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My grandfather taught me a process that all but eliminates broken tabs. Use a soldering iron (60 watt min.) to heat each tab while you straighten. Work slowly a little at a time. Remember, Do not straighten tabs completely. Straighten just enough to separate the pieces. Remember, do not rush. If you do, tabs will break.

 

I recommend using the thinnest blade possible under the tab to start. Then use a pair of jewelers blunt-tipped needle nose pliers. During the assembly process reverse the procedure , Do not re-bend tabs. Put a gradual twist on each.

 

I've been using this procedure over sixty-years. It works every time, if you remember to work slowly. 

Originally Posted by Steamer:

when I reassemble, I don't bend, or twist all the tabs. usually half will hold things together, but remember doing this if the car/engine(especially an engine) is heavy.

Exactly right.  And you don't need that much of a twist, either - certainly not ninety degrees.

 

Happy Pappy:  The heat doesn't discolor the tabs?

Originally Posted by TrainsRMe:
Originally Posted by Steamer:

when I reassemble, I don't bend, or twist all the tabs. usually half will hold things together, but remember doing this if the car/engine(especially an engine) is heavy.

Exactly right.  And you don't need that much of a twist, either - certainly not ninety degrees.

 

Happy Pappy:  The heat doesn't discolor the tabs?

The heat from a 60 watt soldering iron/pencil applied briefly then re-applied does not discolor enough to notice. You want to just warm up the metal not super heat it. This is the reason one should not use a high powered soldering gun. Most tabs are out of sight to begin with.

 

I never twist tabs beyond one quarter turn. Your recommendations are good, also. 

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