0-6-0 Weaver Gold Brass Engine Needs to have a new tire installed, but how?

Looks like a press fit on the eccentric. You may just have to pry it off with the tip of a screwdriver.

Good luck.

The eccentric cranks are soldered in place. You will need to unsolder them to get the valve gear apart to change the tires.

Yes, Ryan is correct. The eccentrics are indeed soldered in place. Easiest solution is to desolder them, however, you’re still not out of the woods yet. Here’s the step by step:

1.take a picture of the rod and eccentric orientation. Familiarize yourself with the parts involved.  
2. desolder the face of the eccentric. Use soldering wick, or solder suction tool to remove as much solder as possible, then use tweezers to gently pull up on eccentric while keeping heat on it from the iron.
3. slide main rod off crank pin and position out of your way gently! A piece of masking tape holding the rod out of the way will keep it from falling off its guide.
4. Remove middle driver rod bolt. You’ll need to remove this bolt so you can slide the side rod up and over the crank pin. I believe the last one of these I did, the side rods are multi piece. If not, and the side rods are one piece, you’ll need to remove all the side rod bolts and physically remove the side rod altogether.
5. Now replace your tire!
6. Reverse order of removal.
7. trick to re-soldering the eccentric: hold eccentric with tweezers on the crank pin in the exact orientation from your pics. When you heat the eccentric, you’ll see it wants to fall on the pin. Verify it’s nice and straight, and then add a tiny dot of fresh solder to make a nice clean face over the eccentric. Road test, job done

Pat

WOW!  I can see why many folks leave this type on a shelf. This was from an auction of a collector. I am an operator. I just got word recently that I am likely to  have to relocate. This is a project I may have to let wait until after the moving issue is settled. Thanks Harmonyards for a very detailed plan of action!

Note to self: Don't buy the Weaver 0-6-0!

Oh wow!  In 20 years of repairs I haven't seen one of these and I hope I don't.

What were they thinking??

Jim

@Jim Sandman posted:

What were they thinking??

Shelf Queen!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Note to self: Don't buy the Weaver 0-6-0!

Or if you do, send it directly to Pat......

It appears we give them too much credit when we ask "What were they thinking". It appears they were not thinking.  I am giving some serious thought to creating a tire in place with some silicone sealant.

Fellas, I wrote out the service procedure in vivid detail for anyone that’s never tackled this job to have a clear path on the steps,….in all actuality, it’s about 10 minutes per side to swap out the tires,….many Weaver, Williams, & 3rd Rail brass locomotives are built like this……the only tools required are tweezers, a nut driver, soldering iron & something to slip tires on & off,….for techs at shops, add an extra .5 HR to the service bill above what you normally charge to swap out tires……..it’s a very simple procedure, just add a little more time…..and please don’t use silicone sealant or bull frog snot, or whatever,….that just makes a mess,…..IMO, you’ll spend 2 hours  trying to get out of a 30 minute job…..

Pat

I did one of these once for a customer over a decade ago. I recall spending a l ot of time figuring out how to do it and plenty of exploratory disassembly and reassembly to get it right. After that job, it went on the “Nope” list. Couldn’t charge enough to cover the labor involved

One of many reasons why traction tires are not..."popular".

Mark in Oregon

If one is shot the other is not far behind.

Try running without the traction tires and see how it behaves for you.

Do not unsolder.  I have some and you unscrew the rods using the eccentric rod.  On mine, they just soldered that rod to the screw holding everything together.  Once unscrewed, it is easy to replace the tire.

Many HO engines do the same thing.

@Soo Line posted:

If one is shot the other is not far behind.

Try running without the traction tires and see how it behaves for you.

I did. Does not do well up the hill on my layout. Even engines not designed for traction tires do not do well going uphill. Since I have Gargraves track, even magnetraction engines do not do well.  So I either throw out the layout or improve traction.

One more step to consider. At least loosen the screw holding the brake shoe on and swing it out of the way. If its still in the way remove the shoe. Not a big deal to take on and off.

This actually applies to any engine when changing tires.

Pete

I wonder why 3 rail needs a traction tire, when 2 rail does not?

@Norton posted:

One more step to consider. At least loosen the screw holding the brake shoe on and swing it out of the way. If its still in the way remove the shoe. Not a big deal to take on and off.

This actually applies to any engine when changing tires.

Pete

This is a tactic I normally apply. If I remember correctly with this engine, at the minimum it has tires on the rear drivers which means taking the eccentric and all valve gear off to get the tire on the wheel. I think it also has tires on the front set of drivers which is common on many brass models. Access to the front is a pain due to the cross head, guides, and rods. I can’t remember if there was access to get the screw off without taking everything else apart.

@C&O Allan posted:

Do not unsolder.  I have some and you unscrew the rods using the eccentric rod.  On mine, they just soldered that rod to the screw holding everything together.  Once unscrewed, it is easy to replace the tire.

Many HO engines do the same thing.

This seems right from some old memory....the Williams brass Niagara has a similar soldered arrangement on its eccentric, though I have never had to do one. Samhongsa built both locos, and they certainly built good stuff.

@C&O Allan posted:

Do not unsolder.  I have some and you unscrew the rods using the eccentric rod.  On mine, they just soldered that rod to the screw holding everything together.  Once unscrewed, it is easy to replace the tire.

Many HO engines do the same thing.

I’ve seen this practice on HO, but never on a Weaver or Williams, or 3rd Rail, the crank pin that holds the the eccentric is pressed fit to the driver…..the eccentric sits on a squared sectioned end to facilitate eccentric timing…..here’s a Weaver crank pin from a 2-8-0 brass engine …..it has no threads, if someone goes and tries to spin it, it’s gonna get knocked out of timing, and then it’ll be a real mess…..simple as pie to desolder…….it’s literally a 10 minute job per side ….

Pat

Pat - thanks for the clarification

Somebody asked why two rail doesn't need traction tires.  Isn't that because they don't have center spring loaded collectors of three rail locos lifting some of the weight adhesion off the rails?

@colorado hirailer posted:

Somebody asked why two rail doesn't need traction tires.  Isn't that because they don't have center spring loaded collectors of three rail locos lifting some of the weight adhesion off the rails?

No. It is mainly because 2-Rail SCALE does NOT have super sharp curves and wheels with ridiculously large flanges.

@Hot Water posted:

No. It is mainly because 2-Rail SCALE does NOT have super sharp curves and wheels with ridiculously large flanges.

I’ll agree with the curves Jack, but flanges ain’t got a dog in this fight, …….PROPER 2 rail scale locomotives have properly tuned suspension systems with generous weight proportioned in the right places over the drivers. Thus each axle set gets an opportunity to add in tractive effort. Especially on any uneven trackage ……As opposed to the majority of 3 rail models, with captured axles, so not all the wheels make decent contact on the rails, again, especially true on any uneven trackage …..but I do agree, the 3rd rail pickups don’t play any part in reducing traction…..

Pat

If that’s the engine I’m thinking of, couldn’t you drop the rear drivers out and disconnect the rods? Slide the main rod out of the crosshead, unscrew the rear rod at the center driver, and undo the eccentric rod up at the hanger? To do it right, you’d have to take the shell off to rotate the motor to get at things and maybe take off the rear brake hanger. Quite the little puzzle!