Clever Models or Cardstock Buildings--anyone used them?

There have been several posts concerning use of these suppliers. Try the search or find feature. Dave G.

Just bought a whole bunch from them  I am using the flats for the back of my layout and I  picked up the mobile homes.  There were two freebies on the site.

Here are a couple I've done.

The green trimmed depot I use as a whistle stop. It is built staight up, no alterations. The clapboard shed on the other side has been modified quite a bit. Overall, I am very pleased with these and plan to build more.

The one thing I will tell you is get a GOOD printer, as in one that will reliably handle heavy cardstock.  You will have to ask at the store, and are likely to get a blank stare, unless you get someone who knows to check the printer brand's database. I use 110 pound paper, which will hopelessly jam in most of the cheap printers in the market. You want one with good paper feed rollers. BTDT.

Chris

LVHR

Thanks for the replies. 

Lehighline....those turned out nice.  How long did it take you from start to finish?

I started this one tonight and I am doing it a bit different.  I printed on paper and used spray adhesive to attach to foam core.  I have some heavy black poster board I used behind the door areas on the ground level.  I will work on the windows at a later time.  I am thinking of printing the windows on vellum so when I add lights it's less work.

Here are a few more pictures.  The second structure is going together easier after working on the first one last night.  They take some time, but the time will be less that a Cornerstone, DPM or City Classics type kit.  I think for a background these will work out pretty nice.

TMack: They look pretty good.  How long has it taken you so far?

The shorter double pitched roof kit so far maybe an hour.  The other kit longer, but it is more adjusting my workflow.

What I am doing is printing out on regular paper and then laminating it on Foam core with 3m spray adhesive.  Last night I cut the windows from the paper first and then cut the windows from the foam core so that takes twice the time.  This morning I laminated the fronts then cut out the doors and windows.  I am using hot glue to attach the sides and roof.  

I think these will go faster than a typical kit, and work fine in the background, but if it is up front I'd rather have a kit or my Lionelville buildings.  I bought an 8 pack of Lionelville buildings form Gryzboski's last year. Shipped to California form Penn was $230 total.  What is great about that is that I had an instant city and now I just work on the detailing each year to customize them for my use.

These cardstock kits are very inexpensive and I am enjoying experimenting.  Iam adding interior lighting and probably some exterior.

With a tight building budget, I started out with nothing but foam core buildings on my layout. Here are a few older shots showing nothing but photoshopped images mounted on foam core. In person and up close they definitely look "flatter" than actual buildings, but from a few feet away they look pretty good.

Here is building #3 in the beginning stages.  This is 15 inches wide and 11 inches at it's highest point.  It printed in 4 separate panels.  I have them on Foam core at this point.  You will notice I left the sides attached, Once I glue the foam core backing on the sides I can just fold that over and the corner is much nicer this way.

I plan to cut the big window section out and will make a new insert out of Cardstock and I will print the glazing pattern on Vellum so I can put lights inside.  Both loading doors, the vent and regular door will all be recessed.  This flat can be detailed quite a bit.

ddurling,

Those look great.  Thanks for posting.

-Ted

Here is an update on my American Steele Pipe building.  I will work on the glazing on all three buildings later this week and probably a few extra exterior details.  I have LEDs on order.

Those card stock buildings look pretty darned good. I read a lot of British model railroad magazines, and card stock structures are a major scenery staple over there.

Here are some links to my friends website with some pictures of some of the Clever kits and parts I've used.  I highly recomend them.  They are very easy to modify, and if you take your time, can become very high quality models.  The best part... you can print more if you don't like your first (or 2nd, 3rd, 4th...)try!

http://www.aorailroad.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=130

http://www.aorailroad.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=173&sid=78b523041519a30b1663b0d7f567ddeb

Enjoy!  I did!

Rick Bacon

Windsor, CO

I am not handy at doing these kits.   I downloaded and printed the 2 free kits on their website.   I built the wood yardshed.  I am building the 2 crossing towers.  The website has instructions on how to build kits and specific instructions on the crossing towers.    I am not following all instructions given, but have done some things to the roofs.  Now I am ready to start the stairs.   Photos of progress follow.

Bob,  Looking good, if you want to disguise the flatness,  then print extra sheets and cut out the windows, doors and trim and layer them on the exterior, it really makes a big difference.  

I took the windows and door out of mine and recessed them.  I will cut out the window and door trim and glue that to the exterior at some point to ad even more depth.

What I am doing different on my own is that I am going to light the interiors with LEDs.  I hope to pick up some translucent Velum and will print a set of windows from the kit on the vellum that I can then install in the buildings.  

The links that rick posted shows his layering technique and it looks really good. 

This was a free download. I will be purchasing a couple of them now. This one took me about 2.5 hours. I think that time will get better after the learning curve on this one.

Malcolm

T-Mack,  Yes I know doing that will add more depth but my first try and I amtrying to get the feel of doing this before tackling intricate steps.  Thanks for your info.

Everybody---you are blowing me away with your efforts and guidance. 

I don't know if I have the patience to do them but I may give it a shot.

This forum is an amazing resource.  Thank you.

Santa Fe, try it you'll like it!!   LOL   Anyway I am not a patient person, however I am glad I am trying the free kits.  I am learning as I go.  Making mistakes, but I downloaded kits and Instructions to my computer, so all it is costing is 8 cents per page, ink glue etc.  Onward and upward I go!!!

For other basic free card stock buildings, check out:

http://www.state.il.us/hpa/ps/...truct_mainstreet.htm

I am busy cutting, glueing etc.   but I hit a snag.  I do not know where the piece outlined in red goes on the models.   HELP  please.

Bob, that is the roof trim or Facia Board.  If you look at the picture below the piece you are cutting is the Bargeboard and Fascia as one piece.  

I've been working on cardstock building designs for my layout. I draw them out on the computer using MS Word and Paint. I print them out and glue them to foamcore.

Some of what people call "cardstock" are made of thick materials and one can arrange a bit of dimension in wall thickness, window stand off to be a bit recessing, doors etc., etc.  My experience is that these don't look quite as good as kits (bashed or otherwise) and take about as much time to build.  It don't use them but I suppose if you work at it, it could both look good and be a lot of fun as well as smething you would become very good at doing.

   True card-stock -which I think of as flat printed, thick paper - seems to be quick to build and good enough if you have enough distance back from the viewer that you cannot see the lack of dimension (the windows aren't recessed a tiny bit, etc.).  I use them on my layout more than four feet from the viewer.  I promise myself that eventually I will replace them with "real" models, but frankly, if you can't tell, why bother?

I have quite a few cardstock buildings on the layout. They are particularly useful as backdrop flats.

I find them pleasing and relaxing to build.

The challenge with these buildings is blending them with other structures. There is no way to age them or change their color tone. Depending on your style in aging buildings, they can look a little like a photograph dropped in among your buildings.

In general, if you tend towards a hazy look to your coloration, misting with white paint or using soft chalks (like many of the best modelers) I find the printed buildings work better. I'm usually not that good, so I have to place the cardstock buildings carefully.

Here are some examples...

I emailed the maker of the tower, Clever Models and received this reply:

Hi Bob.  From time to time, you will discover some things that we have added here and there that aren't necessarily part of the basic kit.  We provide them for your use if you want something a little different.  If you fold that piece into a box and then add that roof piece you mentioned, you have a nifty little awning for over a door, or wherever. Cordially, Dave Miecznikowski Clever models LLC

very cool, but I need specific instructions as I am a beginner.

Hiram,  That was my thought too.  Use them for the backdrop.  I am not sure if I want them up close, but then again I have enough regular structures that I wont need any Cardstock structures up front

Update on the Widow Install on the Steel Pipe Plant.  I picked up 29lb Vellum from Staples and printed out the window section.  It works perfectly.  I plan to install 4 LEDs.

Lining it up with the precut cardstock window frame was simple.  I used 3m spray adhesive on the back of the cardstock window frame to adhere the velum on the structure.

Even with the printing, the light shines through the translucent Velum.

TMack, That "American Steel Pipe" facade is really exceptional. Very handsome. I am amazed at the materials, too.

Frank

The vellum windows with the lights looks absolutely incredible! Very nice job.

Thank you for the compliments everyone. 

Tihs is all done with vellum for inkjet.  Laser toner will not work.  The reason is that the toner from the laser is fused to the vellum with heat and the toner will block light from passing through, where as the inkjet ink is not strong enough to block the translucent properties of the vellum.  The vellum is a very dull matte finish so hitting it with dull coat is probably not needed.

For that royal imports building, I am printing the window frames on the vellum before I install the windows on that building, it probably will not be as dramatic as this Steel pipe building, but I want my flats to light up with the rest of the city.  My kids really like running the trains with the whole city lit up.

Ted

You need one of those flashing welder circuits to add to the lighting circuit in that killer steel mill! Great job and great thread everyone!  Love it.  Russ

I used Transparency Film for Ink Jet printing to make the window insert for this Plasticville gas station.  It isn't as foggy as vellum so if you wanted interior detail to be visable it would be.

Cheryl

Photos of my first crossing tower.  Perhaps building is very old,

Dilapidated and not used anymore.  But my first try onward and upward I go.  Another crossing tower to build.

Another Update.  Lighting installed.  I put 3 LED lights in, wired in parallel.  I took black cardboard,  laminated a piece of white for the inside so the light would be better reflected inside.

Anyone familiar with or have experience using Evan Designs' Model Train software? They claim their Model Builder can create cardstock buildings that are scaleable and customizable. Their Advertiser, Brickyard, Grafitti, Window Designer, Stained Glass Window maker and Sign Creator all look promising if they perform as advertised. Anyone with on-hands experience using any of them? What are your thoughts, comments, tips and advice?

Instead of running out and buying a "better" printer, I suggest you to to FedEx Office (formerly Kinkos) and get them to print the buildings.

Yes, It costs $1.50 a page, but you don't need to buy paper, or ink.

Also you do not waste anything setting up the printer.

Also On some of the Clever Models buildings, You can use Grandt Line or Tichy widows and doors.