1950 scout engine wheel problem

Yep, 2 part  5 min epoxy , Don't  get any on the bearing though.  Make sure the 1/2 moon are in the same  position....  Ca might work as well but not as forgiving. Let  the epoxy  set up overnight even though it says 5 minute.  I think it will hold .  

Yes you can just epoxy it on, but don't get it on the bearing.  My go-to favorite is JB Weld, for a multitude of repairs.  Get the fast curing type (2 part mix), use a toothpick and smear some inside of the wheel, press the wheel back on (quarter the wheel to the rear wheel), and let it sit over night.  Should be good to go, in the morning.

I use hobby grade gap filling CA glue.

 

First I carefully clean away any grease,oil or dirt from the axle and the inside of the hole in the wheel.

Gerald,

I am sorry, I have no repair remedies for you, but you have a bit of a premier type of 'Scout' locomotive with the following features, sans Magne-Traction and Smoke.  

Here:http://www.postwarlionel.com/c...in/postwar?ITEM=1101

I have the 1110 'Scout' locomotive with the same wheel arrangement, smoke and Magne-Traction, but no ornamental bell, whistle and no headlamp.

I still have it and I still love it, especially that my maternal aunts ordered from Santa Claus four sets, one for each of us boys, of the family, for Christmas of 1950.

These are great little work horse locomotives.

Ralph

I also concur that epoxy is the way to go.  Try to clean the shaft of any oil, cleaning the hole in the wheel is more difficult, before you glue.  I have a Lionel engine that has an epoxied wheel and it has worked well for several years. 

Another solution is to order a new wheel.  The splined shaft can be hammered into the new wheel.  Postwar Lionel replacement wheels are available from several online Lionel parts dealers.

Dave,

I must have missed seeing this elsewhere, but I have just discovered this Lionel 1952 catalog, color cover photo.:

1952 lionel catalog

Very nice!!!!

Ralph

RJL,I didn't know there was a scout engine with those features mine just has a head light & you are right it just keeps right on going,thanks for the link about the scout engine i printed it out for my own information.

       Dave,i will try the epoxy first,i want to keep all the original parts as long as i can,the only thing that is not original is the headlight,but it is good to know that i can still get a replacement wheel,actually i have another scout engine same number that i bought on e-bay for $20.00 just for parts,but like i said before i want to keep all the original parts as long as possible. I have another question about parts,how can i get a wheel off of the other scout engine that i have if i needed to,do i need any special tool for that?

quote:

Try to clean the shaft of any oil, cleaning the hole in the wheel is more difficult, before you glue.

 

I use either a QTip or a pipe cleaner, folded over to make it thicker. Wet the QTip/pipe cleaner with pure mineral spirits, and swab out the hole. Wait for the hole to dry before gluing.

Gerald:

To remove the wheel from the donor engine, you need to use a wheel puller like the one in the attached photo.  I picked mine up at a TCA meet several years ago and paid something like $25 to $30 for it.

Curt

Gerald,

You are welcome, good luck and enjoy your repaired locomotive.

If, at all possible and you can cement the wheel back on and the other locomotive is in decent, or good shape, then have both babies running and just change the cab number from '1101,' to '1104,' if possible.  And try to purchase a tender for '1104,' if need be.

Ralph

Ralph,The other loco is in good shape that is a good suggestion about changing the number,this way there is no chance that the two loco's could ever get mixed up,although i can tell the difference if my son takes over in the future he would not know the difference.

 

            Curt,Are there any other sources where i could get a wheel puller if i should need one?   Thanks,   Gerald

Gerald:

I'd imagine some of the parts suppliers who advertise in OGR might either sell wheel pullers themselves or be able to direct you to someone who does.

The photo I posted above shows the phone number for the gentleman I purchased mine from so you may want to start with him should you decide to buy one.

Curt

The following is just my opinion:

 

Gerald, the originall poster would be better off using an adhesive to remount his original wheel if it does not wobble on the axle.

If he uses a used wheel, the splines cut into the wheel's hole will not be in the same exact location as on the original wheel, so the wheel will be slightly out of quarter.
If he uses a new wheel, then he is going to need a press or something similar to get the wheel anywhere near being square and quartered.

 

If Gerald wants to try the wheel from his junker, he should be able to remove it using a pin punch with a slightly smaller diameter than the axle. I do not normally recommend this because doing so often damages the axle bearing or pushes it too far into the frame. But since it is a junk frame, the axle bearing may not be important (if it is, don't use a pin punch).

Another alternative is to find someone with the proper tools who is willing to do the work.

 

There are a few wheel pullers on EBay right now.

Several of the Lionel parts dealers sell new rivet press outfits.
Cups are sold seperately. There usually is a group of cups that are sold as a set. I do not think they will do an 1101 wheel. I am not certain whether any of the tool guys make one that will fit.  Unless you are going to do a lot of repairs, getting into this stuff is expensive.

Again, I suggest trying an adhesive on the original wheel first.

C.W.Burfle, You make a good point,i just finished putting the wheel on with the 2 part epoxy,i will leave it overnight & see how it is tomorrow & yes it could get expensive to buy all these different tools,especially if you don't do a lot of repairs,which i do not do,because i don't have the knowledge to do a lot of the repairs,so for now i will pass on buying the wheel puller. My thanks to all who responded.

I've used regular super glue to hold loos wheels on, with no problem pulling them if needed. I saw an article in one of the mags years ago on making my own puller. go to the auto parts store,(automotive battery terminal puller) Wally World, etc, should be under $10. a little time with a bench grinder (or file) and works like a charm.

 

Dave,I don't understand,which part did you have to grind down?,just curious .

you need to take off this part, and grind down the ends of the clamp so it will fit behind the wheel flange. I don't think it would work on say a Marx wheel that has the gear to the end of the flanges, but has worked fine on my Lionels.

 

 

a little trial and error on how much to grind off.

Dave,now i understand what i would have to do if i ever decide to get one.   Thanks.

Frank Timko sells a great puller.  Lionel uses it in customer service.