Why Kadee Couplers?

Will kaydee couplers work with existing rail king and premier O scale auto decoupling still or do I need to modify the engine couplers also to get this to work? I understand that they couple manually better.

Kadee couplers do not operate with command coupler functions in DCS or TMCC/Legacy nor with uncoupling tracks.  Manual only.

I'm finding the newer 2019 2020 cars couple fine without a giant bump example sd70ace bush with funeral car seems to work well

Kadee has an electric magnetic uncoupling mechanism.  I have a few somewhere, however, I just use the standard between the rail magnets glued in at 43 normal locations and a long thin screwdriver and twist the couplers everywhere else. 

I have never used Kadee's two piece split three rail magnets.  I would be interested to know if Kadee's split 3r magnets refer magnetism to the center steel rail??

A long small flat screwdriver is kinda a de facto standard by many folks locally.

Kadees are very dependable.

Using a screwdriver to decouple kinda kills the realism hehe

Jamos posted:

Using a screwdriver to decouple kinda kills the realism hehe

But having to bash into the car you want to couple to is OK?

Neither is good. I've been reading using a Dremel tool to bevel the inside of the engine coupler fixes the bashing issues

I thought I read a post by mth that Said they were going to add the option of kaydee auto decouplers to those engines what happened to that

Well for now sorry George hw ur gonna be bashed to couple just sit tight on that casket 

Tom Tee posted:

Kadee has an electric magnetic uncoupling mechanism.  I have a few somewhere, however, I just use the standard between the rail magnets glued in at 43 normal locations and a long thin screwdriver and twist the couplers everywhere else. 

I have never used Kadee's two piece split three rail magnets.  I would be interested to know if Kadee's split 3r magnets refer magnetism to the center steel rail??

A long small flat screwdriver is kinda a de facto standard by many folks locally.

Kadees are very dependable.

So ur kaydees will uncouple if parkednover magnets?

Jamos posted:

So ur kaydees will uncouple if parkednover magnets?

The magnet will attract the trip pin (the simulated air hose) hanging under the coupler, and pull the coupler head off center. Since the typical Kadee ^{(correct spelling)} depends on a raised lip on the car-facing surface of its knuckle to stay coupled under tension (pulling forces), simply backing up slightly while over the magnet will allow the couplers to move sideways and disengage.

---PCJ

RailRide posted:

Jamos posted:

So ur kaydees will uncouple if parkednover magnets?

The magnet will attract the trip pin (the simulated air hose) hanging under the coupler, and pull the coupler head off center. Since the typical Kadee ^{(correct spelling)} depends on a raised lip on the car-facing surface of its knuckle to stay coupled under tension (pulling forces), simply backing up slightly while over the magnet will allow the couplers to move sideways and disengage.

---PCJ

Okay so that works just like the bachmann couplers with magnets

I use the three rail magnets, they work great when installed properly .  And you can get tricky and install them where you normally wouldn't, or without cutting ties.  

clem k posted:

I use the three rail magnets, they work great when installed properly .  And you can get tricky and install them where you normally wouldn't, or without cutting ties.  

Any videos of how to do this thanks

Jamos posted:

clem k posted:

I use the three rail magnets, they work great when installed properly .  And you can get tricky and install them where you normally wouldn't, or without cutting ties.  

Any videos of how to do this thanks

Lots of information on the 3-Rail Scale Forum (3RS), plus try searching for the various videos posted by "laidoffsick".

You might want to give this a look. It is S gauge, but the ideas will work for any size:

magnets & Kadee #5s

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Martin H posted:

Lionel O27 track is different from regular lionel tubular track.  I believe o27 was introduced after as a more economical track system.

 

Lionel Tubular Track:

1) black ties

2) straights are 10"

3) ties are higher profile.

4) minimum available curve is 31"

 

Lionel O27 tubular Track

1) brown ties

2) straights are about 8.75" 

3) ties are lower profile

4) minimum available curve is 27"

 

This isn't something I read somewhere.  I own all the above mentioned examples and have measured them myself.

 

Originally Posted by tr18:

 

Lionel 027 track is NOT 42" diameter

 

They were talking about O27 profile track, I believe Lionel made other sizes in that profile (as opposed to traditional Lionel tinplate track), and K line did as well. O27 track has small ties, the rail profile is smaller and to me actually looks more prototypical (if you add ties to O27 track, and weather it, doesn't look half bad).  

Big Jim posted:

Originally Posted by servoguy:

Did any of you guys that are complaining about "lobster claw" couplers coming uncoupled by themselves read my post about fixing this problem?  The fix is simple and quick, less than 5 seconds per coupler.  Once the couplers are modified, they do not come open by themselves.  

I must have missed it. Can you provide a link to your post?

There is no fixing those oversized, ugly, clunking, lobster claws.  I’ve run trains with 70 cars.  Can’t do that with claws fix or no fix and has Hot Water stated there’s nothing better that the run out slack when you start a train.

Jamos posted:

clem k posted:

I use the three rail magnets, they work great when installed properly .  And you can get tricky and install them where you normally wouldn't, or without cutting ties.  

Any videos of how to do this thanks

Really don't need a video. For normal installation just go by the directions included with the magnets. The thing is, to go exactly by Kadee directions for the couplers and the magnets. Don't be sloppy with your work and don't ever say good enough.  And the older style coupler #805 work better than the new 700 series. The  oxide red Delrin couplers      IMO operate the best, easier to see and the plastic is lighter and more slippery, However some people think their to weak. I only broke one, I let the slack get me. I use the metal #805 now, but the majority is the 700 series. I have some  installations using single magnet on top of ties with booster super magnets.  Even installed on turnout.  I admit there was trial and error until I got it just right.  Like HOT said laidoffsick has the best videos.

Installation in existing ballsted Gargraves track. I think i used a sharp chisel or utility knife to cut the ties and pliers to pull out the pieces. The pieces outside the rails where glued back.

Jamos posted:

Using a screwdriver to decouple kinda kills the realism hehe

Not really when you think about it.  I walk (or rather use to*), in order to hand throw the turnouts.  So no big deal to manually uncouple the cars.  Manual uncoupling is actually very realistic.

*going through some foot problems again.

Tom Tee posted:

Jamos posted:

Using a screwdriver to decouple kinda kills the realism hehe

Not really when you think about it.  I walk (or rather use to*), in order to hand throw the turnouts.  So no big deal to manually uncouple the cars.  Manual uncoupling is actually very realistic.

*going through some foot problems again.

Right.  I can't think of any prototype equipment that uses track magnets or electrocouplers for uncoupling.

Rusty

K-Line did sell a few 4 car sets with one car as a claw-Kadee, the rest Kadees.  Ore cars, I think.  Truck mounted Kadees, I believe.  Do not know if the Kadees were at the same height as body mounted.  Or if they wete true Kadees....

I have used non-metallic Kadee couplers and/or gearboxes for some of my 3rd Rail tenders where everything but the wheels is isolated for the TMCC antenna. 

Dominic Mazoch posted:

K-Line did sell a few 4 car sets with one car as a claw-Kadee, the rest Kadees.  Ore cars, I think.  Truck mounted Kadees, I believe.  Do not know if the Kadees were at the same height as body mounted.  Or if they wete true Kadees....

At some point in time (I guess when the patent ran out) K-Line was selling their own version of a Kadee coupler. I still have some. They were basically the same as a Kadee but the K-Line version was die cast and I believe the coupler box was slightly larger than the Kadee coupler box. It was pretty much a Kadee knockoff. K-Line actually sold a few 2 rail cars with their coupler installed on them. I have one new in the box. 

On my Geep diesels the compromise was to put Kadees on the trucks. These are 805 style which does hold the claw. Testing proved it easily ran on 36" curves with 40' boxcars with Kadee body mounts. Besides they look much better.

Tom Tee posted:

Jamos posted:

Using a screwdriver to decouple kinda kills the realism hehe

Not really when you think about it.  I walk (or rather use to*), in order to hand throw the turnouts.  So no big deal to manually uncouple the cars.  Manual uncoupling is actually very realistic.

*going through some foot problems again.

So basically no magnets are cool just use a small  screwdriver like a rail operator would have to. How does this work with the auto decoplers  on the mth engines?

Jamos posted:

Tom Tee posted:

Jamos posted:

Using a screwdriver to decouple kinda kills the realism hehe

Not really when you think about it.  I walk (or rather use to*), in order to hand throw the turnouts.  So no big deal to manually uncouple the cars.  Manual uncoupling is actually very realistic.

*going through some foot problems again.

So basically no magnets are cool just use a small  screwdriver like a rail operator would have to.

Personally, I always preferred wood "chop-sticks" with the point slightly sharpened in a pencil sharpener. I personally NOT recommend using a small metal screwdriver, incase you slip and touch the center rail, while also engaging the metal Kadee coupler.

How does this work with the auto decoplers  on the mth engines?

What are "auto decoplers"? If you mean the MTH "Electro-Coupler", then yes, then generally couple pretty well with the Kadee 805 series couplers. However, most "Electro-Couplers" and lobster claw couplers will NOT couple with the latest, improved, Kadee 740 series couplers.

I'm not sure about 3 rail but several close 2-railer friends of mine are using powerful magnets buried in ballast so the uncoupling magnets can't be seen. I like that they work for any Kadee equipped car, not just uncoupling the engine.

Since many like their couplers so big, I'm wondering if they could use G scale Kadee couplers to get better reliability with them instead of using rubber bands or super glue to keep the knuckles from opening on their equipment in long trains.