WSR-1 whistle relay

See this thread about a solid-state DIY alternatives.

https://ogrforum.com/...y-only-respond-to-dc

Otherwise, for the genuine article, search eBay for "WSR-1".  At any given time you will find a handful available for $25-$50 or so - pre-owned, re-furbished.

That works, what's all involved with refurbishing one? It's probably beyond my scope but it doesn't hurt to ask

There is one screw in the front that holds on the fixed contact, terminal strips, and movable contact retainer. Make a sketch of how it all goes together, then remove that screw and take all the parts off.  This will allow you to get to both contacts to polish them. They are silver so do not be to aggressive. You can use solder wick to take off excess solder and old wires from contact strips to get ready solder new wires back on. This also exposes the bottom side of pole piece.  If you are thinking about putting a thin piece of tape on the pole piece to reduce the chance of the relay not opening, this the time to do it.   Also a good time to clean the hinge up as best as you can. The hinge is a place where poor contact can prevent the whistle from blowing.   Now reassemble everything as you found it.  Make sure the bosses on the fiber insulators get into the proper holes in the metal parts.  Be really careful with the coil wires. If ones breaks off, it might be hard to fix.  With two or three C or D cells in series, the whistle relay should operate . Use a meter or light bulb to check continuity through the hinge and contact when the relay closes. 

There are several different types of whistle relay. One with spring on back is for GG1.  There are relays with different numbers of contact strips and insulators  on front. If relay attaches to a plastic whistle you need extra contact strip as ground is not brought into the relay with the mounting screw. It needs a ground wire, thus the extra contact strip. 

It is all easily done, just takes a little time. Try to avoid relays with rust on them.  

Take your pick. All serviced ready to install. $20.00 each plus shipping.

David Johnston posted:

There is one screw in the front that holds on the fixed contact, terminal strips, and movable contact retainer. Make a sketch of how it all goes together, then remove that screw and take all the parts off.  This will allow you to get to both contacts to polish them. They are silver so do not be to aggressive. You can use solder wick to take off excess solder and old wires from contact strips to get ready solder new wires back on. This also exposes the bottom side of pole piece.  If you are thinking about putting a thin piece of tape on the pole piece to reduce the chance of the relay not opening, this the time to do it.   Also a good time to clean the hinge up as best as you can. The hinge is a place where poor contact can prevent the whistle from blowing.   Now reassemble everything as you found it.  Make sure the bosses on the fiber insulators get into the proper holes in the metal parts.  Be really careful with the coil wires. If ones breaks off, it might be hard to fix.  With two or three C or D cells in series, the whistle relay should operate . Use a meter or light bulb to check continuity through the hinge and contact when the relay closes. 

There are several different types of whistle relay. One with spring on back is for GG1.  There are relays with different numbers of contact strips and insulators  on front. If relay attaches to a plastic whistle you need extra contact strip as ground is not brought into the relay with the mounting screw. It needs a ground wire, thus the extra contact strip. 

It is all easily done, just takes a little time. Try to avoid relays with rust on them.  

Ok thanks for info,  that doesn't sound too intense. What would I use to clean/polish the contacts? Which piece is the pole piece? I believe I know the answer but am still curious. Also what kind of tape would be used?

thanks

stew1957 posted:

Take your pick. All serviced ready to install. $20.00 each plus shipping.

I might have to take you up on that. It probably won't be till after the holidays though

What I use to clean, dress, contacts depends on their condition.  I have abrasive paper on the bench from 220 to 2500 grit.  If contact is pitted I might start with a fine file. On the tape, for a thin layer I use the Scotch matte finish magic tape. Some repairmen use electrical tape. 

I see also, am I correct in understanding that the pole piece is the underside of the coil where the armature plate would come up and make contact?

Yes.  The pole piece is the steel part that the coil of wire magnetizes to attract the armature with the contact on it.   

Ok thank you very much for all the replies

I have some rather new ones that were removed because the layout was powered by DC at the time,  $30 shipped...

Marty

Martin Derouin posted:

I have some rather new ones that were removed because the layout was powered by DC at the time,  $30 shipped...

Marty

Ok sounds good. I'm not doing anything repair wise on PW stuff till after the holidays. Might take you up on it then. Meantime gonna enjoy some modern MTH stuff and family