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I had been hoping to get 2 rail pilots to replace the 3 rail pilots but they have not materialized and a recent email to Sunset about the issue brought no response. 

I see two alternatives . . .

1/ Close up the hole around the Kadee with styrene. Not sure how good a job I can do with that.

2/ Remove the Kadee and mount false doors on the pilots. I suspect the hole is too large for that though.

 Anyone know who offers these doors? I saw them here a while back. Seems it is not Precision O Scale.

E8Kadee

How have others handled this?

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11DC230A-9BF2-44C8-9591-E8FB1FC182B465EEBB27-D5FB-4AE8-9232-C59FB13050668877CE42-2853-4ABE-B90D-B814FBDA22C3923D8C1E-AD6E-484C-93E1-D87CE6B38D2AA9F8CCF5-F8EB-4622-8A9E-4BBFE757B249Side by side comparison. Didn’t put it on the training unit cuz I didn’t feel like doing the first car in the Zephyr. Not sure why I didn’t paint the clipper silver since I did my Santa Fe F7s and my GN F7s at the same time and all of those got painted. I really don’t like the CB&Q pilots chz the Q did not have hoses on the E8 pilots

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I don't have E8s, but I have E7s.   I did start with 2 rail units so I did not need new pilots.   However, to allow the "glad hans" for the connecting cars to clear the pilot, I used the "long-shank" Kadees on my E units.   They stick out a little bit longer than I would like for appearances, but they allow coupling and uncoupling from GGD or other cars with Kadees easily and correctly.

Without the long shank, the glad hans on the car hit the point of the pilot and cause the car the uncouple.

c.sam posted:

Someone mentioned the size of the hoses on these in an earlier thread but I never followed up and lost it. What is the consensus about the size of these as evidenced in Matt's nice photos above?  Are they too large? (sure appear to be..)

You're right, c.sam . . . they are large.  In real life, the m-u hoses (on each side of the coupler) consist of three hoses on locomotives equipped with electrically-controlled sanding, and five hoses on those with air-controlled sanding.  The main reservoir hose -- furthest inboard of the three --is of a larger diameter than the others, but is not as large as the brake pipe hose (next to the coupler).  The application and release pipe and actuating pipe hoses (and the  sanding control hoses, if equipped [one  for forward, one for reverse]) are of the smallest diameter*.  I don't know the actual measurements.  Note: Although there is piping for m-u hoses on both sides of the pilot, some railroads have been thrifty with the hose budget, and only apply hoses on one side.  This results in a lot of bad language when employees have to unscrew hoses and move them to the other side when coupling locomotive units.

The glad-hands of all the m-u hoses are the same, and hoses can accidentally be crossed with each other, but the brake pipe hose glad-hand will not couple to the m-u hoses.  The train lined main reservoir hose is thicker because of being built stronger to withstand constant140 psi air pressure, and has a larger interior diameter because of the rate of flow required to charge the brake pipe after a train has been assembled and is being readied for an initial terminal air brake test.

*  Most first-generation diesels had air-controlled sanding, but, as years passed, many were converted to electric control (through two of the pins on the m-u receptacles and jumper cables).  With both systems, sand is blown by compressed air, through the sand pipe, to the wheels.  The difference is in the way the sanders are controlled.

Last edited by Number 90

I had to drill new hols towards the back and cut about 3/16' off the front. Ill see if I have one that didn't get installed to illustrate the change. It seems like a lot of work to do 10 locos but it really wasn't. I had more issues with the airbrush and painting than anything and that's cuz its been 4 years since I used the airbrush and forgot a few things.

Bob Harris posted:

 

Jez  more Kadee coupler questions. Alan please lock this before it out of hand.People need to figure it out on there own. Not wait for a free ride.

Bob

Isnt that what this forum is all about Bob? The free exchange of information. Not all of us are retired with endless time at our disposal to sit around and figure all this out. A good friend of mine helped me and I'm more than willing to help other people. You don't have to like but please respect it.

Matt Makens posted:
Bob Harris posted:

 

Jez  more Kadee coupler questions. Alan please lock this before it out of hand.People need to figure it out on there own. Not wait for a free ride.

Bob

Isnt that what this forum is all about Bob? The free exchange of information. Not all of us are retired with endless time at our disposal to sit around and figure all this out. A good friend of mine helped me and I'm more than willing to help other people. You don't have to like but please respect it.

Excellent point Matt!!!!!

Besides, is Bob Harris even a 3RS modeler anyway? Maybe THAT's why he doesn't care?

Santiago,

   Thanks, tell Scott he made it, I just screwed on the pilot and couplers!   Now, the mods you make are truly amazing, nicest F units I've every seen.  Well done!

Matt,

    Yeah, I was one of those who balked at the yellow grab irons when I first saw them, but now I'll admit they do add to the realism of the engine and make it unique from any other warbonnet I've seen.   Overall I love the engine particularly how great it looks and how smooth it runs.  These engines are a great choice for 3RS since you can have the fixed pilots and scale couplers with minimal effort.  The only thing better is the MTH Proto 3-2 engines because you get that and you can easily convert to 2-rail, but they are not as accurate and don't look as good as the 3rdrail version.  I plan on going 2-rail in the future at least in part.  Maybe a new layout with both 2-rail and 3-rail.  So buying MTH engines makes a lot of sense since they run on both.  I have to decide if my next 3rdrail engine will be 2-rail or 3-rail.  Hmmmm.

 

Last edited by Rich Battista

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