Lionel Fast Track O-72 Switch Issue

I have found the Fastrack switches to be extremely reliable.  From the looks of your layout it appears you are powering the switches via track power.  Make sure your jumper is installed and screws tight.  Also, verify your jumpers are installed underneath the short extension track pieces.  Please share if the derailment occurs as the locomotive approaches the diverging switch or is it when it is converging.

Is it the one right at the bottom of the grade?

A turnout on any kind of an incline no matter how slight is asking for trouble.

I would try modifying your track plan to get that turnout further away from the grade so it is totally flat.

I have no grades on my layout but I still sighted down the top of the rails to check for dips and/or rises and eliminated them with track screw adjustments of shims where necessary.

I would also check to make sure that the tips of the switch points lay flat against the rails in both positions and are not sticking out so as to cause the engine to derail.

You should also be able to get down very close to the switch and watch very carefully as you advance the engine through the switch and look closely to see what is happening.

Alos, try running a car or two through the switch manually to see if it happens with them or just the engine.   

So no it’s not the one at the bottom of the grade that one actually works fine. The one that does it is in the back right corner area on the straight section. I have checked the wires they are all correct and tight. I have heard possibly the fast track O-72 switches are plagued with an issue where just they may be the case. I just am new to railroading again and i am not sure how much fiddling i want to do with a brand new switch i could return it and get an O-60 but i am wondering what models are plagued with theee type of troubles

https://ogrforum.com/...switch-derailing-fix

https://ogrforum.com/...ls-over-072-switches

is itlefthanded.i have the same problem 0-60 and 072.mr muffins has a repair fix.they came from the factory wired backwards

Yes it is a left hand switch , i saw that then there is the parts where people are grinding down some part of the rail or bending it to get it to work just not sure where and how to get that right if i had to do that

I’ll ask a second time.  Problem on diverging or converging?  If the problem is on converging then the anti-derailing feature may not be functioning.  There were some switches with factory wiring issues that did not properly anti-derail.  If problem is diverging then possible mechanical or eletromechanical problem.  I have seen tiny pieces of styrofoam from packaging hinder full from movement.  

problem with it diverging i am adding a real close up of the switch i also checked mr muffins wiring solution to the lionel switches and mine is actually wired right but if you look at this from the factory it appears the rails don’t exactly touch and to fix this would require some bending and i may just return the switch and get another unless all of them are like this then i amy need to go with O-36 or O-60 whichever one is not plagued with problems

This is not an uncommon issue with the Fastrack switches.  I've carefully bent the tips to allow reliable operation, for brand new switches, I'd return them.

@davehall83 posted:

Hello,

I seem to have stumbled upon a problem on my layout. I have the lionel 6-12048 O-72 fast track remote switch. I ran my new lion chief polar express and another train across it and both derailed about half way into the switch. The first 2 passes on the switch brand new out of the box no problems. After 2 passes every train derails no matter what or what direction the switch is set to. I checked the switch and it switches the frog no issues at all so i have no idea what the issue is, the track is smooth going across, it switches i just dont get it. I did find online after some searching there is a defect in these lionel 0-72 fast track switches that they do this. So what are my other options, i need some kinda switch, does this supposed defect affect their O-60 or O-36 switches as well for fast track? I have some older O-36 switches that i setup on the layout from a train show that were used that work without a flinch and no derailing so i dont get it at all.

Do you have a straight piece of track before the switch’s diverging end?  If not Theron lies the issue.  The Berkshires have an issue due to the design of their leading trucks.  They will not go through a divergence if their leading truck is not completely straight before the switch.  

Thanks for telling me that it’s an O-72 curve then it hits the switch so i will try to move the switch down after a straight section and see what happens. Didn’t know the berkshire’s had that problem would have never known that unless you said something thanks all! Will post an update once i rearrange things. I also have an older N&W # 611 i got at a train show it doesn’t seem to like fast track or what i have here because it sounds as if it’s dragging across the rails when moving , no other newer loco i have does that. Do you think some of these trains that are older may not like the fast track ? I do have gargraves track i am eventually going to install with gargraves switches. The fast track is just my temporary setup so i can run my trains for now until i figure out the whole layout

FWIW, I recently purchased 12 (twelve) 072 turnouts and don’t have any issues with derailing.  I haven’t heard of a widespread problem with the 072 turnouts other than the Fastrack switches in general can be hit or miss with electronic components.  Actually, I have 2 which work fine with the wired remote and the trains roll thru with no issues but the 2 problem units have a bad board and won’t go into program mode.  

I would exchange for another 072 seeing as you have one that works.

@Steims My switches are running off track power but I didn’t install a jumper. Are they in there standard and need to be removed if wiring a separate power source?  I removed the wired remotes and don’t recall seeing a jumper.  

@VJandP the jumper comes standard and is only removed if using Auxiliary power to switches.   The jumper is located directly across from wired remote terminals.

@davehall83 posted:

Thanks for telling me that it’s an O-72 curve then it hits the switch so i will try to move the switch down after a straight section and see what happens. Didn’t know the berkshire’s had that problem would have never known that unless you said something thanks all! Will post an update once i rearrange things. I also have an older N&W # 611 i got at a train show it doesn’t seem to like fast track or what i have here because it sounds as if it’s dragging across the rails when moving , no other newer loco i have does that. Do you think some of these trains that are older may not like the fast track ? I do have gargraves track i am eventually going to install with gargraves switches. The fast track is just my temporary setup so i can run my trains for now until i figure out the whole layout

You may want to re-think using those switches - Ross switches with your Gargraves track would be the way to go if you're going to eliminate the Fastrack.

Richie,

Any reason why ross over gargraves switches? I know ross is the ultimate switch to go for but am i going to have a bunch of problems with gargraves switches ? I can return the switches i have but i have to do it soon and it will cost me shipping and restock fees

I use Fastrack switches on my seasonal layout with few problems. In fact, the 0-72 size has been the most reliable. The only problem I have seen is that the end of the throw somtimes needs to be bent slightly towards the main rail.  The top edge to the throw can also be bent down in the direction of the main rail slighly to reduce the gap. There is a video on YouTube that shows how to make these adjustments. I would not send these back if this is the issue because it is a minor problem that is easily corrected. I have had other issues with derailments when the switches are too close together, especially with steam engines with straight wheel allignments. A short straight 4.5 or 5.0 inch section between the switches helps a lot. Hope that helps. I have 14 Fastrack switches working right now on my layout with no issues and ten of them are 0-72.

@davehall83 posted:

Richie,

Any reason why ross over gargraves switches? I know ross is the ultimate switch to go for but am i going to have a bunch of problems with gargraves switches ? I can return the switches i have but i have to do it soon and it will cost me shipping and restock fees

I don't know for sure if you will experience problems with Gargraves switches, but what I do know is that the odds of having issues with Ross switches are extremely remote.

Obviously, already having the Gragraves in your possession and having to pay for shipping and restock fees to return them as well as the additional cost of Ross switches are factors that you will have to weigh in deciding which way to go. In light of the problems you are experiencing with FT switches, I only suggested it to help insure that you don't go from the proverbial frying pan into the fire, but only you can decide if it's worth it.

Kinda' like asking if one should buy a used car or a new car - you weigh the odds and take your chances.

There is a current Forum thread on Gargraves switches you should read, as well as research other threads on Ross vs. Gargraves switches and make your decision. 

So i went with an O-48 switch and a straight section on my layout detailing fixed however now on my inner circle i have an O-36 remote switch that the polar express will not go through it actually try’s to climb the switch midway and derails. I have a wizard of oz lionel locomotive and it goes through there fine and i tried a box car goes through smooth. So the polar express like another mentioned on here something with those front wheel issues it jumps the switch. Any fixes for this one i can’t seem to get the track into a O-36 straight because of how tie made but on the other side of it on the outside loop it goes through just fine here is a closeup of the switch

well i am going to bite the bullet and get ross switches i have an opportunity to return the gargraves switches i have since they are unopened and unused. To have the best possible outcome here i will buy the ross switches. I even though of returning the gargraves track but i have seen most folks are going gargraves track and ross switches do appears there’s nothing wrong with going gargraves then ross switches. Now here lies the question for you all should i go with the dz1000 or dz2500 switches ? I plan to do the ipad type thing for lionel layout control system at some point which means less items i need to make it work with the dz1000 but i heard both good and bad on dz2500 switches maybe the newer ones are better now ?

Davehall83, looking at your photo, I would guess that the problem lies in the fact that you have a curve coming into the switch from the far end.  My experience has been that the locomotive needs a chance to straighten out before navigating the switch. The front wheels will try to follow the switch but the drive wheels are still in the curve and they overpower the engine off the track. I have had the same problem several times. good luck