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I was just doing some repairs to the e-unit on this engine. Well, the fingers look like they are probably are usable, the wiring is on it's last leg, one or two connections broke, and the one end of the plastic drum is half worn away. So, I think I am going to rewire it. Anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram for this engine?

 

Also, the black finish is flat satin black, right? I bought some from Olsen's a couple years ago when I replaced the cab, and it does not match the engine (which was never repainted, according to my Grandpa who got it new).

 

Also, The valve gear that connects to the body, how hard is it to take off a broken piece and replace it? I figure while I have it all apart might as well...

 

Thanks guys and have a Happy New Year!

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You have several options for wiring. You can buy new wired e unit fingers. These have modern, vinyl covered wiring, and if that bothers you, you can buy the fingers without wires. Or, if your e unit fingers are good, you can just rewire them. For my 2 cents, I'd say replace the fingers and the drum and be done once and for all for several years.

 

This does require spreading the e unit apart to replace the drum and contacts, and you have to be aware of the part orientation, especially how the e unit pawl will grab onto the drum.

 

Greenberg's postwar repair manual shows diagrams of motors with e units, as does the prewar repair guide. you may also be able to find it on Olsen's Library for any O gauge prewar engine having an e unit. It's all the same.

 

The eccentric on the side of the loco may be held on one of two ways. Some 265E's have kind of a keyed post riveted to the body. All you have to do is rotate the eccentric until it comes off. Others have the eccentric held on with a large headed rivet that has a shank. That, you'll have to remove the rivet, and replace it. Olsen sells the eccentric and the rivets for the sides of the body.

 

As for paint, I have used Rustoleum American Accents Canyon Black. Once dried, I rub the whole part down with talcum powder and then rinse. The talc trick softens the look and gives it a more natural patina than the Woods restoration paints.

Thanks to both of you. I didn't realize that it would be the same as postwar motors, but now that you mention it, it would be. I also see how the the rod connects to the body, also a dumb moment, since it just rotates off.

 

Thanks for the offer Keith, but I can do this, and right now I have the down time to do it (waiting on my credentials to apply for teaching jobs).

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