What type of power supply for my LionChiefs

Save up, and splurge for a ZW-L.  You can run what you have, and a lot more in the future.  Also, make sure you have at least four power drops to each main line.

Also, forgot to welcome you to the forum.

Thanks Bob,

OK, but I am not sure what you mean by power drops.

I am running a small 6 foot X 4 foot layout now on the living room floor with one 6-37110 - Fastrack power track for each of 2 lines; each connected to a wall power supply.

So, are you saying I will need 4 of those power tracks per each line connected to the transformer?  I am assuming that the transformer levers will have to be set to push 18v through the lines for LionChief locos.

RickM46

no not 4 different power supplies, but 4 connection points. 

another way to look at it is where the one power hooks up, run more wire to 3 more connection points.  the bottom of the fastrack has tabs to hook up wire.

it makes sure power is all over the track plan and not depended on the track connectors.

I've been powering my small layout with a single CW-80, powering 3 LC+ locos, 7 buildings, a lighted caboose, and 5 lighted passenger cars.   So a single CW-80 might be sufficient.   Your mileage will vary.  

The comments about multiple power connections to the track are spot-on.   At least two for each circuit/oval.

There's a great book about wiring a toy train layout that's well worth the investment. 

A long mainline needs power supplied from the transformer applied every few feet....those are the "power drops" they're referring to.  You can't count on the track itself to conduct the electricity around the track....copper wire does a much better job.

You can run two wires from the transformer for each mainline and connect the track to the copper wire.  Or, to save on wire, you can run one per mainline plus one additional to be shared (a shared/common neutral, I believe it's called).  If you do the latter, the transformers have to be phased.

The book explains all this.  http://www.amazon.com/Wiring-Y...Layout/dp/0897784774

Gentlemen,
Thanks for the info.
I will put the book mentioned above on my list.
So, as not to wear your patience, I think the following are decisions I have to make regarding my modest 25 foot X 18 foot layout with 3 separate lines, Polar Express, B&O, Polar Express Trolly.
I intend to stick with FasTrack and its power track that has  barrel connectors and red LEDs; one for each line.
I currently have 2 Lionel 18v, 4amp, 32 watt wall supplies with barrel connectors to the power tracks; 1 for each of my 2 small oval lines on my living room floor; but for my envisioned rectangle, 25 feet X 15 feet, and some lighted accessories, these may not be enough.
So, now, maybe I need more wattage; in that case, I will have to decide on Lionel's:
6-81603 Lion Chief 18v, 4amp, 72-Watt,  power supplies for each track OR a
6-14198 CW-80 80-Watt Transformer OR a
6-37947 GW-180 180-Watt Transformer.
Per the suggestions above, it doesn't end there.
If I choose the CW-80 or GW-180, then is there a barrel connector wire available from them to the FasTrack power track????
I see where the CW-80 or GW-180 does let you set the voltage from 0-18v via some mechanism - is that a switch or ????  The LionChief locos need a constant 18v.
For lighted accessories, will I need to run wires from the accessories to the transformer OR from the accessory to the nearest FasTrack????
Lastly, in any case, I will have to run wire from each power track to at least 4 power drops on that line.  I take it, I will need a 2 wire harness to do that at some gage and then find out if I can daisy chain from one drop to the other or run 4 separate connections to each drop????  I do see where Lionel does sell controller to controller cable - 2 wires in a sheath.
Any comments would be appreciated.
RickM46

Well let's see, you ask a lot of good questions so I 'll do my best to help you out.  First off conventional toy train transformers have a knob or slide that you vary the voltage to the track.  This type of power supply will let you run almost any three rail toy ever made. They take in yout household 115v and put out up to 18 or 20 volts ac. (Most actually start at 3 to 5 volts, not zero)  To run your lionchief engines you just set the out put to roughly 18 volts and use your remotes.

I personally would avoid the cw-80 as there are some problems using that with mth engines.  I know you don't have any now but you may want some in the future.  I would think that you would definitely want to have a conventional power supply to at least one loop.  

If you stick with the barrel connections for the fastrack that's just fine. To supply power to them you can make your own wire harnesses /hookups cheaper than buying them but that depends on what you are comfortable with.  

I would power the accessories separately for a permanent layout. In otherwords not from the tracks,however that is definitely the traditional method. If you had a constant voltage source to the track you could power your accessories from the rails but then that power is not available to run the train or lights on the cars. 

I hope this helps you out some. Definitely get a toy train wiring book.   Good luck, happy new year 

jhz

jhz, thanks for the info; especially on the CW-80; and for running accessories off the track.

I am now thinking I will need a transformer and not the small 36w wall power supplies that I have now.

My advice would be to get the CW-80 for the following reasons.  

1. It has 80 watts of power which is about 4.5 amps at 18 volts which is enough power to meet your described needs.  The Lionchief engines that I have use much less than 1 amp.  My Polar Express with five lighted cars pulls about 0.5 amps on my Christmas loop and with smoke on about 0.6 amps.  My Penn Flyer with five cars pulls about 0.3 amps and with smoke on about 0.5.
2. It is AC power and it is compatible with Lionel's operating track,  accessories , and even older trains with AC motors.
3. It has a second power post for fixed accessory power making wiring easier.
4. It has a great circuit breaker. 
5. I think it looks cool.

If you think you want more power for the future, the GW-180 has 10 amps with all the same features, but has a large external transformer the connects to the CW-80 look alike controller.  

You will need to buy or make connector wires.  Lionel sells power terminal Fastrack sections that are comparable with the CW-80 with the appropriate connectors pre made.  

You may need to learn how to wire your tracks with multiple power drops because the track to track connections and length may reduce voltage around the layout and your trains will slow down as they get further from your power source. However, start with one power feed per loop and see how you do.  Fastrack is a pretty good conductor of electricity.

The picture below is of a GW-180 with two power drops to my loop and a white wire to accessories. 

The picture below shows shows the connection tabs on each piece of fastrack.  This is where you can wire power drops.

Not only that, but it is user-programmable to be set at any level desired and will stay at that setting until re-programmed.

Thanks a bunch Miken for the photos and info on the CW-80. 

I am looking at the bottom of one of my FasTracks (for the first time) and I think I have located 2 square raised terminals used for power drops. Each square raised terminal has 2 contacts(1 for the middle rail and 1 for the outer rail) for attaching the ends of 2 power wires.  Now, yet for another question: what kind of end to you use to attach a wire to a contact??  The track has notches cut through its ribs to accommodate the run of a power wire.  So, if you run a power wire to the first square terminal, then, can you run a power wire from the 2nd square terminal to the next power drop??  I think they call this daisy chaining.

Miken, thanks for the picture of the GW-180 - I didn't realize that the power supply is just as big as the transformer; that is some footprint.

Lastly, thanks a bunch from the folks who took the time to respond to my questions and hope that there will be more suggestions.

Now, I feel like a Beagle on a mission to design power to my layout. 

I am leaning toward a

CW-80 transformer;

Fastrack power tracks that are already wired with spade ends to the transformer;

Finding lengths of wire  (16 gauge if possible, 18 gauge minimum) that are paired red and black in a sheath for the power drops (I saw that Lionel has some, namely Lionel 6-14197 Controller to Controller Cable).

Using the programmable accessory leads on the transformer to supply constant voltage to accessories.

Is there any reason that this can't be used for a static speed trolley line?

None at all!

Awsome. I can power more lines with what I already have than I realized.

Folks,

I have just found the following YouTube videos that take me further in wiring my layout; they are valuable:

Wiring your layout: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JKA0GD_564.

Wiring your switches: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0McntbmQ9I#t=65
How to phase transformers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iASQfnE6pCk.

I've had dreams of ZW's and MTH Z4000's, but I've "settled" on a few CW-80's which I've picked up at local train shows (Greenberg, etc.) for relatively cheap ($50-$70) and I've been very happy with them.

They look great, they are not too heavy/bulky, and should one die on me, well, I can likely get another for around $50 at next year's show.

I'm sure I'll hit a wall or limit at some point, but so far so good.

Rick,

I use four CW80s to power my layout. I have never had a problem with them and am able to run multiple locomotives on a single loop. As mentioned above, they have a programmable accessory output that is very helpful. I use one dedicated CW80 to run all of my accessories and track switches.

As far as compatability with MTH, I also run a Proto3 engine with the CW80 and DCS Remote Commander with no problems.

In order to run your power feeds to the track, you can simply by spools of red and black wire at your home improvement store.( I used 16gauge) Then you will need .110 female disconnects that will attach directly to the bottom of your Fastrack. Below is a photo of the connectors and a link to where you can buy them very cheap.

Jay in Ottawa

Link to Disconnects

Jay and Murnane - thanks a bunch for the info!!

I am leaning toward the CW-80 and multiple ones; 1 for each loop.

Info on the types of female connectors for FasTrack is priceless.

I am in awe with all of the great info this forum has given me.

RickM46