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Looking for suggestions with regard to modeling water.

juniata guyjuniata guyOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
I've added a river to my layout and have been detailing the bottom and banks for the past month or so and am now ready to pour some "water". In the past, I have always used Realistic Water. This product is as simple to use as opening the bottle and pouring. Allow each layer to dry for about a week and add additional layers as desired.

It's been a few years since I last added any water areas to my layout and, when I priced Realistic Water two weeks ago, I got sticker shock. The last time I used any of this product a bottle cost around 11 or 12 bucks and now its close to $23. Given the length and width of the area where I need to add water combined with the depth I would like to have, I'm probably looking at nearly 6 bills if I use this stuff again.

Has anyone ever worked with any of the epoxy products and found any they would recommend based on ease of use and cost? Also appreciated would be any comments regarding surface shrinkage as a particular product sets, discoloration and so on.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Curt
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wsdimennawsdimennaOGR Forum Member
Prefer Magic Water for resin pours. Its odorless so it works well in confined areas and basement. Use same technique.

its costs about 25% more then envirotek. One main advantage though is tends to be a bit less brittle and takes temperature and moving around well. Also there are no air bubbles to worry about. Surface Cleans with damp paper towel once dry.
Bill D
Last edited by wsdimenna
Patrick HPatrick HOGR Forum Member
I can only vouch for envirotek, 50 /50 mix. Get a gallon for around 100bucks. Can probubly do everything you need. They only thing i havnt been able to find
is what to clean it with. Right now i just use a real horse hair brush to get the dust off not to scratch it.

The last two lakes I did i put down Marlite in the shape of the lake,smooth side up, then put a tiny bead of silicon around the perimeter,this way if the lake base isnt perfectly level the bead will hold all the epoxy in the lake.You can add rocks docks etc before you pour. works out real nice.




If you care for this color,I spray it with Rustoleum:American classics Oregano then if you want more depth, mist it with some black.





This particular one i didnt use the bead trick and had a tiny bit of leakage through the tape because the epoxy will find its level overnight but no big deal.
juniata guyjuniata guyOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
Thanks Patrick and Bill!

Patrick, I tend to go with a natural river or lake bed and no color added to the "water" itself. The river I am working on now has a bottom made from shale I brought back from Pennsylvania in July along with some sifted dirt, Woodland Scenics weeds and grasses and dead tree/brush piles made from dried sedum. Before I started any of the river bed detailing, I sealed all of the joints between the bottom and sides of my river channel with caulk and tested it with real water.

Curt
Ingeniero No1Ingeniero No1OGR Forum Member
Curt,

I have also used EnviroTex twice and like the results. I painted the bottom of the 'lake' and just poured on the EnviroTex mix. I find it easy to work with.

Here is a small lake (the next one will be four times the size)



The bottom actually is mostly green and brown, and only the outer edge is bluish. I found that the darker colors tend to reflect the surroundings better, which is what I wanted in this scene.


Good luck!

Alex
juniata guyjuniata guyOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
Thanks guys! I very much appreciate the suggestions and particularly the photos you have included. I only hope mine looks half as good as what y'all have done.

Rick, couldn't talk you into coming back down and helping, could I? Wink
We were planning on being back up your way for Thanksgiving, but had to cancel as the two older boys have to work "Black Friday".

Curt
Ranger RickRanger RickOGR Forum Member
Curt, anytime you are back this way, please call. I was told that the Holiday Duke Energy layout will be displayed at the Union Terminal along with the other Holiday layouts at the Cincinnati Museum of Natural History.

I will be eager to see pictures of your new layout. Tell Max to send me pictures of the Pilgrimage too. Happy Holidays.

Rick
CM Chuck M.OGR Forum Member
Curt:

If you have a Michaels near you, go to their web page and print out a few 50% off coupons. A $32.00 box of Envirotex will be half price with each coupon. The 50% off coupons are good all this week for a single purchase only but you can return to the store that same day with another coupon or the next day and stock up on the product.

Chuck
MoonsonMoonsonOGR Forum Member
I had never heard of using shower glass doors before seeing its spectacular use/results among this thread. The work is fabulous. I have learned something new.

For streams, ponds, city's edge effluence, swamps, water tower leaks, and creeks, I have used Jim Elster's (Scenic Express) Envirotex resin, along w/ the Blue, Green, & Amber dyes available through him. However, before applying those products, I have painted the under-surface w/ flat acrylic (tube) paints.

Here are some of the results, for your inspection:














Frank
Last edited by Moonson
JerrmanJerrmanOGR Forum Member
Superb water effects, Frank. I especially like the 2nd-4th photos under the bridge which depict the grassy, mossy, almost filmy-like effect of standing water, very common in the south, but probably exists other places as well (the kind you wouldn't want to put your hand in). Pictures worth saving for inspiration on future projects.

Jerrman
WITZ 41WITZ 41OGR Forum Member
Ok, I'll bite. Shower door glass idea looks great! I learned something new. You really have me thinking now because I haven't started the water section of my layout.

I'm sure it comes down to whatever hammered/wavy glass pattern think looks good but I have three quick questions for those experienced as I consider it:

1. Which is better: completely clear or opaque

2. If the glass has a smooth and a hammered side - which side do you put facing up?

3. Do you paint the undersurface of the glass facing down or do you paint the wood/table surface that the glass is resting on?

Thank you!
pennsyfanpennsyfanOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
Originally Posted by DMASSO:
Here is my contribution. Also using DennisB's method.

Don,

Is that a Lionel tug? Did you cut out the glass to get the tug to the proper level?

I am installing a river on a dropaway table part of my layout. Which will weigh less the shower glass or the resin. Does the shower door always give you a placid look? I remember seeing that you can create chop in resin with a hair dryer. My area will be about 2' X 5'.

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