That is a good price for that 384. I saw it for sale. It is a little worn, but that seems like a good deal. I was thinking you should figure about $500 minimum for a nice original standard gauge steamer. Which, to some can be a lot more than a few hundred. But, sometimes you get lucky. No worries. Just a discussion. Cheers!
rtraincollector posted:TeleDoc posted:This is for Rtraincollector...Can you fill me in on the brush plate problem on the 1688 loco's. From what you posted, you mention 2 motors, and one that you can't get a brush plate for. I'm curious which motor??
Teledoc all I know is there is 2 version of brush plates if you call Jeff kane he could tell you more as he can only get one. I have a friend I send stuff to when I run into a problem that has all the presses and dies etc. And that was what happen twice to me. I have 1 good ones now and another coming I hope is good lol. it's been a while since I delt with them about a year. so can't remeber all the details but know between talking with Jeff and friend it was determine I had the one Jeff couldn't get the brush plate for. The other there are repo out there.
The 1688 & 1688E, depending on the year, had different motors. The early issue is similar to the 1681 motor (Lionel Jr.) that uses the 1681E-6 brush plate, of which there are two versions. 1681E-6 and 1681E-6X, and the difference is the size of the hole for the armature shaft. Yes TTender is out of them, but they are, in fact, still available, you just have to know where to look. This same motor changed the Number Plate on the bottom of the motor from "Lionel Jr." to "Lionel 027". Later versions, used the same motor that was used in a 1684, which looks a lot like a Postwar 1655/1656 motor with the way it mounts inside the shell. This later model has the screw through the side of the body, (from side to side) along with a spacer to take up slack inside the shell. The brush plate for that one is OM-18, which is readily available also. Both motors are easy to work on, and the parts are available. You just have to check ALL the parts dealers, and not just Jeff. Are the parts going to vanish? Absolutely they will vanish at some point, but for now, they are still available.
So I seem to see a lot on ebay that have paint that appears to have runs. Not having seen originals in person yet, I assume if there are runs in the paint, it has had a repaint job done to it. Or am I wrong? I assume they took the time originally to produce a product that had a nice finish, or am I wrong in this assumption? Anytime I see runs in the paint I just assume it was someone doing a crumby restoration job (unless these originally had a quick-and-dirty paint job without paying attention to a fine finish, but I find that difficult to believe).
Überstationmeister posted:Runs and drips are relatively normal for tinplate. Most were dipped in paint and then hung up to dry. I think they called it "Japan finish" (same thing used on the Ford Model T). ...
"Japan Black" refers to the black lacquer paint used on many prewar models (and yes, also on car parts).
for some reason not available in the US anymore.cheers...gary
My tin is all prewar standard gauge, so my exposure is limited, but none of my equipment has runs or drips.
I like my restored 390E a lot. The brown baby states are original, almost pristine, with perfect boxes and original paper. I think they make a handsome set.
Everyone has different tastes and sees thing differently. One reason to have a public forum. I think a good eye can spot a nice piece. And if it is a good deal, more the better.
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Bill Hirsch Auto in Newark, NJ still sells nitrocellulose black lacquer for Model T restorations but they get $95.00 a gallon.
