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I had the pesky problem of a blank wall around the corner from a row of building flats:

  

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I solved that problem by taking a photo of the last building, printing it full size, and pasting it on the blank wall.

  

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 The building is mounted to Gatorfoam, and I added some relief by adding a second photo on top with the windows and doors cut out. I mounted the second photo on thin chipboard.

 

 

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fabulous solution, john. and i can't tell the difference even when i blow up the photo. definitely a technique to keep in mind. and, yes, where is that light switch anyway? and what should i be looking at when you say you added a second photo on top with the windows and doors cut out. i'm confused by that reference. 

 

thanks. 

jerrman

Thanks everyone for the comments.  This turned out to fairly easy, and one of my few endeavors that came out better than expected.  The most time consuming part was moving the light switch.  Nothing magic there, just cut a new hole in the wall board, attach the junction box, and string the wires to it.

 

Jerrman. I should have been clearer in my post. The flat is made of two identical photos, one on top of the other. The lower layer is mounted on 3/16" gatorboard.  The upper layer is mounted on chipboard, but I cut out the window and door openings.  This gives a subtle 3D relief to the structure. 

 

You can probably tell that I used Photoshop to modify the side panel before going to a professional shop to have it printed.  I added more doors along the dock, I got rid of the fire alarms and fire escape, and I took out the sign and center two vertical sections.

 

Now that I know this works, I may try to make some background buildings the same way. The advantage of this in addition to its ease, is that your background buildings will have the same "feel" as your foreground ones.

Last edited by John Sethian

The first rule is to shoot the structure square on with a good lens. Second is to shoot in camera raw. Photoshop now has a lens correction feature built into their raw file handling utility, Adobe Bridge. You select your lens in a drop down menu and it automatically corrects for the inherent lens distortion.

 
Originally Posted by DennisB:

The first rule is to shoot the structure square on with a good lens. Second is to shoot in camera raw. Photoshop now has a lens correction feature built into their raw file handling utility, Adobe Bridge. You select your lens in a drop down menu and it automatically corrects for the inherent lens distortion.

 

I'm not so good with photography and only have a Fuji P&S (no DSLR) camera. No Photoshop either. Good to know how it was done. The shooting square part I am going to try and work on though, guess I will have to eventually get a tripod.

 

Thanks for explaining,

Tom 

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