Williams 44-Ton Upgrade with ERR CC-Lite, Sound, & Electrocouplers

I haven't started work on mine yet - still awaiting couplers to arrive as i want to start from the ground up, so to speak.

Yes those railings are very fragile, and i have already started making a set out of brass. They aren't that hard to do, once i get the jigs made. It would seem that our Forum member Andre who has been offering some nice brass products might want to look into offering a complete set of replacement railings in brass (both painted and unpainted). It looks like there might just be a market for these.

jackson

I might just buy a set from you if you're making jigs to do them.   I was planning on just soldering them up.

I figure to use gun black to blacken the rails, it's way more robust than paint.  After that, I'll paint the ones that are yellow.

John, if i get an acceptable set made i'll make another one for you. let's see if the first one comes out OK .

Great idea of using gun black - i have a product called "Blacken it" Think i'll try it.

jackson

I think the gun black will do a very nice job and it'll also be very easy to apply, what's not to like.   I have several types in the closet, I'll try a couple on some brass rod and see which one looks best.

I wait with eager anticipation to see how your railings come out.  I was thinking of soldering the cross pieces, I'm can't see trying to emulate the little stanchion pieces with the fittings.

John, do you have a gun black that works on brass? Most of the cold blues I have leave a blotchy finish on brass. Gun blue would probably work better on piano wire but that is harder to work of course.

Pete

I'm not sure Pete, I'll have to try some of the ones I have and see.  Piano wire won't solder all that well, and as you way, is a PITA to work with.  I have seen brass done with blackening, but I'm not sure which product.  Brownells has a product that should work, Brass Black. 

The fallback position is to simply paint the railings if the gun black won't work.

On the replacement railings, Williams says they don't have any parts for these, so I'm stuck with replacement railings.

Fantastic job, John.  Definitely a tight squeeze but you did it quite neatly.  

Aren't you glad WBB put just that little bit more width into that hood than is prototypically correct?

John,

Great thread. I learned a lot reading it. Thanks for posting. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

I am very happy that WBB didn't make it truly prototypical dimensions, because it would have possibly precluded me having cruise control.  The little guy has great low speed control with the CC-Lite, I'm very happy with the performance.

I was inspired by GRJ's thread to try this upgrade.

Apart from lower craftsmanship, my upgrade only differs from GRJ's because I fixed the slightly shorter trackmobile couplers to the stock coupler stub. This allowed me to re-use the original coupler mounts and centering springs.

The sound quality and slow speed running is much better than I expected and my little chap negotiates switches better than many larger engines.

I'd like to thank to GRJ, Williams, ERR and OGR for all this.

No real surprise there.  What the shell has to do with the railings I fail to see, other than a couple of them join to it.  Most of the railing pieces actually connect to the frame, so why not require you to buy that.

Replacing the handrails using phosphor bronze wire instead of piano wire or brass would make more sense.  Easier to bend than piano wire, holds its shape better than brass wire and solders very well.  Tichy Train Group is one source.

I am no familiar with phosphor bronze and what it's color is.  I made some replacement handrails with some brass and although it came out well IMO the color didn't look good to me.  I wonder what actual handrails were made from.

Thanks,

Ed

I figure I'll have to paint the railings anyway, so the color isn't all that important.