Williams Engine upgrade PS2

Sure can!  I recently upgraded a A-A F3 pair to PS/2 with the upgrade kit.

John;  If you did the upgrade yourself, where did you get the components?

 

Thanks,   Wally

I have upgraded my Williams Shark, using the standard PS2 diesel upgrade kit which I got through MTHRRC (the MTH club).  I would note that I got a 3-pole microminiature connector, which I used to connect the loco's 2 units.  Then instead of installing the MTH coupler on the rear of the first unit, I instralled it and the backup headlight on the nose of the rear unit.

With regards to up grading a Williams engine to PS-2, be careful
if you intend to create a lashup with
2 Williams engines together.  If you're going to up grade an ABA, the Williams engine lead A is the only powered unit.  However, if you're going to up grade the 2nd A
unit to power also, you must insure the can motors are compatible. Williams has been using flywheel can motors for over 20 years. Each
contract for more can motors most
often does not turn the same speed as the the Williams unit you
want to lash up.  The part number on the can motor means nothing in
finding a match, unless you happened to buy 2 new engines with the same road name at the same time.  You can find out if they're compatible by counting the
number of revolutions the flywheel
turns to make the driving wheel to
turn one revolution.  Some take 5 1/2 turns, 8 turns, 8 1/2 turns or 8 3/4 turns.  After you find can motors that match your current engine's can motors, install and then run one ahead of the other by
about 4 feet.  If they stay the same
distance apart, you're reasonably
sure that converting the second engine to P-2, will allow a lash up.
After converting re-test for matching speed again.  I've got at
least 12, GP-9 Williams engines and not one runs the same speed as any other.  You may have to buy 2 upgrade kits at the same time to get the match you need,  for a lash up

Moke Mike

Wow, thanks guys, now all I have to do is get the upgrade kit!

For a single unit, the upgrade kit has all you need for the upgrade.  For an A-A or an A-B-A, I buy the MTH straight tether to provide directional lighting and electrocouplers on the trailing unit.  As mentioned, if you join the MTH RR club as a basic member for $25, you get $30 of the going price of the kits.  Once you get past one kit, you're $30 ahead each kit you buy!

If the training unit is not powered, you don't need an MTH tether.  I used, as noted above, a 3-wire micro connector to get the MTH coupler & rear headlight.

A link for the micro connectors would be useful here.

http://www.miniatronics.com

 

See also: http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UT...f=pd_sl_2mtqlowma5_e

 

Google "Miniatronics" for more sources.

 

 Spotted them in a hobby shop (now out of business--Grandad's in Fairfax VA) years ago for $9.98 per set. Price is now higher.

 

They are by Miniatronics Corp in Deer Park NY.  1 amp max, which powers couplers and rear light with no problem.  Available in 2, 3, & 4 connectors.  The 4-connector plug & socket are 1/4" across; the 2-condiuctor is 1/8".

I can get the straight MTH 10 pin pair for $18, I prefer that as it allows me a lot of flexibility in what I do in the dummy units.

In your earlier post you only spoke of seeking directional lighting and coupler control.  That only requires 3 conductors of very fine wire.  Of course if you want more conductors between the units you need more wire & if you want more amapcity you need heavier wire.  That's a given.

 

When I upgraded a Weaver brass 0-6-0 to PS2, I used a diesel kit (to get 2 couplers) and two of the Miniatronics sets betwen loco & tender. 

One of the things I do when I have an A-A configuration is double-up the pickups to avoid dead spots on switches.  I put a 3A PTC between them to avoid shorts taking out the wire as well.  That requires two more wires as I like to bring a common frame ground as well as the hot wire.  I also need the heavier wire for that task.

That is a good thing to do.  I did it 50+ years ago with my Lionel steamers, not so much as to improve pickup, which it did, but to keep the tender rollers clean.  When only conducting current for the whistle, they would dirty-up fast. [Note the Miniatronics electronic track cleaning car, which passes a 200+ voltage between the rails when operating.]

 

A disadvantage is that the hots of 2 blocks are connected together for a longer period, enhancing the possibility of a low voltage short if not the same voltage &, if voltages dissimilar, causing conventional locos to jump.

The block issue is one reason for the PTC, which limits the current.  I've tested it by deliberately with widely different voltages on the blocks with no ill effects.  Also, since I'm upgrading for command operation, I don't expect to see radical differences between blocks, however I like the protection for that reason and for my primary reason, derailments where one center roller ends up on the outside rails.   This is the same reason I put them in passenger cars with two pickups.