LCRU 2 W/ HARNESS (2 MOTOR-DIESEL-F3) help with repair...

I measure .015uf for that cap, but I'm doing it in circuit.  I'd try a .01uf or .02uf size 0603 cap there, I suspect that will work fine.  I doubt the value is super critical.

Great  so looks like a straight solder is out .... I should have somewhere some other boards i to rob from

if possible any chance you could please tell me what its actually called or I could type in and order  one (or some)  so I can look it up on ebay etc..

thank-you ./...daniel 

Email me your address and I'll stick a couple in an envelope and mail them to you.  Copy the above info I posted so I know what to mail back.   I only have a few hundred of them, so I probably won't miss a couple.

I did tell you what it was called, it's a surface mount capacitor size 0603 with a value of .01uf to .02uf.  I know if have the .01uf caps, I might have .015 or .02 values.

thank-you..........message sent

Lionel sent me a replacement ....free   to replace the one hey sent first.. 

However its not the same must be a newer version and I don't or cant find a wiring schematic to  wire it correctly 

If  someone has a diagram or picture of one I might be able to figure  it out  

part # sent 610 8132 126  LCRU 2W/HARNESS (2 MOTOR-DIESEL)

thank you  ...daniel

Here's a wiring diagram for the original LCRU and the LCRU2, both for a dual-motor diesel.  That should be enough to get the job done.  Note that the LCRU2 has JST-EH connectors instead of push pins, to do the job right you'd need to add the connectors to your wires.

Thank-YOU again! I'll let you know ..how it worked   daniel

The first picture shows the original  NYC Centry Club board,   labeled  L2RU

the second one shows what Lionel sent to replace it labeled  L2ST

Using the wiring diagram the original wiring on the NYC showed it to be wired correct for the new board

but when I did the side lights blinked steady and not able to program if I  used my cab 1 hit eng 1 it would move but forward but no functions

If you look at the board Lionel sent are they compatible ? or maybe not for Cab1 control? or...

If you look closely behind the 4 pin  of the L2RU  it shows a tall rectangular capacitor (?)  with 4 round (capacitors)

and if you look at the bottom one Lionel sent as a replacement it shows a small round capacitor (?) 5 of them

thanks again...daniel

They're both LCRU2 boards.  Forget the label.

To start, the PGM/RUN switch is backwards on the LCRU/LCRU2, closed it RUN, open is PGM.  Make sure you're actually in PGM mode.

Using the instructions below, reprogram your new board.

Instructions To Restore TMCC functions R2LC-LCRU 2.pdf

I was so sure that was it!     I went back and tried the reprogram with  the switch in the run position  and tried to reprogram it.. the lights marker lights blink  but never stopped evan after the reset code .

I evan tired it the other way (the run/program  switch) same results

What happens is on my cab 1 it will run forward only no reverse if! I turn the cab wheel around 20 turns

but will no stop blinking and no reverse  no coupler   no direction  in reverse

what stumps me is the light side markers flashing weather in program mode or run still wondering if the wiring?

or hard to believe a defective board...

signed stumped....daniel

Hard to say without actually having hands on.

I going back tonight and retrace all wires maybe its getting  feed a power or ground wire in the older 18135 NYC power unit  , thank-you for the info! ..daniel

Every wire is accountable for I trace the grounds and wires only difference  was the three wires on the ****e connector shows on the schematic red in the center but mine shows yellow but still goes to the front/ side maker  light

Long shot but found this article:

A flickering light in a TMCC loco when in TMCC mode is usually indication of poor TMCC signal to the loco. This can be due to poor ground connections in the loco or a poor antenna connection/arrangement in the loco.

where does the antenna push in lead on the board end up going to  ? ... maybe I can check to see if it has continuity or?

alos when running in conventional mode  does the  antenna signal stop?

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UPDATE  AFTER MAKING SURE ALL GROUNDS ON CHASIS ETE WIRES   I ADDED A WIRE TO ACT AS A ANTENNA AND PRESTO

NO MORE FLICKER.. and it programed!

what I like to know is too much of a antenna  bad I notice adding seem  has less response? or for some reason maybe IM getting interference from other wires etc.. because the new Lionel board works but not responsive from forward to reverse still still has that time delay for some reaseon

It's pretty hard to have too much antenna, but it's possible.  Unless you have five feet of wire, I think you're safe.

any chance best possible way to put extra wire under the f3 shell ? both inside sides? or how about coiling  in and taping it in their? or metal strips instead of wire?

lst tiime you helped I tried to find a 3 dollar coffee card my girls laughed and said dad starbuks is $7.00  looks like you just might be getting a card in the mail helping me on this one I wanted fixed so bad.. thanks

I just take the wire and hot glue it to the top of the shell as a rule.  I normally use about 18" of wire for most installations.

from what i read its best to have the wire stick out of the plastic shell how about if I use the metal horns to attach  the wire  to   

maybe it might help alot    and give better response...? 

There's no difference in sticking the wire to the inside of the shell or the outside.  The shell has no effect on the RF signal.  Sticking it outside will change nothing.

Lionel has been very nice in sending me a replacement LCRU 2 the one they send WORKS  making the engine run fine  but the coupler and  reverse still have a slow response so....

I called Lionel showed the original version of the LCRU and they sent me  one to match!  and that one did not work at ALL..

So my question is do you think that these LCRU what I think are first generation boards are  obsolete and I should go to ERR  command board?  or do I have a interference problem with this (unit only)

the second replacement one they send with the 5 small capacitors works best for now..

As mention if I want to reverse  you have to  wait @5-10 seconds till it gets the signal.. same with coupler and only this TMCC  NYC century club  unit

Never heard of that.  What happens if you use AUX2 to turn the headlight off and on?  Does that respond right away?  How about the horn & bell, do they respond quickly?

 What happens if you use AUX2 to turn the headlight off and on? 

When I hit Aux 8-or 9 its hit or miss sometime it works  immediately and sometimes its a time delay of 3 -5 seconds

does not matter if its running or standing in idle, or if its in random areas on the track.. nor matter if I stand still or move around all the same

How about the horn & bell, do they respond quickly

the horn and bell are in the b unit which I did test and does work fast with no issues I find all my TMCC bell takes its time when the bell is asked to stop  though ..

Very odd, I think this is one I'd have to see to comment.  Since it's an LCRU2, there is no "swapping" the receiver, it's the whole board.  However, given the symptoms, that would be my first step presented with these symptoms.