I can figure out how to design something! LOL
Painted the spreader bars and cables yesterday. The rivet decal instructions recommend using an air brush to avoid too-heavy an application of paint that would obscure the surface detail. I first did a light spray of Polly Scale light gray undercoat. Followed that with a mixture of DecoArt Burnt Umber & Heritage Brick (purchased from Hobby Lobby - $0.99 each). Finished with a light accent spray of Poly Scale Grimy Black.
I am pleased with the results. In my opinion, the rivet detail does add to the appearance. It may not be noticed by the casual observer, but it pleases me to know it's there.
The hardware on the beams and the hooks were made from copper wire and the buttons were cut from 1/2" brass brads. I filed the heads flat. The cables are pieces of string.
Also the price point and overall color selections available at HL was a good find.
Cheers, Dave
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@darlander posted:Painted the spreader bars and cables yesterday. The rivet decal instructions recommend using an air brush to avoid too-heavy an application of paint that would obscure the surface detail. I first did a light spray of Polly Scale light gray undercoat. Followed that with a mixture of DecoArt Burnt Umber & Heritage Brick (purchased from Hobby Lobby - $0.99 each). Finished with a light accent spray of Poly Scale Grimy Black.
I am pleased with the results. In my opinion, the rivet detail does add to the appearance. It may not be noticed by the casual observer, but it pleases me to know it's there.
The hardware on the beams and the hooks were made from copper wire and the buttons were cut from 1/2 copper brads. I filed the heads flat. The cables are pieces of string.
Also the price point and overall color selections available at HL was a good find.
Cheers, Dave
They look great Dave. I'm with you on the rivets. An added detail that adds to the realism of the model.
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:They look great Dave. I'm with you on the rivets. An added detail that adds to the realism of the model.
Bob
Thanks Bob! The process provided a great learning experience!
Cheers, Dave
PS: I still marvel and envy your ability to tackle the electronics part of the hobby!
Dave that looks great! I will have to try and remember to look back on this page when the time comes!
Inspired by this thread https://ogrforum.com/...cab-for-only-pennies from @M. Mitchell Marmel, I'm building a Frankensteeple cab. Not realistic at all, but it's been fun. Started with a 6-8374 switcher and two slope-backed tenders. Still trying to decide on a paint scheme.
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@Mallard4468 posted:Inspired by this thread https://ogrforum.com/...cab-for-only-pennies from @M. Mitchell Marmel, I'm building a Frankensteeple cab. Not realistic at all, but it's been fun. Started with a 6-8374 switcher and two slope-backed tenders. Still trying to decide on a paint scheme.
That's neat. Like a Crocodile and a 44 tonner had a baby.....
@RSJB18 posted:That's neat. Like a Crocodile and a 44 tonner had a baby.....
And an ugly baby at that!
If one looks closely, it's apparent that the crew has to climb through a window to get in or out of the cab. 
In addition to choosing a paint scheme, now I need to figure out how to repurpose the frames from the tenders.
While at York, I'll be looking for a power pole or small pantograph. It looks like a full-size pantograph will overwhelm the cab and create clearance issues.
Nice 44 crock!
Mallard I have long term plans to do a similar steeple cab. I've got one slope back tender and Mitch's cab plan. I still need a chassis, another slope back and time. Seems like absolutely everything is a project right now and my prioritization skills are shot so I've got things everywhere. I want to thank you for sharing, now I know I need to figure out a cab door.
As for color, as an homage to the brains behind Frankenshteeple how about Razor Back Traction red?
@Mallard4468 posted:Inspired by this thread https://ogrforum.com/...cab-for-only-pennies from @M. Mitchell Marmel, I'm building a Frankensteeple cab. Not realistic at all, but it's been fun. Started with a 6-8374 switcher and two slope-backed tenders. Still trying to decide on a paint scheme.
I'm flattered!
@RSJB18 posted:That's neat. Like a Crocodile and a 44 tonner had a baby.....
Hee! Indeed.
@Mallard4468 posted:And an ugly baby at that!
LOL!
If one looks closely, it's apparent that the crew has to climb through a window to get in or out of the cab.
As depicted in my article, yes. However, I figured it out.
In addition to choosing a paint scheme, now I need to figure out how to repurpose the frames from the tenders.
Cut down some tank cars and make water sprinklers, perhaps? 
While at York, I'll be looking for a power pole or small pantograph. It looks like a full-size pantograph will overwhelm the cab and create clearance issues.
Yeah, I wound up using a trolley pole on "Bessie". Quick and dirty answer would be a solid plastic pole from an Atlas/Industrial Rail car...
@coach joe posted:Mallard I have long term plans to do a similar steeple cab. I've got one slope back tender and Mitch's cab plan. I still need a chassis, another slope back and time. Seems like absolutely everything is a project right now and my prioritization skills are shot so I've got things everywhere. I want to thank you for sharing, now I know I need to figure out a cab door.
On "Bessie", I wound up scribing a door from one of the cab side windows and mounting a ladder beneath.
As for color, as an homage to the brains behind Frankenshteeple how about Razor Back Traction red?
You can never go wrong with Razorback Red!
Mitch
@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:I'm flattered!
Hee! Indeed.
LOL!
As depicted in my article, yes. However, I figured it out.
Cut down some tank cars and make water sprinklers, perhaps?
Yeah, I wound up using a trolley pole on "Bessie". Quick and dirty answer would be a solid plastic pole from an Atlas/Industrial Rail car...
On "Bessie", I wound up scribing a door from one of the cab side windows and mounting a ladder beneath.
You can never go wrong with Razorback Red!
Mitch
Re the door, since I procrastinated for so long, I was going for quick-and-dirty. IMO, most people won't notice, and I wasn't going for realism anyway. If I tried to scribe one, it would look like Homer Simpson did it.
Thanks for the tip regarding the Atlas plastic pole - I didn't know that Atlas made such a thing. Realistically, it will be whatever I can find at a parts dealer or in a junk box.
@coach joe posted:Mallard I have long term plans to do a similar steeple cab. I've got one slope back tender and Mitch's cab plan. I still need a chassis, another slope back and time. Seems like absolutely everything is a project right now and my prioritization skills are shot so I've got things everywhere. I want to thank you for sharing, now I know I need to figure out a cab door.
As for color, as an homage to the brains behind Frankenshteeple how about Razor Back Traction red?
For the cab and chassis, I used the 6-8374 because I found a scratched up one at a meet for $30. I realized that I needed something with a small can motor in the chassis because the slope of the tender bodies leaves very little room above the trucks. Needed to move the circuit board to sit under the cab. It runs perfectly, and of course it doesn't need to pull a lot of cars. It was the perfect length. I think I paid $5 each for the tenders and $5 for a sheet of plastic to hold the sides together, so I'm in it for $45 plus the pole, glue, paint, and decals.
As for prioritizing projects, I'm in the same boat. I need to live to be at least 120 to get most of them done. FWIW, I think I've spent a total of about 4-6 hours on it so far, so it wasn't a huge investment of time. IMO, it's a good kick-starter, since it can be boxed up and set aside if it gets in the way.
@darlander posted:Painted the spreader bars and cables yesterday. The rivet decal instructions recommend using an air brush to avoid too-heavy an application of paint that would obscure the surface detail. I first did a light spray of Polly Scale light gray undercoat. Followed that with a mixture of DecoArt Burnt Umber & Heritage Brick (purchased from Hobby Lobby - $0.99 each). Finished with a light accent spray of Poly Scale Grimy Black.
I am pleased with the results. In my opinion, the rivet detail does add to the appearance. It may not be noticed by the casual observer, but it pleases me to know it's there.
The hardware on the beams and the hooks were made from copper wire and the buttons were cut from 1/2" brass brads. I filed the heads flat. The cables are pieces of string.
Also the price point and overall color selections available at HL was a good find.
Cheers, Dave
Dave,
The equipment looks great. the rivits really “pop”…lol. Look forward to seeing the entire package when it is finished!
Tom
A bit more progress on my MTH N&W C-630
After installing the better factory made intake grills everything was sanded and primed again.
A couple days later, I painted the shell with Pevler blue from Tru-Color. My first airbrush work in a long, long time.
The front number board and headlight bracket was modified and attached to the shell up inside the new high nose. I fitted the number boards too.
Pilots were painted and reattached, with details (air hoses and step edges) to be painted later.
Decals are being applied today. They are ShellScale decals and they are excellent. Detail painting is being done on each side next.
Tom
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I received the cab interior and engineer figures from Lionel yesterday. The New Haven ran their early Alcos long hood forward, which is how the engine is marked. I ordered the correct cab interior to cover the motor to the rear of the cab with the seats facing in the right direction. What surprised me a little was that the control stand is on the left side of the piece, which would make sense for short hood forward (engineer on the right).
So my question.....did Alco switch the controls to be on the right side of the cab for long hood forward or did the engineer sit on the left side in this configuration?
A minor point, but my cuiorisity gets the the better of me sometimes.
I will have to modify both the shell and the interior piece to make it fit. It's fits under the cab, but not in between the side walls of the body.
Bob
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