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My 036 FastTrack turnout is version that has Comand Control (CC) capability. I wired dedicated with 18ga wire power fine, no problems, switch operates well in CC. See photo

The problem is using the manual switch machine. I've extended the wiring from the switch with 5 color telephone wire, matching the colors of the wiring harness from the manual switch machine (R to R etc...). I'm looking to run the manual control around to the other side of the layout. See photo

Maybe the problem is the gauge of the telephone wires, I'm using 22ga setting on my strippers.

Any help is greatly appreciated

Attachments

Images (2)
  • 20241005_150235: Under switch
  • 20241005_155234: Switch tether to telephone wire.
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@Tman129 posted:

My 036 FastTrack turnout is version that has Comand Control (CC) capability. I wired dedicated with 18ga wire power fine, no problems, switch operates well in CC. See photo

The problem is using the manual switch machine. I've extended the wiring from the switch with 5 color telephone wire, matching the colors of the wiring harness from the manual switch machine (R to R etc...). I'm looking to run the manual control around to the other side of the layout. See photo

Maybe the problem is the gauge of the telephone wires, I'm using 22ga setting on my strippers.

Any help is greatly appreciated

Telephone wire can work fine for the control wire extension.  However, depending on the type of strippers you're using, care must be taken not to nick this small solid wire.  Often if it's nicked and then bent, it will break at the nick.

The problem is not apparent in the pictures.  The Yellow and Black wire connections seem ok since the controller is illuminated.

Are you implying that the manual remote isn't controlling the switch with the extension cable?  Does it throw in only one direction if you first manually move the swivel rails to the opposite position?

Other things to consider:

  1. only strip about 1/4 inch insulation off the end that's inserted into the switch terminals;
  2. make sure the bare wire ends are fully inserted into the terminals, but the insulation should be kept out of the terminal contacts.
  3. maybe the Red and/or Green tel wire(s) broke when you twisted the wire nut on it.

Either way, if the controller isn't operating the turnout with the extension, but worked beforehand, there's likely a bad connection in the extension.

Last edited by SteveH

Yes, the manual remote, while lit, is not controlling the switch. My Legacy remote does control the switch.

I checked, by reattached the telephone wire to the switch - they comply with #2, and remade the connection between the telephone wire and original remote wire, for #3. I opened up the manual controller and checked for continuity between each end of the colored wire, the set screws in the manual remote and the set screws under the switch, passes through the twisted connection.  I have continuity. It did all work beforehand.

UGH

Let me see if I'm correctly understanding your continuity checks on the red and green wires.  With the controller opened, you placed one meter probe on the red wire terminal screw and the other probe on the turnout red terminal screw and saw continuity, essentially checking the entire length of the connections.  Same with the green terminals.  Is this what you mean?

If so, I have one more suggestion to see whether it's the controler that's bad or something in the turnout.  First a brief explanation about how the circuit works.  When the Out circuit is momentarily shorted to Ground, the turnout motor moves the swivel rails so that the train is directed to the side path.  When the Thru terminal is momentarily shorted to ground the turnout's swivel rails sould be set to the straight path.

To test FasTrack Switches without the remote attached, you can take a short jumper wire and touch one end of it to the Ground terminal and the other end to either of the Out or Thru terminals and it should activate, if not already positioned as directed.  If it doesn't work as described, that would indicate an internal fault in the turnout.  If it does work as described, the issue is in the controller (given the wiring has continuity).

Yes re continuity.

Checked the ground/out, and ground/thru on the switch, the switch throws both ways.

Opened up the manual controller.  Followed the same test, ground/out, and ground/thru wires with the controller set screws. Although the controller was litup nothing happened.

Thinking the manual controller is bad, i put one from another switch in play. Same issue.

Took apart the twisted connections and touched the grnd/out then grnd/thru wires, switch throws.

Done for tonight, frustrated! Tomorrow I'll reconnect the original controller to the switch, as it worked before, and we'll see.

Thanks for all your suggestions and support.

@Tman129 posted:

Yes re continuity.

Checked the ground/out, and ground/thru on the switch, the switch throws both ways.

Opened up the manual controller.  Followed the same test, ground/out, and ground/thru wires with the controller set screws. Although the controller was litup nothing happened.

Thinking the manual controller is bad, i put one from another switch in play. Same issue.

Took apart the twisted connections and touched the grnd/out then grnd/thru wires, switch throws.

Done for tonight, frustrated! Tomorrow I'll reconnect the original controller to the switch, as it worked before, and we'll see.

Thanks for all your suggestions and support.

When you say you have continuity, does this mean that when you measure resistance the value on your meter is less than few Ohms?

A possible explanation for what you're describing is not a bad controller but instead either an intermittent connection or high resistance in either the Ground, Out, and/or Thru connection paths.

Since the test jumper touched between the GND and either OUT or THRU activates the turnout at the turnout side but not the controller side of the wiring, that means the issue is probably somewhere in the wiring.  If neither direction activates at the controller end, but the LEDs are on in the controller, that points to a high resistance in the GND circuit.

Last edited by SteveH

I was away for a few days with hurricane Milton.

I put the original manual controller back on the switch, all is working fine now at that switch with an accessory power supply at 14v.

Now I have a wye that is not accepting the alternate power source. Going to reinstall the jumper and be done with it as it was working fine with track power.

The rest of my switches, I have 10 total, I'll try the alternate power, if the switch doesn't l8ght up, the jumper goes back in and I'm done for that switch.

Whenever I redo the layout, it'll be good bye Lionel FastTrack.

SteveH, thanks for your help. See the attached for development.

Attachments

Images (3)
  • 20210501_192655: Initial floor layout, checking size
  • 20221022_123923: Town & station
  • 20221118_130912: Town & station on right, left side hills with ravine & bridges

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