Wiring Fastrack Help

I can think of a few possibilities for the short circuit you're describing.

1) Maybe black and red wires are not consistently hooked up to outer rails and middle rail (reversed somewhere?).

2) Or If I understand what you're saying, you have a 14v power supply connected to the Aux in on the switches and presumably removed the jumpers.  To do this successfully, both power sources [(ZW/Powermaseter) & 14V Supply] need to be phased with each other.  The switch terminals labelled "GND" are common to the outside rails of the switch.

3) Also, you may have one or more switches with Power Terminals that were internally mis-wired at the factory.  This was fairly common with some O36 switches in recent years.

_________________________________________________

First question is do you have a multi-meter?

Second question is does the short happen if only one drop is connected to the Powermaster (+ and -).

Third, does the short still happen if you disconnect the 14V power source with only one drop connected to the Powermaster?

@Tman129 posted:

This is my first layout, it isn't very large, approximately 9-1/2 foot x 12 foot 'U' shape, but I was hoping to minimize Fastrack connectivity issues with frequent power drops to an under Base power Buss, with a new drop every time I cross a Fastrack switch (with a dedicated 14v power supply).

In working on my first two drops, testing each drop individually works well (using Cab1L/Base1L and the larger Power Master with a PW-ZW that has a 10amp external fuse), testing shows consistent voltage across the two drops. When I connect both '+' and both common to my temporary power leads, the red light on the Power Master comes on, blinking then solid, I get no voltage reading. If I connect both '+' and use only one common I get the same results.

I understood I could run an under Base Buss and tap into it where ever I wanted. Do I need to create Block sections?

The photo 1 shows the two 036 turns I was try to have each have their own power drop, there's an 036 switch on the left side of the photo and a wye above the bridges on the right side.  Photo 2 shows the wiring drops under the Base.

I have run the mockup layout with only one power connection. I've also now connected each section with a soldered wire on the center rail, except at the switches. Am I overthinking this?  Should I use on the one power supply for a layout this size?

Thank you in advance, you experience is appreciated. - Tony

Also when wiring the buss I use 14 speaker wire clear. One conductor is silver or white stripe other is copper. For the drops I use 16 or 18 same type of wire. Always copper to center rail. Also when first wiring up I try each section I hook up to check for any issues. This way you do not get to far with any hidden issues/short/dead spots.

So far is sounds like I should be able to do what I wanted, I just need to find where the issue is.

Steve - #1 I will need to verify when all else fails, as I've started screwing down the bonded sections and am not looking forward to this.   #2 - the PW ZW has four hot and common posts, the commons are all in phase. The switches power drops are not connected at this time, and the jumpers were removed. #3 - The command switches were working fine with my test layout, but I have verified the internal wiring.

ThatGuy - where I'm at is testing the first two drops before I get too far down the rabbit hole. My drops are 18g and I'm using 18g leads with alligator clips. when I get this problem solved, I will be running  a clear speaker wire buss.

Today's project:    My next step is to connect to one drop, and connect the two center and common rails of the two different drops with alligator clip leads. Whether the problem continues or not, I'll need to pull the track and check the my two drops are are not reversed (per Steve #1).

Thanks again

One reason I asked if you have a meter is so that you don't have to pull up track unnecessarily.  You can use the meter to check which wires are connected to which rails with track in place.  This is known as a continuity check, typically using the Ω setting on the meter.  If you don't have a meter there are other methods too.

If you're only using your ZW for all your power sources, then yes, there's no phasing required.

Regarding the switches, and internal wiring, the internal mis-wiring typically only becomes evident when the switch rails are getting track power from adjacent track and the Aux Power connections are used simultaneously.  In other words they work when getting power from adjacent track connections, but not when supplied by Aux power, because the connections are swapped inside the switch.

Here's a link to more on that issue Fastrack Switch Wiring - track jumper works but aux connection doesn't?

This being said, first double checking the power drops for correct connections to the regular track with a meter is IMO necessary and much easier than opening up the switch and swapping it's internal power terminal orientation.

I test with the Ω setting.  Found it!  The color coding on the outside loop is reversed  UGH.

THANK YOU Steve and all!

@Tman129 posted:

I test with the Ω setting.  Found it!  The color coding on the outside loop is reversed  UGH.

THANK YOU Steve and all!

Glad you found the short.